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RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls from 26,000 on Mt. Everest.
On The Map
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Camp 2.
On The Map
I’ll be thinking about you guys, be safe.
Posted by: Cesar Armestar on 5/22/2012 at 9:02 am
Dave and Melissa:
Just heard the news of crowding in the death zone and subsequent loss of life this past weekend. So glad to read the blog and to be assured all is well with you both. Have fun and be safe. Can’t wait to read about your successful return.
Cheers,
Jo
Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 5/22/2012 at 8:06 am
Today the weather redeemed itself with perfect conditions on Cotopaxi. 100% of the team reached the summit in calm conditions just after sunrise. It could not have been a nicer day. We now can all go home having summited a big mountain and with a story to tell from Cayambe.
A huge shoutout to this team for embracing the team aspect of climbing. All members supported another member at some point during both of the climbs. It was impressive to see the group show genuine care towards people who were strangers just days earlier. On numerous occasions we spent two hours or more at a meal sharing stories, laughing and learning about each other.
Also a shoutout to our Ecuadorian guides who continue to show their professionalism in the mountains, this expedition would not be possible without their local knowledge and high level of skill.
Finally, thanks to friends and family who have been following along with this trip. It’s encouraging to know you’re out there supporting us and we always enjoy getting a comment from Farmer Dave!
Congrats to You Dustin and all the Team!!! I love the pictures from a sunny summit!! Now I know what it looks like without snow and ice fog!! :) I agree it is so cool how complete strangers become best of friends in a day or so when in the mountains!!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 12/11/2021 at 3:13 am
I am a gringo who lives in Ecuador… I am looking just for a guide for Chimborazo the weekend of Jan 22-23… Any recommendations on a good local?
Posted by: Spencer Chiaro on 12/10/2021 at 1:32 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
The advice “show up in the best shape of your life” can mean very different things for different people. People from all sorts of different backgrounds come to Mt. Rainier for an adventure and they can all have great success, but it helps to know what you are training for. For an Ironman triathlete, perhaps it isn’t so much about showing up in the best shape of their life, but in the right shape: the physical demands of mountaineering can be very different than those of a triathlon. For someone venturing into the mountains for the first time, building overall aerobic fitness and core strength may be the focus.
Numbers that help to understand the climb:
17,982’ (5480m) of total elevation gain and loss
21 hours on our feet
45-55 lbs of weight potentially in your pack (pack weights do decrease for summit day)
30,000+ steps up and down (no one has ever actually counted them all for us)
2/3 roughly the amount of oxygen available to us at the summit versus sea level.
36 hours in which to do all this (*four day summit climb)
First off, aerobic fitness: For most, summit day on Mt. Rainier will be far and away the longest period of sustained exertion that they have ever done. A typical summit day involves 15 to 16 hours on our feet; as a general guideline that includes an hour of packing and prep, 10 hours of climbing to the summit and back to Camp Muir, an hour of packing and recovery at Muir, and 3 more hours down the Muir Snowfield. Even though the overall pace of our movement is slow, the sheer amount of time on our feet and moving adds up to be exhausting. Now consider that the previous day, the team spent 5 or 6 hours climbing to Camp Muir, and then got maybe 6 hours of somewhat fitful sleep prior to waking for the summit push. Having a deep aerobic base is the only way to be able to push through all these hours, and consequently, the bulk of your training should focus on this realm.
Recovery from anaerobic spurts: While 99.5% of the climb is accomplished in that zone of aerobic endurance, there are small sections of increased effort. It may be just a handful of tricky steps through a boulder jumble on Disappointment Cleaver, or a more sustained section of ice climbing through a tricky, steep section on the Kautz Ice Chute. At altitude, since we are breathing in less oxygen, these increases in effort can quickly become anaerobic, and the ability to recover mid-effort from these bursts is essential. Interval training helps to increase your body’s anaerobic threshold (the level of exertion at which you begin to create large amounts of lactic acid) and also builds your body’s ability to metabolize that lactic acid, effectively recovering. This way, though a few tricky steps may leave you feeling breathless or winded, you are able to recover in a matter of moments with a few deep breathes and fall right back into your rhythm.
Strength: While many focus on overall leg strength — consider that we will essentially be doing shallow squats all the way to the summit — and it is important, core strength and balance are perhaps even more important and more often overlooked. Throughout the climb you will be carrying a pack of varying weight. Your core muscles are responsible for helping to manage a load that is trying to pull you over backwards, keeping it stable and your posture in a position for efficient movement, and a base of core strength allows you to accomplish the more athletic moves that steeper climbing requires. While your core is doing the work to deal with your pack and much of your balance, the small muscles of your ankles and lower legs have to deal with ever-changing terrain: no step is the same, and your ankles and knees have adapt to the changes in slope and pitch to allow the rest of your body to remain in balance. Overall strength is still important, but strength exercises that incorporate an element of balance and coordination or involve your core will pay huge dividends once you find yourself on uneven terrain.
As you build your training plan, take these elements into account, and assess where you already stand. If you come from a strong endurance background, continue with that, but place more of your focus on recovery and core strength. If endurance sports are new to you, start here, focusing on building your base (as that really is the foundation of the rest). Most of all, have confidence that if you follow your plan, your will show up ready for the adventure of a lifetime!
_____
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
Posted by: Bryan Mazaika, Jack Delaney, Emma Lyddan, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier at 10:15 am today. The high winds from yesterday and overnight calmed in the early hours, it was cold, so the team waited for the temperatures to warm before starting their summit attempt. The waiting paid off and the team had a clear beautiful summit day via the Emmons Glacier. They will spend the last night on the mountain training, before returning to Ashford Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Pepper Dee, James Bealer, Keeley Rideout, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
RMI Guides Pepper Dee & James Bealer led their teams of Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier climbers to the summit this morning. All team members climbed strong and reached the summit! The teams will return to camp for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to the trail head and conclude their Mt. Baker adventure.
