The team came to the challenging decision, where part of the team chose to continue uphill and part of the team called yesterday their high point.
For those who chose to continue uphill, you can follow along with their journey on the May 12th Expedition with Dustin Wittmier. For the remainder of the team, we packed up late last night, walked through the night and flew back to Talkeetna mid-morning where we can now enjoy a shower and beer for our hard work.
The guides got up at 11:30 pm to head up onto the ridge where you can see any approaching storms for the East and West. There was a low lying blanket of clouds and west wind of 5-10 mph. Hoping not to get into a similar lightning and thunder storm from previous years we waited 45 minutes before waking up the climbers. The approaching cold front kept the clouds low through the night which afforded us a great temperature to go climbing. The first stretch takes you through the “knees” of Ixta and is a steep scree slope with some scrambling straight out of high camp.
Once on the ridge we began the up and down of what seems like 7 false summits. As we crossed the rapidly receding Ayoloco Glacier, the trail begins to narrow and we were close to the summit crater. At 17,160’ it was still dark and the teams began their descent with increasing winds and cold/damp clouds started rolling over from the West. The descent back to high camp was smooth and we enjoyed an amazing sunrise with the dark silhouette of Pico de Orizaba in the East.
The Team is in Puebla now for a rest day and tomorrow we will head for our last climb of the trip on North America’s third highest mountain, Orizaba.
Sunday, July 7, 2019 - 8:47 PM PT
The fine weather continued, except there was an irritating wind blowing at 17,000 this morning when we got stirring at 7:30 AM. The wind wasn’t particularly strong or cold, but it wouldn’t go away either, so it made breakfast and packing slightly less fun. We were out of 17,000' Camp by 10:30 and walking carefully down the crest of the West Buttress. The wind wasn’t strong enough to make anybody miss a step, but it made communication tricky. Even so, we made good time down the ridge and then down the fixed ropes. Traffic is nonexistent now as the very last three or four teams of the season were all above us and going for the top in the breeze. We reached 14,000 by 1 PM and decided to build camp. Tempting as it would have been to continue on down the mountain, we have to deal now with the downside to all the fabulous weather. The warm temperatures have caused the West Buttress to shed a lot more rock than usual. We’ll try to let it cool a little before venturing around Windy Corner. An Alpine Start is called for, so we’ll keep resting in preparation for a midnight departure. We’ll try to go all the way to the airstrip from here in order to get the lower glacier in cool conditions as well.
It MIGHT be our final night on the mountain. Stay tuned.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Tuesday, June 4, 2019 - 9:29 PM PT
The mountain was surly this morning. Winds were cold and strong when we woke up to attempt a carry to a cache at 13,600’. So we did what all smart climbers would do, and we stayed put and enjoyed warm down sleeping bags and snack food. We put in some serious chill time today, while the mountain continued move the air around until early afternoon. We are definitely feeling rested at this point after two full rest days here at 11,000' Camp, and are looking forward to getting up and attem and moving uphill tomorrow if the improved forecast comes to fruition. Not only are we rested, but we’re also full of macaroni and cheese and bacon from this evenings dinner. Here’s to putting that fuel to work tomorrow!
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘All the Cheese’
Well hope rest time is over and you are continuing your climb
Stay strong and climb safe
❤️❤️
Posted by: John Zabinski on 6/6/2019 at 5:09 am
Allan!!
We love you so much and we are so proud of you. Keep up the awesome climbing! We loved seeing the map that was posted. Holy cow! That’s a long way! So amazing!!!
Hello again everyone.
We had a slower start today to allow the many porters to hit the ever narrowing trail. Right out of camp we were faced with the only real technical obstacle right out of camp. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000 feet and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us climb up.
The team did a good job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see!
After reaching the top we took a nice break and enjoyed the amazing views of the ice-ladened south face and valleys below. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching camp.
All in all, it took only about four hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks and the peanuts that are grown far below in the valley.
We spent the remainder of the day relaxing and playing cribbage, which has been quite the hit.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the 2nd Kili crew
Yesterday we had a wonderful albeit long day climbing to the roof of Africa The team woke at the enjoyable hour of 11 pm to clear skies and a light breeze. Chilly to say the least at 15,000 ft. We had a brief midnight breakfast of oatmeal hot drinks and biscuits Hitting the trail right around midnight We climbed in hour increments with 15 minute breaks in between. Which we've been doing every day thus far. The weather started out fine but the higher we climbed the wind would increase. By the time we hit the crater rim about 19,000 ft it was a bit chilly but we were prepared and ready for all conditions.The climb took about 7 hours reach the top, the sun had risen shortly before reaching the top to help warm us and boost morale after climbing through the night. Once there we hugged each other, enjoyed the view and took plenty of pictures. It was a true test of endurance for most of the crew and I'm really proud of everyone! We descended back to high camp had a quick lunch , repacked and continued further down the mountain, where we had dinner and then headed to bed for some well deserved sleep.
