Cumbre! Today we successfully summited Cayambe, our first big objective of this seminar.
We woke up this morning (last night?) at 11PM and were greeted with the closest thing to ideal climbing conditions: clear skies, no wind, and cool temperatures. Whatever sacrifices were made to the weather gods last night clearly worked out for us!
After a quick breakfast in the hut, we geared up, turned on the headlamps, and began our long day of climbing. We started our climb with about an hour of scrambling over rocky terrain, making our way to the toe of the glacier. Once there, we donned our crampons, ice axes and climbing ropes to begin the technical climbing. Unlike most mountaineering routes in the United States that utilize many switchbacks to ease the pain of ascending steep slopes, the route on Cayambe is fairly direct, cutting straight up "the gut" of the slopes. You gain altitude quicker, but the climbing is bit more strenuous.
Our team persevered, however, and as we neared the summit ridge, we were ready to tackle the crux of this climb: a steep, exposed traverse through a maze of seracs and crevasses. Although the traverse is relatively short, gaining roughly 200 feet of vertical elevation, managing that type of terrain at 18,800' above sea level is never easy. This team handled it in good style, though, and we gained the summit ridge just after sunrise this morning, giving us stunning views of Antisana, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo as we walked the final 15 minutes along the ridge to the summit of Cayambe.
We successfully made our way down, and we are now relaxing at the oldest hacienda in Ecuador, giving our bodies a chance to recover as we prepare to move tomorrow to the base camp of Antisana, our second objective of this trip. I'm sure the entire team is looking forward to a good night's sleep tonight!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt and Steve Gately, and the rest of the Ecuador team
Update after successful summit:
Weather could not have been better. Same with the team. What we learn about ourselves and others up in the outer limits of our atmosphere never ceases to amaze me. Outstanding efforts today by three teens, Aaron , Hunter, and Morgan. Each along with one of their parental units, etching out some family history. A fine example of good parenting to bring out the best in these adolescents under some very demanding conditions. What they did today can put a new perspective on everyday challenges. Put that one in your tool box. The rest of us didn't do too bad either. Making good time to the top and back down safely to our last camp, Mweka, here at 10,000ft. Our total summit day only took about 15 hours. We will be back to creature comforts tomorrow after another three hours of descending.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
[Link to summit call audio]
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls from Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro, Tanzania.
The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Seth Waterfall and Ben Liken, reached the summit at 6:45 a.m. With some wind and snow falling, the teams began their descent shortly after tagging the top. As of 7:50 a.m. they had descended to 12,500' and are moving well back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
We made it to Camp 1! All is well, we're a little tired from battling the wind but our camp is now fortified with rock walls and we're settling in. Tomorrow's forecast calls for a LOT of wind so the plan for now is to rest. Then we hope to carry and move to Camp 2 on Monday and Tuesday when the winds should be a little more calm.
Until tomorrow,
RMI team Alpha 9,000 signing off.
Woke this morning to four inches of new snow. It was full on snowing when we went to bed last night and Viesturs and I, like expectant little kids, peered out the window to see how much had fallen. Lobuche had turned into a winter wonderland overnight. Nonetheless, at 16,200' the sun is quite powerful, and by late morning the temperatures were balmy, with some of the porters staging snowball fights!
After breakfast, we received a bit of disheartening news that 22 of our expedition loads are still in Katmandu. We were under the assumption that just four were there and that the rest were on their way to Base Camp. After a morning powwow, we decided to send Linden Mallory (Base Camp manager) up to Base to get a physical count of bags and inventory what was there. Our agenda does not have us occupying Base Camp for two more days, but we must have adequate gear and equipment to make our move up. We should be OK but we'll know more tomorrow.
The team is firing on all cylinders. It is an honor to be a part of such an accomplished group of climbers. We have a wealth of mountain experience and knowledge starting with Viesturs and Hahn, with 16 Everest summits between them. Our climbing team will function the same way we do on Rainier when we are stacked heavy with experienced guides. Though there is an expedition leader and climbing leaders, all team members share in the decision-making process. Our production team rocks as well, as Gerry Moffatt and Jake Norton have both stood on top of the "Big E." This is a talented team, deep on experience.
Now, with a little luck our Katmandu bags will find their way up the Khumbu to Base Camp and we can put our team's mountain experience to work.
Uh-oh, it is beginning to snow again outside...
Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons June 10 – June 12, 2025
We left Ashford early this morning, buzzing with anticipation and a healthy dose of nerves. By 9:00 AM, we had arrived at White River Campground, ready to begin our ascent. The trail greeted us with dry forest paths, but it wasn’t long before we were surrounded by high alpine meadows still blanketed in snow.
