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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Team Okita on the Summit!

Wednesday, June 5, 2013 Hi, this is Brent calling from the RMI Okita McKinley Expedition and we're calling you from the summit of Mt. McKinley. Right now it's 5 o'clock in the afternoon on a beautiful day here, minimal winds and a few high clouds around. It is just gorgeous! The team did a super job getting up here today. We are taking photos right now and getting ready to head out and get back to camp. I will try and give another call when we are back to camp. I just wanted to let you know everyone is doing super well at 20,320. Congratulations to the team! I am a bit emotional. It has been a great day. Bye.


RMI Guide Brent Okita calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley, 20,320 ft.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You are amazing Gerald!!!!  You are one in a million, always have been and always will be!!!  We miss you tons! Please come and visit with family ASAP!  The Hamptons in the summer isn’t the same without you!  Love you Gerald!
Love,
Kimmy

Posted by: KImmy on 6/24/2013 at 8:35 am

Simply phenomenal!
Congratulations
-th

Posted by: Tom H on 6/8/2013 at 1:53 pm


Mountaineering Training | Fit To Climb Debrief

As the climbing season on Mt. Rainier gets underway, I want to acknowledge the hard training that has been logged. For climbers attempting mid or late season expeditions, I also want to offer encouragement for the remaining weeks and months ahead.    The Fit To Climb training program is rigorous and to complete it in its entirety requires a substantial commitment of time and effort. Do people follow it to-the-letter? Sometimes yes, often no - people become ill, work or family situations come up and the best plans work on the basis of flexibility.    A quote I find useful is, "My current circumstances do not determine the outcome, merely the point from where I begin." No matter where my fitness is today, my job is to make the best of the remaining time between now and my climb. Practically, I'll assess things in order of importance and re-evaluate strengths. For example, I have a Mt. Rainier climb on July 11th. I'll be a little short on training time during the next month so I need to improvise and adapt. I feel that I have the muscular strength I need now and I'd like to be better prepared to 'go long' and to improve hiking efficiency. So, in order of importance, long hikes, back-to-back long hikes, and stair intervals will go in my calendar as priorities. I'll also pay close attention to rest and nutrition to ensure that I can recover well.     I'll also make sure that I focus my attention during training to ensure that I'm doing each session in a way that ensures quality results. For me, that means attention to detail; everything from gear to food - and a full effort, especially on interval training.    A paradox of training for a major climb is that we want to set the bar high in training in order to replicate the demands we'll have during the expedition, however, we also want to maintain confidence if we fall short of a training session or goal. It's rarely a linear process; sometimes we feel awful just when we expected to be strong, sometimes our perfect plan goes sideways, and sometimes we feel doubt when everything has been completed perfectly.    As you start the final push, think of the key elements of success: Maintain momentum, rest when you need to, push hard when you feel strong, and constantly think about how you can recover well. And most importantly, be confident that your efforts will pay off; many people have climbed and succeeded in their goals while having not completed all of the training or while feeling sub-par. I remind myself that one can miss a few classes and still graduate. It's progress, not perfection, that counts. - John Colver Have a question? See the Fit To Climb FAQ for explanations of specific exercises and general pointers to help you through the Fit To Climb Program. John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hey John,

My is Mike Lang and on the 22th June I started my climb of Rainier along with two of the greats, Ed Veisturs and Peter Whittaker, it was their first climb together this year and our whole team summited at 5.30 am on the 24th.

It was one of the hardest things I have ever done and I wanted to show my two hero’s that I was upto the task.

I followed your programe “Fit to climb” as close as possible and by the end of the 16 weeks was the fittest I have ever been…..I still had moments on the hill that tested me both Physically & mentally but I was able to fall back on my training, take a few deep breaths and suck it up when needed then continue to climb…..thats an awesome feeling.

I just wanted to thank you for your exellent programe and for the professional way its delivered every week without fail.

This last email that I just read talked about those times in our training that dont go completely to plan….so true! however your also 100% correct in saying focus on whats most important at the time and make that your priority, use the time you have left to your upmost advantage by doing the small things right and now that im finished my climb I would like to add that so many of the small things like having your food and water prepared for your breaks and knowing where your sunscreen is etc can be just as important on the day as your fittness….you stuff up your timing on those breaks and it can mean disaster on your overall preformance.

Awesome information John and thanks once again for all your help, you were a great remote mentor and it really helped me complete my goal.

