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January 17, 2024 - 5:50 am PT

Our team reached the summit of Ixta via Ayoloco route. We are descending to high camp and will post a full update once in Puebla.

RMI Guide Mike King

Thursday, May 18, 2023 10:55pm PDT

Hello from the Kahiltna Glacier!

What a busy day it was. We loaded planes and were in the air by 9am. It was chilly morning in Talkeetna, warmed by bour last Lattes and Michael but man was it hot on our walk. I thought it was cold in May. We took off downhill on what is called heart break hill. It is not heart breaking yet but it will be on our return. But that is a way away from now. Everything is so big around us you have little idea how far everything is. Is it close or is it miles away? We walked for 5.5 hours to reach our camp at the base of ski hill. It is a tough walk with heavy sleds and heavy packs. You really enter a pain cave to push through. One stretch is your quads, the next your hip flexors, the next your calves, something is always uncomfortable. But hey that is what we signed up for!

After setting up tents and moving in we gathered for dinner. We carried in pizza from Mountain High Pizza, and it was delicious. We topped off the night with a hot drink and the crawled into our sleeping bags. It’s a marvelous feeling to lay down and release the body. Tomorrow we will carry gear to just over 10k feet and then return to our camp for the night. The lighter loads will feel a lot better going up ski hill. Weather is moving in so fingers crossed it stays at bay till we return to camp or even better till the following evening so we can get to 11k camp. The team is looking good, and morale is high.

We are all excited to keep moving uphill.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

The Four Day Climb Team June 2 - 5 led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Chris Ebeling were unable to climb due to high winds. The telemetry at Camp Muir shows average winds speeds in the 50 - 65 mph range from midnight on. The teams will descend to Paradise this morning and return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Sunday, May 26, 2013 Mike Walter & crew rolled into 11,200' Camp tonight at dinner time looking surprisingly good for just having summited and descending from 17,200' today. They're planning on getting an alpine start tonight in order to descend the lower Kahiltna Glacier while it's frozen. They'll be drinking beers and eating steak soon. Our hats are off to the entire team. Congratulations all! RMI Guide Brent Okita

We're at high camp! It was another beautiful morning and the team made good time to our high camp which sits just over 15,000'. We have just finished our summit talk to make sure we are all prepared for tomorrow. Everyone is feeling well and looking forward to tonight's climb. We'll be up early and the goal is to be walking at 1 a.m. If all things go according to plan, then we should reach the summit sometime around 8 in the morning. We had another trivia challenge that will allow the winner a one minute call from the summit. So, if you live in Texas and your nick name is "ZuZu" keep your phone handy. And remember Texas is 9 hours behind. That's all for now. We'll try to call from the top. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

Our luck with good weather persisted this morning and when we woke up for our summit bid perfectly clear night skies greeted us. After pulling on our boots and gobbling down breakfast we grabbed our packs and climbing gear and headed out. It was a gorgeous night with the stars speckling the sky. Being in the heart of the main climbing season on Elbrus dozens of other climbers were attempting their summit bid as well and their headlamps danced up and down the route, reflecting the stars above. We climbed strongly, picking our way up the broad snow slopes below the East Summit, and by dawn we were approaching 17,000'. Just before sunrise, in what seems almost cliche in retrospect, a barrage of shooting stars streaked over the mountain's shoulder, eventually obscured by the rising sun. It was crisp climbing in the darkness and we kept our breaks short to keep from getting cold. The sun finally found us leaving the saddle between the East and West Summits at close to 18,000'. We warmed up quickly in the morning sun as we climbed the steep slopes to gain the plateau of the Western Summit and we were quickly shedding our coats and thick gloves. Around 9 am we ascended the final snow ridge to Elbrus' summit and suddenly there was no more left to climb. Standing atop Europe's highest point, the views were nothing short of spectacular. To our south stood the chain of the Caucasus, the peaks looking a bit less imposing when viewed from above. Behind them we could peer into Georgia while looking north into Russia the rolling alpine pasture land of the Caucasus foothills stretched to the horizon. A light haze layer - most likely from the wildfires raging far to the east - hung just below us, giving the sky striking layers of different hues of blue. There was hardly a breath of wind on the summit, by far the best weather I have experienced up there. After celebrating on the summit we turned our sights back to where we had started and began the descent. We made remarkably quick work of the 6,000' descent and by midday we were back at the Barrels, with tired legs but feeling quite content. True to its pattern, the clouds built by midafternoon and as we rested in our bunks rain spattered the metal barrels, making the sleeping bags all the more alluring. We are tired but thrilled with the climb this morning, we couldn't have hoped for a better day. It was a fantastic climb and we feel very fortunate to have gotten so lucky on a mountain notorious for its fickle and uncertain weather. We are staying here at the Barrels tonight before descending to Azau tomorrow for hot showers and to celebrate our climb.

Saturday, June 22, 2024 - 10:23 PM PT

Best day of the trip (so far)! Certainly as far as weather goes, this was a sweet day clear and cloudless at the start, calm and sunny throughout. But also, as far as climbing goes, this was the best. We left 14K at 9:30 AM, which was plenty cool as we were still in shadow.  We made steady progress up the steep glacial slopes -breaking a few people's personal altitude records in the process. And then we tackled the steeper ice of the fixed rope section. Topping out the ropes at 16,200 ft in perfect weather (basically we had light sweaters on) it was hard to resist forging on. We went another 90 minutes up the crest of the spectacular West Buttress, passing Washburn's Thumb, we reached 16,800 ft. There we dug a raven-proof cache and left our supplies. Our descent was careful but steady. We reached our 14K camp at 6:10 PM. We got in a good dinner before the sun went behind the mountain at 9 pm. Tomorrow we'll rest.

Best,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Mike King reached the very top of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team had clear weather, a solid route, and climbed strong to reach the Summit.  They are back at Camp Muir and will be returning to Ashford Basecamp to celebrate their success this afternoon.

Congratulations to Today's Team! 

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 6:40am today. Brent reported a beautiful morning with clear skies and calm winds of 10 – 15 mph. The team is doing well and have started their descent to Camp Muir. Tyler Jones and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier later in the morning. The team had a great climb and have started their descent back to their high camp on the Wilson Glacier. Congratulations Teams!

Here we are! Once again in Mexico City with another great climbing team. Yes, we are about to head into the mountains. However, one of the greatest parts about international travel is experiencing the sights, sounds, tastes and smells of the beautiful countries we visit. I'd like to disclose the name of the restaurant we had our orientation dinner. However, I cannot give away our secrets. How was it you may ask?....Amazing!!! And guess what! It only gets better! RMI Guide JJ Justman