Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 12:56 AM PT
Good evening from the Pika Glacier! Another great day for the team. We started the day shortly after midnight, and headed to the "Guard Tower" formation, about one hour north of camp. Summiting during the permanently lit Alaskan night was special, despite the lack of cold temps we were hoping for in order to have better snow conditions. Back at camp before mid day, we had a good lunch and nap, and the afternoon found us ice climbing out of a nearby crevasse. We didn't seem to be affected by the long hours of activity today, and the conversations prevailed at the dining tent for a while. It seems that the weather is changing, so we'll see what tomorrow brings.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Tuesday June 30th 6:00 pm PT
Hey there, this is Billy checking in from 17,000 feet on Denali. We woke up this morning and actually almost pull the trigger. The weather was looking really good. But then things kind of soured a little bit. Thin clouds with intermittent snow, and so we eventually pulled the plug on our summit attempt before we really got it going. We're having a weather day today. We are hoping for better weather tomorrow. That's all for now. Bye.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls in from 17,200ft on Mount McKinley.
Congrats on making it this far Rob, now is your time! Safe travels for all….........Jeff
Posted by: Jeff Austin on 7/1/2015 at 6:54 pm
Pick your moment team, wait and be great!!
Doug - I bid you fair winds and a following sea. My thoughts are with you as you wait to make your summit attempt. And just in case you need reminding…don’t forget to be awesome!
~Belladonna
June 13, 2014 3:21pm PTDenali is a mountain of many moods. Yesterday, as we carried our cache to our highest point yet, she gave us a taste of moderate winds and blowing snow, showing a little irritation. Today, she seems more benign, with light winds, high clouds, and intermittent snow here in camp. The tents are warm and comforting, and we're all enjoying a well earned rest session.
To that end, we started the morning with plenty of hot coffee, endless strips of crispy, delicious bacon, and the Tyler Jones specialty of blueberry pancakes that would give the best griddle cooks a serious run for their money. The perfectly browned hot cakes, the secrets of which TJ learned from his grandpa, just kept coming, and we all ate our fill until we couldn't stuff another one down.
The remainder of the day will be dedicated to recuperation, re-hydration, and maximum relaxation. In fact, the main goal is to move as little as possible and save our energy for the climbing to come. Until then, we'll be standing by, waiting for the best window for our summit push. Thanks for all the positive vibes and keep'em coming!
Cheers for now, check back tomorrow...
Team No Troubles
Dave, Although I believe you are on the mountain, I want some proof with some close-up pictures of you! Put them on this site so we can see them. I hope you’re staying warm. Patty
Posted by: Patty on 6/15/2014 at 10:12 am
Hi Paul. I’m hoping that your journey is not harder than you imagined, and that your still enjoying yourself. Things are going good here. It was supposed to rain most of the weekend, but had some sun, so did some weeding. (BLAH!!!!) Just finished eating my “Sunday” night papa’s pizza. ( We’re breaking all kinds of rules when your gone. Haha!) Stay safe. We miss you. Alex & the dogs, say Happy Dad’s Day!!! Love Ronda, Al, Meeka (the dog who drank half my coffee this AM) and Max.
Posted by: Ronda Kinneberg on 6/14/2014 at 5:25 pm
Well, we are off the mountain safe and sound back at the hotel in Quito. Our descent went extremely smoothly with the snow conditions making for a much easier time than we had on Cayambe. At our lunch pit stop on the way back to the city we happened to randomly run into another RMI team headed by Casey and Topo that was headed from Illiniza Sur into Cotopaxi. I hope they come across the same great weather and conditions we enjoyed today. Anyway, we are all resting and cleaning up at the hotel before we meet one last time as a team tonight for a celebratory dinner.
Until next year...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team
It's hard to believe our trip is already half over! We have seen some incredible places and have had the opportunity to climb three peaks so far: one big mountain and a couple of smaller peaks. Along the way, the team has really come together and has definitely gotten in to the "groove" of expedition climbing. It's great to see everyone working together to set up camps, take care of chores, and take care of each other.
Today was a technical skills training day. We slept in until 7 am, then loaded in to a couple of 4x4 vehicles and began an exciting off-road drive to the base of Antisana. An hour or so of hiking brought us to the toe of the glacier, where we donned our crampons and ice axes for the hike to our training area for the day. Today's topics were crevasse rescue, rappelling, and fixed line travel.
After a few quick demonstrations, everyone had time to practice the various skills at a number of different stations. As guides, our job was easy today! Everyone was helping each other master the techniques and all we had to do was stay out of the way and watch the magic happen! It was great to see folks working as a team and to see everyone so eager to learn and help out.
Back at base camp, it's almost 7 pm now and everyone is tucked away in their tents. Half of our team is going to wake up in just a few hours for a summit bid; the other half has opted instead for another day of rest and technical skills practice, giving themselves the best odds on Cotopaxi in a few days.
That's all for now! Wish our summit team well tonight as they head up for the first ever RMI attempt at Antisana!