Good luck with your new book….

Cheers Mike

Posted by: Mike Lang on 7/7/2014 at 2:10 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Summits!

The Four Day Climb with RMI Guides Mike King and Dustin Wittmier were on the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Above this heavy marine layer, team had clear skies, sunshine and mild winds. The climbing was great with a with a direct route and it took the team 5 hours to get to the top.

Congratulations team! 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Woo hoo! Way to go Kelly and Janette! I’m super proud of you both. Can’t wait to hear the details and celebrate. Have fun sliding down! :)

Posted by: Jerry Verhoff on 7/3/2022 at 9:26 am

Congrats Kelly & Janette! So proud of you- woohoo!!! Love you both!

Posted by: Christina on 7/2/2022 at 5:05 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Arrive in Cheget

The team left Moscow very early this morning and traveled via plane and bus to the beautiful Caucasus Mountains. Our two-hour flight took us to southern Russia not too far from the Black Sea to a place called Mineralnye Vody, which is known for its abundant Mineral Waters. Southern Russia is predominately rural and is responsible for much of the agriculture that the larger cities depend on. We were met at the airport by my friend and local guide Yuri, whom I've climbed with many times. Then hopped in our van for the beautiful three-hour drive up the Baksan Valley to the base Elbrus. Things went pretty smooth minus a few little traffic jams with cars, motorcycles and cows all humorously trying to use the road at the same time. The small town we are in is called Cheget, and it doubles as a ski town in winter and converts to a climbing town in the summer. We didn't do a ton of exploring this afternoon due to the adjustment of the time that we are all still feeling and having started so early. However, tomorrow we will do our first acclimatizing hike and do a little exploring too. All is well here as we are looking forward to a little exercise tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom

On The Map

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Vinson Massif: Move to High Camp

Half past one in the morning and the sun is blazing away at high camp on Mt. Vinson. We made the move up today. It was a murky day from the start, with lazy clouds and light snowfall keeping the views pretty limited as we cranked on up the steep fixed rope section. We made the trip in about 6.5 hours, coming in to camp just after 9 PM. By midnight we'd gotten a good hot dinner and the team was turning in while the clouds began to drop away. We'll likely take a rest day tomorrow and go for the top on December 11th if weather permits. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

You guys are amazing!! While we are sitting in our warm places you are weathering the incredible cold hights..Wishing you great weather all the way to the summit!! Go, Vlado go!
Lumir, Maria and Patrick

Posted by: maria popek on 12/9/2011 at 10:38 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: King and Team Stretch Legs, Arrive at La Jolla

We got an early start after breakfast today. Eventually we made a short stop in Amecameca for some last minute provisions and a light lunch before riding up to Paso de Cortez where the park entrance for Ixta resides. We opted for a five mile hike instead of riding the bus on the bumpy road. While the hike was mostly on a gated dirt road we enjoyed the rolling grassy hills and scattered pine trees. Afternoon clouds had built up and we were able to see the lower portion of our climbing route. 

We’ll spend the remainder of the afternoon setting up tents and getting our gear sorted for the move up to our high camp tomorrow. The Team is doing well and hoping for Popo to put off some ash plumes for some good photos. We will check in tomorrow from high camp.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Mexico Volcanoes: King & Team Arrive in Mexico City, head to La Malinche

The  Mexico Volcanoes Team arrived yesterday with all their equipment. Today we left Mexico City for a two and a half hour drive through the scenic country side on our way to La Malinche. Along the way we got great views of Orizaba, Ixta and Popo. In my eight trips I’ve not seen the air quality this clear for such long distances. Which makes having our hike cut short around 12,000’ due to the park police turning hikers around all the more disappointing. This area is known for afternoon thunderstorms and apparently the park is instituting a strict turn around time now. 

We decided to listen to the tactically dressed officer with the gun and not end up in a Mexican jail. The group got a chance to stretch their lungs and legs some, we all would have hoped for a longer hike. The remainder of the day will be spent in the former Olympic training center that now hosts tourists and locals. We will look forward to heading to Ixta tomorrow for a hike and gear check. 

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King

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Great job dad, keep going. Moms says hi.

Love, Daniel

Posted by: Daniel Kovatich on 11/10/2021 at 6:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Down and Done!

