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Storm Prevents Cotopaxi Summit

We're back from Cotopaxi now, relaxing and enjoying warm showers, delicious food, and soft beds at the Hacienda La Cienega. We attempted to summit Cotopaxi this morning, but did not reach the summit due to a ferocious storm that blew in. We woke around midnight to a beautiful starry night. After breakfast and hot drinks, we set out on our climb around 1:00 am. A couple of clouds had started to form by then, but we still enjoyed nice weather for the start of our climb. Ascending the slopes above the climbing hut, everyone was doing well, and it sure seemed as if we had a great day for climbing. By the time we got to around 17,000', the weather changed dramatically; the cloudy sky above soon turned into a cloud that engulfed us. Winds were blowing in the 30-40 mph range, and we were coated in rime ice as we ascended. We reached an elevation of ~17,800' where we were able to take shelter in a natural ice cave formed by a crevasse. The team was climbing strong, given the challenging conditions-the wind made it challenging to keep our balance as we ascended. Even though the team was climbing well, I made the decision to turn around because of safety concerns; steep, icy slopes at these altitudes are no place for a mistake. The summit of Cotopaxi will always be here for us to attempt again, but you don't get a second chance with safety. We all descended safely to the climbing hut where we arrived covered in ice. After a couple hours of warming up and rehydrating, we descended to meet our vehicles and headed for a hot shower! We climbed roughly half way to the summit of Cotopaxi before the weather turned us around. We are all happy and rested now down at the lower altitude of our hacienda (still 10,000'!). Tomorrow we will drive north and head to the Hacienda Guachala. Everyone is healthy and happy, and did well fighting through the challenging weather.
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Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche Climb: Smith & Team Check Gear and Explore Kathmandu

Good morning readers,

Today we awoke at various times. Some have escaped the wrath of the jetlag and some of us not so much. After a few cups of coffee we met for our team meeting where we went over our itinerary, important information and gear check for our time in the Khumbu. Afterwards we loaded a van and went on our city tour. We walked around the Boudhanath Stupa and learned out the Wheel of Life and the Mandala. Next we walked the many steps to the monkey temple and yes there were plenty of cute monkeys. But don't let their cuteness confuse you, they can be quite intimidating. After an afternoon walking around the sites, the team was ready for a quick rest before dinner. Tonight is our last night in Kathmandu. Tomorrow we wake before the sun to head to the airport to fly to Lukla. Please send all your positive, lucky vibes and keep us in your prayers, no matter the religion, for safe travels on our flight and for good weather.

Goodnight and sleep tight,

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sending you all positive vibes and well wishes for a great trip!

Posted by: Shannon Smith on 3/22/2023 at 9:39 am

Hannah, Half price, full snow cone!!  Hope you all have a great time and amazing adventure.

Posted by: Josh Jones on 3/21/2023 at 8:33 pm


Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team at High Camp

Greetings from 15,200'. We were rewarded today with a short three hour hike to Barafu Camp, last stop before the summit. This is it! Tonight we go for the top. Everyone is excited, and perhaps a wee bit nervous. Climbing to 19,340' is no small feat. But with all the preparation and great acclimatization we've taken advantage of we're more than ready. Our wonderful camp staff has been spoiling us rotten, greeting us with bowls of hot water once we got settled in camp and a lunch that couldn't be better. It's amazing what they do here, considering that it takes over two hours for a porter to get a five-gallon bucket of water from the nearest stream. We've discussed the details of the climb tonight and have been preparing our gear so we're all ready for tonight's departure. We'll try to get to bed around 6:00pm and awaken at 11:30pm. Breakfast at midnight and walking shortly thereafter. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

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Mary,
Sending you all my love and positive vibes! You are a true inspiration! Iava, iava, iava! The all is in one and the one is in all! Way to go for it! Xoxo

Posted by: Chantel Nielsen on 7/27/2019 at 7:01 pm

Mary,  Poli Poli all the way to the summit tonight!!!  It will be a beautiful sunrise for you.  Martin

