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Posted by: Mike King, Camille Leininger, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
The Mt. Baker Coleman Deming team July 23 - 25 reached the summit today around 6:45 am. RMI Guide Mike King reported a warm night and great views north to Vancouver of the North Cascade peaks. The team returnted to Camp before noon. They will continue their descent to the trail head and conclude their program this afternoon.
Nice job team!
Posted by: Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Torres del Paine
We had a restful night at Torres Central. No discotheque last night. Our hike took us on the first part of the “O” circuit through former estancia fields used to graze sheep & cattle. The trail then wound through a nice forest with a canopy that provided some relief from the sun and intense heat, abnormal for this area. Eight miles puts us in Seron camp at a former ranch cabin. The team got out of the sun and since we are experiencing a heat wave we took refreshments down to the Paine river, “Paine” meaning blue in the language of the original inhabitants of this area. The river is a pastel green from the glacial till and a little cold for this Florida based crew. I got a few of them in the shallow river for a quick swim by setting the example, leading from the front and all. The remainder waded in to soak sore feet & knees. With the swim counting as a shower and laundry we are sitting down for some Chilean wine and cheese before dinner, quite civilized. Tomorrow we hike to Lago Dickson, hoping for some respite from the heat but if not we have a lake to plunge into.
Thanks for following along.
Posted by: Kiira Antenucci, Joey Manship, Augi Fleer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci and Team reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier. The team had a great three days of climbing. The Easton Glacier Route of Mt. Baker is perfect for the beginner looking to learn about climbing on glaciers, or the experienced climber seeking to stand atop a northwest classic.
Congratulations Team for taking on the challenge!
Congratulations to all Army hikers who have found their grit again. You made it!
Posted by: Vickie on 8/2/2022 at 2:21 pm
Posted by: James Bealer, Luke Wilhelm, David Price
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
The Soul of a Climber
The mountains hold the soul,
And light fire in the hearts of some men.
It leads them to do things,
Others don't just understand.
It's not only the summits,
Though that's what we oft speak of.
It's the journey, the effort,
And so much more that we love.
It's trekking the valleys,
That lead to the trailhead.
And the anticipation of adventures,
During the journey ahead.
It's the early morning sun,
As if it illuminates the peaks.
All through the day until sunset,
These are the beauties we seek.
We realize it will take effort,
That there will be moments of pain.
But the mountain gives more back,
It is much more of a gain.
It's the time spent with others,
Telling tales of past climbs.
And of more ventures ahead,
That excite each climber's mind.
There is time spent together,
There is tile spent alone.
But mostly it is time in the mountains,
In this place we call home.
The time comes to leave,
It invariably does.
But our hearts and souls have been nourished,
By these sacred mountains we love.
-Tim Cavanagh
Hola, Tim and the Team! We hope your lungs are cleansed and your hearts are filled in your dance with Mother Nature. We are right behind you in spirit. Love, D and I
Posted by: Dick and Irene Simpson on 2/1/2022 at 9:47 am
To our dad and his fellow mountaineers,
Your journey brings envy to our “home isolation”
but hope you’re enjoying God’s Divine Creation.
The mountains are beautiful and treacherous at best,
We hope you are eating, hydrating, and getting adequate rest.
You’ll be climbing and slogging through all sorts of weather
Just think of the camaraderie and memories you’re making together.
It is one of the best parts of these expeditions no doubt,
Along with reflection, prayer, and a few curses throughout.
We’re praying for you all and especially the “Soul of a Climber” who’s soles imprint on the trail
And look forward to you regaling us with your long mountaineer tale.
We love you, dad!
Love and God Bless,
Chris, Bo, Lillian, and Carl
Posted by: ChrisBoLillianCarl on 1/30/2022 at 8:33 pm
Yeah team!!!
Posted by: Mary Peer on 4/11/2013 at 2:34 pm
The whole team is standing on the summit of Ixta at 8:10 am central time! It was a chilly climb but the sun is shining now and it is warming up a bit. The team did an awesome job getting up here. Now we will shift our focus to a smooth descent. That's all for now. We will check in again from thicker air!
