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Ecuador Volcanoes: Knoff & Team Thwarted By Winds on Cayambe

Last night as we prepared for our summit attempt, we could not get American football off of our minds. With Dustin and a couple others praying for a Seahawks win and myself along with all my Ecuadorian recruits pulling for the Packers, the howling winds, soaking mist and ominous cloud cap almost seemed to take a back seat. I say this because it was the mind frame I was in but in reality the weather was front and center. When we arrived in Ecuador, I gloated on our fortune of grand vistas and warm temperatures, but we all know how quickly things can change. And change they did.

With a 6:00 pm dinner and 7:00 pm lights out, we never learned the score but went to bed wondering. This is the main reason I didn’t sleep a single minute but my 11:00 pm alarm showed up unwelcomed anyway. As I ventured outside to inspect the winds, I was immediately greeted with a soaking mist ramming into me at 25 mph. This did not inspire me so I held off waking the group up for another hour thinking things might improve enough to warrant going up. And to my surprise it did! At 1:00 am the rain had turned to snow which made the prospect of climbing a bit more bearable, but the wind still screamed as it whistled through the Cayambe Refugio.

At 2:00 am five out of our eight climbers set off for what would be an uncertain ascent. The other three climbers stayed behind because of lingering chest illnesses they felt would improve with rest over cold, windy, snowy climbing.

It only took 15 minutes or so before our local guides began to express concern about ice covered rock and strong winds. We made the decision to go as high as we safely could, which led us through some steep rock steps and a sandy traverse back towards the glacier, which we visited a mere twelve hours previously. It was on this traverse we got the full taste of the wind’s furry. I know how strong a wind gust needs to be to blow me around and this giant fan was blowing at a constant, strong enough to have me leaning into it looking like Michael Jackson in mid performance, I’m guessing a steady 50 mph.

Shortly after passing this exposed spot it was clear our shot at the top was going to be thwarted. It wasn’t cold and the snow had even subsided a bit but the wind, through its howls, made the decision for us, we needed to turn around. This is never an easy decision to make but in the end it was the right one. Back at the hut we took a little cat nap and then woke to horrible instant coffee and some rope practice. We then packed up and headed out, back to the warmth of 8,000 feet and the fantastic burgers of Cafe LA Vaca, my favorite lunch place.

Now we are settled into one of the oldest haciendas in the country enjoying internet, a laundry service and hot showers. Our failure to reach the summit of Cayambe has only fueled the fire to get to Cotopaxi, also known as the jewel of Ecuador, tomorrow. We will keep you updated as we prepare for this 19,400' snow cone. Thanks for following.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Adam,
You might recall that we got blown off Cayambe the year I was with you as well!

Posted by: Dusty Dodson on 1/13/2020 at 9:42 pm

Sorry to hear the wind kept you from summiting. But glad to hear all are well and getting psyched for Cotopaxi. Again, wishing to all the very best!
-jill

Posted by: Jill Klores on 1/13/2020 at 8:54 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Gorum & Team Excited to be on the Mountain

The team is officially on the mountain! We’re living our best lives, as they say, up here at 12,600 feet. We took advantage of a series of gondolas to get us here, but we did have to haul our duffels the last 100 feet to our doorsteps. Working smarter, not harder. We took a short break after moving in, and then went for an exploratory jaunt above camp. After we walked as far as we felt like walking, we turned around. We did spend some time practicing our footwork and balance on steeper snow. Some team members took to boot skiing like they were born for it. Others...not. Ultimately we all found our style, and descended with class and grace back to the huts in time for lunch. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing, mingling with other climbers, people watching, and story telling. Now the sun has set, and there’s no reason to be outside anymore, so we’re going to bed. We’ll check in tomorrow. RMI Guide JM Gorum

On The Map

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Vinson Massif: Mallory & Team Move to Low Camp

