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Mt. Rainier: September 25th Update

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

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The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Casey Grom checked in from Camp Muir this morning. Due to high winds, blowing snow and poor visibility the climbers were unable to leave Camp Muir this morning to make their summit attempt. The telemetry at Camp Muir and the guides state that wind speeds were consistently 70 - 80 mph with a high of 102 mph during the 1 am hour. The teams are safe and warm in the hut enjoying breakfast and hot drinks at 10,000'. They will be starting their descent from Camp Muir at 9 a.m. PT.
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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Foiled by the Weather Again

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 9,300'

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The weather came around today, but not quite in time for us to make good use of it.  The skies had cleared of cloud but at noon there was still wind whipping snow off the high ridges and peaks.  We didn’t want to chance having to battle such a wind for the final hours into high camp and for the time needed to build that camp.  So we got ready, but we waited for improvement.  The winds did diminish but not convincingly enough for us to pull the trigger.  The teams around us did go for it and seem to have done just fine, although now, at 9:45 PM there is still wind visible in the high camp area.  We’re going to put our efforts into these next two days, Saturday and Sunday, for which the forecast is fine.  We have the place to ourselves… not entirely by design, but the quiet is nice.

We’ll set alarms tonight for 4:44 AM… not for an alpine start to the climbing -which would be quite cold- but to catch the solar eclipse.  At the time of totality, Mt Vinson will be squarely between us and a view of the sun, but perhaps we’ll see stars -a rarity in an Antarctic summer (like never).

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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RMI Guide Ben Liken Recounts AMGA Rock Instructor Course in Red Rocks

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Categories: Guide News Guide Grant

