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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Reaches Summit!

The Five Day Climb May 23 - 27 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  RMI Guides Brent Okita and Sam Hoffman led the teams. The group reached the crater rim around 7:45 am PT. This is our first Mt. Rainier summit of the 2024 season.

Nice work team!

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Yay! Congratulations

Posted by: Kim Uncapher on 5/30/2024 at 7:35 am

Nicely done. Heading there June 25. Are all summit attempts via the cleaver vs. Ingram direct?

Posted by: Ed on 5/29/2024 at 5:44 am


Mt. Rainier: Gately, Parrinello and Teams Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb teams enjoyed an hour on the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning to take in the views and take all the photos. RMI Guides Steve Gately and Avery Parrinello led their teams up the Disappointment Cleaver route, which is in great condition. Weather today was a bit windy but didn't deter the teams. Climbers were descending from the crater rim around 8:20 AM en route to Camp Muir. Once back at Camp they will pack up their gear and continue down to Paradise. This afternoon they will have a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp to conclude their program. Congratulations to today's climbers.
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Awesome news Colin!!!  All your training paid off.  Congratulations and can’t wait to see the pics and videos.

Posted by: Mark Lockareff on 9/3/2019 at 11:13 am

Congratulations Colin! You embraced the challenge and conquered the Summit. I truly admire your indomitable spirit!!

Posted by: Sharon Lockareff on 9/3/2019 at 10:37 am


Mt. Rainier: Blais & Team Summit Mt. Rainier!

The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Zeb Blais radioed this morning to report a successful climb. The team is enjoying beautiful views of Mt. Rainier's summit crater and surrounding area. They are experiencing light winds and will begin their descent shortly. Congratulations!
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Would like information on summiting Mt Rainier. 2019

Posted by: Richard hibbert on 8/14/2018 at 4:21 am


Mt. Baker: Rossiter and Team Summit!

RMI Guide Kel Rossiter and team just called from the summit of Mt. Baker after a successful climb. They reported good weather and softening snow conditions. After a celebration on the summit, the team will begin their over 5,000' of vertical ski descent off the top. Once back in camp, the team will rest, pack, and hike off of the mountain for a well deserved meal in town.


RMI Guide Kel Rossiter calls in after the team wraps up their Mt. Baker Summit and Ski Descent

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climb Team Turns at 13,800’

The Five Day Summit Climb June 17 - 21, 2017 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond, Joe Hoch and Nick Scott made their summit attempt today. High winds and firm climbing conditions prevented the team from going above 13,800'. The group has spent the last two nights at Camp Muir, they will return to pack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
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Mt. Rainier: September 8th Summit!

The Mount Rainier Summit Climbs teams, led by RMI Guides JJ Justman and Zeb Blais, reached the crater rim at at 7:00 a.m. JJ reported strong winds with 40-50 mph gusts and cold temperatures. Both teams began their descent to Camp Muir at 8:00 a.m. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir is currently ascending to Camp Muir to spend the week training and topping their week off with a summit bid.
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Congratulations, Brad, Mary, and the team!

Posted by: Bandit and Buddy on 9/8/2014 at 9:53 am


Mt. McKinley: Okita and Team Review Climbing Techniques

May 25, 2015 - 5:33 pm PT Despite a poor forecast for today, we awoke to calm and only scattered clouds which allowed us to return to our previous camp and retrieve our cache. The scattered clouds made for some pleasant walking temps and our loads felt lighter than ever before... A nice change for our tired shoulders. We spent the afternoon reviewing climbing techniques for our carry up to 13,500 feet (hopefully tomorrow). Everyone is feeling well rested and we are crossing our fingers that tomorrow will bring another nice day! RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

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Good luck Daniel and Team and warm hugs from Gulli and Grandma!

