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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Take Another Storm Day

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Elevation: 11,200'

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May 29, 2017 Another two feet of snow fell on us last night, and it was still snowing when I awoke to check the weather throughout the morning. So, another storm day at 11,200' Camp. With all this snow dreams of skiing the deep 'pow' entered all our skiers' brains, but the only face shots we got was when the wind caught the snow we were shoveling from our tents and blew it back in our face. Oh well. The snowfall intensity was remarkable. Fifteen minutes after clearing your tent it appeared that you had done nothing. Since we had enjoyed a great rest day yesterday, I thought it better that we stretched our legs just a little today. So, we roped up for a short stroll down to 10,100' where we helped out our team behind us and carried some of their cache up to camp for them while they were taking a storm/rest day at 7,800'. Loads were light and in a couple of hours we were back at camp. An afternoon relaxing back in the tents topped off our little walk, leaving the team feeling pretty darned good at dinner. We're all keeping our fingers crossed for tomorrow. Send us positive thoughts for the weather. And thank you for the blog replies. We've gotten one batch sent to us so far and everyone loves hearing them. Good night from 11,200' camp, hopefully for the last time. RMI Guides Brent, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

On The Map

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Hi my favorite nephew!  What a story of a winter wonderland!  Love the face shot story….gee should have packed those skis…you probably need a little more weight! Did you make progress yesterday?
Didn’t see a posting?
Praying for clear skies for today 5/31.
I am amazed at this feat and so proud of you and your team, JT.
Love you lots,
Auntie Gay

Posted by: Auntie Gay on 5/31/2017 at 7:12 am

Praying for the snow to stop!  All our love and thoughts are with you and the team.
The sun will shine and you will continue on!  We miss you and stay safe!  Mom & Dad xoxoxo

Posted by: Sandra Friaglia on 5/31/2017 at 3:13 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Trip Complete

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

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June 21, 2015 2:37 pm PT Well the team has disbanded for more solo projects after an incredible climb of Denali. We worked hard together for a few weeks and were lucky enough to see that hard work pay off and stand on top together. I'm proud of the effort and camaraderie that made a successful trip for everyone. So much goes in to a good adventure and the main ingredient is the people who choose to undertake it. Thanks to everyone who offered up their loved ones for a few weeks while we tried to match an exceptional mountain. See you all soon and great job Team. RMI Guides Jake, Andrew and Christina
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Amazing Feat AJ! Congratulations again team! :)

-Priya

Posted by: Priya on 6/25/2015 at 10:23 am

Congratulations All! Bravely done, and looks like you had a stellar weather window for summit day. I look forward to hearing stories when you get back, Bill Dorn…

Posted by: Theron Shaw on 6/22/2015 at 10:14 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Take a Rest at 14,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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After a big day yesterday, we had a rest day here at 14,000' on Mt. McKinley. We practiced some more fixed rope techniques and got ourselves organized. Our plan is to move our cache up to 17,000' camp tomorrow. This will allow us to carry much lighter on our move day and to further our acclimatization before we make our big move up to 17,000' Camp. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and "The Ocho"

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Hahn & Team Move to 7,800’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

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This is Dave Hahn calling from Mount McKinley. We were able to move from Basecamp to Camp 1 at 7,800’ today. We thought we were going to get a perfectly clear night, but it did end up a cloudy night again. The clouds rolled in as we were going to bed last night and put a little tension in things. We weren’t sure that the glacier surface was going to be able to freeze up with that cloud cover. We woke up to climb at 1:00 a.m. and the cloud cover was starting to break up and things were getting cold again and starting to freeze. We left Basecamp at 3:30 a.m. and conditions were pretty good. We moved on down to the main Kahiltna Glacier, and banged a right turn around Mt. Francis. The lower glacier right now is a little broken in that region with lots of crevasses. There is a lot of contour to the surface. It’s a pretty rough surface because there is ash from the volcanic eruption to the south from a couple years ago which is now on the surface of the snow. Things are melting out a little bit strange this year which made it a little awkward for sled pulling. We saw a number of other guided teams and other teams coming down and we witnessed a lot of folks stepping into crevasses. Most just post pushing a leg here and there but we actually did pretty well and didn’t have too much trouble. Conditions improved as we got closer to 7,800’ with good sled pulling condition. The group moved pretty well and everybody was feeling good, everybody was enjoying the morning. It took us about 6 hours to here so by 9:30 a.m. we started setting up camp. We have had a relaxing rest of the day. We are taking it easy and trying to get out of the sun. There is another snowstorm around but we seem to be in a hole. We can see it storm up higher on the mountain and back down at Basecamp. But for now it’s pretty nice right here.


