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Mt. Rainier: Hoch, Whatford & Team Summit

The Four Day Climb teams led by Joe Hoch and Tatum Whatford stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:15 AM this morning!

The team left under a beautiful full moon and summited with perfect sunny skies. We also had a proposal on the summit. Rumor has it, she said YES!

Congratulations to all climbers for reaching the top of the Pacific Northwest!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Climb to Ingraham Flats

The Four Day Climb June 17 - 20 led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom, Mitch Valaitis and Arianna Drechsler enjoyed nice weather over the course of their climb but unstable snow conditions on the upper mountain prevented the team from ascending above Ingraham Flats.  The team enjoyed some additional training and spent the morning at Ingraham Flats.  They plan to descend from Camp Muir at 10 am en route to Paradise.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Message for Mitch Valaitis,
Did Joe and his guide make the summit on 6/26/24, with the high winds, clouds, and cold temperatures? I would be very interested to hear.
Regards,
Tony Keyter
Tel: 253-853-3859
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

Posted by: Tony Keyter on 6/26/2024 at 9:02 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry above Ski Hill

Saturday, June 15, 2024 - 10:02 pm PT

Another beautiful day on Denali, which started at 2:30 AM for our team. We were snowshoed up and moving uphill by 5 AM. Conditions were excellent for travel. The surface was frozen up just right and the day was cool enough to keep us from sweating as we got on "Ski Hill".  We moved well for four hours to reach 10,000' There at the head of the 49 mile Kahiltna Glacier, we dug a cache and buried our supplies to prevent attack by ravens. It took just under two hours to get back down to camp, by which time we were ready to get in the tents and out of the hot sun. We napped away the afternoon and rehydrated. Tomorrow we'll climb to 11,000' Camp.

Best Regards,

RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison and Nick Sinapius

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Father’s Day Tony and all!  Your kids will be proud of ya. Keep on trecking and know we’re thinking you from 110 degrees in sunny Phoenix.

Posted by: Mark Miola on 6/17/2024 at 9:07 am

Sounds like an awesome fathers day!! Love how you move supplies up and then go back down to camp and then head back up the next day.

Posted by: Seth Cochran on 6/17/2024 at 1:22 am


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Arrive in Talkeetna

Welcome to the first dispatch for the May 14th Denali Climb!

After a busy few days, getting to Talkeetna, and spending all day yesterday packing and preparing for the upcoming expedition, we went to bed hoping to fly the following morning.

We woke up early, called K2, and made our way to the hangar by 8 AM, dressed and ready to fly. Spirits were high, and we were optimistic. We loaded the planes and changed into our climbing gear. Unfortunately, the weather closed in on the mountain, and we entered a waiting period.

That waiting period extended into the afternoon and evening. We filled our day with a late morning coffee, walks to the river, a sanity run by Leif and me, and yet another dinner in town.

We will wake up again tomorrow and hope to fly. Until then, we enjoy the warm food and hot showers.

Cheers,

RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tim & climbing crew: Hope all is going well on your climb &/or descent -as iam just getting into the RMI blog 1st time to follow your expedition up Denali - after our Alaska Land & Sea cruise -as I took your pic down by river in Talkeetna before your climb ( 1 of the group of 14 you met )

Posted by: Pete Sturos on 6/1/2024 at 5:37 am

Good Luck and enjoy your adventure!

Posted by: Priscilla on 5/18/2024 at 8:48 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Wait on Weather at 11,000’ Camp

Thursday, May 16, 2024 1:33pm PDT

Just checking in, not too much to report. 

Winds at camp ramped up last and are strong and gusty this morning. We're hanging at 11k today and plan to move to 14k on the next good weather day.

RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

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Happy birthday Andre !
We are so proud of you and wish you to reach your goals on this trip. Come back safe, we love you.

Logan, Dereck and Veronique xxx

Posted by: Logan, Dereck and Veronique on 5/19/2024 at 6:19 am

Bonne fête André! C’est magique de fêter son anniversaire en Alaska. Profite au maximum!
☀️

Posted by: Lynda Gervais on 5/19/2024 at 5:45 am


Alaska Seminar: Elias & Team Waiting out the Weather

Good morning from The Ruth Glacier. Thirty hours of straight precipitation that started pretty much as we got to camp after summitting Mt. Dickey, kept us in our tents all day yesterday. The rain only turned into snow as the temperatures dropped with the night. We're currently waking up to a couple inches of fresh, heavy wet snow. But we are very happy! The name of the game was to stay dry and to eat good food; steak with quinoa and stir fried vegetables was an insuperable rest day dinner. Stand by to see what the weather brings today. Corell, Lucy and Elias
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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar continue training at Camp Muir

