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Aconcagua: Nugent & Team from Pampa de Leñas

Today was hot... Our team woke up after a last night under a roof and in a real bed and loaded up on coffee and scrambled eggs before heading back over to Grajales' packing facility. We put the finishing touches on our packing job for the mules and caught a transfer from Penitentes over to Punta de Vacas where our journey truly began. We took off from the trailhead a little after 10 am and it was already blazing. Strong sun and high temperatures made for a hard day but our team showed a lot of strength by dispensing the first stretch of the trek to basecamp in good time and with strong form. Occasional breezes and some late afternoon wind made the heat bearable. We got moved in to our first camp at Pampa de Leñas after the mule drivers unloaded our gear and waited for a rendezvous with Jake's descending RMI team. Our minestrone soup was supplemented by delicious beef from the asado that the muleteers had prepared for Jake's crew. It turns out that our friends at Grajales knew that Gabi, Jake, and myself would all be in Leñas tonight and sent up extra meat for a celebration. Now, I'm laying under the stars with a full belly thankful for great friends and excited for tomorrow's continued adventure with a great crew! RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Hi Mer, this is so great to be able to follow you. Sounds wonderful! Love Mom and Dad

Posted by: Delese and Steve on 1/8/2014 at 5:00 pm

Good Luck, Patrick and all you climbers.  We’ll be following you every day!

Love, Mom and Dad

Posted by: sheila on 1/7/2014 at 5:50 pm


Viesturs and Whittaker Establish Camp 3 at 23,400 ft.

That little puff of cloud on top of Lhotse yesterday was a gathering storm. Not a bad storm we are told - no cyclone out of the bay of Bengal, no jetstreams trying to push over mountains, tents and people. But any fool can see that the skies are now full of moisture. There are clouds at all levels, and every 30 minutes or so, there is a snow shower. This isn't all bad in my book - as I've said, a carpet of snow on the Lhotse Face will just make it safer (now a meter of snow is a different animal entirely - lets not go there). Pre-storm, if anyone had been careless enough to drop a carabiner or water bottle from Camp III, it would have rocketed down the ice at terminal velocity, seeking grey matter (helmeted or otherwise) on the ropes below. My hope is that a little texture over the blue ice will make the Face safer and footing easier. I'm all about easy. Just this morning, when it was cold and snowy outside after breakfast, I invited birthday boy Kent Harvey and his camera into my and Erica's tent, to show him how we pass time in a storm. It was our rest day anyway - so being forced by the weather to focus on puzzles, books and I-pods didn't seem odd to me. I've long considered such skills to be the mark of a good expedition climber - the ability to do nothing, when nothing is what should be done. For active (or hyperactive) Type A climbers this requires an acceptance and a faith that there will be an abundance of physical abuse and over stimulated synapses, all-in-good-time... like, say, tomorrow. I've made a career out of interspersing corpse-like downtime with long, brutal, unfair, unrelenting sessions on my feet/crampons/skis/snowshoes/etc. It works. It is sustainable. I'm satisfied after 18 years at 8,000-meter peaks, that my job here is not to compete with the Sherpas at load carrying or route fixing. I've decided that I can do a better job of concentrating at guiding. Within reason. Today, just when it got ugly, mean and nasty out, with the tent walls shaking and rough snow pellets, peppering everything - just when it seemed proper to turn up the head tunes and guide by hiding from reality - I became aware that all was not right. Ang Kaji and Tendi were concerned about several dozen Sherpas trying to get heavy packs to 26,000 feet in this intensifying storm. Specifically - they were worried for four of our own team - the guys who were buying me the ability to sit on my butt, a mile below the battle-zone. It was obvious that Ang Kaji and Tendi were gearing up to walk in the storm. They meant to get to the base of the Face - to help out with thermoses of tea and water for Sherpas who battled their way back down in wind and blowing snow. I thought about things for 12 seconds, before declaring that I'd join them and Damian Benegas on the mercy mission. I thought of how little emergency gear sherpas bring on a carry - I thought of how much emergency gear I have surrounding me in a tent. I thought of how very few storms could keep me from reaching the Face if I threw on a First Ascent down suit, and if I pulled on some goggles, and pressed the right buttons on my GPS. Word came up quickly via radio from Lambabu that my services weren't really needed. And I knew that. I also know that the best climbing Sherpas have an admirable pride that this is their mountain, on which they solve their problems. But my client was safe at ABC and I happened to have time and energy and a New Mexico EMT license. And I admire guys like Tendi, Ang Kaji, and Damian who are hardwired to look after others and to make things come out right in the mountains. We went. And it was no big deal. Our climbers and everyone else's had wisely turned in the storm. We ended up sitting in the sun at the base of the Face as the guys came staggering off the rappel ropes. I didn't do anything - except watch tired men smile when Tendi handed them tea. I'm calling it a good day.
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Aconcagua: Cifelli and Team Return to Basecamp

Well well well. After a dusty walk downhill we have arrived back at basecamp, albeit a different basecamp on the other side of the mountain, we are back to the land of three course dinners, soda, wine, and real toilets (sort of). A welcome reward after our hardwork on the mountain the last few days.

