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RMI Team Finishing Days on Pico de Orizaba

Humbleness is the key ingredient for climbing mountains. To embody the notion that you, the climber, are such a small part of the dynamic equation needed to safely climb an incredible peak is as challenging as the actual climbing. Our team was faced with such a challenge once we reached our high camp on El Pico de Orizaba. Weather was not cooperating with our plans to attempt the summit as wind, precipitation, and low visibility engulfed the mountain well into the morning. Many a time, emergency situations that arise in the mountains are rarely the product of just one issue, rather many tiny poor decisions that escalate to something worse. We discussed this over as a group and agreed that if we had left in poor visibility, precipitation, tough route finding, and difficult travel with the fresh snow we were not setting ourselves up for success and safety. The weather slowly eased it's temper as the sun began to rise revealing a beautiful, snow-covered landscape reaching down to nearly 12,500'. This unusual winter storm has left a dry, dessert-like alpine environment encased in the cold grasp of winter. A cloud cap swarmed the upper reaches of the Jamapa Glacier as our team headed out for a hike in hopes of reaching the glacier. Watching the wind whip through the mountain up high, reminded us how unforgiving mountaineering can be. The snow became deeper and deeper as we approached the last section of the rocky labyrinth just below the glacier. At the foot of the glacier, around 16,500 ft our team was knee deep in snow, gazing at the summit in awe. From this point the summit was beckoning us to climb, what looked like only a stone's throw away. This is when one must face the reality in this case of what looks so close is easily 3 hours away and with deep snow, more like 4 hours. Too long, too exhausting, too dangerous at this point to go on. Our team, satisfied with the journey and experience of climbing in Mexico, returned to the Reyes' lodge for some relaxation prior to our departure home. As we sat at our gates waiting for our respective flights, we all began to dream, to wonder of the next climb. For some us, a return trip is on the bill. For others, a future mountaineering expedition is right around the corner. For all, a peace knowing we came home safe, friends, and hungry for more. Thank you to Tom, Casey, Ryan, Jayson, Mazzie, Seamus, Collin, and Marty for making this an amazing climbing program for RMI!
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Vinson Massif Expedition: Team Arrives in Punta Arenas, Chile

Twenty four hours of flying high and fast brought our team of 12 to the end of the conventional planet.  We’re now assembled in Punta Arenas, Chile... ready to go the final leg of our journey to the unconventional planet.  Things look good for firing up the Gulfstream tomorrow morning to jump on down to Union Glacier in Antarctica.  With luck, we’ll then make the hop out to Vinson Basecamp in ski-equipped Twin Otters. 
 
We landed in Punta near mid-day today and got settled at the venerable old Cabo De Hornos hotel on the town’s central plaza.  We walked the streets for a bit, finding lunch and making our way to the headquarters of Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions for a briefing.  ALE is our partner and outfitter for the expedition and they got us up to speed on environmental safeguarding procedures and current weather predictions.  We then went back to exploring town.  There was the obligatory stop for pisco sours in the Shackleton Bar of one of the old, stately hotels on the plaza.  Then we found the perfect grill -a Parrilla-for a hearty patagonian dinner.   Finally, we watched the sunset light up clouds over Magellan’s Strait as we walked home.  Early start tomorrow.  Perhaps we’ll finish the day on Mount Vinson. 

Best regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Keep it safe up down there! Wings level and blue sky-up…...so look up at that view. Slick, we will have a few Old Fashions wait’in for ya at the Valley. Capture those memories! MORE PIC’s

Posted by: Michael on 12/30/2019 at 6:06 pm

Slay the beast! Looking forward to all the stories and pics. Best of luck, guys!

