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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Carry to High Camp

We knew it was going to be a cold morning here at Low Camp, the sun doesn't make it around the mountain until 11:15 AM, but it was still somewhat shockingly cold. True, we are in 24-hour daylight, but any shadow reminds you very quickly what the actual air temperature is. We ate breakfast and put our crampons on for a day of carrying loads as we warmed up in the sun. Before too long, we'd begun the fixed rope section of climbing on the way to high camp. This section of steep and continuously firm snow meant that the day would be about vertical gain and not a great deal about distance covered. It took six hours to make it the 3,500 ft to high camp, which sits at 12,500 ft. Since it was perfect, cloudless weather, we could see forever as we got higher. But what we could see was ice, ice and more ice. Our timing was perfect, pulling into high camp just as Linden Mallory and his small team were getting there after their summit. Todd Passey, ALE's guide, was in camp with his team as well and very generously shared cups of hot water with the gang. We cached food and fuel there and then got moving back toward Low Camp, which we reached at 11 PM. It was a big day, finished off with a midnight supper in the POSH tent. Our climbers were excited for the new vistas, but also for the great sense of accomplishment in getting such a tough day under our belts. We'll rest tomorrow, and hope to move up the following day. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go!  I’m glad the climb is going so well.

Posted by: Peggy Halstead on 12/2/2014 at 9:09 pm

Proud of you guys - Tom, Haldis, and Chris!!!  Have fun tomorrow reaching your goal and enjoying the views.  Look forward to hearing all about it when you get back.

Posted by: Keith on 12/2/2014 at 3:52 pm


Mt. Rainier: Intro to Ski Mountaineering is Underway

Hello from 6200'! We spent the day in Ashford yesterday organizing gear and getting our ski kits dialed in. The road to Paradise was delayed in opening due to the 13" of new snow overnight! We kept ourselves busy this morning tour planning and exercising our map and compass skills, while enjoying coffee and patiently waiting for the plows to finish their job. The late arrival was worth it, and we made good time to our campsite here in the Upper slopes of the Paradise Valley. After building a bomber camp we went out for a cocktail hour ski back down the valley a few hundred feet. We are all cozy here in camp and looking forward to clear skies and more training tomorrow! Cheers, RMI Guides Solveig Waterfall, Bryan Hendrick, and the team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Great photos, Solveig. Looks like great fun: Maybe even for our age group. The snow season is about over here.
Cheers, Joe

Posted by: joe Griffith on 4/1/2014 at 7:06 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Camped at Pampa de Las Lenas

Hello folks! It's JJ and the Aconcagua Team reporting live from Pampa de Las Lenas at 9,000 feet. It's phenomenal to finally hit the trail with the team. And what a team it is! We have brothers and sisters, old climbing buddies and now new friends. We had a hot and blistery day trekking in the heat. Sunscreen and lip balm was in full effect. However now it is cloudy and we received a few drops of rain, which we welcomed with open arms. The guides are busy chopping fresh vegetables that we are going to grill along with a big slab of beef. It's one of my favorite things...hanging out with the cowboys and the team. The cowboys like it when you ask questions and it's interesting to learn about their lifestyle. They work hard for it and it's nice to enjoy a great evening of food and their favorite drink...orange Tang. RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome photo!  Great job, dad (Lew Smith)!  Best of luck to you and the team!  Climb smart, and climb on!

Love you!

Kyle

Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/17/2014 at 8:43 am

Hey Denise, This is so cool! I love seeing your progress. Yahoo! Be Safe! Have the best time. Make snow angel for me when you get to the fluffy white stuff!
Sputter Dog says Hey!

Posted by: Mary Fox on 1/15/2014 at 9:22 am


Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Completes Their Training on the Mountain

The Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir led by Casey Grom and JJ Justman were able to safely climb to the top of Cathedral Gap this morning. They had clear weather, sunshine and no wind. The team had experienced winter-like conditions this week at Camp Muir but had a lot of fun training at 10,000 feet.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope the weather hold out for your team.  Good luck and thanks for a great adventure last week.

