After our beautiful bluebird day on Mount Frances we went to bed satisfied with our climbing. We spent our last full day dialing in rescue techniques and ice climbing in crevasses.
Yesterday we woke up early for our flight back to Talkeetna and enjoyed a celebratory toast. A sweet success! Everybody left for home with lots of knowledge on modern climbing techniques and as more experienced climbers.
Thank you very much team for the great times in the Alaska Range and I'm already looking forward to next year's Alpine Seminar.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin
Howdy, from the Kahiltna.
Today we made more progress moving nearly all our groceries, gas, and cold weather climbing equipment up to 10k just below Kahiltna Pass. The team climbed strong and moved very efficiently completing the big carry in just five hours round trip - not bad considering the 6ft+ deep hole we needed to dig to fit 15 days of food, gallons of gas and extra personal equipment for our 12-man crew. The weather was in our favor with nice travel temperatures and overcast skies that quickly turned to moderate snow just moments after our team's arrival back to camp just below Ski Hill. With a bit of remission of the snow tomorrow we'll pack camp and move to 11k, where the crampons and ice axes come out and the steeper climbing at altitude kicks in. We will update you again soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Hiiiii Ben!
Sounds like a lot of fun! We are glad the weather is on your side, we are sure it will stay that way. Be safe. God Bless. and take lots of photos!
Em and JB
Posted by: Emily and James on 6/8/2011 at 7:59 pm
Tyler, enjoyed climbing with you and Pete May 20-23. I am amazed by what you do every day! Thanks for the well-written updates. I’ll be back next year for Rainier again. Will follow you on Denali to see if I’m up to the challenge. Stay safe. —John
Hey everyone, Peter Whittaker here with the First Ascent and RMI team in Antarctica checking in. We had a great day today. We actually moved from Basecamp up to Camp 1 on the Branscomb Glacier. Five and a half miles and it took us about 5 ½ hours, and we gained 2,000 feet. So we're up at 9000 feet now, just over 9, at Camp 1. We had beautiful weather today with very little wind kept conditions nice and the whole team moved up smartly. Seth and Caroline got out before us on skis, and hauled up a load into camp, set up tents and had a hot brewing for us when we got in. It was awesome. And so we're here now. It's about 9 o'clock at night. It is January 6th and Seth wanted to be sure and wish Solveig a “happy birthday.”
Our plan for tomorrow is to… most of us are gonna hang out up here, a couple of us are gonna head back down, and do a back carry, grab loads from base camp. The rest of our food and fuel to bring it up to [Camp] 1 and then will be self sufficient here from Camp 1 to move on up to [Camp] 2 and then eventually the summit. The weather's been just fantastic so far, and we're hoping that it does hold. The team’s well, everyone is enjoying themselves, and we just wanted to share with you our latest. We will talk to you soon, over and out.
After a somewhat fitful nights sleep accompanied by the barking of our new dog friend and the whineying of mules, the team awoke to some slightly threatening skies. Luckily we had the reprieve of our dome tent to allow for an easy morning breakfast and coffee. As if the coffee wasn't enough to wake us up we began the morning crossing the Vacas River to enter into the Relinchos Valley. The mules were hot on our tail as we began our gradual ascent to Plaza de Argentina Basecamp. Once gaining a high platuea we received our second view of Ameghino and Aconcagua. The stoke rose with the elevation. We were greeted warmly to Plaza de Argentina with some tasty and warm lentil soup, juice, dulce de leche and fresh fruit. The afternoon was spent taking in the panoramic views and lots of relaxing. After another delicious meal and some fine Mendoza malbec, the team, full, happy and tired, retreated to their tents. That's it for now, tune in next time!
Holá amigos! We awoke to clear skies and moderate winds again as we had a leisurely morning preparing for our move to Camp 2 (18,000ft). The team did great navigating gusty winds and heavy packs to push into Camp 2 in phenomenal style. With camp all established, we'll enjoy a short siesta before firing stoves, eating dinner and looking forward to a rest day tomorrow! All the best from Aconcagua.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Happy New Year Beng Hoe. It is so cool being able to follow the expedition through the blog. All the more so as we are able to see you in the a number of the photos, even if it is the back of your head! It is so beautiful out there. It must be amazing to be spending New Year up there. Miss you. Helen, Laura and Andrew
Posted by: Helen Lim on 1/2/2014 at 8:45 pm
Hey Steve and team,
I’ll trade you some of your heat for the 18 inches of snow and sub zero wind chills we’re expecting in Boston over the next 24 hours!