Puss, puss/
mom

Posted by: Lena & Rob on 5/27/2014 at 7:07 am

Wow! Hope you are staying warm in this beautiful winter land. So nice to hear that your expedition is proceeding in a good spirit and the entire team is well. We are right behind you cheering you every step of the way. Love you lots! Rob and Mom

Posted by: Lena & Rob on 5/27/2014 at 7:01 am


Mt. McKinley: Mallory & Team Cache Supplies above the Fixed Lines

Sitting at over 14,000' on the west side of the mountain it takes the sun awhile to reach camp in the morning, so when we got up this morning it was cold, cold, cold. We hurriedly wolfed down breakfast and loaded up our packs with supplies for our cache, all the while hopping back and forth from one foot to the other trying to generate whatever body heat we could. By 8:30 we headed out of camp. Below us the entire lower Kahiltna Glacier came into view as we climbed higher, stretching for dozens of miles through the peaks of the Alaska Range. Above unfortunately wasn't quite so clear and a bank of clouds swirled over the summit of Denali. We climbed straight up the side of the West Buttress above 14 Camp, soon reaching an ice bulge at 15,500' known as The Eyebrow. From there the route steepens to 50 degrees or so for the final 700' of climbing to reach the ridge line of the West Buttress itself. This section is set with fixed ropes to help protect climbers on the exposed terrain. After a quick break we set out up the fixed lines, soon setting into a comfortable routine as we worked our way up the face, sliding our ascenders up the ropes as we climbed. Before long we topped out of the fixed ropes onto the ridge, stopping at 16,200' on a beautiful but exposed ridgeline, both sides rolling away several thousand feet. By now the clouds which started higher on the mountain had settled down around us, occasionally parting to reveal 14 Camp below us to the south and the Peters Glacier to our north. We cached our small load of supplies there before turning around and heading back down the fixed lines and continuing on into camp. The team climbed well today, making good time and figuring out the intricacies of fixed lines travel easily. With our cache of gear established on the Buttress we are planning on taking a rest day tomorrow before heading up to high camp for our summit bid should the weather allow. We are all looking forward to some down time tomorrow and are excited to be preparing for the summit push. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

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Hey Frank Marini,
We are all at a BBQ at Norms house for Michelles bday and we have been looking at your blog. It is so amazing! We are so proud of you! You are in our prayers…be safe, above all enjoy yourself.
Christie and everyone at your brothers house!

Posted by: Christie wissinger on 7/3/2011 at 6:46 pm

Looking east at magic hour on Mt Blanc, waiting for the sun to rise on the East to salute your bday!!!! Happy 4th - may it find you close to the top of North America.
Safe ascent and descent - fireworks for the whole em!!! Cheers to the Firecracker!

Posted by: mallory fam at camp molly in cham on 7/3/2011 at 1:41 pm


Resting at Lobuche

The team is resting and acclimatizing in Lobuche today. They took an acclimazation hike and are enjoying their last night in the tea house before reaching Everest Basecamp tomorrow afternoon. The RMI Island Peak climbers trekked back down through Lobuche today on their way from Everest Basecamp. They enjoyed afternoon tea with our climbing group before continuing down valley. It was nice to see some familiar faces and chat with them about their time at Everest Basecamp. Mark Tucker and I arrived at Everest Basecamp yesterday to help organize the gear and loads that have been arriving here. We are working on the communication tent so the group will be able to send dispatches and emails once they arrive. Our Sherpa team and Basecamp Staff have been working extremely hard to get our area of Basecamp established and things are looking good and we are ready for the team's arrival. We are looking forward to seeing the RMI Everest Climbing Team arrive at Everest Basecamp tomorrow.
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Mexicos Volcanoes: King & Team Recap Ixta Summit Day

We had some new information about the steep snow slope on the “knees” route upon arrival at La Joya. The slope had not got any new snow and was a firm ice sheet. Having been there last fall I decided that we should come up with a new plan to acclimate our group in preparation for Orizaba. Our local guide Alan had mentioned that climbers had been descending the Ayoloco route. For context the Ayoloco glacier was declared “dead” in 2018. Our guides had used this route to climb Ixta until 2011ish. We decided that if the Ayoloco was descendable then it must be ascendable.  

We set off yesterday into a dry and tall grassland filled with large sporadic pine trees, small lizards currying underfoot at 13000’. We picked our way up a “trail” not frequently used. Our high camp was 1000’ lower than the Refugio on the “knees” route but more pristine. We had a running water source nearby which doesn’t exist higher up. 

Our team wound its way across Ixta’s middle slopes at midnight with the night lights of Mexico City showing the way.   After a circuitous climb of the area formally known as the Ayoloco, we were on the summit at 5 am. Taking in the dawn colors before dropping into the once bountiful Ayoloco valley the team rallied like they have all trip. 

The descent to La Joya aggrieved knees and toes but there’s no motivation like a hot shower, cold drink and rest day. We are in Puebla for a rest day and will repack for our Pico de Orizaba attempt on Saturday. Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King

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