Posted by: Martin on 7/27/2019 at 5:49 pm


Mt. Rainier: Hailes & Four Day Climb Team Turned Back Due to High Winds

The July 20 - 23 Four Day Climb Team was turned around by high winds today. RMI Guide Walter Hailes and team reached approximately 13,400' before making the decision to abort their summit attempt and return to Camp Muir. The teams will continue their descent to Paradise later this morning.
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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Start toward 17, Then Return

Tuesday, July 2, 2013 We had a little bit of a false start here this morning. We woke at 5.30 to clear conditions, and lower winds up above. Altogether, it was a great looking scene, albeit cold; the coldest temps we have seen all trip. We ate a hasty breakfast, and packed camp to move to 17,000'. As we started to walk, clouds began to build, and the winds on the Buttress were rising too. At the base of the fixed lines, we decided that today wasn't the day to make our move, and we retreated back to 14,200' to reset camp. A day like today is tough, but we made the right decision, and everyone is in good spirits. We're hoping that tomorrow morning provides a better opportunity! Until then, best from Alaska. RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

On The Map

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Guapo;
sorry to hear you didn’t get to 17,000 today, but it makes me comfortable knowing that your team guides care about your welfare and safety,and won’t take unnecessary risks.
Best of luck tomorrow,rest well
Guapa

Posted by: marion and maya on 7/3/2013 at 10:22 pm

Hey Gail good to hear you guys are getting some exercise up there…I was beginning to worry you were getting lazy.  Ha…kidding of course!  Sounds like yesterday was a long one, but great to hear everyone is doing well and best of luck for a break in the weather.  Happy early 4th of July, stay safe, have fun!! -Becky

Posted by: Becky on 7/3/2013 at 2:06 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry

Stunningly perfect weather today at 14,200'. We got the stoves going at a leisurely 8:30 AM since we knew we'd be deep in the cold shadows until 9:30. One of the gang measured the overnight temperature at -10 F which was quite a departure from the tropical conditions of the lower mountain. While it was something of a novelty for us to share a camp with so many other folks last night, they'd snuck away for the most part by morning. We did get to wish Linden Mallory's team luck as they departed. Around midday we roped up and strolled down a half hour to where we'd cached food and fuel two days back. Bringing this back up in about an hour and a half completed our ten day "approach" to the mountain. We spent the remainder of the day resting and preparing for the climb. If the good conditions continue we'll climb to 16 or 17,000' tomorrow carrying supplies and acclimating, but then we'll duck back down here to our comfortable camp in Genet Basin. RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Spencer Guinn are you on this team.  If you are God be with you.  We need you back..  Hope all is well.
I understand your calling to this peak.  I’ve had many crazy adventures in my life that I needed to forfill.  BE SAFE   Hope to see you soon,  Hugh

Posted by: Hugh Sales on 7/10/2011 at 7:45 pm

Hi Stewart,
Have been following the blogs and glad to see everything seems to be going well! Its nice and hot here needing some rain!
Love , Mom

Posted by: Ruby Fleming on 7/10/2011 at 11:04 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Back from Summit

The team woke early to the most incredible weather, no wind, blue skies, and sun on the tents. Although the over night temps dipped to -15F, the sun quickly warmed our group and fired up our motivation for a long day of hard work. By 9:30 we were headed back into the shade of the Autobahn and climbing up to Denali Pass, kicking steps into the soft, steep snow. Our crew set the track for the day being the first out. Two hours of cold shady trail breaking led us back to the sun and our first windless break at 18,300ft where spirits were rejuvenated. We continued to press higher and higher, until we arrived onto the flat plateau of the Football Field where the solar radiation had it feeling more like a day at the beach than 19,500' on Denali. One final grind up Pig Hill and we were on the summit ridge, with only one stretch between our team and the top of the continent. The clear weather gave us hundreds of miles of views in every direction, with only a few scattered clouds way below us to add texture to the breathtaking scenery. A few tears were shed as we climbed the final few feet to the summit, and then it was all smiles, hugs, and mugging for the obligatory summit photos. We stood on top for a half hour or so, and then began the descent back to thicker air and our cozy camp. What an incredible day in the mountains for our team! We're settled in now and planning for a fairly early launch back down the mountain. Our goal is 14k camp and the rest of our gear, then a quick trip downhill to 11k. We're all tired, sore, hungry, thirsty...but ultimately incredibly happy and proud of today's accomplishment. Kudos to everyone on the team, and thanks to everyone out there pulling for us! RMI Guide Tyler Jones
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DEAREST BEN, CAN’T WAIT TO HEAR THE STORIES OF THIS
ONCE IN A LIFETIME TRIP.  SO VERY HAPPY YOU ALL MADE IT
TO THE SUMMIT SAFELY, CAN ONLY IMAGINE THE FEELING YOU MUST HAVE HAD.  CONGRATULATONS ONCE MORE.  A VERY SAFE RETURN TO ALL OF YOU.  GOD BLESS YOU ALL.  TE QUIERO MUCHO Y MUY ORGULLOSA DE TI.  MA