The storm hitting us at Camp Muir originated in the tropics and we wouldn't have been surprised to see palm fronds waving in the breeze given how unseasonably warm it is up here. Yes, it's still snowing, but just. And for being at 10,000' that's warm! We started our day discussing numerous topics in the Bunkhouse, but ventured out by mid morning. Equipped though we were with full on Gortex storm gear it took less than an hour for the moisture in the cloud enveloping our world to permeate the vaunted membrane of our rain gear. But we persevered and got some great training in, developing our expertise in handling running belays and evaluating snow stability through studying snow pits. Lunchtime found us back inside, thankful for the plywood protection of our bunkhouse and trying to dry out our external layers through our bodies natural internal combustion. It does work, but slowly. There was plenty to talk about through the afternoon, and when queried whether anyone wanted more outdoor training a decided no was the response. A smart group! The evening culminated with war stories of Everest and beyond. Now that we're back in our old sleeping bags the weather gods are unleashing a tempest like no other. All we can hope is that this big bad storm is blowing itself out. Dreams of a pleasant descent tomorrow morning might allow some well deserved sleep tonight. Goodnight from Camp Muir. RMI Guide Brent Okita
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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Conquer the Barranco Wall

Hello again everyone: Things are good here on Kilimanjaro and the team is doing great! Today started like the last few, beautiful and clear and then slowly clouded up as the day went on. We left camp a little later today to allow the many porters to hit the trail before us as we had our only major obstacle right out of camp. This obstacle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000 feet and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require our hands to help us climb up. The team did great and thoroughly enjoyed the challenge. After reaching the top we took a nice break but were unable to enjoy the amazing views due to the gathering clouds. Nonetheless we continued our hike for a few more hours before reaching camp. We spent the remainder of the day relaxing in our tents and playing a few games of cribbage! RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations on summiting Kiliminjaro!! That makes for a great birthday and how lucky am I
to get the phone call from the summit!! Can’t wait to talk to you, enjoy the climb down.
Megan

Posted by: Megan Martin on 9/9/2018 at 6:12 am

Wow! Great work…. I’m better at home in the Florida Keys with maximum elevation 12 feet :) Take it to the top Alysia, Emily and gang!

Posted by: Sandy Moret on 9/8/2018 at 6:13 am


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Ready for Summit Attempt

Hello again from 12,000' in Russia! Things are good here and the team is excited for tonight! We did a little prep work for tomorrow by reviewing a few climb techniques and then rested the remainder of the day. Our cook, Dasha, has done a great job of filling our bellies with plenty of good ol' home cooked Russian food. We had a thorough discussion about tonight's climb and everyone is packed up and ready. Hopefully the weather continues to hold. we'll be waking up shortly after 1 a.m. and after a quick breakfast we'll hop on the snowcat to give us a bump a little further up the mountain. This will shorten our climb a little and increase our chance of reaching the highest point in Europe. We had a trivia challenge today and one lucky winner will get to make a satellite phone call from the summit. So everyone following along, keep your phones handy, you just might receive a call. I'm expecting us to reach the summit around 10 a.m. here, in same time zone as Moscow. Keep your fingers crossed for us! RMI Guide Casey Grom and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best of luck with your skills, health and weather!

Posted by: kay nims on 7/15/2017 at 11:03 am

Go for it you guys. Casey is the best! Wishing you safe travels tonight

Posted by: John Horgan on 7/15/2017 at 8:27 am


Training with a Heart Rate Monitor

Heart rate monitors are a useful tool for planning, executing, and tracking your training. By tracking your heart rate throughout a workout, you can get a more accurate idea of the real intensity of the activity versus the perceived, and can adjust your current or future workouts to accordingly. Not all heart rate monitors are the same however, and they aren’t anything more than a tool to be more informed about the progression of your training. Smartphones can do almost everything now and indeed, some of the newest phones include a small finger scanner that can detect your heart rate. Watches have also evolved to track your heart rate from your wrist without the chest strap that used to be required, though the top models still use a chest strap, albeit with improved technology. The difference between the three styles really lies in the accuracy of the measurement. While it’s nifty to be able to see what your heart rate is on your phone, it can’t track your heart rate throughout a workout, only at discrete points in time when you choose to scan it and to be effective for training, it’s best to have a picture of what your heart rate looked like throughout the workout. Watches that measure your pulse through your wrist generally use reflected infrared or LED light to measure changes in the size of capillaries as an indication of a heartbeat. While these watches will track your heart rate throughout a workout, they tend to not be as accurate as the models that use a chest strap since you move and bounce while you exercise. Ultimately it offers only a rough picture of your pulse throughout. For an accurate idea of your training intensity, newer dedicated heart rate monitors with chest straps use conductive fabric and microprocessors that analyze your EKG, giving a detailed and accurate picture of your entire workout. What does using a heart rate monitor get you? First and foremost, a heart rate monitor gives you the ability to track your training more accurately. Heart rate monitors use versions of the 5 training zones that most athletes utilize, so you can begin to build an accurate picture of how much time you spend in each zone and how effective a given period, week, or workout might have been for you. A heart rate monitor can also help you to hit your target intensity zone for a given workout. This works in both directions; it can help you to tone it down on your long level 2 endurance training if you start to push a little hard, or it can let you know that you need to push even harder to make it to your target L4 zone on a set of intervals. Tracking your heart rate over a period of time can also give you a picture of your overall fitness. As your training pays off, your resting heart rate should drop, and you will find yourself covering more ground and going faster, but at the same intensity. Conversely, a sudden spike in your resting heart rate may indicate that your training load is adding up and that you need to focus a bit more on recovery. A heart rate monitor won’t make you fitter, but it can give you a lot of valuable information that allows you to create a more informed training plan. _____ Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
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Great

Posted by: Smith Henrry on 2/26/2020 at 12:45 am

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