I have said it before and I will say it again, while summits are great, my favorite part of these trips is seeing a group of individuals come together to create a family and work together towards a common goal. It has been an honor to work with this team and even sweeter that we were able to go 100% to the summit.

We will all be heading home with our heads held high knowing we accomplished what we set out to do.

That being said our adventure is not quite over. Tomorrow we will complete the 15 mile hike (downhill thankfully) back to civilization and end up back in Mendoza for a delicious closing dinner. We have negotiated a deal with the mules to get one more day of help carrying our gear which is greatly appreciated.

To everyone back at home who have been following and supporting our journey, thank you from the bottom of our hearts. The support means more than you know, and you will be seeing us back stateside before long.

RMI Guide Michael Murray & Team

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Congratulations to the whole team ! It’s been a privilege to follow along with you! Enjoy the pleasures of the simple things! Cannot wait to see you Myles!

Posted by: Fionnuala Walsh on 1/30/2024 at 6:21 pm

Congratulations to you all on making it to the summit! We can only imagine how hard it was especially the last day with the wind and snow. For those of us who have never done anything like this we cannot even imagine how amazing it must be to stand at the top and feel such an accomplishment. You should all feel very proud of yourselves. We are very proud of our son Ben for helping to lead you up to the summit too. You are all awesome!!

Posted by: Karen Luedtke on 1/30/2024 at 8:16 am


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Ascend to Barranco Camp

Howdy everyone back home. 

All is well in Tanzania. We’ve had great weather and the team is humming along really well. 

We hit the trail just after 8am and hiked for an hour before taking our usual 15 minute break, then back on the trail for another hour and so on. All total today we hiked for just over 6 hours before reaching Barranco camp. Our gracious Kilimanjaro porters have been working very hard and we arrive once again to a camp set up and ready for us. 

Along the way we passed around the famous Lava Tower reaching just over 15,000ft setting new altitude records for many. We also passed by many of the giant groundsels and towering Senecio trees that made us feel as if we were in some crazy Dr. Zuess story. 

The team is in good spirits and doing great. 

RMI Guide Casey Grom

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Climb every mountain
Ford every stream
Follow every rainbow
‘Till you find your dream
A dream that will need
All the love you can give
Every day of your life
For as long as you live!

Posted by: Heather Reingold on 9/8/2023 at 9:48 am

Ode to Dylan
To the tune of Toto’s Africa
She cares for my Chiweenie through the night,
As I climb up Kilimanjaro’s rocky height,
I’m chasing dreams on that African peak so high, but she’s at home, living in Peppertree.
She may not scale mountains, but her love is true. She’ll care for our Chiweenie and wait for me in the stillness of the night. She’ll ensure Nick is happy while I chase the stars. She’ll feed our dog ice cream.
She’s a loyal wife, stayin’ by my side, caring for our Chiweenie. Love will be my guide, though I’m far away. No need for Casey. In the shadow of Kilimanjaro, our love’s a sacred place.
The stars above twinkle in my eyes as my wife cares for our Chiweenie, who can be a meanie. With a wild chiweenie, she treads her own terrain, While I’m on that mountain, facing wind and rain.
She may not scale mountains, but her love is true. She’ll care for our Chiweenie and wait for me in the stillness of the night. She’ll watch him sleep while I chase the stars. She’ll keep our home free from company.
She’s a loyal wife, stayin’ by my side, caring for our Chiweenie. Love will be our guide, no need for Casey. I feel her heart’s embrace in the shadow of Kilimanjaro. Her love’s a sacred place.
As I reach the summit with the world below, I know her love is the reason. It’s what makes me grow through the icy winds and the mountain’s might. I’ll return to her in the warm and gentle night.
She may not scale mountains, but her love is true. She’ll care for our Chiweenie and wait for me in the stillness of the night. She’ll ensure Nick is happy, and with DJ Vista on the screen, she’ll keep our home clean.
She’s a loyal wife, stayin’ by my side, caring for our Chiweenie. Love will be our guide, not Casey, I feel her heart’s embrace in the shadow of Kilimanjaro. Our love’s a sacred place.
With tanzanite aglow, Kilimanjaro will be our sacred place. She’s a loyal wife with a Chiweenie’s embrace. Our love’s a sacred place where we dream of a Labrador’s embrace.