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This past November I and several other RMI guides had the opportunity to further hone our guiding skills by participating in the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Rock Instructor Course (RIC). I decided that after five years in the industry it would be enlightening to gain a perspective into this organization and put myself in the position of a student. The RIC is designed to create a foundation for guides looking to pursue a certification in the rock or alpine realm and is a prerequisite for many other AMGA courses. The program was set up as a contract course by RMI and was partially funded by the Eddie Bauer/First Ascent guide grant which kept the tuition costs low and excitement high. The course took place in the world renowned climbing area of Red Rocks; just outside of the world renowned capital of partying and gambling, Las Vegas, NV. Red Rocks is formed out of beautiful Aztec sandstone that was left behind by sand dunes 180 million years ago in an environment much like today’s Sahara Desert. With relatively short but, often complex, approaches and descents to long classic routes this is the ideal place to learn and play. The available climbing ranges from short sport climbs to 2500’ big wall routes, however, this course focused on guiding in class 4 terrain and traditionally protected routes to the 5.9 level. Most of us arrived at least a few days early to prepare for the course and get used to the rock; climbing Washington state granite, Bozeman ice, or glaciers on Mount Rainier doesn’t always prepare you for long lines on soft sandstone. I arrived one week early and was thoroughly psyched to leave the soggy sight of the Puget Sound for a sun soaked desert. I quickly found myself back in the rock climbing culture at the local BLM campground, with campfires and some mellow acoustics at night as well as the blow torch sound of a propane stove firing in the morning. It was early to bed and early to rise for the next few weeks to maximize the limited winter light. The sun rose at 6:30 am but left us by 4:15 pm. After 6 great days of climbing and several months of preparation, I was ready to start the course. It was a crisp Sunday morning and we were all up extra early to make sure our gear was in order and looking good. We had received a rather detailed itinerary via email and a few phone calls before the course but still were not sure exactly what to expect at the Red Springs picnic area that morning. For most of us this was our first experience with the AMGA and none of us had taken a “guide track” program before. I had heard that it was going to be serious and to go in prepared, which led me to have questions like “what will these instructors be like? And expect of us?” “Does my hair look okay?” ”How much am I really going to learn?” Upon arrival it was the classic first time meet up. Overall pretty quiet with a few light conversations, introductions, and of course a lot of sipping coffee. At 8 o’clock sharp we began and the mood eased exponentially over the day; by 2pm there were dirty jokes being thrown around. The three instructors were not out to judge or be hardcore; they were clearly there to mentor because they love guiding. The first part of the RIC was used to make sure we were all on the same page with the basics and begin to learn a few more advanced skills we would need later in the week. By the end of the second day it was becoming clear that some foul weather was in store, so we decided to get on the rock and start tugging as soon as possible. Over the next two and a half days we split into teams of four and got in well over 1000 vertical feet of climbing on a few classic routes. Our management of three ropes and four people on a hanging belay quickly went from obnoxiously poor to…….well…..not half bad. The stoke was high, and we were all excited to be learning from and climbing with some of the best guides in the business. As I was two pitches up on the four pitch “Big Bad Wolf”, I looked over my shoulder and saw huge bands of rain pummeling Las Vegas in the valley below. We made the hasty call to link the last two pitches and bring a few ropes at a time to finish the climb before the rain hit us. As the last climber was cresting the top I felt the first drop hit my forehead. We continued with a crash course in short roping off the backside. As the dust turned to mud before my eyes I couldn’t have known that the climbing portion of the course would be over. We were in the desert, right? Climbers in Red Rocks during the course (Ben Liken). Over the next three days we practiced and perfected rescue and rope skills as the rain fell nonstop all around the pavilion we were under. It was fun to focus purely on the timed drills and creating one handed hitches as they were called out. Looking out we could see the rock getting wetter than it had been in months. The sandstone in Red Rocks is porous and thus absorbs water like a sponge. Even in the warmest months the rock needs 24-48 hours to dry after a soaking rain and we had a lot of soaking rain with cool temps and low sun. The issue with climbing on the damp rock was not going to be its slipperiness but rather the danger of holds breaking and a leader falling onto protection in that same type of rock that just broke. As the sun rose for the last three days of the course we had to turn down perfect climbing weather because of poor route conditions. I sympathized with the climbers I work with on Mount Rainier: they come from across the country after months of training, time, and money spent, only to be shut down by avalanche hazard or icy conditions on a beautiful, sunny day. All was not lost however; we were able to learn and practice new skills in the horizontal plane, on very sunny aspects, and in steep off trail terrain. We agreed that we learned just as much if not more in this manner than we would have high on the rock. Horizontal Rappel Practice (Ben Liken). Ben's harness rigged and ready to rappel (Ben Liken). This was my first AMGA experience and it could not have been a better one. It solidified many skills that I can put to use in my current guiding and climbing. It was a great opportunity to develop myself in my profession and has opened the door for more courses and certifications. These courses and certifications are not required for guiding in the United States and many great guides are fully qualified through experience. This program and others offered by the AMGA however, get guides on the same page and forces us to be the best we can be, whether it be on Red Rocks sandstone, Mount Rainier Glaciers, or a remote peak in the Andes. Thanks to RMI, Eddie Bauer/First Ascent guide grant, and all the guides on the course for making this possible. Climb On!
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Visit & Discover Morocco

Posted by: brahim ait on 9/15/2017 at 3:20 am

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RMI Guides Paul Edgren & Billy Nugent Reach 100 Summits of Mt. Rainier!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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It has been a monumentous week for RMI Guides Paul Edgren and Billy Nugent. Paul reached the Mt. Rainier summit for the 100th time on September 11th and Billy on September 15th! Congratulations Paul & Billy!
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Joe Horiskey Recounts his First Mt. Rainier Summit of 46 Years Ago

