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Saturday, July 6, 2013
14 K at last! But we had to fight our way up here, it didn't come easy.
Back down at 11,000 ft in the early hours of the day, it looked as though we might get decent weather. At least, if one was looking up at the West Buttress, there was good visibility and not much sign of wind, if one turned and looked West, however, there was still a massive flow of cloud, as there had been all week, often overflowing and engulfing camp.
We ate breakfast and packed, it seemed especially difficult to get going after having become so deeply dug in for the best part of a week, but we managed. Naturally, as we roped up and and got ready to walk, the clouds swept in and the wind came up. We came full on into strong, steady winds as we topped motorcycle hill and it seemed we found even stronger winds at the crest of squirrel hill. All of this was while inside a big white freezing cloud, so we were getting rimed up and frosty as we leaned straight into the storm to climb higher. On the polo field, we still had wind but we were getting occasional sun breaks. Windy Corner lived up to its name today. Getting past it was the key battle of the day, but we knew if we could pass the corner we could leave the wind and cloud behind. Sure enough, as we reached our cache from yesterday, we'd found a calm and sunny glacier. It took another ninety minutes to get into "Genet Basin" which we reached at 3:30 PM. We were happy to rejoin the teams we'd shared 11 camp with. There were plenty of empty camp sites with good walls, so building our nest at 14,200 ft was made slightly easier. The team was a little weary after pushing through such harsh conditions, but all were excited to be back in the game, to have new and awesome views and to have beat the forecasted "next storm". Yes, that is right, we are in for another one. The western sky was full of wind sculpted wave clouds, as if a fleet of flying saucers were attacking Mount Foraker. By the time we finished dinner, Denali was cloud capped as well and the snow was starting to fall at 14,200.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Sunday, June 23rd, 2013
We woke up with a couple of inches of snow on the tents this morning. No storms or winds, just the friendly June kind of Denali snow.
We had a very pleasant rest day. We checked in with the camp gossip and watched a few teams head up the fixed line towards 17k. Our plan is to head up to 17,000 ft and make a camp. We have really been doing a great job of sport eating and no one has had any problems with this altitude. We are all very excited because we do not drag any sleds up past this camp.
RMI Summit Team 6
P.S. Lance wants Penny to know that he is keeping up with his dental hygiene. (But the rest of him has not washed in ten days!
Also, Uchal says Happy 2nd Birthday Lulu!
On The Map
Hello Gregory Grasshopper! We all had a fun time in Austin, swimming in the Pedernales, eating, and catching up. We are thinking of you and hope all continues to go well. Midge and Pete say hi.
Love you,
Mum and Bubs
Posted by: Anne Sullivan on 6/24/2013 at 8:05 pm
Great photos and updates! Thank you, it really helps us at home feel more involved, and informed. Great progress and no more sleds. Yea! Glad to hear all are doing well and managing to have a bit of fun too. Message to Steve, love you and missing you, hope you are having a wonderful time.remember, take lots of pictures!
Posted by: Tania K on 6/24/2013 at 1:33 am
Woke up today to blue skies and a bunch of climbers eager to get the adventure started. We had a quick breakfast in the hotel cafe and then the team met up with Jaime, one of our local guides, before we set out in taxis for a ride up the teleferiqo (gondola) to a perch high above the city. The skies were clear, affording us an awesome view of Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and the Illinizas. After taking in our surroundings we started our training hike that eventually took us up to the summit of Rucu Pichincha at nearly 15,500'. The team felt great and was moving incredibly well considering that most of us had come from very close to sea level in the U.S. just a couple days prior. Unfortunately, we were socked in the clouds on the summit but shortly after beginning our descent we emerged from a higher cloud layer and again had the opportunity to enjoy sweeping views of the mountains and the sprawl of Quito.
We hopped in a colectivo van for a ride back to the hotel and most of us took a quick siesta before heading out on the town for another team dinner, this time at La Boca del Lobo. We even enjoyed some pretty awesome views of the urban wildlife on our walk back from the restaurant. The crew hit the sack pretty early tonight tired from today but also in preparation for another early start tomorrow as we head out of Quito and begin our journey towards our first big objective, Cayambe.
Will check in again tomorrow,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, David Price
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb July 4 - 7 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 7 AM today. RMI Guide Eric Frank reported a beautiful day with clear and sunny skies above 8,000'.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Yeah booooooiiiiiiiii! Get it!
Posted by: Nicole Hertel on 7/7/2019 at 10:51 am
I’m so proud of you guys! Way to go!!
Posted by: Melinda Lohre on 7/7/2019 at 8:35 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,000'
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June 28, 2014 - 10:07 pm PT
So good to be on Denali. So good to be on the move again. With our late flight onto the mountain yesterday evening, there wasn't so much time to be ready for the late season tradition of walking out of basecamp at 4 AM this morning. We built our camp and put priority on getting good rest instead. Our thinking was that with so much snow (30 inches from the last storm) that we might get by just fine without the early start. We'd plainly seen the lower Kahiltna Glacier during our flight and it certainly didn't look like crevasse bridges were going to be a problem. So we got up at a civilized 7:30 AM and did our organizational work and set out for a daytime Denali departure. As we'd allowed ourselves to hope, crevasses were no problem. In fact the glacier was in better condition than it had been for late season in decades. We made three hour-long pulls with some fifteen-minute restbreaks in between. But in the end we decided not to push on to our normal first day camp goal of 8,000 feet. Despite our snowshoes, the walk was getting strenuous due to the great amount of unconsolidated new snow softening with the heat of the day. We camped at 7,000 ft where the East Fork meets the main glacier and we'll happily begin earlier tomorrow to get ideal surface conditions. Nice to see a few of the other late season guides on the move today as well, a bit of a reunion. Especially nice to hear from Adam Knoff at 11K on the radio and Billy Nugent on top.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello McKinley-Team!
