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Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Turns Due to New Snow and Avalanche Concerns

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb turned at 11,400’ due to new snow and avalanche concerns. RMI Guide Brent Okita reported that the weather was beautiful but chilly at Camp Muir. The teams are safely off the mountain and will be back to Rainier Basecamp early afternoon.
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JPW good luck to you and team
    LYM

Posted by: CHRIS WALKER on 9/7/2015 at 9:19 am

Anticipating a great adventure tale - way to go Kimberly & team!!

Posted by: Jennifer on 9/5/2015 at 1:34 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team’s Adventure Continues

June 26, 2014 - 9:40 pm PT We set out Tuesday morning to move up to 17k when circumstances both unfortunate and out of our control forced us back down to 14k camp. We made the wise mountaineering decision to forgo the summit for another time and begin the arduous trek back to Denali's Basecamp. We made it back to Basecamp around ten yesterday morning and were disheartened to hear that although clear here, the planes were not flying because of weather between here and Talkeetna. We set up camp and made the best of being stuck in the Alaska range. Although we thought our adventure was winding down, we woke up last night to over a foot and a half of snow threatening our tent. We shoveled around camp for over two hours helping other teams that had tents collapse. When the snow finally slowed down this morning, we had collected well over three feet! Although it was fun to see that much snow, it also meant we needed to put on our snowshoes to stomp down an entire runway filled with nearly waste deep, wet snow. The weather never really cleared today, but we are hoping that we will not receive as much snow tonight and the weather will be clear for flight activity to resume tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"

On The Map

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Mike and Josh,
Thank both for leading Bruce on such a great trip!

Posted by: Mom and Dad on 6/29/2014 at 6:35 pm

I’m so sorry, you guys—but I know you made the correct decision based on what you were facing—I was watching the local weather for Denali via the NOAA feeds and I’m very glad to hear that you’re down & safe!  That’s all that matters in the end!

Posted by: Susan Matthews on 6/27/2014 at 10:26 pm


Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

May 24, 2014 - 11:21 pm PT Going to sleep last night we didn't know exactly what morning would bring. The winds last night had picked up and was blowing spin-drift all around. We could hear the winds coming off Kahiltna Pass into the wee hours, but when we finally awoke and peeked out the vestibule of the tent we were happily surprised to find gloriously beautiful weather. Our move up to our new camp couldn't have gone better. The team crushed it! What a nice change from the loads we had making our single carries. Tomorrow we will head back down to our old camp to pick up the cache we buried there. Getting in to camp at 1:30 this afternoon was almost like having half a rest day. We even built a 'proper' Posh House. This is a big shelter under which we cook and can all dine together. Tonight's menu: Indian cuisine, served on a bed of rice and preceded by a tasty soup. Of course, this is always followed by an after dinner drink. Coffee, tea, hot cider or everyone's favorite: hot cocoa. Wish us luck on the weather front. It's been good so far. But regardless of what happens, we're sitting pretty right now and everyone is doing well and in good spirits. A bientot from 11,200' camp. RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

On The Map

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You guys are doing awesome! We have been following the blog. Hope the weather is beautiful for you Nicky and Bob! <3 Jay and Cara!

Posted by: Cara Marton on 5/25/2014 at 4:43 pm

Hey Steven Hart, glad to hear all is going well! I have been following the blog daily.
Wishing you and the team good weather, be safe and enjoy. Hope the bites are helping with sustained energy as you climb McKinley. So impressive!
Bi