Way to go team!
Right on, looking forward to doing this climb next year.
Posted by: Andre on 7/25/2021 at 11:06 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Guide News
The next morning we woke up to partly cloudy skies and the realization that a 44-foot sailboat is a tight space for ski gear, sailing gear, and eight people. After organizing our gear in waves, we left the boat with skis on our packs and walked toward a favorite local ski touring peak. Successfully navigating the Svolvaer neighborhoods, we finally reached snow. With climbing skins on our skis we began our ascent up the south side of a peak named Blåtind. Partway up the mountain, it began to rain and visibility dwindled. Too excited to turn back on our first day of ski touring, we decided to continue. A few minutes after reaching the saddle on Blåtind the sun came out and we focused our attention on a ski line on east side of the peak. The conditions were spring corn snow. After a close to 2,000’ descent we put our skins back on and toured along the water to the nearest road where we hailed a taxi back to the sailboat.
The following morning we set sail to the Trollfjord. The Trollfjord is an area accessible to skiers only by boat. With our sails up and Katie Van Deventer at the helm, we sailed to the entrance of the Trollfjord - a dauntingly narrow waterway surrounded by steep walls. We docked amid howling winds and a mix of rain and snow. Reaching the TrollfjordHyatta, a cabin in the Norweigan Hut System, would have to wait until the next day.
We woke to improved weather and loaded our ski gear and a night’s worth of food onto the dock. The boat sailed away promising to return the following afternoon and we spent the morning skinning to the TrollfjordHyatta. The hut turned out to be a small majestic wooden cabin surrounded by peaks in every direction. Inspired by the mountains around us, we headed out to ski Peak 975. We had great views of our climb ahead and discussed our route and ski options. After an hour the terrain became too steep to skin. With skis on our packs, and clouds rolling in, we reached the top of Peak 975. Since the light was flat we used our bootpack to guide us as we skied down the same route we ascended. The visibility improved and we were reminded of the natural beauty of the Trollfjord. Taking advantage of the good weather we added a few laps to finish our day on a smaller peak just above the cabin. From there we could see the dramatic entrance to the Trollfjord and the unlimited ski options for the following day. The night in the hut was filled with wine, laughs, and Ludo, a Norweigan board game. In the morning we were able to get a few runs in on some steep north facing chutes before returning to dock where we met the boat.
As we sailed away, inspired by the endless quantity of peaks around us, we discussed the multitude of ski options for the day and remainder of the trip. The next few days were unlike any trip I have known. The terrain and sailboat allowed for ultimate flexibility. If the weather was good, we would ski; if the weather was marginal, we would set sail waiting for the conditions to change. Once we decided upon a peak the question then became: how do we get to shore?
This was often time and energy consuming. We would either dock the boat or, if that wasn’t an option, we would get ashore via dinghy. If we went by dinghy Frederik, our captain, shuttled us and our gear ashore while Iselin, the assistant captain, handled the sailboat. From the dock or shore we would skin or walk a few miles to a skiable peak, climb and ski it, and make our way back to the boat. This sometimes meant walking, other times we were able to ski within a few hundred meters of the boat. Other times it meant taking a cab to where the boat was docked. Each day was a new adventure with a new set of options.
As the days passed, the weather improved and we finally had the perfect Norweigan ski descent on the last day of the trip. For the first time during our adventure we woke up to bluebird skies and decided to ski a peak called Storgalten. Upon reaching the top of the peak could see mountains, water, and our sailboat. Thrilled with the descent, Pete, Katie and Magnus celebrated it with a plunge into the fjord. We then set sail back to Harstad, our final destination, with Storgalten still in view. Weeks later, I’m still amazed by the diversity and accessibility of the terrain found in the Lofoten Islands. I have been lucky enough to ski and climb in mountains all over this world and this trip was truly unique. What made it all the more special to me was being able to share it with my father and a group of close friends that got along seamlessly on a 44-foot sailboat for seven days.
Looks awesome!! Such I tough life you guys have!!
Posted by: Dan Brockway on 6/12/2013 at 10:28 am
This. Looks. Amazing.
Posted by: Sarah on 6/11/2013 at 10:36 am
Way to go, team! Thinking of you all the time up at Camp 2 and beyond.
Saw Katie’s second LAX game against Holy Innocents on a gorgeous Saturday. She is such a trooper and it was a tough loss. Have to catch more games in the coming weeks.
Be safe and take our love with you.
Posted by: Mom / Grandma on 5/2/2011 at 6:52 am
News from the home front I thought you would want to hear….. Osama bin Laden has been killed by US forces in Pakistan. They have just announced tonight at 10:30 PM. Stay safe!!!!!! xxoo Stacey
Posted by: Stacey on 5/1/2011 at 8:29 pm
Posted by: James Bealer, Abby Westling, George Hedreen, Brian Walters
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
RMI Guides Abby Westling, James Bealer, and teams stood atop Mt. Baker yesterday. After waiting out the rain all night, they departed camp in the morning and enjoyed the daylight during their ascent. The teams made it back to camp yesterday evening to enjoy dinner and some well-deserved rest. They will walk out of camp today.
Godspeed to you and your team Dave! See you soon back in Taos.
Posted by: Ryan Fellows on 5/25/2012 at 2:51 pm
Hit the top and then get back down safely! Have a great climb.
Posted by: Curtis Brandt on 5/25/2012 at 11:33 am
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