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Over the past four days the
Sahale summit team enjoyed perfect weather and excellent climbing in the North Cascades National Park. As we ascended out of the forest on day one the views kept getting better and better until we stopped to set up our base camp at 5,300 feet. Looking up at the spectacular Boston Basin the team was excited to go up high over the next few days. Day 2 was a training day at the toe of the Quien Sabe Glacier; filled with efficiency techniques, crevasse safety, and rock climbing. After a full day of training we went to bed early to rest up for a summit attempt on the classic peak. Summit day went flawlessly and we found ourselves on top at 10:30 am after some really fun glacier and rock climbing sections. Here are a few shots from the trip. Enjoy!
RMI Guide Ben Liken
Our departure from the Dik Dik Hotel was right on time. A couple hours of travelling and we arrived at the
Machame Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park. We spent a bit of time getting organized and sorting out climbing permits before setting out into the cloud forest at 6,000' plus. Over the course of five hours, 4,000' in elevation gain, and 20,346 steps we arrived at our first camp on the mountain: Machame Camp. Throughout the day we had beautiful views of the mountain and perfect climbing conditions. The whole team is doing well and everyone is glad to have started the climb.
The dinner bell is about to ring so I better run...
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Greetings from
Alpamayo Base Camp! Pretty uneventful day... aside from an incredible hike through beautiful country, fueled by outstanding food from our cook and blessed by perfect weather. Yes it was an uneventful day on the mountains today.
Quite a few teams are populating BC, some going, some going down. We're planning on doing a carry up to C1 in the morning, and take it from there. Time to go to bed now,
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos and team
June 8, 2015, 10:59 am PT
After a strenuous day getting to 14 Camp yesterday, we slept in this morning. The sun crept into camp around 9:15 am and we slow crawled out of our tents shortly thereafter. The weather today was pretty good but the forecast is calling for some more snow and wind so we spent the day building giant snow walls around our camp and resting. The team is doing very well and acclimating well. If the weather is good tomorrow we might go do a short walk up the
West Rib but either way we are dug in here at 14,200' and are ready for whatever the weather gods allow us to do.
That's all for now.
RMI Guide
Geoff Schellens
On The Map
May 11, 2015 9:10 pm PT
Greetings from the
Kahiltna Glacier! Our team is making steady progress, and we're currently at our camp at 9,600'. The weather has been beautiful since we were able to land on the glacier on Sunday. The climbing is strenuous, as always, as we carry heavy backpacks and pull full sleds. This morning we tackled "Ski Hill", our first real significant incline, followed by rolling glacial terrain until we reached camp. Camp is all set up and we are busy cooking dinner. We'll try to rack out early tonight for some well-earned rest. Tomorrow we plan to make a cache of equipment here, at our current camp, in order to lighten our expedition loads. Then the plan is to then move up to the 11,200' camp; we'll come back for the cached gear the following day. That's the plan at least. Our plans are always at the mercy of the weather in the mountains.
That's it for now. Everyone is healthy and in good spirits. We'll touch base again tomorrow, hopefully from 11k camp.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team
On The Map
Kudos to the team!
The group climbed quite well on this first day of our
Kilimanjaro Expedition. The 4,000' of ascent was accomplished with relative ease, and now we're enjoying an afternoon that has become warm and sunny.
Our day began with an early breakfast and quick departure for the Machame Gate, where a heavy drizzle kept us company while we waited for our porters to organize our gear for transport uphill. Rain should not be unexpected in a rainforest, but nobody likes starting their day in the wet. Luckily, by the time we started the rain had mostly abated and we were able to shed that Gore tax layer fairly soon after we started.
At camp our mountain staff worked tirelessly getting tents set up and cooking arrangements working. The magic happened quickly and camp life began for us.
As always, dinner was superb, starting with a savory zucchini soup and followed by pan fried steak, potatoes, rice and a cardoman/ coriander vegetable dish. Though we thought the nutella banana fritters were dessert enough, a special cake was brought in, lit up with candles, for Patti's birthday celebration.
What a party it was as we were regaled with song and dance in honor of our birthday girl. Such a special night!
A chill is in the air as we prepare for tomorrow's climb to Shira Camp.
All for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
It’s a few minutes after 8pm and the Bolivia climbing team members are already cuddled inside our respective sleeping bags, excited for tomorrow.
Today was a good day. We awoke to a quick breakfast and broke down our tents as the sun crested the ridge to our east. Thirty minutes later, our duffels were loaded on donkeys and we moved camp uphill two hours to our high camp.
This afternoon we hiked to the toe of the glacier and did some training on advanced techniques- cramponing on ice, short roping and the finer points of pitched climbing. Now we have the skill set we need to tackle our first climb,
Pequeño Alpamayo, tomorrow.
The weather looks good and with any luck we should be calling from the top by mid to late morning.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Hey all,
Our entire team has arrived in Mendoza and excited to get moving toward the mountain. But we can't go to
Aconcagua before our inaugural steak and Malbec dinner, so we hit the town and took care of business. Now with stuffed stomachs we are ready to get a full night's rest after a long journey to South America. Tomorrow we will head into the Andes!
Stay tuned,
RMI Guide Ben Liken
Saturday, June 6th 10:55 p.m. PT
After three days of significant snowfall, we awoke this morning to mostly clear skies and moderate winds. Three days of laying in a tent will make anyone antsy, and, understandably, the team was raring to head up hill.
We used the energy and enthusiasm to make a move to
Mount McKinley's 14K camp. After an hour of wallowing through deep snow, we escaped onto firmer terrain and found ourselves here in camp six hours later.
Everyone is tired from the exertion, but elated to be this high on the mountain. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Rest day at the beautiful Chilcabamba Eco Lodge! Our team enjoyed the opportunity to sleep in and relax, and prepare for
Cotopaxi, our next objective for this trip.
After a delightful breakfast, we were able to catch a few glimpses of the mountain in the distance and talked about the route. Based on the team's performance on
Cayambe, we'll have no problem with this next climb!
We spent the day reading books and sharing stories, and wrapped the evening up with a technical skills session. We learned a variety of knots, talked about climbing anchors, and finished with a full-blown crevasse rescue scenario in the lawn.
Spirits are high and we are ready to go! Tomorrow we move on to the Tambopaxi Lodge in preparation for our summit bid on
Cotopaxi.
Until then,
RMI Guide Nick Hunt and the Ecuador team
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Ben - fix the links under the photos! I click on them and they take me to a Mt. Denali expedition.
Posted by: Malcolm Butler on 8/17/2016 at 9:23 pm
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