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Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Kiira Antenucci, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,131'
RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo and team had a successful climb of Mt. Shuksan yesterday. After a hazy morning wake-up call, the team ascended the Sulphide glacier and enjoyed some Class 4 scrambling on the summit pyramid before topping out yesterday. The team has made it back to the trailhead and team members are on their way home.
Nice work team!
Posted by: Pepper Dee, James Bealer, Keeley Rideout, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
RMI Guides Pepper Dee & James Bealer led their teams of Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier climbers to the summit this morning. All team members climbed strong and reached the summit! The teams will return to camp for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to the trail head and conclude their Mt. Baker adventure.
Way to go team!
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 21,300'
Dave Hahn calls in from Everest Advanced Basecamp.
On The Map
Happy Birthday Mark!
Posted by: Kent Tucker on 5/21/2013 at 9:46 am
such hard news to hear. may you lead your team safely to the summit and back to camp. wishing you well.
best regards,
michelle
Posted by: michelle on 5/20/2013 at 5:48 pm
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Henry Coppolillo, Seth Burns, Jess Wedel
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,000'
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RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team have returned from the mountain. The team spent three nights on the mountain and were able to do a lot of great training. The reached 11,000' before deciding to turn around due to poor route conditions and high avalanche danger. The team descended to Paradise and is back at Rainier BaseCamp to celebrate their accomplishment and close down their program.
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Mark, Your updates are very insightful and amusing. Sounds as if you are great at your job and enjoy it. Malamo Pono… Susie
Posted by: Susie Ellison on 4/24/2011 at 9:12 am
Happy birthday uncle Bill! Is it hard going with out menchi’s for 1 month? Hope to see you soon!
Posted by: sophie on 4/24/2011 at 8:15 am
Posted by: Bryan Mazaika, Jack Delaney, Emma Lyddan, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier at 10:15 am today. The high winds from yesterday and overnight calmed in the early hours, it was cold, so the team waited for the temperatures to warm before starting their summit attempt. The waiting paid off and the team had a clear beautiful summit day via the Emmons Glacier. They will spend the last night on the mountain training, before returning to Ashford Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Mike King
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
As climbers we need to travel safely through complex and hazardous terrain to reach the day’s objective and ultimately return to the car so that we can share our mountain experiences. As Guides we have 3 specific expectations of the people we rope up with:
- Keep the pace of the guide
- Climb in balance
- Take care of yourself at breaks
Climbing in balance will help you manage the other two expectations. By climbing in balance you will move through the mountains more efficiently and be less fatigued so that you can re-fuel and manage your layering at the breaks. Balance can be developed and improved through a variety of training regimens, and incorporating agility training is a great way to improve your balance while climbing.
Wikipedia defines agility as
- the ability to change the body's position efficiently and requires the integration of isolated movement skills using a combination of balance, coordination, speed, reflexes, strength, and endurance. Agility is the ability to change the direction of the body in an efficient and effective manner and to achieve this requires a combination of:
- • balance – the ability to maintain equilibrium when stationary or moving (i.e. not to fall over) through the coordinated actions of our sensory functions
- • static balance – the ability to retain the center of mass above the base of support in a stationary position;
- • dynamic balance – the ability to maintain balance with body movement; speed - the ability to move all or part of the body quickly; strength - the ability of a muscle or muscle group to overcome a resistance; and lastly,
- • co-ordination – the ability to control the movement of the body in co-operation with the body's sensory functions.
Mt. Rainier’s Disappointment Cleaver route tests a climber’s agility while climbing the rock ridge that divides the Ingraham and Emmons glaciers, aptly called the Disappointment Cleaver. In the spring months the route up the Cleaver is comprised of steep snow and by mid-summer is entirely rock. Regardless of the conditions, this section of the climb is more physically taxing for climbers who haven’t developed solid agility skills, as the Cleaver involves large steps, difficult footwork on loose snow or scree and 1,200 feet of elevation gain, so the ability to climb it in balance and as efficiently as possible is a must.
How to train agility:
Get off the pavement! Much of your balance and agility is achieved by small stabilizer muscles in your feet, ankles, knees, hips, and core. Running over roots, rocks, and uneven terrain will help you develop your agility by causing these muscles to fire more often and in different combinations as they adapt to the terrain changes of each step. Cross-country and alpine skiing, hiking, and yoga can all help to build these same stabilizer muscles and can be a tool if running isn’t possible for you. Off-road activities also help train you to look ahead to anticipate the irregularities of the trail. This will aid you when you climb so that you focus on what is ahead of you and don't get stuck on what is directly at your feet.
An agility ladder is a great tool for home workouts and will help your dynamic balance and coordination. If you do not want to purchase a ladder, draw one with sidewalk chalk on your driveway. There are a multitude of potential exercises you can use with a ladder, to build quick footwork, reflexes, and agility. Start with these and build your repertoire as you see fit!
Remember, if you're not having some fun while training then you will likely find an excuse to just go through the motions or not train. Get after it and I look forward to seeing you out in the hills!
Useful agility ladder drills: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxjC-0yuSHM
_____
Mike King is a senior guide with RMI Expeditions and a Wilderness Medicine Instructor for WMI of NOLS. Mike guides around the world for RMI. Some of his favorites are upcoming trips to Machu Picchu, Aconcagua, and Mexico's Volcanoes.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
Rich - We totally agree. Thanks adding even more context to agility training!
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer (Guide) on 2/22/2019 at 12:05 pm
I find training agility to be an excellent adjunct to the monotony of steady aerobic training. With the right parameters, it can be used as aerobic or interval training. In addition, breaking down the components used in developing agility such as the feet, knees, hips and trunk can greatly enhance the results. For example, if the feet are limited in pronation or supination, it can greatly limit the strength capabilities of the muscles of the knees, hips and trunk. When both feet have optimal strength in all motions, then power increases and fatigue decreases. Training to climb mountains is challenging, but it leads to great rewards when the body is in fantastic condition.
Posted by: Rich Rife on 2/21/2019 at 11:59 am
Posted by: Mike Walter
Categories: Mount Rainier
Hi Mike, Looks like your team is enjoying a lot more snow than last years team. I hope that you don,t have any long stays anywhere on denali. Good-luck to all of you. Ken Young “Denali team 2011”
Posted by: Ken Young on 5/20/2012 at 1:38 pm
Right on, looking forward to doing this climb next year.
Posted by: Andre on 7/25/2021 at 11:06 am
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