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Mt. Shuksan: Sulphide Glacier Team Summits!

The Mt. Shuksan Sulphide Glacier Team led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Dan May reached the summit on Thursday, September 22, 2022. The team had great weather, smoke free skies, and a great climbing route. With incoming rain, the team descended a day early to beat the deteriorating forecast.

Congratulations Team!

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Mt. Baker: Summit Easton Glacier!

RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci and Team reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier. The team had a great three days of climbing. The Easton Glacier Route of Mt. Baker is perfect for the beginner looking to learn about climbing on glaciers, or the experienced climber seeking to stand atop a northwest classic.

Congratulations Team for taking on the challenge! 

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Congratulations to all Army hikers who have found their grit again. You made it!

Posted by: Vickie on 8/2/2022 at 2:21 pm


SheJumps Team Reaches the Mt. Rainier Summit!

The Mt. Rainier RMI and SheJumps Climb, led by Hannah Smith, reached the summit today at 5:40am with 100% success! They have started their descent from the crater rim and will return to Basecamp later today.

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This team humbly crushed the route and completed in style!

Posted by: Number one fan on 7/13/2021 at 11:38 pm

Congrats!!! What an amazing accomplishment!!

Posted by: Kimberly Austin-Ellis on 7/12/2021 at 3:45 pm


Mt. Rainier: Windy Summit for Four Day Climbs

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Alex Halliday reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Alex reported windy conditions on top. The teams will descend and return to Ashford later today.

Congratulations climbers!

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom & Team Return to Namche

Hello again everyone.

All is still well here in the Khumbu as the team members made our way back into Namche. It was a nice day on the trail passing by climbers, trekkers, yaks, and porters all bound uphill to Everest Base Camp. We slowly made our way through the maze of traffic and enjoyed one last good view of Everest.

Tomorrow we'll be moving out early on our final leg of the journey back to Lukla. So please keep you fingers crossed we have good weather and can make our flight back to Kathmandu the following morning.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

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This is all so Awesome!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 4/2/2022 at 11:06 am


Mountaineering Training | Is Your Training Working? Using Benchmarks

The ability to measure your gains throughout a training program is a great way to stay motivated and identify areas that you want to work on more. In college I raced on the cross-country ski team. On the team, we had several different benchmark sessions throughout our summer and fall training seasons. These sessions helped measure strength, anaerobic threshold, race speed, and endurance. While the demands of nordic ski racing are somewhat different than mountaineering, these categories still apply directly to mountaineering. If you incorporate tests into your training plan early, you’ll have a benchmark to compare each subsequent test to. With a tool to identify your progress, you’ll be amazed at the progress you will make in getting faster, stronger, and fitter!   

As food for thought, a couple of the events that we used were:  

A Strength Test: The test encompasses three different core exercises that isolate different muscle groups: sit-ups, push-ups, and dips. Starting with sit-ups, do as many complete sit-ups as possible within a 1-minute span, rest for 30 seconds, and then repeat. We did the same with both push-ups and dips, keeping track of the numbers. When repeating the test later in the season, you are able to track your gains in core strength.    

3000-meter running test and time trials: Both allowed us to compare times over a consistent course and test aerobic thresholds. The 3000m is long enough (7.5 laps of a standard track) to attain a good idea of how you can push and maintain over an extended distance. Time trials are the same, though distance and mechanism can vary (20 kilometers on a bike or a 45 minute uphill run). Longer courses focus on aerobic capacity (endurance), while shorter events move more towards the aerobic threshold (the ability to process lactic acid and maintain aerobic respiration).   

Uphill sprint test: Running uphill as hard as I could pushed me into the anaerobic zone and measured maximum performance. Alpine ski areas, a local uphill grind, or even a long set of stairs are a great place to do this test. Find a section 2-3 minutes long, duck your head, and give it all you have. 

Be creative with creating your own benchmark tests!  Enter a 5k race periodically, use your local stadium stairs as an anaerobic test, and create a strength test that works for you. The options are pretty limitless, and when you see how much time you’ve dropped on that uphill run, or how many more sit-ups you can do over the period, you’ll be that much more psyched to keep getting after it. As always, be careful, especially at the beginning. Training only works if it’s making you stronger so train smart and stay injury free!

_____

Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. A former collegiate nordic skier, Pete climbs and guides around the world, from the Andes to Alaska. Pete is leading an expedition on Denali's West Buttress in May. Also an avid skier, Pete has sailed and skied on several occasions through Norway's Lofoten Islands, read about the adventure on the RMI Blog.