Posted by: Gary Butcher on 6/1/2013 at 3:59 am

Looks like you guys had beautiful weather! I’m so jealous! Have fun and stay safe!

Posted by: Michaela on 5/31/2013 at 10:49 pm


Mt. Rainier: September 8th - Summit

RMI Guides JJ Justman and Andy Bond led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams stood on Columbia Crest today with hazy skies (thanks to wildfires in the east), a slight bit of new snow and brisk temperatures. Teams hit the top just before 8:00am PST, spent an hour at 14,000 feet before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Getting on… Soon

Saturday, June 19, 2021 - 11:00 pm PT

Today was about prepping and packing.  We got out to the airplane hangar early for a fine safety briefing by a National Park Service climbing ranger.  We then conducted gear checks and set about organizing and sorting personal equipment and group gear.  This took us through mid afternoon and culminated in a weigh-in with the K2 Aviation ramp crew -the folks responsible for loading and unloading the aircraft.  We were happy to be sheltered within the hangar as it rained off and on through much of the day.  The rain mellowed by the time we got into town for dinner at the brewery.  Plenty of tourists in town enjoying the weekend, but we seemed to fit in just fine.  Tomorrow, with a little luck, we’ll get on the mountain

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck Aaron!!! Thinking of you and can’t wait to see pictures of your climb! Be safe! Love you!

Susan ❤️

Posted by: Susan Wells on 6/21/2021 at 1:22 pm

Good luck to the entire team.  Watch out for Aaron.

Posted by: Bob Telford on 6/20/2021 at 4:18 pm


Denali Expedition - Van Deventer & Team Fly onto Denali Basecamp

May 16, 2021 - 12:41 am PT

We hit the ground running today. At 8 am the weather looked good to fly, so we hustled to the hanger, changed into mountain clothes, and loaded gear on the two K2 otters that would ferry us to Basecamp. The flight in is always a highlight, as the tundra gives way to foothills, and then to the craggy peaks and ridges of the Alaska range, with cracked up glaciers carving channels between.

We took an hour or two to get our gear sorted, sleds loaded, and ropes setup, and then struck out from Basecamp to make our way up the lower Kahiltna to the base of ski hill. Often the first hour of moving with sleds has some hiccups, but not for us today. The group moved well, enjoying firm enough trail conditions that we could eschew the snowshoes.

We're settled into camp, feed, and tucking into sleeping bags for our first night in the mountain. We'll be in touch tomorrow!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jason- Your structural engineering group is cheering you on from afar!! We miss you and look forward to hearing all about your adventures. Hope you’re not thinking of Camden Shops up there lol.

Posted by: Katherine Bemis on 5/28/2021 at 6:30 am

Jason, All that tire pulling with Sully is paying off! You got this!
Lisa and Charlie

Posted by: Lisa and Charlie on 5/18/2021 at 9:56 am


Aconcagua: Scott & Team at Casa de Piedra

The second day of the trek took us ever higher into the desert valley on our way to Aconcagua Basecamp. The trail wound it’s way through the high desert of the Andes, past scrub brush, and the occasional Guanaco. Today also provided us with the first views of the mountain. It was a beautiful bluebird day and the upper reaches of Aconcagua were in full view as they towered over the surrounding peaks, including Amighino, a mountain that tops out at the same elevation as Kilimanjaro. Tomorrow we make the final push to basecamp at 13,800 feet and start acclimatizing for the upper mountain.

RMI Guide Nick Scott

On The Map

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Knoff & Team Thwarted By Winds on Cayambe

Last night as we prepared for our summit attempt, we could not get American football off of our minds. With Dustin and a couple others praying for a Seahawks win and myself along with all my Ecuadorian recruits pulling for the Packers, the howling winds, soaking mist and ominous cloud cap almost seemed to take a back seat. I say this because it was the mind frame I was in but in reality the weather was front and center. When we arrived in Ecuador, I gloated on our fortune of grand vistas and warm temperatures, but we all know how quickly things can change. And change they did.