Posted by: Kram on 12/30/2019 at 11:30 am


Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Down from 17,200’

June 5, 2014 - 11:00 pm PT We broke camp early today given our usual plan for getting down towards Basecamp and hopefully off the mountain in another day or so, but today not all went to plan. Some equipment malfunctions and mostly general fatigue has us camped again at 14,200', getting recharged for our walk back to the airstrip and closer to a burger, beer, and you. The forecast looks good for walking down the Kahiltna so we're all hopeful. Hope to see you all soon. RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

On The Map

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So excited that mission Denali is almost completed. Great Team and great Guides!!! Hope tonight will be your last night in the snow. Love to Daniel and the entire Team.

Mom & Rob

Posted by: Lena Akerman on 6/6/2014 at 9:57 pm

Sitting between the dogs, drinking a martini while Blair cooks. We are very excited for you and the group! Take care and be safe.
Debbie and Blair

Posted by: Debbie Okita on 6/6/2014 at 4:01 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Enjoy Rest Day on the Mountain

Today was our rest day, and that's exactly what we did! We started the day off with a brief review of how to use our ice axes and crampons just a few feet from our camp at 12,000' on Mt. Elbrus (there's plenty of snow very near). And quickly transitioned into another delicious breakfast with plenty of coffee. Once our bellies were full everyone returned to our bunk space and relaxed till lunch. It is vacation after all! We had lunch and then discussed tomorrows climbing plan so that we could do a little prep work before settling in tonight. If all goes well our plan is to have breakfast at 1am then catch a snow cat ride up to about 15,000ft and begin our climb from where we left off yesterday. I'm expecting the climb to take about 6-8 hours up and about 3-4 ours back down. So, if all goes according to plan we should be on top around 9 a.m. our time! Everyone is excited for tomorrow. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

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Congratulations to the whole team.  What a wonderful view from the top and a great achievement.  You all look happy and healthy.  And best of all you have arrived safely at the lodge.  All our love to Jennifer and the whole team.  Thanks for the safe journey.  Love Mama Z

Posted by: patricia Blitz on 7/13/2013 at 2:06 pm

Larry,

Well done, once again!

Howard

Posted by: Howard Norman on 7/13/2013 at 10:58 am


Ecuador:  Cotopaxi Summit!

Mike called at 6:10 a.m. PT from the summit of Cotopaxi. The entire team reached the summit at 9 o'clock local time. It was a beautiful day with not a breath of wind. Everyone was doing great. They were planning to descend shortly and will provide a written dispatch later today. Congratulations to the RMI Cotopaxi Team!
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Vinson: Team returns to Basecamp

Back to Base The great climber and author Greg Child once wrote: "Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the top is the answer to the question of why we climb." Climbing, and the reason we do it, is an elusive thing. There is no straightforward, definitive answer, and I've struggled with it since I began climbing in 1986. I guess to some extent it's relative to each person. For some, it may be the overall challenge. Others are motivated perhaps by a specific summit or group thereof. To each his or her own. For me, as I labored under a heavy pack today, dragging a laden sled behind me, the question arose as it often does: Why am I doing this? Why am I thousands of miles from my children, my wife, my home and my friends, struggling in tough conditions with aching feet and a sunburned nose? Why? It was as if the mountain heard my query. As I moved, a gentle breeze brought a layer of Antarctic ice fog up the glacial valley. The sun above was muted, and a giant, iridescent sun-dog formed above me. The frigid snow crunched beneath my feet, and massive walls of rock, snow, and ice rose in every direction. It was absolutely silent, and yet deafening in its majesty. Yes, this is why I climb. These moments of solitude that are wholly grounding, humbling, and innately inspiring. They rarely come to me on top of a mountain, and are never predictable. But, they always come, they always inspire, and they never cease to make all the pain, cold, suffering, and challenge worth it. I now sit in my tent at Vinson Basecamp, the sun peeking through a thick fog above. The team is all happy and fulfilled, laughter and conversation filtering around. It's been a great handful of days on Mount Vinson. Tomorrow, or the next day, Ed, Cindy, David, and Ben will fly off on a Twin Otter, and the rest of us - Peter Seth, Caroline, Kent, and I - will stay on to do some skiing and climbing. More adventures await. -Jake Norton