Posted by: Bianca on 5/25/2014 at 12:41 pm


Aconcagua: Team Enjoys Rest at Base Camp

Today is our first rest day at Aconcagua Base Camp and man is it nice. We woke up and made a huge brunch of home fries and scrambled eggs complete with real French press coffee. What a treat! Between lounging in the sun and exploring the streams and scenery around camp, the team has been preparing their equipment for our carry to Camp One tomorrow. Checking and double checking that they've got all their technical gear and are bringing enough chocolate and gummies for the upper mountain. The carry to Camp One will be a big day, but the team is feeling strong and the sun will be out. Wish us luck and keep posting on the blog, we enjoy reading your comments! RMI Guide Katrina Bloemsma
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Thanks for the support! I have just a few min of connectivity; Set a personal best today, the gear carry to camp 1 (was super easy, NOT) put be at 4800m/15k ft. Back at base tonight.
Kiernan happy birthday!
Aidan i cant wait to hear how you won 5 bucks from mom.
Devlin i love you too.
Julian, team & guides are great and the jury is still out but I think Paris might have been a better vacation ;) Xoxoxox

Posted by: KenM on 2/9/2014 at 11:56 am

Rich! Love you so much and wish I were there with you!  Have fun and enjoy the climb…looking forward to more blog posts we are following them closely! Stay safe

Siriana says “Daddy I love you have a good trip and make sure you are safe in Agacagua in Chile” LOL

Ky says “I love you Daddy and have fun at Aquacongua and be safe so we can see you on the computer while you are in your tent!”

Chanchai is sleeping so no comment from him right now. :-)

Posted by: Susie on 2/9/2014 at 9:05 am


Mt. McKinley Expedition: Haugen and Team are “Rest Day Experts”

Hello, this is Mike Haugen checking in from 14,000' on Mt. McKinley. After a great push to cache our gear up high yesterday, we took today as a rest day. Although we were in the clouds most of the day, the sun was peaking through just enough to heat up the inside of our tents via the greenhouse effect. Thus, our nap-puchinos were glorious. After our naps and some lunch, Elias and I taught the crew some rope tricks that will help us be efficient as our rope teams make our way back up through the fixed lines and the running belays (our protection on steep slopes) that lie on the upper mountain. Our plan is to hurry up and wait for the perfect weather that will allow us to move from 14,000' Camp to 17,000' Camp. RMI's Joe Horiskey promised us perfect weather tomorrow, so send him angry emails if it is snowing or windy. We will check in again soon. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi gang.  My in-box is full (thanks to you). You know the old saying: good weather follows bad. It will definitely clear at some point.  Once it stabilizes, the route should be in terrific condition.  I don’t want to see you guys break my record of 33 days on the mountain and no summit (May, 1972). Keep thinking positive.  Be safe and enjoy your time on Denali (some of you will be back to the rain in WA soon enough). Joe

Posted by: Joe on 6/29/2011 at 2:41 pm

Hey K, whole team in the heart room concentrating on your blog rather than the redo mitral valve we’re supposed to be doing. The pictures from the team summiting June 29 are awesome. Seems you guys are at 17,000 feet. Incredible. How you doin? Love and kisses from the girls in the heart room, and Chris. Miss you, Buddy. Hope all is well. You’re not missing anything here. Have fun. Be safe. The Heart Team and Kyle

Posted by: Kyle enslin on 6/29/2011 at 10:31 am


Mt. McKinley Expedition: Champion & Team Recap Summit, Return to Talkeetna

Wednesday, June 17, 2025  - 10:20 am PT

Well, like all good things, this too must come to an end. Sorry we’ve been a bit MIA since summit day—those final days all start to blur together. You don’t get much downtime until you're either sitting at the airstrip waiting out the weather or lucky enough to fly straight to Talkeetna.

Three days ago, on June 14th, we stood on top. The following morning, June 15th, the team packed up camp and began the long, challenging descent. We dropped down the West Buttress around noon, descended the fixed lines, and stopped at 14,000' Camp for a brief six-hour nap.

After our rest, we had a quick dinner at midnight, then loaded up all of our gear from the last two weeks and began the march back to basecamp. We made our way around Windy Corner, down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hill, and finally back to 11,000' Camp. There, we whispered hellos to Dom’s team—who were sound asleep—grabbed our cache, transitioned back to snowshoes, and continued past Camp One to basecamp.