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Base Camp Luxuries

RMI invested with a local solar outfitter a few years back, and as you can see by the picture we are charged up! At the start of this season we used a generator to jump start the batteries, but since then its been all sun. On cloudy days we have to be a bit careful on how much power we use from the bank of six good-sized car-type batteries but usually plenty of juice. Without it, tough to send out this dispatch and even the best generators are too loud. The other photo is of one of our star players here at Base Camp, Raju, who is at the watering hole of choice for now. The staff makes lots of trips to this spot daily with five-gallon plastic jugs to keep us full of that most important beverage. As the glacier moves throughout the season, so will we and the watering hole. With all of the human impact over the years we will boil all of the drinking water. Not yet there with the solar so we do use kerosene for cooking here at Base Camp. We have a most wonderful on-demand gas-powered shower tent that we try and not overuse, which you can imagine on a warm day is so fantastic it is hard to convey. A bit different nowadays since my first trip to Everest in 1990. It was 72 days between showers. Hey, we did what we could, but that first shower was a good one! Dave Hahn is at Camp 1 and a link to his audio dispatch is below. That's all for today from RMI's Everest Expedition. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


Dave Hahn checks in from Camp 1

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Be following this blog Dave.  Me Knee’s doing better than the other one now.  My heart a bit better as well, at a big conference with lots of loving friends.  And with you on your hill. Be safe & warm Bro. See you when you get home.

Posted by: Carl Gilmore on 4/26/2012 at 2:52 am


Carstensz Pyramid: Team Checks in after Their Hike

Today our team completed a 10 hour hike through beautiful marshland. We are getting into an area with limestone masses, passing by caves in the limestone cliffs. Quite spectacular! Today's hike was the first we've had in the rain. But despite the wet conditions, everyone is in high spirits and doing very well. RMI Guide Alex Van Steen

On The Map

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Houston`s climate is not that bad after all. Hope you all will keep up the good spirit and enjoy the reward of being able to do what you are doing.What an experience it is. I am curious to see some pictures after you are all back in good health.
Pap en Mam

Posted by: Richard van Steen on 7/2/2012 at 6:26 am

Alex, Mark and team, Amakane!Mark your blog reminds of a poem my Mom wrote “Oh give me a mountain to climb! Im leaving the jungle trail, the steamy swamps and the lowlands, give me a mountain to scale. I’ve been cut by the jungle grasses, I faint in the tropical heat, to plow through the mire is exhausting the mud has made heavy my feet….” You will soon be wondering at the towering crags above you, gasping at the vast unclimbed faces!  Hey that wall of roots is pretty wild, eh? 5.8 climbing in the jungle! Ka noae!

Posted by: amy on 7/2/2012 at 2:29 am


Mt. Baker: King & Team Summit, Return to Camp

The Mt. Baker Coleman Deming team July 23 - 25 reached the summit today around 6:45 am.  RMI Guide Mike King reported a warm night and great views north to Vancouver of the North Cascade peaks.  The team returnted to Camp before noon.  They will continue their descent to the trail head and conclude their program this afternoon.

Nice job team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What a great climb with a great group of people. Truly appreciated our amazing guides that were flexible with the route.

Posted by: Heather on 7/26/2021 at 7:48 am

How Awesome of a challenge Jake! Great job Team!  Looking forward to seeing pics and hearing about your climb

Posted by: Jodi Walny on 7/25/2021 at 6:15 pm


Cotopaxi Express: Acclimatization Hike in the Illinizas

Hello everybody back home, this is Casey Grom checking in from the Cotopaxi Express Ascent. Today we left the busy city of Quito and traded in for a little rustic countryside visit. We did a short acclimatization hike on the Illinizas where we reached just over 15,500’. Everybody did fantastic and we even got to use our gore-tex jackets with fresh snow falling on us today. We have since descended and have retreated to the Hacienda Chilcabamba where we have just finished a delicious meal and great conversation. Everyone seems to be doing really well and everyone's relaxing right now inside. We are looking forward to some clear skies tomorrow and a nice view of Cotopaxi. That's all for now and we will check in again tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom


RMI Guide Casey Grom checks in from Ecuador.

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Great job guys! I wish I were there to celebrate with you. It was great to meet all the guys on the climb & Casey & Adam.

Posted by: Rejan on 12/16/2011 at 8:25 am

GO BILLY!!!  So proud of you!  We will be praying for you and your team that you all may have a SAFE expedition!!!

Posted by: The Terry's on 12/16/2011 at 8:19 am

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