Hi all
Joy, Jim, and I are enjoying a restful day here at the lower bivy camp (6,200') on Mt. Shuksan. We have accomplished some training in between showers, spirits are high and everyone is having a good time. Forced tent time is notorious on any long climb and such skills as "sport eating" and "competitive napping" are worth being good at, and we have practiced both today. We are hoping for better weather tomorrow for more training and to move camp higher on the mountain.
Thanks to everyone for checking in.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
RMI Guide Mark Tucker checking in from Camp 3 Barranco camp on Kilimanjaro. Yet another beautiful day of hiking and climbing for the group, lucky, lucky, us. We are at about 12,800 feet now. We did get up to almost 15,000 feet today and broke a lot of people's altitude records. Everyone did just fine. We are staring up at the Barranco Wall which we will tackle in the morning. It's actually a very fun part of the climb, a little bit of scrambling. For tactical beat we are going to drag our feet a little bit in the morning. There are a few other teams up here so we will let them get a head start and hopefully have the wall pretty much to ourselves which will be great photos and just a bit more fun. It will be a little bit of a shorter day tomorrow getting to our next camp. Some of the folks on a six day climb will push all the way to high camp tomorrow. But we'll go ahead and split that into two days. It really helps out for the success ahead. So, its a beautiful night outside. I am staring up at the glaciers, what's left of them - they have been dwindling, but who knows that could change. I can't ask for a better group of folks, we are having a fun time and everyone is just doing really well. So fingers crossed, couple of more days of this and we will be heading for the summit. Can't wait.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker checks in from Barranco Camp at 12,800 ft on Kilimanjaro,
Friday, June 28th, 2013
As planned, we fired up the stoves shortly after our 1 AM wake up. The plan in getting up so early, was to be moving during the coldest part of the day when we could hope that the glacial surface would be frozen solid. That would make sled hauling and walking in general a lot easier than pulling through slush, but more importantly, a freeze would make things safer, bridging the crevasses we'd need to cross. It was apparent this morning, as we ate breakfast and took down tents, that we weren't going to get a hard freeze. Temperatures hadn't dipped low enough, and there was cloud overhead that seemed to act as a warm, damp blanket, insulating the glacier and messing with our plans. But things had firmed up a little anyway, and by 4:15 AM when we hit the trail, snowshoes were doing the job in preventing "post-holing". Rigging up properly for such travel is far more complicated when sleds are in the mix, so the fact that it took some time to get organized was not unexpected. That extra time paid off when we were able to move good and steady without any gear glitches or malfunctions. The first hour took us down about 500 feet in elevation to the main Kahiltna Glacier where we turned North. We began to meet a few rope teams on their way out and it was great to meet an old friend or two in passing and to hear of their adventures on the mountain. Our second and third hour-long pulls took us past Mount Francis (hiding in cloud) and the junction with the East Fork of the Kahiltna. By the fourth and fifth sections of the climb we passed the Kahiltna Peaks and made it to the NE Fork junction... about where we wanted to be at the base of Ski Hill. By this point we were thankful to have cloud cover giving us relief from the sun as we built camp and crawled into tents for an afternoon snooze.
After a quiet and easy afternoon in the tents, we met for dinner in the deluxe POSH dining complex dug by Zeb, Erik and Mike King. We turned in early once again anticipating another early start tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello from Quito! This is Seth. I arrived late last night along with several members of the team. The airport was packed full of summer travelers but we managed to get through with all of our bags. We were met by our driver Victor and he whisked us off to the Hotel Mercure in downtown Quito. Today I have been busy shopping for our dinner and breakfast food for the hut on Cotopaxi while the team members that are here are stretching their legs around town. Tonight I'll head back to the airport to pick up our remaining teammates.
I'll check in tomorrow after our tour of Colonial Quito.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Four Day Summit Climb June 18 - 21 Team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. It's a beautiful day with blue skies and sunshine. The team began their descent from the crater rim at 7:58 a.m. en route to Camp Muir. They will continue down to Paradise later this afternoon.
Congratulations to the team members!
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Hiiiii Ben!
Sounds like a lot of fun! We are glad the weather is on your side, we are sure it will stay that way. Be safe. God Bless. and take lots of photos!
Em and JB
Posted by: Emily and James on 6/8/2011 at 7:59 pm
Tyler, enjoyed climbing with you and Pete May 20-23. I am amazed by what you do every day! Thanks for the well-written updates. I’ll be back next year for Rainier again. Will follow you on Denali to see if I’m up to the challenge. Stay safe. —John
Posted by: John Corona on 6/8/2011 at 8:24 am
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