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Categories: Guide News

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46 years ago, August 24, 1967, I began my first summit climb of Mt. Rainier. I was a paying customer. The cost was $25, which included a One-Day Climbing School. Nevertheless, as many have, I contacted the Guide Service (it wasn’t RMI yet) and pleaded my case to avoid the training and lessen the price. I pointed out I had backpacked earlier in the summer and encountered snow, which I successfully negotiated. Alas, the manager informed me I needed the Climbing School, but proposed I carry a load of food to Camp Muir to work out the cost. Terrific! John Anderson drew a rudimentary map of the ‘route’ to Muir one Saturday morning at Paradise in early July and my only question was “how many round trips?” (I was totally serious). His deadpan reply was that one ought to do it. My trip to Muir is another story for another time. I managed to deliver the supplies and participated in Climbing School the following day. The evening of August 23, 1967, some neighbors from Lakewood dropped me off at Paradise. My folks had provided money for a hot dog at the snack bar, but a room in the Inn was out of the question. Not a problem, so I headed to the Inn to kill the evening before finding a suitable campsite. Employee Talent Shows were a nightly occurrence at Paradise Inn in the good old days. The hotel management hired people oftentimes based primarily on musical or other talent. At the conclusion of the show a juke box was cranked up, and employees and guests alike hit the dance floor for a couple of hours. I was content to watch. At 10:00PM I donned my waiting pack (a wooden frame Trapper Nelson) and walked up the Skyline Trail a short distance above Paradise Inn. There I settled in beneath a cluster of sub-alpine fir and spent the night. Dawn on Saturday, August 24th, promised a perfect day for the trek to Camp Muir. Guide Service headquarters was located in the basement of the Visitor Center (the flying saucer) and there I met the other clients and our two guides, Tony Andersen and John Rutter. There were five clients, including myself. I can’t remember details about the trip to Muir, other than I positioned myself in line directly behind the ‘cabin girl’ headed up to cook for the guides. There was no client Bunkhouse, instead the guides on each trip would pitch and strike White Stag car-camping tents (the guides headquartered in the tiny, rock Cook Shack). Dinner was provided as part of the fee: beef stew & mashed potatoes (from #10 cans), as well as breakfast when we awoke to climb (#10 can peaches). Even a sleeping bag was supplied (I had no concern of when it may have been cleaned last). Summit day took 12 hours round trip: nine hours up and three hours down. There were three ladders to cross on the Ingraham Glacier. We left Muir at midnight and about half-way across the Cowlitz Glacier, I realized I’d left my gloves in camp. No big deal; I would tough it out. On a side note, it goes without saying we weren’t wearing helmets, beacons, harnesses or headlamp (we carried flashlights), or even gaiters. I wore wool army pants, my ‘parka’ was a Navy pea coat (heavy wool), and we were tied directly into the 150’ goldline rope with a bowline on a coil or bowline on a bight. Above the first rest break, we negotiated the ladders and traversed north onto Disappointment Cleaver. My hands were pretty damn cold (the guides hadn’t noticed my predicament) as we ascended the spine of the Cleaver. On top of DC we took our second rest break and lo and behold, one person decided to call it quits. Before resuming the ascent I screwed up my courage and asked the person staying behind if I could by any chance borrow his gloves… of course I could! High on the summit dome I was really starting to run out of gas, and we were still more than an hour from the crater. Could I/Should I drop out?! John Rutter’s emphatic answer was a resounding NO! I kept plugging. Now the rim was in sight, and slowly getting closer. But then… what the hell?! Instead of halting for a much needed break we didn’t so much as pause, traversed through the rocks, dropped into the crater and crossed. Sign the book. Un-tie and reach Columbia Crest. Hero shot. The weather was perfect. It was 9:00AM, Sunday, August 25, 1967. Occasionally over the years I have wondered if I blocked our descent from memory; was it that much an ordeal?! I recall very little, other than being incredibly thirsty. In retrospect, we took some wrong turns on the DC (Disappointment Cleaver), which necessitated backtracking uphill (killer). At Muir we were plied with Kool-Aid. The descent to Paradise took forever, but at the parking lot I was one happy, exhausted 16-year-old. I didn’t play organized sports in high school; I grew up with parents who hated camping (but enjoyed road trips and appreciated National Parks); to suggest I wasn’t particularly studious is a gross understatement; but I had just discovered something I loved, that would stay with me for the rest of my life: climbing. Over the next winter I bothered Lou incessantly about becoming an Apprentice Guide (I even applied for work at Paradise Inn, but evidently lacked a requisite talent). At some point (maybe just to put me off), Lou and/or John Anderson said to show up at Paradise in June, and see if there was work. I did; there was; and, there still is! RMI Guide Joe Horiskey Photo Captions: August 25th, 1967 - Joe Horiskey, age 16, on the Mt. Rainier summit. Mt. St. Helens, pre-1980 eruption, in the background. 1968 - Jim Whittaker, Joe Horiskey, and Lou Whittaker on Mt. Rainier. Joe's first year working for the guide service, which became RMI the following year.
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Summited with Joe as the lead guide on a July 1980 trip. I was the anchor on his rope team and wrote about the climb for The Daily World in Aberdeen. I remember that the southeast flanks of the mountain below 13,000 feet were covered in ash from Mount St. Helens eruptions. At our rest stop above DC, Joe gave us a pep talk about some dicey crevasses that awaited us. He said, “Let’s just grab the bull by the horns and go.”