We unanimously agreed that the temperatures were a bit warmer than the night prior and we all slept much more warmly, although we did find out in the morning that the temps were hovering around -18F when we crawled out of the tents around 9am this morning. Despite the cold bite to the air, the skies had cleared overnight and we set about breaking down camp and preparing to move to Camp 1 (known as "Low Camp" on Vinson). We hit the trail midday and climbed back up the Branscomb Glacier, navigating the first crevasse field again with ease, crossing the long basin above, and reaching our cached gear by late afternoon. The landscape, under clear skies this time, were completely different and we were able to soak in the surroundings: the bulging seracs and icecliffs of the Branscomb to our left and the towering rock and ice faces of Vinson's main Massif directly in front of us. After reaching our cached gear we transferred the loads from yesterday into the sleds we were dragging behind us and set off toward Low Camp. We made a long arcing turn from east to north facing around a second crevasse field and then set off across the upper stretches of the Branscomb, walking along the base of Vinson's towering walls stretching 3,000-4,000' above us. The glacier was an undulating plateau that felt like a false flat - the perspective lent itself to thinking we were traveling along flat ground but in reality we climbed another 800' over several miles. The constant backward tug of our sleds was a good reminder of why we were working so hard hauling our heavy loads. By early evening, with the sun still high in the sky, we reached Low Camp and set about establishing camp. Whatever chills we felt from the occasional breeze was quickly chased away by the hard work of shoveling out a tent platform and a place to cook in the thick wind packed snow. We needed saws to hack through the dense snow and had to wield our avalanche shovels with care for fear of bending or snapping the blades. Despite the firm snow, within a few hours we were settled comfortably into camp and enjoying a warm meal. It's now half past midnight and the sun is still high above the horizon, traveling from west to east now. We are crawling into the tent eager for a good night's rest after the long climb with all of our gear but very happy to be up here and staring up at the more exciting climbing above us. RMI Guide Linden Mallory and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Se tenir au chaud… d’accord?

Posted by: M. Homme on 11/29/2014 at 6:04 pm

Cool Stuff! (literally and figuratively)Jon, 65 F in Tuscaloosa today…
Roll Tide!

Posted by: Tom on 11/29/2014 at 9:57 am


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Summit!

Casey Grom and his Mt. Elbrus team reached the summit! Everyone is down safe and they will check in later today. RMI Guide Casey Grom

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow. Looks like a clear sky and beautiful weather. Good for you. Congratulations!

Posted by: Fernando de Aragon on 8/2/2014 at 6:33 pm

Congratulations !!! Great summit picture. Thanks to the guides for everything.  Enjoy your. success.

Posted by: Josie on 8/2/2014 at 9:41 am


McKinley Expedition: Walter and Team Move to 11,200’

May 10, 10:50 pm PT Well, the weather continues to treat us well up here on the Kahiltna Glacier. We moved from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (11,200') in beautiful, sunny weather; a light breeze kept us from over heating as we climbed up towards Kahiltna Pass. Once at camp we spent a few hours digging in and establishing a comfortable living situation. A well-earned dinner of quesadillas with fresh vegetables filled our stomachs before we crawled into our sleeping bags for the evening. The weather forecast remains good, and tomorrow we will go down to 9500' to make a "back carry" and retrieve the extra equipment we left there in order to make our loads more manageable for the journey to camp 3. We'll be in touch again tomorrow. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Climb Strong!  We are all behind you from Tampa.  I am reading the blog to the girls for a bed time story so please through some princess stories in there.

Love,

Lennox

Posted by: Ken Lennox on 5/12/2014 at 5:15 am

Dad (Bob Strode),

Coming home from dinner to a mother’s day message from Camp 3 on Denali made my night.  And may have almost made me cry, but we’ll blame pregnancy hormones for that.

Hope the weather stays so fabulous!  Keep on staying strong!  We all are sending good vibes and love from Ohio!

Love,
Mandy

Posted by: MandyS on 5/11/2014 at 4:39 pm


Kilimanjaro: Martin & Team enjoy the Ngorongoro Crater

Hello from Plantation Lodge, We spent the whole day game viewing in Ngorongoro Crater, and it was certainly a highlight for all. The crater itself is massive, and because of the high slopes surrounding the crater and the year round water supply, it is home of about 25,000 resident animals. Needless to say, we added quite a few animals to our list that we started yesterday, including the black rhino. There are only 12 left in this park, and we saw three of them. Hippos, lions, elephants, Cape buffalo, zebras, hyenas, jackals, warthogs, and too many bird species to name, were seen throughout the day. Once we had our fill of game viewing, we ascending up out of the crater, and went to visit a Maasai village. We were given a tour of the boma and learned all about their simple way of life. It's pretty amazing that they can continue to live in a traditional way despite all the outside pressures to change into the mainstream culture of Tanzania. Tomorrow we head out for our last and final park - Tarangire. We still have to see a leopard in order to say that we saw the Big 5. We'll see what the day has in store for us. Best regards, RMI Guide Jeff Martin & Team
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Hello fellow climbers!  I am glad to see that you are enjoying the continuation of your trip. Made it back to California without hassle. Helped by red wine and sleeping pill. My last day at The Dik Dik was a little lonely since I appeared to be the only guest there and my plane was not until 950pm that night. They tried to feed me a lot and at some point I had to say no.  Also if you want to buy souvenirs I would recommend doing it while on safari, because the airport shops seemed to be lacking somewhat in authenticity (although not too bad). Interestingly, while waiting for my plane, there were 3 power failures in the terminal.  Fortunately, the computers and runway lights seemed to be on a different circuit, so Hakuna Matata!  Here is the latest Bieber update:  http://celebrity.yahoo.com/blogs/celeb-news/justin-bieber—extremely-abusive—to-flight-attendant—has-pot-party-at-10-000-ft-184625636.html
Finally, something else I wanted to share with you. When I arrived back at the Dik Dik after the climb, I received a series of text messages informing me that my mother had passed away. She was 82 years old and was in declining health, but her death was not expected. She died on January 29, only a few days into our trek. Although I could have been informed of this, my father was absolutely insistent that I not be told until after I had summited (I guess he had more confidence in my abilities than I had myself). I did not want to mention this at our celebratory dinner since it would detract too much from our overall festive mood. Nonetheless,  after having spent over a week with all of you and getting to know you, I think I can tell you now. So after a 36 hour turnover time, I will be on an airplane to Florida to visit with my father for awhile.
I look forward to seeing and sharing all of our pictures. It was a pleasure meeting all of you. I think our overall comradeship, as well as Jeff’s high degree of leadership and professionalism is what allowed us to be successful.
I wish you all the best.
Robert

