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The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Daniel May completed their Orientation and Climbing School days and then ascended to Camp Muir on Saturday. Today they were able to do some training at Camp Muir, then packed up their gear and descended to Paradise. The team will conclude their program this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
The RMI Bolivia team led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Andy Bond was unable to attempt a climb of Sajama due to several members of the climbing team catching a bug while in La Paz after the climb of Huayna Potosi. The team started out for the mountain but, unfortunately, were forced to return back to La Paz. Due to this the trip ended early.
Buenos tardes from Aconcagua! Our team enjoyed a great rest day yesterday and it really paid off today on our move to Camp One. Everyone did a great job pushing these big packs uphill and we are recovering with our afternoon siesta from the day's labor. Tomorrow we hope to carry higher and begin to position ourselves for an eventual shot at the top. But first thing's first, time to relax at our new home at over 16,000 feet!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Today was another perfect day, weatherwise. We were up at 9:15 AM when the nightly chill of the lower Branscomb Glacier eased. Then it was time for breakfast and packing... our normal ritual. We were on our way just after 1 PM as planned. Our packs were heavy but the team is strong. We made decent time up to the cache from yesterday, and in fact we continued to make good time once we added those big sled loads. From the time we turned North, hard up against the gigantic western face of
Vinson, we found excellent firm snow conditions. Great for walking, great for dragging sleds. We reached low camp at 6:30 PM and set to work, chiseling a camp into the hard surface. It took the entire gang of five to get a dining/cooking pit dug, but we got it done and had our POSH tent in place for a late but sunny supper. Now it is just after midnight and the sun is making the tents good and toasty. We will have it that way until at least 3 AM but then the sun will run into Vinson and we won't feel its warmth again until 11 AM when it emerges on the other side of the mountain.
We hope to complete a carry up the fixed lines tomorrow with a plan to spend tomorrow night in Low Camp again.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
We are back from the mountain safe and sound. It was a wild morning and it kept rolling throughout the early morning. First, we woke up to a constant rain at the hut.
Solveig and I stayed up and kept checking the weather for improvements. And alas at 2 am the weather cleared. The team was so excited to climb.
We donned our packs and began our ascent. It was a beautiful early morning on
Orizaba. As we inched our way up to the lower glacier I began to notice the snow underneath me doing something unusual. It was settling with a giant whoomph. A clear indication of snow instability. Solveig and I conducted a few snow stability tests and it wasn't looking good. As a matter of fact the snow settling under my feet was the worst I felt.
We contemplated a bit and it was an easy decision. Orizaba was not safe to climb. It can be disappointing not making the summit but with what the team experienced they all understood. Safety is number One. And as Sr. Reyes mentioned as he picked us up...Orizaba isn't going anywhere. We will climb it another day.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
After a calm night at
Machame Camp at 9,800', we packed up this morning under blue skies and strong sun and pushed higher. The team was on the move by 8:00 AM and was immediately on steeper and rougher trails than we'd encountered yesterday. It was quite busy as the porters from a number of teams -including our own- were anxious to get out ahead and make it to Shira Camp as early as possible in order to claim prime sites for their teams. We made good progress, eventually following a rocky ridge line for some distance. It was continually interesting to watch the changes in foliage as we ascended. Looking out, we were above a sea of cloud obscuring the rest of Africa. Our sun and views of Kilimanjaro didn't last. By the time we'd reached about 12,000', clouds formed on the upper mountain and stretched to cover us. By then, we were traversing on blocky lava terraces out towards the Shira plateau. We made it into our new camp at 12:30 and after getting settled, enjoyed a fine hot lunch. Afternoon was mostly rest, relax and acclimatize time as we are now at a lofty 12,300' It is colder here and so we didn't stay up very late, hitting the sack at about seven, just after a hearty supper.
Best Regards,
RMI Guides Dave Hahn
On The Map
The
Five Day Summit Climb led by Robert Montague and the
Four Day Summit Climb led by Jason Thompson reached the summit of
Mt. Rainier this morning. Conditions on the summit were windy (40mph) and clear. The teams are currently resting at Camp Muir before beginning their descent to Paradise; they will be back in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Our Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir was a microcosm of mountaineering: athletic, challenging, moments of joy and occasional disappointment, but ultimately and most importantly a safe adventure. Heavy rain on Monday negated our planned ascent to Camp Muir, but we had a productive day at Rainier Basecamp going over numerous techniques. We reached Camp Muir on Tuesday and spent the next three days practicing skills and preparing folks for future climbs. These skills were crevasse rescue, cramponing, ice climbing, beacon searches, rope travel, route finding and more! Conditions at Muir were sunny, windy and icy most of the week. We encountered a layer of hard ice on the surface of the Cowlitz Glacier (and above) which unfortunately prevented a summit attempt. Our high point was the top of Cathedral Gap, approximately 10,500’.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
Just finished a wonderful meal at The Dik Dik hotel with the whole team.
They all look about the same as when we started the climb, but I believe everyone of them has change in some sense inside. I think a greater self awareness and positive outlook on just how tough and how much they can endure was brought to life over the course of this expedition. Thank goodness for the available hot showers this afternoon it was a nice touch to have them change on the outside.
Perfect weather for our 3 hour hike to the end of the trail where we said good by to a fantastic group of local men who helped us with the climb of Kilimanjaro. Couldn't have done it without them. Thanks so much to The Dik Dik Hotel and RMI staff for all they have done.
We will start the Safari part of the program tomorrow and I will do my best to keep you in the loop.
May it be a short time before this group gets to a new trail head for the start of another great adventure.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guides Tatum Whatford and Felipe Guarderas led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The guides reported an amazing day with light winds and clear skies. The route is busy with climbers so the teams reached the crater rim and have started their descent to Camp Muir. Once back at camp the climbers will enjoy a relaxing afternoon on the mountain and celebrate their accomplishment. The team will spend tonight at 10,080' and continue the remaining 4.5 miles/4,500' down to Paradise tomorrow.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
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Way to go Monica, will be watching this blog daily
Cynthia
Posted by: Cynthia Swanson on 12/30/2013 at 2:31 pm
Excellent work team! Go Monica! We are proud of you and love you.
Posted by: Elliot Marseille on 12/30/2013 at 11:13 am
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