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Alex Halliday reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Alex reported windy conditions on top. The teams will descend and return to Ashford later today.
Congratulations climbers!
Posted by: Pepper Dee
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
My second mock lead on the course tackled an aesthetic, rambling three pitch climb on the Wind Tower. I had done the climb before, but had never been responsible for three other mock-climbers. I found myself doing nearly everything differently with my mock-climbers in tow--positioning my climbers out of the way of loose rock, breaking pitches up into shorter, up-and-down sections, and rigging lowers down exposed, short steps that I had always simply down-climbed. All told, a climb that had taken a mere hour and a half climbing independently took me three quite involved hours to guide.
To me, that is the part of guiding that I will always love the most--the challenge of using every trick in your toolbox to make a section of terrain as safe as you can for your climbers. My Rock Guide Course endowed me with plenty of tricks, from terrain belays to rigging rappels to rope management systems. The real excitement of the course, though, was getting experience applying these tricks in one of the most complex rock climbing areas in the country.
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
The ability to measure your gains throughout a training program is a great way to stay motivated and identify areas that you want to work on more. In college I raced on the cross-country ski team. On the team, we had several different benchmark sessions throughout our summer and fall training seasons. These sessions helped measure strength, anaerobic threshold, race speed, and endurance. While the demands of nordic ski racing are somewhat different than mountaineering, these categories still apply directly to mountaineering. If you incorporate tests into your training plan early, you’ll have a benchmark to compare each subsequent test to. With a tool to identify your progress, you’ll be amazed at the progress you will make in getting faster, stronger, and fitter!
As food for thought, a couple of the events that we used were:
A Strength Test: The test encompasses three different core exercises that isolate different muscle groups: sit-ups, push-ups, and dips. Starting with sit-ups, do as many complete sit-ups as possible within a 1-minute span, rest for 30 seconds, and then repeat. We did the same with both push-ups and dips, keeping track of the numbers. When repeating the test later in the season, you are able to track your gains in core strength.
3000-meter running test and time trials: Both allowed us to compare times over a consistent course and test aerobic thresholds. The 3000m is long enough (7.5 laps of a standard track) to attain a good idea of how you can push and maintain over an extended distance. Time trials are the same, though distance and mechanism can vary (20 kilometers on a bike or a 45 minute uphill run). Longer courses focus on aerobic capacity (endurance), while shorter events move more towards the aerobic threshold (the ability to process lactic acid and maintain aerobic respiration).
Uphill sprint test: Running uphill as hard as I could pushed me into the anaerobic zone and measured maximum performance. Alpine ski areas, a local uphill grind, or even a long set of stairs are a great place to do this test. Find a section 2-3 minutes long, duck your head, and give it all you have.
Be creative with creating your own benchmark tests! Enter a 5k race periodically, use your local stadium stairs as an anaerobic test, and create a strength test that works for you. The options are pretty limitless, and when you see how much time you’ve dropped on that uphill run, or how many more sit-ups you can do over the period, you’ll be that much more psyched to keep getting after it. As always, be careful, especially at the beginning. Training only works if it’s making you stronger so train smart and stay injury free!
_____
Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. A former collegiate nordic skier, Pete climbs and guides around the world, from the Andes to Alaska. Pete is leading an expedition on Denali's West Buttress in May. Also an avid skier, Pete has sailed and skied on several occasions through Norway's Lofoten Islands, read about the adventure on the RMI Blog.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
Posted by: Jake Beren, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
What a great climb with a great group of people. Truly appreciated our amazing guides that were flexible with the route.
Posted by: Heather on 7/26/2021 at 7:48 am
How Awesome of a challenge Jake! Great job Team! Looking forward to seeing pics and hearing about your climb
Posted by: Jodi Walny on 7/25/2021 at 6:15 pm
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