By around 9 a.m. on the morning of June 16th, we arrived at basecamp to good weather and the chance to fly straight off the glacier. By noon, we were back in Talkeetna wearing flip-flops, and by 2 p.m., we were sharing beers and laughter, wrapping up our expedition at the Brew Pub.

It’s all been a bit of a haze—amazing, exhausting, unforgettable. In the moment, it felt like it moved slowly, but now that we’re back on dry land, it’s hard to believe how fast it all went by.

If you've been following me for years, you know I'm a fan of Hiakus...

Fresh socks, frozen boots
Glacier sunburn, summit views
Fly me to a beer

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Enjoy Beautiful Day, Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb June 12 - 15 led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Jackson Breen, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 6:20 am.  Henry reported a beautiful and slightly busy day on the mountain.  The skies were clear and winds low.  The teams enjoyed some time in the summit crater before starting their descent from the crater rim.  Once back at Camp Muir, they repacked and descended the remaining 4,500'.  This afternoon they will complete their adventure with a small ceremony.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Team on The Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons July 7 - 12 led by RMI Guide Jordan Cargill reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Emmons Glacier route. The weather is beautiful with clear skies and calm winds. The team was able to enjoy some time on the summit before beginning their descent. Jordan and team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will continue their descent to the trail head and then return to Rainier BaseCamp. Congratulations to today's Emmons Seminar team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tal chen we are all proud of you
Well done!
Ben

Posted by: ben straussman on 7/12/2018 at 8:28 pm

Congratulations Tal-Chen !  Very excited for you and for us.
Kol Hackavod!
All my love!

Posted by: Shosh Straussman on 7/12/2018 at 11:18 am


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Move into the Garabashi Hut

It was a beautiful day here on Elbrus, not a cloud in the sky! We had a normal start to our day with breakfast in the hotel and then loaded up all our climbing gear and drove to the base of the ski lift where we rode not one, not two, but three gondolas to reach our new home for the next few days and happens to sit at just over 12,000ft. It's rather comfortable up here, as our outfitter has taken a few shipping containers and converted them into simple bunk rooms that sit atop some makeshift skis so they can be moved. Creative to say the least! Once we got settled into our new home we headed uphill on another acclimatizing hike and reached about 13,500ft before returning to camp where our wonderful cook Dasha had a nice hot lunch waiting for us. We spent the remaining of the afternoon relaxing, walking around and just enjoying the amazing view of the Caucasus mountain range. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
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Glad you survived all three ski lifts Michael:) haha. Hope everyone has a great climb today and the weather continues to hold up for the Summit. We are sweating back here in the US, enjoy the snow!

Be safe.

Jancy

Posted by: Jancy Darling on 7/13/2016 at 8:02 pm

Hi Thad. Hi Sam. Blazing heat every afternoon here now with triple digit heat indices, so to paraphrase WC Fields, all things considered I’d rather be in the Baksan Valley. Lovely scenery! I’ve seen pictures before of brightly painted shipping containers used as dwellings, but hadn’t seen the interiors. Looks cozy, though they might do with a skylight. You guys look pretty happy…

Posted by: Burton Golden on 7/13/2016 at 4:09 pm


Aconcagua: Rest Day at Basecamp

After yesterday's trip up to Basecamp, the team is enjoying a much-deserved rest day today. While most of us were woken by the 'whop whop whop' of a helicopter as it flew in with a load of supplies, others had already been up due to the cacophony of snores throughout camp. Warm, sunny skies greeted us for our breakfast of eggs with cheese, coffee and juice. The next order of business was a trip to the medical shelter for a quick check with the doctors to make sure everyone was acclimatizing well for our push further up the mountain. Everyone passed with flying colors. The afternoon ahead looks to be filled with eating, drinking, and rounds of backgammon. We will be making our first carry to Camp 1 tomorrow and are hoping for the forecasted weather of sun and light winds. Until tomorrow, The RMI Aconcagua Expedition
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