RMI Guide Nick Hunt
It is looking like we will have much to give thanks for today. The flight to Union Glacier is on! We are on the bus leaving town for the airport now, all bundled in Antarctic clothing. I hope to send the next update from the ice.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Thinking of you and your team out there! I was in SD and Flo was complaining about the cold and I said just think of Kara and stop whining! Then I came back to Denver and its been between 7-11 today and supposed to be -1 tonight so now I have to think about you and wish you a warm and snuggly night! Sounds like the weather cleared for you guys a bit. I will keep my fingers crossed for a great climb! xoxox miss ya! Can’t wait for Park City!
After spending the night at the Dik Dik Hotel celebrating our summit success, our team loaded into “pop-top” Land Rovers to begin our safari. Today we explored Lake Manyara National Park and saw many animals, which some are included in the video below.
The team is doing great and enjoying the different landscapes that we are experiencing here on safari.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Happy Valentine's Day!
Greetings from La Malinche. We checked out of the hotel this morning just before a huge crowd descended on the Zocalo to celebrate the holiday. The city center has been transformed into a huge tribute to the holiday, with a sound stage and fifty foot tall heart. Getting our bags out to the vans was quite a project as many of the streets are closed.
Traffic was light getting out of the city though and Ixta was in full view. There is much more snow than I've ever seen on it so the climbing conditions should be great.
Once we arrived at La Malinche we hiked for about 4 hours. There were clouds building and distant thunder but we were still able to get to above 13,000 feet. Now we're settled into our cabanas and ready for dinner and a good night's sleep.
I'll check in tomorrow from the Altzimoni Hut on Ixta.
The RMI family and the mountaineering community are quite something to witness and to be a part of, if only for a trip here and there. The Mexico volcano trip this last March was exactly what I had hoped it would be, and as usual it turned out to be infinitely more. My two previous Rainier summits with RMI had made a believer out of me. Telling my family that I would be in the absolute best hands while in Mexico wasn't some shading of the truth. With the mythical creatures known as guides — Jake, Christina and Alfredo — watching out for us, we set out on a most excellent adventure to climb Ixtaccihuatl and El Pico de Orizaba.
The money, the time and the physical preparation to get the privilege of attempting to summit these glorious peaks seemed to be my primary focus prior to leaving but that was not my greatest takeaway from this adventure. The very best part of this trip, for so many of us, was the friendships that were formed as we came together as a team. From a train engineer to pilots and financial analysts to company presidents, everyone came together to embrace the experience. There aren't many venues these days where people of such different backgrounds and ages are put together to achieve a difficult goal like mountaineering. The immediate concern for one another was astounding. All of us trading what small bits of information we had that might help a teammate, sharing best practices or a piece of gear, and acts of kindness that you never see coming were happening from our first meeting in Mexico City. On Orizaba, our only summit possibility, when one of the team was going to turn back with just the guide another member offered to keep him company. What an act of selfless kindness.
The fantastic cultural experience was also something I hadn't really thought about until my arrival. Throughout our travels in Mexico we were met with tremendous hospitality. Dr. Reyes' staff at the historic climbing hostel Servimont in Tlachichuca provided us with incredible food, entertainment and service. It was a unique experience to be welcomed into that legendary place. The city of Puebla is a real gem. The architecture, the restaurants, the people; I could have spent a week entertaining myself there. To experience this place with my fellow climbers was truly a lot of fun.
Oh yes, the mountain part. Sketchy weather was stalking us the whole trip with an early arrival of Spring. The guides got us prepped and in position but no one doubted the decision to retreat off Ixta after a night at 15,400 feet. It was a night to be nice and cozy. Orizaba had wicked winds and a good snowfall prior to our arrival. Our train engineer offered his four wheeling skills and whipped that beast of a vehicle up the mountain road shaving hours off our hike to the Piedra Grande Hut. What a hoot! Of course it was a classic challenging RMI mission; methodical, focused, safe. We didn’t have the best visibility until our descent but summiting was another incredible event to share with my new climbing family! The experience was a thing of beauty; the mountain, but more so the excitement and spiritual moment for each of us being up there. A huge thanks to RMI, my fellow climbers, our guides, and all the folks who supported us. I will continue to practice my rest stepping in Kentucky and very much look forward to my next adventure.
Hello everybody this is Casey Grom checking in from the Everest Base Camp Trek. Just want to let everyone know that everything is going great here in the Khumbu Valley. Today we got up early and checked out of our hotel and headed to the local airport and caught our 7:45 flight, that went relatively well. It was a smooth flight all the way to the Lukla airport. It was a clear day and we had beautiful views of the Himalaya as we headed into the valley. And then we had a brief glimpse of Mt. Everest right before we touched down. We spent the next couple hours just gradually making our way down the valley. We ended our day, here in Phakding and we are relaxing in the tea house, having dinner and just enjoying the surroundings. The team is doing great. We are looking forward to getting some wi-fi tomorrow where we will be able to send a few pictures to let you know what the trip is looking like so far. Everyone is doing great and we will check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
Congrats on making it this far Rob, now is your time! Safe travels for all….........Jeff
Posted by: Jeff Austin on 7/1/2015 at 6:54 pm
Pick your moment team, wait and be great!!
Doug - I bid you fair winds and a following sea. My thoughts are with you as you wait to make your summit attempt. And just in case you need reminding…don’t forget to be awesome!
~Belladonna
Posted by: Belladonna on 7/1/2015 at 1:46 pm
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