Posted by: John Dodge on 8/14/2024 at 3:26 pm

Great story, thank you for telling us about it. I loved the part when you said “lo and behold someone decided to call it quits after passing through the DC”.This part was where three of my team members last year decided to turn around too ( and I will admit I was about ready to also if guide Bridgette B. hadn’t coached me through my anxiety). RMI has great guides that put their lives in jeopardy so people can achieve their personal goal of reaching the summit. Thank you so much! And Joe, congrats and a high-five for your very first summit at age sixteen!

Posted by: Stephanie Antich on 7/20/2015 at 12:03 am

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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Descends to Base Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 14,400'

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After a great night of sleep, we slowly made our way down the mountain. The team was motivated and made quick work of the descent. Motivated by the thought of hot showers, delicious meals, and communicating with loved ones. A nice evening at Aconcagua Basecamp was had rehashing memorable moments of the trip. We are all very fond of the experience Aconcagua has allowed us to share together.

Till next time,

RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm

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Congratulations on what must have been a really challenging, yet incredibly rewarding journey. Can’t wait to see pictures and hear stories. Well done.

Posted by: Levert on 2/8/2022 at 5:34 am

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Calls Muir Their High Point

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

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Early season weather kept the Mt. Rainier Five Day Climb from ascending above Camp Muir. The teams, led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Andy Bond reported windy and snowy conditions at Camp Muir. The climbers will make their descent to Paradise this morning and will be back in Ashford later day.

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So good to meet you all and thanks to Andy and the gang for a fantastic time on the mountain. I’ll see you guys again in August for an hopefully successful summit bid.

The closed Longmire Gate still haunts my dreams.

Posted by: Xavier on 5/3/2022 at 7:08 am

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Mt. Rainier: Women’s Climb Led by Hannah Smith Summits!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Mt. Rainier Women's Climb, led by RMI Guide Hannah Smith, reached the summit at 6:30 a.m.  The team reported nice weather and good route conditions.  They spent some time on top before beginning their descent back to Camp Muir at 8:00 a.m.

We look forward to congratulating the team this afternoon at Raineir Basecamp!

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Congratulations to all 9 of you women and especially you Amie. You all put in so much work and are an inspiration to us all.
Thank you Hannah and Tatum for getting them to the top!

Posted by: Craig Oberg on 7/30/2021 at 9:30 am

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Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker and the Climbing Team Summit Kalapathar

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

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Summit... of Kalapathar! The team took on Kalapathar, and had a great payday of views galore. Nice weather for most of the day. The Sherpa team also benefited from weather as they are nearly done with all the makings of Camp 2. One comment from a Sherpa that it was very hot in the Khumbu Icefall. Seems ironic. The climbing team is gearing up for a possible early morning test run in the Icefall. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Is everything ok?  Our news said there was an avalanche on Everest.  Please let us know if it didn’t
affect you.

 

Posted by: Jean Kumler on 4/17/2014 at 9:11 pm

Hi Kara
  I’m back home.  Had a really nice time in LA.  Was 85 there—-came home to 35 in Cleve. Your trip is looking amazing and beautiful and cold and challenging.
So glad it’s going well. Keep up the good work everyone
What an awesome experience.

Posted by: Jean Kumler on 4/17/2014 at 6:33 am

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Mt. Baker Backcountry Ski & Ride Course

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

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This weekend our Backcountry Ski and Ride course had an excellent time learning the fundamentals of backcountry skiing.  Saturday gave us a light dusting of fresh snow as we practiced our rescue skills and learned how to move as a group in the backcountry. 

The next day, we practiced making terrain decisions and students navigated the group through the ascents and descents of our long tour.  We ended up having beautiful weather for most of the course and had the whole mountain to ourselves on Sunday. 

Our students are excited to use their new skills for upcoming ski descents of local Washington mountains as well as skiing corn with their friends.  

RMI Guide James Bealer & Team

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