Posted by: carmen keegan on 6/19/2011 at 4:52 am

Incredible experience you all are having!  Congratulations on the safe summit!  Reading the updates have been quite enjoyable. 

Hope the rest of the trek goes well, Justin and Dad, us here in Columbia are cheering for you.

Posted by: Jacob Halls on 6/18/2011 at 8:03 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Enjoy First Night on the Glacier

Monday, May 16, 2022 - 6:54 am PT

We spent our first night in the Alaska range cozy in our -20 bags and woke to clear skis and a stunning view all around. The peak of Denali above had a small cloud hat, but otherwise the mountains jutted up into the blue and the sky promised another gorgeous day. We fired the stoves for breakfast and as the sun got closer to camp, woke everyone.

After bagel bacon sandwiches, we set to the task of organizing what gear we were going to move uphill to cache. A fair bit of our food and fuel made up the bulk of it. We departed, loads considerably lighter than yesterday and worked our way up Ski Hill. Several hours of steady uphill work brought us to 9700', where we opted to dig a deep hole in the snow and hide our treasure, to be retrieved in a few days. Moving light and downhill, we made quick work of the descent back to camp and a dinner of burritos. And so goes the rhythm of Denali - wake, eat, walk, eat, sleep. We'll touch base tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yay burritos!!
Wishing you guys best of rest and best of power and energy for your journey.
Thanks for blogging, it makes it lovely to day dream about majestic Alaska. Be sure to look near Cassiopeia for the Andromeda galaxy, you can see it from up there with just your eyes, looks like a little smudge up there.

Posted by: Kasia Pawluskiewicz on 5/20/2022 at 6:44 pm

Hello there!!
Have d’un, enjoy a lot and record all the special moments you’re gonna live

Posted by: Beth on 5/18/2022 at 2:12 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Beren & Team Summit Pico de Orizaba

Hello, this is Jake and team on the top of Pico de Orizaba under an absolutely beautiful sky today. It's a little stormy around us, but it's blue above us. And we had just about perfect conditions today on the way. So we are super happy, everyone did very well and we're at the halfway mark. So we'll give you a shout when we get down, and let you know how everything went. For right now, I'm super proud of the team. Everyone did well and the halfway mark has been reached. So take care everybody. Talk to you later. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from the summit of Pico de Orizaba, Mexico.

On The Map

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Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Have a Snow Day

The snow began falling about the time we got into our sleeping bags last night. It didn't quit. When we poked heads out for a look-see around 3:30 AM, it was still piling up pretty good, and so there wasn't any consideration given for going ahead with the icefall plan for the day. Back to bed and wait and see, was the plan. It had snowed about a foot by breakfast. The gang assembled and we spent the day biding our time. We didn't have great conditions for walking with powder snow over uneven rock and ice. The clouds and flurries hung in all day. We could hear and occasionally see puja ceremonies going on at the camps around us. All-in-all it was a quiet day of waiting. We'll see what tomorrow brings. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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PMR,  like the beard, true mountain man look!! 

Ken

Posted by: Ken Nelson on 4/13/2015 at 10:30 pm

Larry,
An oven, was that really an oven in JJ’s picture? Amazing…
Glad your getting some good food and company up there. Love you!

Posted by: Debbie Worden on 4/13/2015 at 8:58 pm

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