Most Popular Entries
Posted by: Zeb Blais, Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 6,700'
The guide team monitored weather conditions throughout the night, only to find snow and poor visibility each time we looked out of our tent. With our time frame and weather forecast, our plan for the day is to pack up camp and take as much time as we need to get down the Chimneys safely. We'll send another dispatch from town.
Until then-
RMI Guide Zeb Blais & Team
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Jeff Martin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Hello,
We had our pre-flight briefing this morning at 10:30 am. There were about 20 climbers from all over the world who met up at the ALE office in Punta Arenas for this very informative presentation about what will be happening over the next day or so. One of ALE's owners, Mike Sharp, covered all the details regarding our 4 1/2 hour flight down to Union Glacier. We learned that due to construction on the runway here at Punta Arenas, there is not enough distance on the runway for our plane to take off fully loaded. The solution: take off with only half the fuel needed for the trip and fly a short distance to Ushuaia, Argentina and top off the tanks. And by topping off the tanks, we are talking 40 tons of fuel. It will add a little time to our flight, but there's no refueling options on the 3800 mile round trip flight to Antarctica.
The plan now stands as us getting picked up at our hotel tomorrow morning at 4:45 am and heading out to the airport. They have already picked up our luggage and it will be loaded on the plane tonight and ready for our early departure.
Remember, it's only a plan at this point, as there are still a few big unknowns, mainly the weather at Union Glacier. Winds with blowing snow and poor visibility will mean that we will stay put for another day or two. But the forecast is looking favorable and we are ready to fly out whenever we get the green light.
Tonight we ventured off the usual circuit of restaurants and found a local's hangout. The food was great and we have Bill to thank for picking up the tab this time. Now it's early to bed because it will be early when we rise.
Hopefully the next dispatch will be from Antarctica!
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Levi Kepsel led their Emmons Seminar team through a mountaineering school at Paradise today. It was a beautiful day as shown in JJ's video of photos.
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
The Four Day Summit Climb turned at the traverse of the Cleaver (11,500') this morning. They were back at Muir and did some crevasse rescue training before descending to Paradise. The team is back in Ashford at Rainier Basecamp.
The Four Day Summit Climb July 1 - 4 led by Tyler Jones and the Five Day Summit Climb June 30 - 4 July reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported light winds and clear skies. At 7:05 a.m. the teams were at 13,500' on their descent en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's climbers and Happy 4th of July!
Posted by: Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Welcome to our Mexico's Volcanoes blog, where we will keep our friends, family and pets up to date on our travels and climbs.
The team arrived in Mexico City today!
It was a sunny and warm day to explore the city and all it offers. Friendly locals, good food and lots of history. The team stretched their legs after traveling with walks around the city and Chapultepec Park, which provided shade and quiet.
Tonight we prepare and rest for our acclimitization hike tomorrow where our adventure really begins!
RMI Guide Abby Westling and Team
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories:
Ouray, CO is a small mountain town located near the ski resort of Telluride, CO and in the heart of the San Juan mountains. Ouray has become the preeminent destination in the U.S. for ice climbing, and is known throughout the world as well. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens has spent his last five winters climbing and guiding ice in Ouray, and gives his top five reasons to visit the small, exciting mountain town this winter.
1. The Ouray Ice Park: Located two minutes from town, the Ouray ice park is the largest man-made ice park in the world. With over 200 established routes ranging from beginner to difficult ice and mixed climbs and immediate in-town access, the park is the place for any climber to hone their skills. Managed by the Ouray Ice Park staff who turn on nearly 100 showerheads every afternoon to rebuild ice for the next day and keep the park in tip-top shape, this unique playground is free to the public, though donations are much appreciated. The ice park is open seven days a week from mid December to late March.
2. Back Country Ice Climbing: The San Juan Mountains surrounding Ouray are home to many of the best backcountry ice in the US. From roadside multi-pitch climbs on Camp Bird Road to long alpine style ice in Eureka and Telluride, one can find amazing ice and beautiful Rocky Mountain solitude within an hour drive. Famous backcountry routes including Stairway to Heaven, The Ribbon, Skylight, and Bridal Veil Falls are just a few of the sought after classics in the area.
3. The Town of Ouray: This small mountain town has a rich climbing culture. It is not uncommon to see world-class climbers grabbing a pint at the Ourale House or coffee and decadent treat at Mouse’s Chocolate and Coffee following a day on the ice. With over 130 years of history, the town of Ouray is an eclectic blend of new and old. There are a plethora of unique restaurants, coffee shops, and hotels where climbers reconvene with stories from the day’s escapades and plans for tomorrow’s adventure.