Thursday, July 7, 2022 - 11:52 am PT

We are calling ourselves lucky.  Very lucky.  The clouds moved away long enough for the glacier surface to freeze up for our nighttime ramble down the lower Kahiltna.  We started walking down from 11,000 at 12:30 AM.  The midnight sun was beautiful on the peaks around us as we cruised down in the cool shadows.  The first hours, to the base of Ski Hill, were straightforward… then things got complicated.  Lots and lots of crevasse crossings.  But that is where the freeze helped immensely.  It also didn’t hurt that other teams preceded us, breaking into holes and showing us where not to walk.  In the end we made it through without any collapsed bridges.  It took about seven hours to get to the airstrip.  Half the team flew off in a K2 Otter just before 10 AM but before the plane could make it back for the other half, clouds rolled in.  They didn’t roll away until mid afternoon, at which point the Otter swooped in to get the job done.  We were the last team on Denali for the 2022 season… and then we were just a bunch more tourists in Talkeetna with funny tans.  The team had a celebratory dinner at Mile High Pizza Pie, and then a late night Cornhole tournament in the beer garden of the Fairview Inn.  A little live music and a nightcap (or two) put a finish on an excellent expedition.  Thanks for following. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Photos courtesy of Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to Jim Karmozyn and the entire team on a safe and successful climb and return.

Posted by: Ted Wioncek on 7/8/2022 at 12:17 pm

Woweeee!  So proud of you all!  What an awesome, incredible journey!  We thoroughly enjoyed following along.
Welcome back!

Diana and Tom

Posted by: Diana Weiss on 7/7/2022 at 3:24 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition:  Anniversary of Jim Whittaker’s First American Everest Summit

Hey Jim Whittaker! Happy 48th Anniversary of the first American on the summit of Mount Everest. Nobody from any country is on top May 1st this year. Steady progress is being made in that direction, but I would think even with perfect conditions ahead, it will still be another week before anyone summits. The Whittaker family is a big part of RMI. Jim's twin brother Lou, being the Chief Guide of RMI for years. His son Peter leading the charge at RMI now, and his brother Win involved in the family business as well. Last year I worked with Jim's son Leif on his climb of Everest. On Jim's summit day he had a Sherpa climbing partner named Nawang Gombu. Gombu, as we all called him around Mount Rainier, would work the summers with us on Rainier. He was the youngest member of the 1953 expedition which made the first ascent of Mount Everest. In 1965 he reached the summit again, becoming the first person to climb Mount Everest twice. It was always a pleasure to work with him on the mountain. Just the nicest guy, and anybody who was lucky enough to climb or spend time with him, new they were touched by a very special man. I received the sad news of his passing last week. He will be greatly missed. I had the honor of being part of the 1990 Mount Everest Peace Climb led by Jim Whittaker. Our goal was to summit on April 22, the twenty year anniversary of Earth Day. We did not get our first team to the summit until May 6th. Point being, that without much fixed line, and that early in the season, our hats go off to you Jim, for an amazing accomplishment. We should all be so proud of our team, for the respect they are showing to Jim's mountain and the effort put forth to preserve his legacy. Dave and crew did another climb up to the base of the face and back to Camp 2 for the night, they plan to give a go at the Lhotse Face tomorrow. Rest today for the Sherpa team, but just handed off supplies to be taken to Camp 2 tomorrow. Till next time, RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go, team! Thinking of you all the time up at Camp 2 and beyond.
Saw Katie’s second LAX game against Holy Innocents on a gorgeous Saturday. She is such a trooper and it was a tough loss. Have to catch more games in the coming weeks.
Be safe and take our love with you.

Posted by: Mom / Grandma on 5/2/2011 at 6:52 am

News from the home front I thought you would want to hear….. Osama bin Laden has been killed by US forces in Pakistan.  They have just announced tonight at 10:30 PM.  Stay safe!!!!!!  xxoo Stacey

Posted by: Stacey on 5/1/2011 at 8:29 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek: Team Returns to Pheriche

We left BC today after a very comfortable and enjoyable stay.The team has enjoyed the trek through the Khumbu, but without a doubt, our BC set up had the nicest dining room, cleanest bathroom, and most enjoyable shower we've experienced.

The team enjoyed a few last views of the glacier and surrounding mountains as we retraced our way back down valley, pausing occasionally to allow the Yak trains to pass with their important cargo that help the expeditions succeed.

We hiked for seven hours today and descended more than 3000’ back to Pheriche. Needless to say, the team is feeling good and enjoying the thicker air.

RMI Guides Casey, Hannah and Crew

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