Peter Whittaker calls from Basecamp

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Torres Del Paine: King and Team Complete the O Circuit

We had hoped that the clouds would lift if we woke up early and headed for the Torres. A little rain last night and another warm morning had us walking by 4:30 am. We gained a 1500’ and walked into the clouds just before getting to the Chileno Refugio about halfway through. We waited at the Refugio to watch the clouds and see if they had any movement in them. There was no wind present to encourage the clouds to lift so with the rain increasing we made the difficult decision to head back to Central. The terrain above Chileno is rocky and filled with roots in steeper terrain. Avoiding injury in this terrain when wet and with the clouds covering the Torres seemed like the right call. 

It has been a great trek down here, lots of laughs and scenic views with a fun group. We head back Puerto Natales this morning for flights tomorrow.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King & Team

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Great job Mike!  Bummer that you didn’t make it to to the towers, but I’m sure there was plenty of great scenery along the rest of the trek to make up for it.  I hope the group had as much fun as we did last year!

Posted by: Mark Nelson on 2/15/2024 at 3:32 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Make the Move to 14,000ft Camp

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 11:03 pm PT

Another big day in the books. After waking up to snow lightly falling at our 11,000ft camp, we had a quick breakfast and began breaking down camp. Around 10:30AM we finally began our way up Motorcycle Hill. At the top of Squirrel Hill we were met by some brutal winds and blowing snow. We worked across the Polo field, adding layers to combat the wind and blowing snow and worked our way through Windy Corner. After Windy Corner, luckily the winds died down and we were able to roll into 14,000' Camp in slightly better conditions. We joined the other RMI teams, and built our camp before making a rewarding dinner of ramen. Weather looks a bit moody tomorrow, good thing we've got a rest day on the docket.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

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Eric…Checking in with dad and Jill and cheering you on. Looks and sounds amazing!

Posted by: Addie Lyden on 5/27/2023 at 11:30 pm

Eric…Checking in with dad and Jill and cheering you on. Looks and sounds amazing! From Portland, Oregon

Posted by: Addie Lyden on 5/27/2023 at 11:29 pm


Aconcagua: Liken & Team Rest Day at Camp 1

Today, after two days of hard work and accomplishment, the team rested at Camp 1 on Aconcagua.  All that was on our minds was quesadillas, hot drinks, and naps.  Our bodies need to recover and make a few more red blood cells before we can be strong higher.  Tomorrow we will try and move camp to 18000 feet, but with a little snow in the forecast we will just have to wait and see. RMI Guide Ben Liken

On The Map

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker & Team Reach Namche Bazaar

The team had a very nice rest after our last night in Kathmandu. The city was a hoot, but back here in the high country is tough to beat. All business today. After a nice breakfast of French toast, guess we should call it Nepali toast, we started ascending to Namche Bazaar. A little overcast made for pleasant travel. We are now officially in Sagamartha National Park, which encompasses Mount Everest. We climbed more than 2,000 feet in great style and are now resting comfortably at a tea house in Namche Bazaar. Located at over 11,000 feet makes for a planned extra day here for rest and adjusting to these altitudes. So important to not ascend too quickly. The A team is consuming a lot of great food, but that is a good thing. Remember you can't run a bulldozer on a pint of diesel! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Nancy , I am so proud of you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!What an experience.  Jackie and I are here looking at the photos of your trek…...WOW!

Posted by: mimi on 4/3/2014 at 8:58 am

Hi Liz and all your spirited team members!
So proud of you guys and wishing you all the best as you continue on a trip of a lifetime!  So proud of you all!!!  Very inspirational to see you guys pushing it to your limit.
Sending Love and light,
Karin

Posted by: Karin Hathaway on 3/25/2014 at 1:03 pm

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