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from 7,800' on Mt. McKinley, July 2, 2011.

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs led by Okita and Hedreen Reach Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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Yesterday the Four Day Climb teams June 22 - 25 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and George Hedreen  enjoyed a breezy and cool snowfield, good snacks and good company. Today they made an alpine start from Camp Muir and reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 7 am.  Breezy and cold temps made for a short stop in the crater and they began their descent from the crater rim around 7:30 am.  Once back at Camp Muir, the teams will repack and take a short rest before continuing the final 4,500' down to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbers.

PC: Tom Skoog

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Champion & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000ft Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska

Elevation: 14,000'

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After our big day yesterday, today was some well deserved R & R. We slept in a bit and had a slow morning of bagels and bacon. We then headed to the edge of camp to dig up our cache. After a few hours of rest we then took some time to review fixed rope skills to prepare us for tomorrow, to carry up the fixed lines up above 16,000'.

We then enjoyed some dinner of potato soup and chicken sausage and called it a night.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tell Brandon we are sending good vibes, a lot of positive energy and a lot of Prayers! Remember, You’re not just climbing the highest mountain in North America, but you’re proving how strong you truly are!
Climb High and Stay Strong!
You Got This! Can’t wait to drink a beer with you as soon as you’re back. JT

Posted by: John Tamburo on 6/12/2025 at 7:30 am

Tell Brandon the megel bros and burn we hope you’ll doing great keep pushing almost there! Remember if it doesn’t challenge you it won’t change you!

Posted by: Derek goral on 6/11/2025 at 5:55 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Hoch, Whatford and Team Stopped by High Winds

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,200'

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The Four Day Climb June 30 - 3 July was unable to reach the summit today due to high winds.  RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Tatum Whatford left Camp Muir with an alpine start but were turned back at Ingraham Flats due to extremely high winds.  The teams returned safely to Camp Muir where they spent the rest of the morning. They plan to start their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise around 9 am.

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Attempt to Fly

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

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We loaded our on two de Haviland Otter turbo prop single engine airplanes this morning and took off for Kahiltna Base Camp. The flight over the tundra was beautiful as we soared beneath a low ceiling of clouds. As we approached the range it became apparent that our normal access points of One Shot and Second Shot Passes were not options due to the low clouds. So the pilots opted to try "the long way", which means accessing the Kahiltna glacier at its toe and following it up toward Base Camp. The problem was that as we gained elevation on the glacier the cloud did not, and eventually we were flying in the cloud, a thick pea soup, with very little visibility. So the team of K2 pilots made the prudent decision to turn around and head back for Talkeetna. We spent the rest of the day on stand by to see if weather would improve. It did not, and in fact it deteriorated a little. We'll play the same game tomorrow, with a less than ideal forecast. The good news is that high pressure looks to be moving our way soon! RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Good prudent decision of the K2 pilots.  Thanks for keeping it safe.  Hope the high pressure comes in with better weather.

Posted by: Susan Royce on 5/11/2019 at 6:31 pm

Clouds be gone!

Posted by: Mike Watt on 5/11/2019 at 12:57 pm

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Mt. Rainier: August 1, 2018 SUMMIT!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Kel Rossiter and Bryan Mazaika reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Kel reported that the team climbed for about 6 hours and 15 minutes to get to the summit. Today they had cooler temperatures and winds from the Northwest as they were climbing. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations Team!
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Congratulations Kent.  What a great birthday present for yourself.  HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

Ye Shaw

Posted by: Ye Shaw Chee on 8/1/2018 at 5:37 pm

Congratulations to you Kent and to your entire team - I couldn’t be more proud of you!  This is definitely a once in a lifetime experience. 

Will be thinking of you on your birthday tomorrow - celebrate when you arrive at the bottom!  Happy Happy Birthday Wishes!  Love, Aunt Lynda

Posted by: Aunt Lynda on 8/1/2018 at 3:23 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Walter & Team Reach the Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb July 22 - 25, 2017 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Mike Walter, Lydia Johnson and JT Schmitt reported clear skies and calm winds. The team will return to Camp Muir and continue down to Paradise. They will conclude their program with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Must have been spectacular up there! Great accomplishment guys!

Posted by: Jennifer on 7/25/2017 at 9:50 am

Well done! Can’t wait to hear about it and see the photos. Amazing day for it!!

Posted by: Carla on 7/25/2017 at 9:36 am

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