June 22, 2016 - 2:33 pm PT
Hey gang,
Here's a soggy hello from just south of the Canadian border. Caleb and I are sitting in a coffeeshop in Bellingham pouring over radar maps and weather forecasts, while our boots dry in the parking lot.
Yesterday we were suppose to have climbed Mt. Buckner, but both the weather and route conditions shut that down. On Monday we made it to one of our potential camp locations after eight hours of climbing only to find that it was buried in snow. We had to dig for 20 minutes to make snow platforms for our tents. It started raining later in the night and by the time we woke up at 3am to launch, everything was rimed over with several inches of ice. Because the first hour of the climb requires scrambling on six-inch rock ledges and the use of bare hands, we knew it wasn't an option.
After checking the weather every 20-30 minutes until 8am, we gave up and went back to bed. The wind continued to blow and spit light precip. Around 10am, there was a clearing and we decided to capitalize on the opportunity by making a quick trip to the summit of nearby Sahale. From the top, we had incredible views of our camp and the surrounding peaks before the clouds obscured them again.
In the early afternoon we packed up camp and started the trek downhill. As a group we decided to focus our efforts of the next objective, Mt. Shuksan, and take a full rest day in Bellingham to dry our gear and prepare.
Wish us luck and a drier next few days.
RMI Guides Eric Frank and Caleb Ladue
Good morning! We're packing up as we speak, and are scheduled to fly back to Talkeetna in the next few hours. Unfortunately we can't report another summit from yesterday. We continued to have more snow through the early afternoon and our fears for avalanche danger were confirmed when the temps climbed up later in the day. We settled for just the approach to the lower Pika, as we tested an incredibly reactive snowpack; while no climbing, that provided a super valuable safety learning opportunity for everyone.
That's it for now, our next post will be from civilization with some pics.
Best,
Rmi Guide Elías deAndres Martos and Team
After nearly two weeks of progress moving in fits and starts, as we move camps, carry gear, and take rest days to acclimatize, the last several days suddenly start to rush by. We had a great, though very difficult, summit day yesterday. The sun shone in a completely clear, brilliant, azur sky, but as has been the nature of the last several days, the wind continued to rush on. We prepared in gusty conditions that made it uninviting to leave the tent, and donned our packs. For much of the climb we received only gusts, protected from the main force of the wind, the constant noise of which we couldn't ignore. This region has received very little precipitation for the last several years, and the results of that were the second major challenge of the climb. Where snow fields usually provide nice cramponing, only sand existed, and climbing sand hills at 22,000 feet is no small task. We persisted, and at 2:45, crested the summit of Aconcagua.
Time flies, and while that was only yesterday afternoon, it feels much further removed. We woke this morning to the ever present wind gusts plastering the tent to our face, and packed our bags to head to base camp. As we descended, we picked up the items that we had cached at our previous camps, so our packs grew heavier, even as the air grew thicker. We arrived at base camp to a delicious spread, which was followed up shortly with our first carne dinner in a while. We organized our bags for the mules, and tomorrow we will reverse our course, once again carrying light day packs as we descend the Relinchos and Vacas Valleys back towards Penitentes, and ultimately Mendoza. Everyone is excited at the prospect of more beef, wine, and warm temperatures that await us in the coming days. Thanks for following,
RMI Guides Pete, Alex, Juan and team
RMI Base, this is Alex Barber calling in with RMI's Aconcagua team. Today we moved to Camp 3 and are in place for our summit bid tomorrow morning. The team did a great job today battling the cold winds into our high camp of 19,600 feet. The team is settled in and we're preparing ourselves for the summit push. Hopefully our next dispatch will be a call from the summit of the highest peak outside of the Himalaya. We will talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye.
RMI Guide Alex Barber
All is well here in the Baksan Valley, at the base of Mt. Elbrus. We've settled into our comfortable hotel here in Cheget, which doubles as a ski town in the winter. Picture a lush green valley surrounded by many large snowy mountains!
We woke to a beautiful morning and finally we were able to get out and stretch our legs a bit. We made the most of the local ski lifts, (to save our knees of course) and hiked up the neighboring peak to start our acclimatization. It started off a little cloudy today, but eventually cleared for some decent views of Mt. Elbrus. After our ascent we headed back down to town for a nice lunch and headed over to the local climbing shop to pick up a few last minute things. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing, getting our bags packed and just wrapped up another enjoyable Russia dinner with some wonderful Georgian soup.
All is well here and we'll check in again tomorrow!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
The RMI July 18th Mt. Elbrus team led by RMI Guide JJ Justman gathered in Moscow on July 19th. The team explored the city on July 20th with a local tour guide soaking in the sites of the Kremlin, Red Square, Lenin's Tomb and more. Check out the video from their city tour.
May 21, 2014 - 10:15 pm
We rested today at the 14,000' Camp, with plans in place to move up to high camp tomorrow and go for the top on Friday. We'll see how that shakes out, as the latest weather forecast is calling for extreme winds up high for the next few days. This is a drastic change in the forecast from yesterday, which called for 10-15 mph summit winds for the next few days. If any body out there can pull any strings with the weather gods, now would be a good time.
We'll continue to keep you up to date with our progress.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
All of the the team happily and successfully stood on the “Roof of Africa” today.
Thankfully the weather cooperated and it was pretty calm most of the day. However, the recent rain/storm deposited a boat load of snow for us to enjoy. You might say the Snows of Kilimanjaro are back, but it’s probably only temporary.
We hiked up almost entirely on snow, which was a first for me. The team did an incredible job of taking care of themselves and fought hard when it was needed.
We have safely descend to our high camp where we will take a short break to eat and recharge before descending further down the mountain to our last camp on the mountain.
Yesterday’s climb took the team 8.5 hours to successfully stand on the “Roof of Africa”.
After a few photos, phone calls, and just taking in the view, the team descended back down to our high camp where we were greeted by our staff with songs and a little dance. It brought smiles and a much needed boost after all the hard work.
We then descended for about five more hours to reach our last camp on the mountain. Funny how 10,000' can feel so comfortable after such a big day.
Our final day on the mountain!
Today the team got up at 6 am refreshed after a much needed nights sleep, we had breakfast, then hit the trail one last time. It took about four hours to reach the park gate where the team had lunch and said our final goodbyes to our amazing crew of 51 that took such great care of us on the mountain.
We finished the little celebration by handing out their well deserved tips and then hopped aboard our awaiting bus for the ride back to the lodge.
Finally we are all safe and sound, cleaner, and smelling fresh after an exciting seven day journey up and down Kilimanjaro.
RMI Guide Andy Bond reported from summit of Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys earlier today:
"Hey we’re on top. 100% of the crew. Fun climb and we are heading back down to our camp at Lake Ann."
Congratulations to today's team!
Congratulations to everyone! I was sorry to read about wind and sand but share your elation at completing the climb!
Posted by: Sally Falkenhagen on 2/5/2015 at 3:43 pm
Congratulations to everyone and get back safely! Will look forward to hearing more about your accomplishment, Kevin, next time I’m in Easton!
Posted by: Jane Osman on 2/5/2015 at 4:40 am
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