4. The Ouray Hot Springs: Located in the heart of town, the Ouray Hot Springs is a public soaking spot not to be missed. Hosting four pools ranging in temperatures from 88º to 106º, the hot springs provide a wonderful way to relax those sore muscles after a day of ice climbing.
5. The Ouray Ice Fest: Typically falling on the second weekend in January, the Ouray Ice Fest is the event of the year. During the day, clinics like ‘Intro to Ice’, ‘Steep Ice Techniques’ and ‘Speed and Efficiency on Ice’ are hosted by world-class athletes and guides. In the evening, slideshows, presentations and events such as the Petzl party are held in town. Don’t be too engrossed to miss the highlight of the weekend: the ice climbing competition. Top climbers from around the world come to test their skill on the difficult competition wall.
For anyone interested in learning to ice climb, or looking to take their skills further, Ouray is the perfect destination. The density of available routes, across the spectrum of difficulty, means that there is something for everyone in Ouray. Join one of our Ice Climbing programs this year, and let Geoff or another of our exceptional guides share the excitement of ice climbing with you!
_____
Geoff Schellens is a senior guide at RMI. An AMGA certified rock guide, Geoff guides exciting mountain adventures around the world for RMI. Geoff will be guiding Ice programs in Ouray this winter, before starting off his summer season leading an expedition on the West Rib of Denali and then on to Alpamayo. Let Geoff share his wealth of ice climbing knowledge with you this winter!
This is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp, 17,500 feet on the Khumbu Glacier. Well, we made it. We came up from Lobuche today, the entire team- six climbers, two trekkers, and two guides. Tschering Dorjay Sherpa, our Sirdar, leading the way, brought us up to Base Camp. I think we are about the first climbing team to make it into Base Camp this year. And at our base camp, incredible progress has been made. Our Sherpa team has done great work setting our camp up and Mark Tucker, our base camp manager, has been here the last couple of days and got things buffed out just perfectly for us to move in.
We started up from Lobuche at 8:15. We got to Base Camp at 1:15, so we made great progress. It was a beautiful day with just a little cloud cover, and it was just about perfect for walking. Tomorrow we'll get squared away and get internet capabilities again, and get back into written distractions, but just wanted to bring you up to date for this evening. Bye now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn calling after arriving to Everest Base Camp.
Posted by: JJ Justman, Mike King, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,600'
There I was, putting one foot in front of the other, over and over and over again. I knew what everyone was thinking. Who's going to the Super Bowl!! And thanks to one of our team members little go go gadgets, his wife texted the final scores. Go Seahawks! Go Broncos! Who cares, Green Bay isn't in it.
The team packed up base camp and moved outta base camp. On move days the packs are always heavier loaded with tents and kitchen gear. Everyone did fantastic and we are now settled into our new home at 16,600 feet on Aconcagua. We just finished with some hot soup. It's like I always say, you have to put money in the bank. We used up some good energy getting here and you have to replenish and put energy back in to keep the bank account at a million bucks.
Speaking of a million bucks, anyone want to place some bets on the Super Bowl!?
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Keeping pushing forward, dad (Lew Smith)! I know you are doing awesome! So proud of you!!!
Love ya,
Kyle
Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/23/2014 at 8:50 am
Go Diane! from the Nissan TMG team
Posted by: Ed Nicholson on 1/22/2014 at 12:04 pm
The last RMI Denali team of the 2013 climbing season is in place in Talkeetna. All people (12) and all baggage (24 plus) made it to Anchorage without delay. We met at four in the afternoon and shortly thereafter we'd connected with Bill, our Denali Overland shuttle driver and we began the shuttle to Talkeetna. We got to feel the much discussed heat wave... It was hot. We took a short break in Wasilla, to take on final provisions, and then Bill took us up to Talkeetna town. Most elected to take it easy on this jet lagged evening, settling down to a comfy night in the Talkeetna Motel.
Work starts tomorrow.
(And there will be pictures)
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Mike King is my nephew and we want to follow him UP!
Posted by: Bonnie Roberts on 6/27/2013 at 8:37 am
Robbie, It’s Liz Weiner. I am in London with Olivia and we spent the morning with Laura at church and brunch. Way to go with reaching Base Camp on Easter. Very special. Looking forward to following your progress. All the best to you and your team! God bless.
Posted by: Elizabeth Weiner on 4/5/2015 at 1:08 pm
Happy Easter to all. Watching daily from Arizona as we pre-heat the oven for summer. Safe climbing.
Posted by: Josh on 4/5/2015 at 8:39 am
View All Comments