From there, we climbed up the Inter Glacier and made camp at 7,800 feet. It was our first real day of glacier travel, and it didn’t disappoint. We learned a lot—some of it the hard way—but two lessons stood out:
Never stretch, ever.
Just keep breathing.
Tomorrow, we’ll move up to Camp Schurman, spend the day training, and prepare for our summit push on the 12th.
Summit Day: June 12
At 10:40 AM, every single member of our team stood on the summit of Mount Rainier.
100% success.
6 hours and 45 minutes to the top.
One strong, determined team.
The climb was tough, but the views—and the feeling of standing on top—made every step worth it. We’re currently descending back to Camp Schurman, tired but proud.
Tomorrow, we’ll descend to the trailhead and wrap up this unforgettable journey. This climb tested us, taught us, and brought us closer together. We’ll carry these memories (and a few sore muscles) with us for a long time.
Bye bye basecamp! We left the comforts of basecamp and continued our journey uphill. Having been on this terrain just the other day on our carry, made today just a little bit easier. After conquering the final 100 feet, we strolled into a crowded Aconcagua's Camp 1. A sea on tents scatter the camp. Although there were many tents, it was quiet since the occupants were carrying their gear to Guanacos 3 Camp (our Camp 2). We claimed tent spots and got settled into our new home for the next three nights. Tomorrow we will carry to Guanacos 3 Camp, as long as we are all feeling good in the morning. As the sun drops behind the rocks, the temperature drops, and everyone begins to wander back to their tents where their warm sleeping bags lay. So begins spending 10-12 hours in our tents.
What a jam packed 24 hours it has been! After a fitful night of rest at the Altzomoni Hut, the team packed up and made the climb up to our high camp at 15,300ft. Our packs weighed between 35-40 lbs and that always makes the terrain much more challenging. Regardless, the team climbed well and we were lounging in our tents by mid afternoon. Around 4 pm we roused everyone from their siestas and gathered together in the "Refugio Los Cien" to have some soup and quesadillas.
Not long after we finished eating, the first ping began. It sounded like a child was throwing small handfuls of gravel at the side of the refugio, but then the sound intensified. In a few minutes we were engulfed in a hail storm that lasted an hour. Pellets of ice, ranging from the size of a pencil eraser to a grape, covered the ground. Slowly the hail turned into snow and we all hustled out to our tents. Over the next three hours the storm turned into an epic thunder and lighting event, making us wonder if the climb would even be possible.
At 2 am this morning when the first alarm went off, everything had changed. The skies were clear, the weather warm, the wind was gone and only a few inches of snow on the ground remained to remind us of the previous evening.
The climb was flawless. I would say textbook, but it was better then textbook. We summited at 7:45 am under blue skies with small puffs of smoke from a local volcano to keep us company.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Happy to hear this trip is going great for everyone! Dave Kestel your Rainier gang is proud of this accomplishment! Can’t wait for you to talk our ears off about it!
Saturday, June 16, 2018 - 6:02 PM PT
Strolling up Denali taking a hike
Day 18 brings a cyclone I don’t like
Boys in the posh shoveling that snow
Waiting for the weather window so we can up and go.
You got DK white chocolate
Dropping a sick beat waiting
Patiently for his peanut butter treat
Who needs any meat
At 17,000 feet.
All I want are my peanut butter
Cups.
Peanut butter cups.
Your dark ridges so heavenly on my lips,
Forever on my hips,
Your sweet and salty, hardly ever
Malty,
When these mountain days look all
Faulty,
All you need are those glorious
Peanut butt-er cuuups,
To keep on the up and ups.
To be continued...
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
Matt Hill, Bubbles is wondering if you have seen any shopping carts on Denali. Dwight Schrute says Hi also.
Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/18/2018 at 6:32 am
Thinking of you and the team, constantly, Nicholas!
I know the weather is playing games, but the skills with the song/poem writing are really winning!
Love you so much! We’re so proud of you - always. Always.
XO,
Elisa and the Girlies
Today we headed out while all of Kathmandu was still sleeping and got onto a small Twin Otter plane as the sun was rising. By 6:30 we were airborne and treated to the smoothest flight I've ever had to Lukla. After a perfect landing on one of the world's shortest runways, we finally sat down to breakfast in Lukla. Surrounded by mountains the group had a wonderful day walking to Phakding. Once at our Lodge for the night we played some heated cribbage games (where the ladies won) and went for a walk up to an old monastery. We are all happy to be in this amazing place of rich culture and big mountains. Looking forward to getting to Namche tomorrow and into the heart of the Himalayas.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
I am ecstatic to read this news this morning! Congrats to everyone, and sincere thank yo to the weather gods!
Posted by: Denise reynolds on 1/31/2017 at 8:20 am
Nice work ! Congrats Nick and team !
Posted by: Jim Nixon on 1/30/2017 at 8:26 pm
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