With a 6:00 pm dinner and 7:00 pm lights out, we never learned the score but went to bed wondering. This is the main reason I didn’t sleep a single minute but my 11:00 pm alarm showed up unwelcomed anyway. As I ventured outside to inspect the winds, I was immediately greeted with a soaking mist ramming into me at 25 mph. This did not inspire me so I held off waking the group up for another hour thinking things might improve enough to warrant going up. And to my surprise it did! At 1:00 am the rain had turned to snow which made the prospect of climbing a bit more bearable, but the wind still screamed as it whistled through the Cayambe Refugio.

At 2:00 am five out of our eight climbers set off for what would be an uncertain ascent. The other three climbers stayed behind because of lingering chest illnesses they felt would improve with rest over cold, windy, snowy climbing.

It only took 15 minutes or so before our local guides began to express concern about ice covered rock and strong winds. We made the decision to go as high as we safely could, which led us through some steep rock steps and a sandy traverse back towards the glacier, which we visited a mere twelve hours previously. It was on this traverse we got the full taste of the wind’s furry. I know how strong a wind gust needs to be to blow me around and this giant fan was blowing at a constant, strong enough to have me leaning into it looking like Michael Jackson in mid performance, I’m guessing a steady 50 mph.

Shortly after passing this exposed spot it was clear our shot at the top was going to be thwarted. It wasn’t cold and the snow had even subsided a bit but the wind, through its howls, made the decision for us, we needed to turn around. This is never an easy decision to make but in the end it was the right one. Back at the hut we took a little cat nap and then woke to horrible instant coffee and some rope practice. We then packed up and headed out, back to the warmth of 8,000 feet and the fantastic burgers of Cafe LA Vaca, my favorite lunch place.

Now we are settled into one of the oldest haciendas in the country enjoying internet, a laundry service and hot showers. Our failure to reach the summit of Cayambe has only fueled the fire to get to Cotopaxi, also known as the jewel of Ecuador, tomorrow. We will keep you updated as we prepare for this 19,400' snow cone. Thanks for following.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Adam,
You might recall that we got blown off Cayambe the year I was with you as well!

Posted by: Dusty Dodson on 1/13/2020 at 9:42 pm

Sorry to hear the wind kept you from summiting. But glad to hear all are well and getting psyched for Cotopaxi. Again, wishing to all the very best!
-jill

Posted by: Jill Klores on 1/13/2020 at 8:54 pm


Bolivia: Frank & Team Summit Pequeno Alpamayo on Beautiful Day

Update: May 22, 2019 - 5:29 pm PT An early alpine start at 2am had us walking under starry skies and a nearly full moon to the base of the glacier. After four hours of glacier climbing around crevasses we found ourselves at 17,400’ at a sub peak offering us amazing views of Pequeno Alpamayo and Huyana Potosi. We descended 400’ of rock, that led to steep ridges and the final 500’ of steep ice and rock to the summit. The summit did not disappoint with views of the surrounding mountains and our next mountain objective Huyana Potosi. Lucky for us, after twenty minutes of descending off the top we were engulfed in a cloud. After a twelve hour summit day we’re enjoying some relaxation before dinner. RMI Guide Eric Frank May 22, 2019 - 6:39 am PT Good morning this is Eric Frank calling from 17,839' on the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo. We're having a beautiful morning up here. The team did incredibly well. We had four out of five climbers make it to the top of Tarija peak and four out of five climbers make it to the top of Pequeno Alpamayo. It's a gorgeous morning, light winds. We are sitting on top enjoying snacks with a view in every direction. We are going to hang out here for another 15 or 20 minutes and then head back downhill. We look forward to checking in this afternoon when we get back to camp. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in from the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Best wishes to Geoff DeFilippi and the rest of the team.  It sounds like a wonderful experience.  Thanks for the great blog posts!

Posted by: George DeFilippi on 5/23/2019 at 12:16 pm

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