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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry and Cache

Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 11:21 PM PT Our workable weather continued today. Crisp, cool and mostly clear conditions prevailed as we set out above 11,000 camp at 7:15 this morning. Motorcycle Hill was first up, but didn’t take us all that long, just forty five minutes of “duck foot” cramponing up a steep snow slope with a handful of well-bridged crevasses. Next up was Squirrel Hill, a little traversing and some more duck footing, which brought us up to the Polo Field at the west end of the West Buttress. By this point, we were finally out of the valleys... looking up at surrounding mountains has been fun, but now looking out and down at the world from 12 and 13,000 ft is novel and beautiful. Windy Corner wasn’t windy. We took a pleasant rest break there in the mid morning sunshine. Then we put our helmets on and climbed around the corner. A new world opened up to us as we could now see the upper West Buttress and the bulk of Denali’s South Peak up close and personal. At 13,500 ft, we’d reached our target for the day -about four hours above 11 camp. We dug a deep hole in the snow to cache food and gear out of the reach of crafty clever ravens. Enjoying the sunshine and calm conditions, we lingered for about an hour before starting our descent. The track was in fine condition, so walking/climbing down went smoothly and easily. We strolled into 11,000 near two in the afternoon, which as we’ve discovered, is a darn good time for a nap. Clouds came and went throughout the afternoon and evening, there were some light showers, but nothing of great significance from our perspective. We’ll rest tomorrow to solidify acclimatization before making the big jump up to 14 camp. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
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Following along from sea level and 95 degrees, wishing we were there on the top with you.  Good Luck with continued good weather and happy hikers.  N & P from Maryland.

Posted by: Sandy on 6/28/2019 at 5:42 am

Thanks David - great being connected!  Is that Keir in front of the camera in today’s post walking up hill? Awesome views and blue skies!

Posted by: Rich Green on 6/27/2019 at 10:05 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit climb Teams Turn at 12,600’

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Chris Ebeling reached 12,600' today before deteriorating weather and snow conditions forced their decision to turn back. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
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Blessed to have alpine with you and your Tele-tuesday gang thru Bear Pit,Many Years Ago,Which was Completely Memorable, Will always be thankful for you and Julie ‘s friendship even back when you lived on Gold HILL

Posted by: James ( Spud) on 6/1/2019 at 1:12 am

Maybe not quite as hoped but had to be an unforgettable experience for all, none-the-less!  Can’t wait to hear the details, Chandra! 
‘Love u to the mountains & back!’
Mom ❤

Posted by: Kari on 5/26/2019 at 9:27 am


Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team are Rigged & Ready to Roll

Our team is assembled, or bags are packed, and we are ready to climb onboard the airplanes and take off! We spent today going through all of our gear, packing and repacking our bags, and sorting lunch food. With all of the details dialed in, we're going to eat what is hopefully our last dinner in town for a few weeks, and catch some zzz's. Tomorrow with any luck, we'll board the planes first thing for one of the highlights of the trip: the stunning flight into Kahiltna Base Camp. We'll be in touch! RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team
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Ed and the team, Have a wonderful trip and wishing you great weather. So proud of you!

Posted by: Gayle Hutton on 5/16/2015 at 6:28 pm

Following your adventure Brian P. Best of Luck and keep the updates and photos rolling.

Posted by: Faisal M on 5/16/2015 at 5:25 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Turns Around Due to Poor Weather

The Four Day Summit Climb May 23 - 26, 2014 was forced to turn around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver today due to poor weather. RMI Guides Eric Frank and Pablo Puruncajas made the call to start the descent. The team will return to Camp Muir and then start their descent to Paradise later this morning. We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
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Be safe and finish strong. You showed courage, strength, and good judgement!

Posted by: julie grooms on 5/26/2014 at 2:11 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Approaches Summit Crater

RMI Guide Bryan Mazaika and the Five Day Climb are approaching the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. New snow fell overnight but Bryan reports the weather is currently nice and cold up top. The teams will spend some time on the summit before starting their descent. We look forward to seeing them back in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations climbers!
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Go Jamie! You are a rock star. Super stoked for you as well!!!