I hope the weather stays well and that all of you are in a good mood.
Wish you all the best and special greetings to Hans!!!
Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/30/2014 at 10:48 am
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Pablo Puruncajas reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams are descending to Camp Muir to rest and refuel before making their way to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford later today.
I am awestruck!!! You two rock! Stay safe!
Posted by: Debbie Reese on 6/9/2014 at 6:24 am
Goes? If so, congrats on reaching the summit. Standing by for photos and stories.
Posted by: Chris Krivonyak on 6/2/2014 at 9:33 pm
It's winter!!! Maybe I'm a little too excited but we made it to Camp Muir and the entire team is doing great. We endured the wind, rain and snow allowing everyone to learn the number one expedition skill...how to take care of ourselves in foul weather. We are busy sipping hot chocolate and there's a mug with my name on it!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
hope all is well hope my friend sees there wish her luck there Bri
Posted by: jerry stinnett on 5/31/2013 at 8:18 pm
Sending our hugs, kisses, and stay safe, warm wishes!
... Love JB, Jo Jo Tater Tot, Mother of Pearl and Oly Girl. Xoxoxo
Posted by: Taylor girls on 5/28/2013 at 8:53 pm
As we went to bed last night at Karanga Camp we were rewarded with a clear skies and a beautiful sunset. We left the Karanga Camp this morning en route for our high camp on Kilimanjaro, Barafu located at 15,000'.
The infamous Kili Natural Arch showed itself on our climb. The arch is ;ocated on the ridge between the Breach Wall and the Great Baranco I would guess it stands a few hundred feet tall with a large opening. It may be an expedition in it's self but is a beautiful sight from a far. As we climbed out of camp this morning the skies were clear above for views of the Heim,Kerstin and the Deken glaciers. As we climbed higher we noticed the lack of vegetation and commented about the the moon scape effect.
The team made good time to Barafu Camp and just as we pulled in it began to sleet/ rain. Lucky for us the tents were set up and we headed for the shelter of our personal and dining tents. The rain has stopped and the skies have cleared a bit. There are still a few clouds both above and below us.
Our plan for this evening is an early dinner followed by a short rest and hopefully some sleep before we are aroused at midnight for our summit attempt. Summit night is upon us!
The team is in good shape and high spirits, just a bit of good weather and some luck should get us to the Roof of Africa.
We will check in again soon!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Hello, this is Linden calling, today is April 6th. It was a beautiful morning at Base Camp and after breakfast we started our descent through the Khumbu Glacier back into the morraine and on to Gorak Shep. From there we climbed a little peak called Kala Patar and enjoyed fantastic views of Everest and the Khumbu Glacier. After sitting up there for a while taking in the scenery we began the descent to Gorak Shepa and continued back down the valley to Lobuche. There we met up with the RMI Everest Climbing Team and shared a cup of tea. We continued on to Pheriche where we will spend the night.
Today was a long day and we traveled quite a distance through glaciers and moraine, climbing up to 18,500' and back down to 17,000'. We are all excited to be heading toward Island Peak and we are looking forward to reaching base camp in a few days.
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Humbleness is the key ingredient for climbing mountains. To embody the notion that you, the climber, are such a small part of the dynamic equation needed to safely climb an incredible peak is as challenging as the actual climbing. Our team was faced with such a challenge once we reached our high camp on El Pico de Orizaba. Weather was not cooperating with our plans to attempt the summit as wind, precipitation, and low visibility engulfed the mountain well into the morning. Many a time, emergency situations that arise in the mountains are rarely the product of just one issue, rather many tiny poor decisions that escalate to something worse. We discussed this over as a group and agreed that if we had left in poor visibility, precipitation, tough route finding, and difficult travel with the fresh snow we were not setting ourselves up for success and safety.
The weather slowly eased it's temper as the sun began to rise revealing a beautiful, snow-covered landscape reaching down to nearly 12,500'. This unusual winter storm has left a dry, dessert-like alpine environment encased in the cold grasp of winter. A cloud cap swarmed the upper reaches of the Jamapa Glacier as our team headed out for a hike in hopes of reaching the glacier. Watching the wind whip through the mountain up high, reminded us how unforgiving mountaineering can be. The snow became deeper and deeper as we approached the last section of the rocky labyrinth just below the glacier. At the foot of the glacier, around 16,500 ft our team was knee deep in snow, gazing at the summit in awe. From this point the summit was beckoning us to climb, what looked like only a stone's throw away. This is when one must face the reality in this case of what looks so close is easily 3 hours away and with deep snow, more like 4 hours. Too long, too exhausting, too dangerous at this point to go on. Our team, satisfied with the journey and experience of climbing in Mexico, returned to the Reyes' lodge for some relaxation prior to our departure home.
As we sat at our gates waiting for our respective flights, we all began to dream, to wonder of the next climb. For some us, a return trip is on the bill. For others, a future mountaineering expedition is right around the corner. For all, a peace knowing we came home safe, friends, and hungry for more. Thank you to Tom, Casey, Ryan, Jayson, Mazzie, Seamus, Collin, and Marty for making this an amazing climbing program for RMI!
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Yea, ravens at 13,000 ft?!? Those must be some bad ass ravens
Posted by: Fred on 7/7/2013 at 5:54 pm
Erik Nelson’s uncle and aunt here, following the journey eagerly. Proud, Praying, Positive! The Mariners’ Cove crabbing operation has been fun and successful. Hoping the same for your adventure, Erik and team.
Posted by: Jay and Carol Sigafoos on 7/7/2013 at 2:31 pm
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