Today we woke at 6:30 feeling good, had breakfast, then enjoyed a goodbye song and dance from gracious crew of porters, cooks and guides numbering 55. We finished the celebration by handing out well deserved tips and then hit the trail one last time. It took a little under three hours to reach the park gate a short drive to where the team had lunch then hopped aboard our bus for the ride back to the lodge. Finally we are safe and sound, a little cleaner after an amazing 7 day journey up and down Kilimanjaro.
The team is looking forward to safari which starts tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker & Team
June 22, 2017
After having so much fun with our cache mission up to 14,000 feet and back, the team decided they want to do it again tomorrow. This time we will be moving up to make a new camp at 14,200. We hope that the weather tomorrow will be as lovely as today.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
May 29, 2017
Another two feet of snow fell on us last night, and it was still snowing when I awoke to check the weather throughout the morning. So, another storm day at 11,200' Camp.
With all this snow dreams of skiing the deep 'pow' entered all our skiers' brains, but the only face shots we got was when the wind caught the snow we were shoveling from our tents and blew it back in our face. Oh well.
The snowfall intensity was remarkable. Fifteen minutes after clearing your tent it appeared that you had done nothing.
Since we had enjoyed a great rest day yesterday, I thought it better that we stretched our legs just a little today. So, we roped up for a short stroll down to 10,100' where we helped out our team behind us and carried some of their cache up to camp for them while they were taking a storm/rest day at 7,800'. Loads were light and in a couple of hours we were back at camp.
An afternoon relaxing back in the tents topped off our little walk, leaving the team feeling pretty darned good at dinner.
We're all keeping our fingers crossed for tomorrow. Send us positive thoughts for the weather. And thank you for the blog replies. We've gotten one batch sent to us so far and everyone loves hearing them.
Good night from 11,200' camp, hopefully for the last time.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt
Hi my favorite nephew! What a story of a winter wonderland! Love the face shot story….gee should have packed those skis…you probably need a little more weight! Did you make progress yesterday?
Didn’t see a posting?
Praying for clear skies for today 5/31.
I am amazed at this feat and so proud of you and your team, JT.
Love you lots,
Auntie Gay
Posted by: Auntie Gay on 5/31/2017 at 7:12 am
Praying for the snow to stop! All our love and thoughts are with you and the team.
The sun will shine and you will continue on! We miss you and stay safe! Mom & Dad xoxoxo
Posted by: Sandra Friaglia on 5/31/2017 at 3:13 am
Cumbre! Today we successfully summited Cayambe, our first big objective of this seminar.
We woke up this morning (last night?) at 11PM and were greeted with the closest thing to ideal climbing conditions: clear skies, no wind, and cool temperatures. Whatever sacrifices were made to the weather gods last night clearly worked out for us!
After a quick breakfast in the hut, we geared up, turned on the headlamps, and began our long day of climbing. We started our climb with about an hour of scrambling over rocky terrain, making our way to the toe of the glacier. Once there, we donned our crampons, ice axes and climbing ropes to begin the technical climbing. Unlike most mountaineering routes in the United States that utilize many switchbacks to ease the pain of ascending steep slopes, the route on Cayambe is fairly direct, cutting straight up "the gut" of the slopes. You gain altitude quicker, but the climbing is bit more strenuous.
Our team persevered, however, and as we neared the summit ridge, we were ready to tackle the crux of this climb: a steep, exposed traverse through a maze of seracs and crevasses. Although the traverse is relatively short, gaining roughly 200 feet of vertical elevation, managing that type of terrain at 18,800' above sea level is never easy. This team handled it in good style, though, and we gained the summit ridge just after sunrise this morning, giving us stunning views of Antisana, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo as we walked the final 15 minutes along the ridge to the summit of Cayambe.
We successfully made our way down, and we are now relaxing at the oldest hacienda in Ecuador, giving our bodies a chance to recover as we prepare to move tomorrow to the base camp of Antisana, our second objective of this trip. I'm sure the entire team is looking forward to a good night's sleep tonight!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt and Steve Gately, and the rest of the Ecuador team
Update after successful summit:
Weather could not have been better. Same with the team. What we learn about ourselves and others up in the outer limits of our atmosphere never ceases to amaze me. Outstanding efforts today by three teens, Aaron , Hunter, and Morgan. Each along with one of their parental units, etching out some family history. A fine example of good parenting to bring out the best in these adolescents under some very demanding conditions. What they did today can put a new perspective on everyday challenges. Put that one in your tool box. The rest of us didn't do too bad either. Making good time to the top and back down safely to our last camp, Mweka, here at 10,000ft. Our total summit day only took about 15 hours. We will be back to creature comforts tomorrow after another three hours of descending.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
[Link to summit call audio]
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls from Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro, Tanzania.
Good luck tomorrow
Posted by: Roger Coffey on 11/14/2019 at 11:41 am
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