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Our team had a great day today, tackling our first
acclimatization climb in good style. We climbed to the summit of Rucu Pichincha, a 15,400' volcano outside of Quito. The views were grand as we ascended in the rare air of high altitude.
Everyone did great (we were all breathing hard up there!), and we look forward to moving out of the comfort of the city life tomorrow, heading south, and getting another acclimatization hike under our belts.
We'll touch base again tomorrow. Thanks for checking in!
RMI Guide
Mike Walter
On The Map
Leaving Papallacta behind today wasn't easy. We only spent a single night there, relaxing our muscles in the natural hot springs, but I'm sure many of us were ready to call it home. Wifi, beds, good food, cozy cabins... But alas, we must move on and continue what we came out here to do. The glistening white slopes of Antisana are calling out to us!
Our day did began with some sad news, however. Two of our climbers made the difficult decision to head home early due to a debilitating illness. We will miss them on the rest of our journey and we hope for a speedy recovery once they get back.
On paper, today's objective was to establish base camp at
Antisana. In practice, however, it felt like our objective was to eat as much food as possible! After packing our gear, we ate a hearty breakfast at our hacienda, complete with fresh fruit, cheese, eggs, and bread. We loaded our gear and headed down the road toward Antisana. En route we stopped at a beautiful eco-lodge nestled at the base of a rocky cliff, famous for its native condor population. There, before our breakfast really had a chance to digest, we sat down for a delicious four course lunch. In truth, most of us probably could've stopped eating after the appetizers, but our insistent hostess made sure we finished the full meal. From there, another thirty minutes of driving brought us to the field that we'll call home for the next few days.
We spent the evening setting up camp, practicing various knots, hitches and bends, and (you guessed it!) more eating! Now the night is coming to a close, and everyone is inside their tents, resting up for another full day of training tomorrow.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Greetings from Barranco Camp.
We are enjoying great weather and everyone did well last night. We had a nice hike today and the team is doing great. From our camp we have beautiful views of the summit and the Barranco Wall. We gathered in the dining tent for our afternoon snack of tea, fresh popped popcorn and hot peanuts. This is the life!
The team came to the challenging decision, where part of the team chose to continue uphill and part of the team called yesterday their high point.
For those who chose to continue uphill, you can follow along with their journey on the May 12th Expedition with Dustin Wittmier. For the remainder of the team, we packed up late last night, walked through the night and flew back to Talkeetna mid-morning where we can now enjoy a shower and beer for our hard work.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team
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Denali Expedition May 14, 2024
Saturday, June 8, 2019 - 3:42 PM PT
We had our first active rest day today. The weather forecast called for a calm night with increasing clouds and possible precipitation through the day. The air was still when I woke at 5 am to check the weather. After a salmon and cream cheese bagel breakfast we set off down hill with our sleds strapped to our backpacks. The goal was to carry all of our cache from 9300’ to 11,200’. The Team did exceptionally well and we managed to beat the heat of the morning for all but the last hour. The afternoon clouds are coming into camp and creating a greenhouse effect where the UV comes through the clouds and reflects off the snow then gets bounced back by the clouds making for a hot day in camp. People have their sleeping bags clipped on the outside of the tent for a more ideal napping environment. So long as the weather continues this pattern we will wake early and carry food and fuel around Windy Corner in preparation for our camp move to 14,200’ in
Genet Basin. Even though we have been moving lots of weight up the glacier for four days, the Team is happy and enjoying the beautiful scenery here on Denali. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Almost one in the morning now. It has been a long, but very fine day. We took off from Punta Arenas just after ten AM. The flight -in airline seats within the cargo hold of the IL76- was smooth as anything. It took about 4.5 hours to get down to
Union Glacier. By then we were wearing plenty of clothing in anticipation of setting foot on Antarctica. Sure enough, it was cold and windy at the ice runway, although it was also brilliant, sunny and beautiful. We caught a ride over to camp in a modified big wheel van. As is normal, there wasn't much wind blowing at all in Union Camp and so it was quite pleasant to sit outside talking. We peeled off our down coats and mingled with the camp staff and the other climbers and adventurers in camp. It took a bit of time for all of the cargo to come off the big plane and be transported to camp, but not long after being reunited with our gear, we were loading it into a ski equipped Twin Otter for the ride out to Vinson Base. The team took plenty of pictures of the ride through the Ellsworth Mountains. Our second perfect landing of the day put us exactly where we wanted to be... At 7000 ft on the Branscomb Glacier, at the foot of Mount Vinson. There were no clouds to hide the spectacular peaks and glaciers surrounding us. We had plenty to do in getting a camp established and gear and food sorted, but of course the sun just kept beaming down after midnight, so we kept at it until all were fed and in bed. It isn't going to get dark tonight, but soon the sun will duck behind the mountain and it will get cold. So we'll sign off for now and check in again tomorrow... today.... whatever.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 23, 2015 9:51 pm PST
We had a successful move up to 17,000 foot camp on
Mt. McKinley. The weather was perfect for traveling on the fixed lines and above. Climbing on the amazing ridge that crests the West Buttress of Denali is always one of my favorite parts of the climb because of the beautiful rock an the exposure. I think all of the El Siete boys had a good time weaving through the rocks and snow that provide the natural protection on the ridge. As of now, we are planning to try to summit tomorrow. The forecast looks good and the crew is ready. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Thank you to everyone who followed the climb. I deeply appreciate all the support I felt from this community!
You can view photos of my trip to Nepal in my
Dropbox gallery. Included are a few from working with the local people after the quake. As for what the immediate future holds for me, today I’m packing for my yearly pilgrimage to guide on Mt. Rainier for RMI. I am psyched to get back up to the Pacific Northwest, share the experience of mountaineering with others, and see my many good friends there. Again, thank you all for your support.
RMI Guide Alex Barber
Well the weather gods have not changed their disposition yet, and we're still in
Talkeetna waiting for the weather to improve so that we can fly in to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier.
In the mean time, we took advantage of ample free time to review anchors and crevasse rescue systems in the K2 Aviation hangar.
We'll keep you up to date...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Greetings all!
Last night was clear and cold with the freezing level hanging just below our new home here at
14,000ft. Today is all about relaxing though and the team enjoyed a leisurely morning and some of JJ's famous scrambled egg breakfast.
Our agenda tomorrow has us carrying a load of gear to cache at Camp I (16,400ft) What this means is that we will ferry a load of gear higher on the mountain and then return back to basecamp to sleep. This will allow the team to better acclimatize while moving much needed food and gear higher on the mountain and consequently making our move day loads lighter. So this afternoon will be spent organizing and packing gear for an early start tomorrow. The team is looking forward to the challenge of heavy packs and higher elevation. Morale is high, the weather is good and we couldn't be happier!
RMI Guide
Steve Gately & Team
Looks like a wonderful day! Have a great climb tomorrow and stay safe.
Posted by: Gayle on 6/30/2014 at 8:10 pm
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