Posted by: Robert on 2/6/2014 at 12:24 pm


Aconcagua: Nugent and Team back in Mendoza

Thanks to everyone that have followed along... The team is back in Mendoza and enjoying some of the finer things in life: food, wine, sunshine, hanging by the pool, etc. We had a great team dinner last night and are now hanging out and lazing around while we wait for our flights back to the states and Canada. Despite not getting the summit we had a ton of fun and a hell of an adventure. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank the group for being fun, hard-working, and determined. 'til next year, RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Walter Hailes and Katrina Bolemsma
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Hi—

We’ve loved following your journey, team. Thank you for sharing it : )

Posted by: Rocky the climbing pup (and Kendra) on 1/22/2014 at 6:46 pm


Aconcagua: Beren & Team Relax at Base Camp

Buenos Dias from Plaza Argentina! Today the team is enjoying a well earned rest day after long stretches of travel and three big days of walking. After breakfast we took a leisurely stroll to get the blood flowing and had a soup for lunch. Now mid siesta, we will spend the afternoon packing for our carry to Camp One tomorrow and going through our cursory check with the Base Camp doctors. It's definitely another hot one and we may be in for an early carry tomorrow to try and beat some of the heat. Hope everyone is doing well back home! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Well since I’m clueless about mountain climbing I assumed you be climbing all the time and now I see walking and hiking are part of the adventure…and heat! Cool…well I mean hot. Have fun be safe; we’re all looking forward to hearing about this adventure, Bill. Breakfast Club via Dav’ne

Posted by: Dav'ne Stahley on 12/27/2013 at 9:20 am

Great to hear your voice.  I keep reading of 100-degree weather in Buenes Aires—surely, it can’t be that hot up above!?!  Power on, team.

Posted by: nsb on 12/27/2013 at 8:21 am


Mt. Kilimanjaro: Justman & Team Reach High Camp

Here we go! Our team is set at 15,000 feet at Barafu Camp on Kilimanjaro. Everyone is getting excited for a great summit day. The prediction is for sunny and clear skies. So it's down to business as usual here in camp. We are recovering with hot drinks and a great lunch prepared by our Camp Chef. It is at this point that all our physical preparation pays off. However, as I told my team, at a certain altitude the physical shuts off and it turns all mental. You have to stay positive and have the strength to overcome adversity to summit the highest mountains in the world. And Kilimanjaro is no different. Wish us luck! RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

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Good luck to you all! You guys are amazing! Dom and Kalani we are all cheering for you here in sunny Florida!

Posted by: Bill and janella on 8/4/2013 at 7:57 am

Good luck everyone!! We are excited for you all! Dom and Kalani we are all cheering for you here in sunny Florida!!

Posted by: Janella and bill Raymond on 8/4/2013 at 7:52 am


Cotopaxi Express: Seth & Team Visit the Sights in Quito

Greetings from Ecuador. Today was the first official day of our trip and marked the first time that the entire team came together. We had breakfast and a team meeting a the hotel before heading out for a tour of Quito with a local for guide. We began the tour by taking a trip to the Equator where we were able to stand in both the northern and southern hemispheres simultaneously. After that we had an excellent lunch of Ecuadorian food cooked on a Paila or large metal fry pan. Our dessert was a kind of ice-cream that is also made in the Paila. In the afternoon we visited several sites in the colonial part of the city including the Basilica and the President's Palace. The weather today was very pleasant with clear skies in the morning and partly cloudy skies in the afternoon. All in all it was a great start to the trip. Tomorrow we plan to head up to the Pichincha volcano for our first acclimatization hike. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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