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July 1, 2014 - 11:13 pm PT Today was a relatively easy move for the team. We were walking out of our 9,000' camp at 7 AM when things were crisp and cold. The track was in pretty good condition due to the number of teams that had been over it in the preceding 24 hours and our loads were light. We began in clear conditions but by the time we reached the big right hand turn at Kahiltna Pass, we were in cloud. Passing our cached gear at 10,000', we began the more serious hills leading to 11 camp. The team rolled into camp at around 11:30 AM and set to smoothing out tent platforms. Right about then it began to snow, just as had been predicted. There are at least a half dozen other guided teams in camp, a few more than we expected to see, but most are staffed by friends and acquaintances. The team took a well-earned rest for the afternoon. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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The Four Day Summit Climb August 11 - 14 led by RMI Guide Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today! This team is comprised of climbers helping to support Big City Mountaineers Summit for Someone Program. Jason reported cold temperatures and a light wind with a cloud cap descending onto the summit. The team began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 a.m. PT en route to Camp Muir. They will continue their descent to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit team and a special congratulations to RMI Guide Jason Thompson for reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier for the 100th time! Way to Go!

We broke out of base camp bright and early enjoying bluebird perfection walking up the Kahiltna today. Wasn't too hot nor too cold and virtually windless. Six hours of walking brought us to base camp at 7,800' at the base of Ski Hill. The team is strong, moving well, and having a great time thus far. After chowing down on a great beef stew dinner, we shut down camp and crawled into our tents just as the sun went behind the mountains and the chill set in. Time for some well-earned rest after hauling up big loads. We'll check in again tomorrow from our next stop along the way. RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart and the rest of the crew

The hottest new restaurant in Alaska is Maureen’s, currently located at the 11K camp on Denali. Started by a trio of up-and-coming chefs (Jackson, Ray, and Seth), who also happen to moonlight as mountain guides, Maureen’s serves up delicious Tex-Mex fare with Asian and Creole inspirations, reflective of the chefs’ diverse backgrounds. “Corn is pretty much my greatest inspiration; I can turn a tortilla into just about anything,” says Chef Jackson, citing his Iowan roots. The pop-up restaurant is small, seating 9 and squatting 1.

On a busy night of service, guests can hear Chef “Sweet Baby” Ray rapping to OutKast with an inexplicably thick Eastern European accent while whipping up a jambalaya in the open kitchen. The portions are generous, much appreciated on big efforts such as caching heavy packs of gear up to 13K ft.

When not working the breakfast shift, Chef Seth runs front of house, chatting up the regulars and offering sweet words of affirmation, which they desperately need to wake up each morning. There is relatively little to complain about, except maybe the limited beverage list (despite the chefs’ weird insistence on tasting the glacial terroir — it’s just hot water), the overpowering red polyester decor (reportedly Maureen’s favorite color), and the ever-present undertones of body odor. Dress code is casual, although insulated down is highly recommended. Gluten-free options are available upon request.

– Jason

Sunday, August 4, 2024 - 1:13 AM PT

The team reached the summit of Kilimanjaro this morning at around 7:00am in sunny but cold and windy conditions. We reached Point Stella as the sun was rising above the horizon, offering us a much needed lift from the toil of climbing in the dark since midnight. 

We just got back to camp and will be treated to a celebratory lunch before packing up and descending another 5,000' to the thick air of Mweka Camp. Then, finally, we'll be able to enjoy a much needed rest. 

Jambo from Barafu Camp, 15,200'

RMI Guide Brent Okita

PC: Brent Okita

Thursday, May 9, 2024 - 10:48 pm PDT

The pilots in the Alaska Range are some of the best mountain pilots in the world, so when we chatted with K2 today and they said they didn't think the weather was going to let us make it to base camp today, we took it to heart. They are the pros at flying and if they don't want to go, we don't want to be on the plane. So, we cooled our feet, had a nice breakfast and a nice coffee, and made a plan to refresh some crevasse rescue skills in the hanger. No sooner had we built an anchor than we got the call that things were changing for the better. They watched it for a bit, loaded the planes, looked at it some more, and decided it was worth trying. Sure enough, there was a clear path up the Kahiltna, and suddenly we were in the Alaska Range listening to the retreating whine of the turbo otter as it headed back Talkeetna, leaving us on the glacier to contemplate the size and scale if peaks around us and our undertaking.

We opted to stay at base camp tonight and get things sorted, so we set tents and had our first meal on the mountain. It's a different vibe now from the nervous waiting and preparing. We are here and it's up to us to start moving our things uphill. So, we'll take our fate in our hands and set out for the base of Ski Hill tomorrow to take our first steps on our journey up Denali.

We'll check in tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete VanDeventer, Jackson Breen & Team

After getting pushed back down to Base Camp by poor weather we said good bye to a few team members who are headed home today. Our team is getting smaller and smaller as we near the end of our time here. It's been almost two weeks at Base Camp, and although we unfortunately did not get to climb our objective, it's been a worth while experience. I believe everyone will be walking away from this expedition having learned something. Our journey in this valley is over but our journey in general isn't. Tomorrow we will head to the valley to our east and try our hand at a peak over there. We are hopeful that we can find a smaller peak to teach more mountaineering skills to the Nepali girls and to be able to stand on top of peak. Here's to some lady luck, RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Friday June 19th 11:11 pm PT On Thursday, June 18th, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his June 2nd Mount McKinley Expedition reached the summit!!! After our spectacular day on the roof of this continent, we have to come down. Waking to calm winds and warm(ish) temperatures, we packed up our high camp and bid our snow walls and tent platforms adios. Leaving 17K Camp we cruised the Buttress and made it down to 14K Camp where we dug up a cache and wished the ascending RMI team bon voyage before heading to 11K camp to grab a few winks while the glacier sets up for our walk out to the runway. Amazing how just last week we were camped here with a huge mountain ahead of us filled with so many unknowns. Now we are on the other side of the mountain, grateful for the exploration of an amazing place on planet earth. RMI Guide Jake Beren

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Brent Okita and JJ Justman, both reached the summit this morning! The teams reported a beautiful day in the Pacific Northwest. After both teams spent some time on the summit, they began their descent at 7:20 a.m. Congratulations summit teams!

May 27, 2014 - 7:08 pm PT Hearing light snow hitting the fly of our tent this morning prepared us for the possibility that today might finally be the day that stopped our upward progress on the mountain. Very light snowfall coupled with wind and clouds were part of the view from our vestibule. Neither the best nor the worst weather Denali has to offer, so we decided to get up and at least have breakfast while we waited to see if the day might take a turn for the better. Over a breakfast that would rival the best your local greasy spoon could offer, the outlook for the day became ever more apparent, we were going to enjoy our first rest/storm day. That no one really voiced any complaint reflected the shared sentiment that we were all ready for a break from the constant pace of the trip so far. Following our breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon and hash browns, we set to explore and debate many of the world's challenges and recount some of our personal histories. Of course, such heady conversation, fueled as it was by caffeine and unexpectedly unused climbing energy, soon left even the strongest of us deserting our Posh House tent for the cozy comfort of our tents and sleeping bags. And so has passed our day, playings cards, reading, listening to music, and just plain relaxing. Life is great! RMI Guide Brent Okita

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