Posted by: Heather Reingold on 9/7/2023 at 5:38 pm


Shishapangma: Team Resting Up for Their Summit Push

Greetings all! We've certainly settled back in to life at our 18,500' Base Camp with a second consecutive rest day in the books; all in preparation for our upcoming summit push. Naps were taken. Dining tent discussion came and went throughout the day. The Tootsie Roll jar certainly took a hit. And the sun poked through off and on, giving us our first warming by the sun in a few days. With the sun, a few team members took advantage of some creature comforts with our Base Camp shower setup. (Yes you read that right!) Tomorrow we'll indulge in much of the same as we wait for our weather window to begin our climb to the summit. Until then, thanks for following along, and thank you for all your blog responses and words of encouragement! RMI Guides Robby, Elias, Adam, and the Shishapamgma Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Jarrett,

As I wait for the presidential debate to begin, I find myself kind of envying you, 18,500 feet up there, breathing like an emphysema patient and mostly cut off from the stupidity of the outside world. Despite my fear of heights, I may have to consider spending the next election in the Himalayas. 1/2 to 1/3 of the oxygen at sea level in exchange for a month with no Drumpf, Hillary, Kardashians or other oxygen thieves? I’d take that deal right about now.

Seriously, though, good luck on the summit push. Remember to wear your crampons on the midnight wee trip at the higher camps, observe your turnaround time and maybe by the time you get home, I’ll have taught Mom and Dad how to pronounce the name of the mountain you climbed.  I tried it the other night with Dad after the anniversary party. Big mistake.

See you soon,
Jayme

Posted by: Jayme on 9/26/2016 at 5:34 pm

Always in my thoughts and prayers. Climb strong.

Posted by: Jane Knoff on 9/26/2016 at 12:59 pm


Mt. Rainier: August 3rd Summit

RMI Guide Zeb Blais and the Four Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Zeb reported light winds while on the summit. The team departed the crater rim around 7:30 am and is making their descent to Camp Muir where they will pack up before continuing their descent. We look forward to seeing the team in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations Climbers!
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Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Descend to 11,000’

July 16, 2014 - 11:37 pm PT Hey, this is Dave Hahn with the last team on Denali. We did make it out of 17,000’ today. We woke up, the weather was stable and we started working our way down. And sure enough, we found some deep snow, it was hard going, sometimes waist deep but we made it down to 14,000’ and then plowed through a bunch more new snow to get to 11,000'. We are taking a rest here at 11,000' and our hope, everybody is feeling pretty enthusiastic, about trying to get to the airstrip tomorrow morning. We are just going to rest a few hours and get on the trail again. We expect it to be a little bit easier now that we are down low and conditions will be a bit better than what we were dealing with. All is well with us. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls from 11,000ft on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Hope to Move Up the Mountian

June 18, 2014 - 3:42pm PT Hello again from 14k camp! Today we are taking a well-earned break to recharge both ourselves and our electronics before hopefully heading uphill tomorrow. Yesterday we took a quick trip up to the top of the fixed lines to work the kinks out of our systems and get in some acclimatization. The crew was treated to their first views of Mt. Hunter and Mt. Foraker poking out through the clouds, and everyone performed admirably on both the ascent and descent of the fixed lines. Looking forward, we have a tentatively favorable forecast for the next few days. We hope to make a push uphill tomorrow pending the weather, but in the meantime, we are doing our best today to rest and eat lots of food in preparation for the work ahead! Cheers, RMI Guide Katie Bono & Team
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It all sounds good.  Back here the mosquitoes are gone—drowned by the record breaking rainfalls.  Good luck, have fun—you’re all amazing!

Posted by: Kathie on 6/20/2014 at 8:04 am

Chris, Hope all is well and the weather stays clear for you and the team to move up the mountain. Praying for a safe journey for all.  We are so excited for you. Love mom

Posted by: elizabeth koerner on 6/19/2014 at 11:24 am


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,000’

May 22, 2014 - 6:44 pm PT We had grand plans of moving to high camp today, and awoke early to clear skies above and relatively warm temps. We started stoves and began the process of packing sleeping bags and organizing gear, but before the water even had time to boil, a cap began to build on the upper mountain and lenticulars formed over Mt. Foraker to our south west. We watched as plumes of snow, sublimating from the west buttress and 17,000' Camp, began to stream to the south. Better to sit here at 14 camp and drink more coffee, we decided.... Although now we are out of coffee.... The team is in good spirits and we will keep you posted as the situation continues. Fingers aggressively crossed that this weather breaks soon! RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall

On The Map

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Out of coffee?!  That is dire news, indeed.  I’ll see what strings I can pull for the weather…

Posted by: K2 on 5/23/2014 at 6:22 am

Good luck Dean and all the team.

Posted by: Sheryl Hawkins on 5/23/2014 at 5:00 am


Mt. Rainier: September 3rd - Summit!

Our Four Day Summit climb teams led by JJ Justman and Billy Nugent stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The Teams were able to spend some time on the summit as the winds were calm and skies were clear. They have started their descent and are on the way back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's Teams!
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