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The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team trained all week to hone the mountaineering skills needed to qualify for a Denali, Aconcagua, and other big mountain expeditions. The team learned crevasse rescue, fixed line travel, route finding, and avalanche forecasting. Poor weather and high avalanche danger prevented the team from making a summit attempt via the Katuz Glacier, but the time spend training and learning the advanced mountain skills will benefit all team members on their next mountain adventure.
Congratulations Team!
We are settled in at the Cayambe hut and planning to climb tonight. It has been off and on rain and wind throughout the day, but is currently nice. We will see what we get in a few hours when my alarm goes off!
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
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Ecuador Seminar February 6, 2024
Today we woke to African birds singing in the trees and dik diks and monkeys roaming the garden-like grounds of our hotel. We got down to the business of preparing for tomorrow’s departure. But it was a leisurely business, to be sure. A morning meeting gave us the chance to get to know one another and to understand how we’ll tackle a 19,340 ft mountain together. A round of gear checks followed and the team then got into packing, sorting and organizing. We checked the weight of our bags after lunch and a bit of free time followed.
Kilimanjaro broke through the clouds in early afternoon and many of the team climbed the observation tower on the hotel grounds to get a view. Some walked into the nearby village of Usa River to stretch their legs and some napped away the jet lag. We gathered for a fine dinner together and laughed through a few shared stories and misadventures. We’ve got the morning planned out -departure at eight, Kilimanjaro awaits.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Sunday, June 16, 2019 - 10:13 AM PT
We let the snow surface freeze up a bit after dinner and left camp at 9pm, headed up the
Kahiltna Glacier with our backpacks and sleds loaded with food and supplies we'll need a we move higher. The traveling was efficient and the views were stunning as out team enjoyed beautiful pink alpenglow on Kahiltna Dome and Foraker, two neighboring giants that are dwarfed by Denali.
In three hours time we made it up to around 10,000' where we cache our gear in a hole dug deep into the snow. By 2 am, five hours after we started, we were back at our camp at the Base of Ski Hill and ready for bed.
This morning we slept in and will enjoy an extended egg and bacon brunch. Then we'll have some more resting in store as we will wait for the glacier to freeze up again in order move our camp to 11,200'.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
At high camp, I had a dream about eating cheesy hash browns and eggs. This morning, that dream became a reality. We ate breakfast burritos, lunch burritos, and dinner burritos. We lived a life of luxury that was not possible at 17,000 feet.
We also came up with a plan for the coming days.Tomorrow, half the group will walk out towards base camp and a flight towards Talkeetna. The rest of us will stay here at 14 just in case we have a summit window within the next few days. The forecast is calling for light winds this weekend, which has us hopeful. Regardless of what happens, we will certainly be eating more burritos.
RMI Guide JM Gorum and Team
Monday, May 28, 2019 - 9:47 PM PT
You never know what your are going to wake up to in the morning, but today we woke to a fresh blanket of snow and the sun trying to peak through decreasing clouds. We ate breakfast, packed our things for the day and headed to a beautiful crevasse.
Crevasse rescue was the focus of today. Everyone on the team got to feel what it is like to catch a person falling into a crevasse, to run the rescue scenario, and got to enjoy the hypnotic beauty of a crevasse as they sat in their harness looking in awe. The weather cooperated all day with bouts of sunshine mixed with light snow flurries. All in all it was a fun day. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we will see if we can go up Radio Tower. A nice objective to use some of our skills we have learned the last few days.
Adios,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Another great day in the mountains and another summit! Today the Ecuador Skills Seminar team stood on
top of Antisana, the second large objective for this trip.
Although the weather was windy and wet when we woke up this morning, we waited it out and were able to leave in decent conditions. The climbing on Antisana is quite a bit more technical than our previous peak of Cayambe, but all the training over the last few days paid off. Everyone was able to tackle the route finding, steep climbing, and exposure in good style.
We did end up climbing in to a cap on the summit, however, and everyone was covered in rime ice by the time we reached the top. Most folks had all their layers on to combat the chilly wind, but it was still fun for everyone!
Twelve hours after leaving camp we returned, and immediately got around to packing up our things and tearing down all of the tents. We traveled to a beautiful hacienda for the evening and are all looking forward to sleeping in tomorrow.
Sorry for the short post, but even the guides get tired on long climbs like today!
We'll be moving to Chimborazo Base Camp tomorrow to prepare for our third and final peak of the trip.
Until then,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt and Steve Gately and the rest of the Ecuador team!
We had a very long and successful day in Ecuador yesterday. It actually started the night before, with an eleven o’clock wake up call for an alpine start on our summit bid of
Cayambe. The weather had improved dramatically, with a starry sky, no wind, and warm temperatures. We set out from the climbers’ hut a bit after midnight and the team topped out on the summit after nearly eight hours of climbing. Challenging climbing conditions were encountered, including steep slopes and large neve penitentes.
Everyone descended safely to the climbers’ hut and soon we were bumping down the four-wheel drive road back to town. Our drive south to our current hacienda, Chilcabamba, was delayed as roads were closed for hours for the entrance of the Pope into Quito. The Pope’s visit to
Ecuador is obviously an important event, and heightened security is expected. Unfortunately for us, the timing meant we could not travel from the north of Quito to the south of Quito for hours. Our group of weary climbers finally arrived at our hacienda 22 hours after waking up to go climbing. A hot shower was about all we could muster up before hitting the sack.
After a great (but long) day yesterday, now we’re enjoying a peaceful rest day at the hacienda. Tomorrow we’re off to the
Cotopaxi climbers’ hut for another climbing adventure. We’ll be in touch…
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Today's agenda was a carry of group and personal gear to
Camp II (18,000ft) and this is personally one of my favorite days. After our carry and move to Camp I the terrain eases off a bit and becomes less cumbersome to Camp II. As the trail leaves Camp I we slowly switchback our way up the South side of a broad basin. At about 17,000ft the route hooks North and heads for a col (low spot) in between Aconcagua and fellow neighboring peak Cerro Ameghino. Once through the col the Northern expanse of the Andes unfolds and we are greeted with views of ancient glaciers and 6,000 meter peaks. The view stays much the same all the way to Camp II and the team wasn't complaining!
Everyone did great with the new altitude today though and we are now currently re-hydrating and recouping with some hot soups and a siesta before dinner. Tomorrow's agenda: REST DAY!
Stay tuned!
RMI Guide
Steve Gately and Team
Hello RMI blog groupies! Guess what?! Team 4 is resting at Camp Two at 18,000 feet on
Aconcagua! Exciting huh! After a casual morning the team talked about preparations for summit day on the 19th. We talked about what color long johns were in fashion for 2015...lime green and how to use the buff headwear in various ways...Steve's favorite...tube top!
Jenny on our team took on Adam in a new game created called Rockcci ball...don't ask, simple things confuse me. We went for a casual walk to stretch the legs and get the blood flowing. We are ready to move to high camp and the team is ready!
Let's Get it On!!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
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Happy (belated) Father’s Day to all the Dads on the climb! Hope everyone is staying warm and having a blast—views sound amazing! Since you’re having all the brunch without the mimosas, we’ll be sure to have some ready for when you return. Wishing everyone a wonderful time! :) - Savannah
Posted by: Savannah on 6/17/2019 at 2:42 pm
Glad to hear the weather cooperated for you last night. Happy Fathers Day to all the Dads up there especially Eric. We love and miss you and are having fun watching your progress. Stay safe and have fun. Love, Jack Jack, Maya, Luke, and Jill
Posted by: Jill on 6/16/2019 at 3:47 pm
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