Posted by: Ryan O. on 7/2/2019 at 7:53 pm

Congrats, Jamie!  What a feat!  So stoked for you!  Much love!!!!

Posted by: Jason Weisberg on 7/2/2019 at 7:17 pm


Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Ascend to Moraine Camp

The Alpamayo team is doing great! This morning we had a leisurely breakfast and began packing for our carry to Moraine Camp. We waved goodbye to Elias and his team as they started their descent to Casha Pompa and by mid morning we shouldered our packs and began hiking. The trail to Moraine Camp weaves through a boulder field as it ascends towards the glacier above. With blue skies overhead we all found ourselves pausing to taken on the spectacular views of the Cordillera Blanca. Once at Moraine Camp, 16,100 feet, we unload our equipment and relaxed for a bit before starting our descent back to BC. After rolling into base camp we enjoyed some delicious soup and spent the afternoon relaxing, reading, or napping. Tomorrow will be our first true rest day, and despite the fact that everyone is strong and healthy we need it more for acclimatization. That's it for now. Thanks for following along RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
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Mt. Rainier: Seminar Reaches the Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir reached the crater rim at 7:30 am. RMI Guide Mike King reported no wind, a great route and a beautiful morning! With such amazing weather, the team stayed on the summit until 9:00 am and will check in once they are back to Camp Muir. They will stay one more night at Camp Muir and descend from the mountain tomorrow.
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Congratulations!  What an awesome accomplishment!  Glad you had great weather and made it back safe.

Posted by: Jenny on 11/6/2016 at 7:57 pm

Congrats everyone!! Really glad you had great weather! Have a safe descent!

Posted by: Kristina Boutilier on 9/15/2016 at 12:41 pm


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams Climb Under Full Moon

The Four Day Summit Climb August 15 - 18, 2016 enjoyed an alpine start from Camp Muir under a beautiful full moon. RMI Guides Jake Beren and Ben Liken reported great climbing with warm temperatures and calm winds. After spending time on the summit both teams left the crater rim on their descent just before 7:30 am PT. We look forward to meeting the groups back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
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One year from a septuagenarian and never having participated in snow activities probably is not the most propitious period to start mountaineering, especially on Mt. Rainier. It was Theodore Roosevelt, though, who said, “... Far better is it to dare mighty things, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.”

Being in good physical conditioning and active all my life I decided to follow Teddy’s advice. I made it to Ingraham Flats and realized appropriately that my slower pace was a deterrent to team members’ having a successful climb. No regrets from me, though. I met wonderful professional guides who were patient and indulgent with me throughout the climb.

I am proud of those individuals who summited. I also take particular pride in cultivating a friendship with young 18 year old Kyle who impressed me deeply with his poise, maturity beyond his years, self-discipline, physical ability and love of his family of whom he spoke proudly. Go through life Kyle, spreading your wings and soaring as high as you dare to achieve mighty things as Teddy most assuredly would say to you.

RMI is a professionally run company. Its professional staffs are highly skilled mountaineers who place a premium on customer safety. While safety is their number one priority the professional guides establish prudent parameters for customers to maximize available opportunities to apply their skills for a truly memorable and amazing experience.

With Kindest of Regards,
Jerry W Doyle

Posted by: Jerry W Doyle on 8/20/2016 at 2:58 pm


Forbidden Peak: Walter & Team Reach Summit of Sahale Mountain

RMI Guide Mike Walter checked in. After a successful summit of Sharkfin Tower yesterday afternoon the team headed over to Sahale Mountain and reached the summit at 10:46am PT this morning. At 2:02pm PT Mike Walter and Team reported that "All is well" and they are back in camp.
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Lindsay Mann reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported clear skies and good climbing. They were able to enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent around 7:30 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!
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