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Posted by: Billy Nugent, Katrina Bloemsma, Billy Haas
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
We've made it to Basecamp! After three long days on the trail our team rolled on in to Plaza Argentina this afternoon in good style and in good spirits. And while we are all feeling the altitude a little bit we are no worse for the wear. We enjoyed some refreshments upon arrival from the great Grajales staff and proceeded to set up camp and get settled in after a little breather. We just finished a great meal of of soup, homemade lasagna (!!!), and flan for dessert and are getting ready to tuck ourselves in for the evening. Up at nearly 14K, it's a fair bit colder here than it was on our trek in, especially at night so we're finally putting some of our warm clothes to good use. Typically, the first night at a higher elevation can be a little uncomfortable so we'll see how everybody fares tonight. I'm sure there may be a few headaches in the group, but that's totally normal... Anyway, we're all still having fun and looking forward to a good rest day tomorrow.
All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
June 2, 2014 - 9:30 pm PT
Comfortably nestled in our sleeping bags we've been listening to the winds flapping the fabric of our tents since we put them up.
Our morning started well with clear skies all around us, except for the cloud cap over the summit. But the entire camp at 14,200' was stirring since this was one of the nicest days we've seen for a while.
The team did great breaking camp and we were the first guided group out of camp, a nice position to be in given the madding crowds that were right behind us. Everyone did well going up the fixed lines, though we could certainly feel the loads we were carrying. Unfortunately, the winds came up at the top of the ridge and didn't relent further up the Buttress, so we decided to dig in for the night here at 16,400' instead retreating all the way back to 14,200', or pushing in a head wind up to 17,200' camp. With a well secured camp here and dinner in our bellies we're looking forward to some rest and an easy day up to 17,200' camp tomorrow.
As I finish this post it seems like the winds might even be abating some. We'll touch bases again tomorrow from 17,200', hoping for some nice settled weather for a change.
Good night,
RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick
We are with you every inch of the way, willing you forward when you dont want to take another step. we know you will make it. god speed and good climbing . We love you Steven Hart
Posted by: Aida Hart on 6/3/2014 at 6:15 am
Outstanding job Daniel & Team! We are cheering you all the way to the top! We are so excited for you.
Lots of love/
Mom & Rob
Posted by: Lena Akerman on 6/3/2014 at 4:51 am
The RMI Alpine Classic team led by RMI Guide Mike Walter was unable to leave camp at Lake Ann for a summit attempt of Mt. Shuksan due to steady rain. The team tried to wait out the rain but the rain persisted. They descended to the trailhead earlier today.
Posted by: Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika reached 11,200' on Mt. Rainier today. New snow from the last few days and high avalanche danger kept the team from going any higher on the mountain. The team is back at Camp Muir and will start the descent to Paradise shortly.
Congratulations to today's team!
Congrats, Hoger (and Team)! Pretty awesome!!
Posted by: K-Man on 5/19/2019 at 9:26 am
Posted by: JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'
We got our first taste of weather today on the Stone Sentinel. It was pretty nice in the morning, with just a bit more breeze than we’ve been used to. We planned to be done with our carry and back at Camp 1 by the early afternoon to beat some forecasted weather. That forecast started to materialize as we climbed to 18,000 feet. We got slapped in the face a bit by the wind, and we were hit with some precipitation, but nothing we couldn’t suit up for and endure. We didn’t spend much time at Camp 2 today since there wasn’t much to see, and the weather wasn’t overly conducive to sunbathing.
Once again, everyone moved really well, up and down, and we were back at camp hiding from the wind by 1:30. The forecast called for snow this afternoon into tomorrow morning. I’ve never actually seen snow fall from the sky and stick to the ground in any appreciable amount here. It’s normally so dry and windy that all the snow just blows somewhere else. But, uh, it is sticking today. It is also blowing into every crevice of our tents, backpacks, and boots. Our trusty crocs are no longer appropriate footwear for lounging around camp. Thankfully we have a rest day tomorrow, so we should have plenty of time to de-snow everything. We’re all hunkered down and cozy for the night here at 16,200 feet. We’ll check in tomorrow, hopefully the sun will be out.
RMI Guides JM, Hannah & Avery
On The Map
Posted by: Robby Young, Alan Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Hello all!
Another day here in the beautiful Ishinca Valley! However, unlike yesterday’s rain and snow, today was splitter and bluebird! We took advantage of the sunshine and made our way up to the toe of the Ishinca Glacier for some on-snow training. The views of the massive Ranrapalca as well tomorrow’s objective, Ishinca, were second to none. We all got some much needed rest this afternoon, and are tucked into the tents already this evening, in anticipation of a 2am breakfast and an attempt on 18,143’ Nevada Ishinca tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guides Robby Young, Alan Davis and Peru Team ‘Con Gas’
Posted by: Robby Young, Alan Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 12,000'
Greetings from Huaraz!
Your Peru Expedition Skills crew had a full day of fun here in the beautiful city of Huaraz, Peru. Nestled in a valley at 10,200’, we set our sights higher today, and hiked above town to 12,000’ as part of our acclimatization sequence. We stimulated our muscles, and sparked cellular changes in our blood as we work towards a move to Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley (14,400’) in a few days. The views from Puca Ventana (Red Window) did not disappoint this morning. We followed our hike up with a delicious lunch at a local climber favorite, Cafe Andino. Fresh squeezed juices, Inka Kola, Burritos, and Lomo Saltado were popular choices amongst our team. The rest of our afternoon was spent perusing the narrow streets, shops, and restaurants of Huaraz (aka, the Chamonix of South America). Tomorrow, more acclimatization and prep is on the docket. Well keep you in the loop!
RMI Guides Robby Young, Alan Davis, William, and your ESS-Peru climbing team
Hi to Jen & Mark from Uncle Ric!
Posted by: Ric Meese on 7/3/2018 at 11:16 am
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Shishapangma
Elevation: 19,350'
And the progress uphill has started! We made a carry today to Depot Camp, right at the edge of the glacier, where we deposited some hardware, gas, tents, boots...Our goal is to have our kit in position where we need it, without having to carry it every time. As expected, the first venture into the 6000m vicinity was exhausting, and the "morrainy" terrain contributes to it. However making progress, laying eyes on the route, and continuing with the acclimating process is all a great payback.
Our strong Sherpa team continued until close to Camp 1 (they are the first ones to set foot on Shishapangma this season) and had success finding a good passage through the massive penitentes field that we have to cross just after Depot Camp. Imagine a moon-like area that presents some of the most intricate climbing of our route, that is what we will have to cross shortly after leaving Depot Camp.
We're now enjoying a rest while our cooks Purna and Aital finish preparing our dinner. With our yak drivers gone until our departure in a month, only another small team of 3 French and 1 Australian (with their couple Sherpa and cooks) are issued to climb here this season here. It's definitely an off the beaten path mountain!
Wishing you all well,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Art, this must surely be the climb of all climbs for you. I am practically holding my breath reading this and looking forward to the team’s daily progress. Go team!
Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/14/2016 at 5:07 am
Jarrett:
Excited to hear of your progress to the glacier. Can’t wait to hear more! The “assault” on Bonneville was mixed. We beat the old G/CPRO record but the car’s ignition system broke up at 7500 in fifth gear on the return run. Better luck on your attempt
Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/14/2016 at 3:37 am
It was worth the wait - the weather this morning was absolutely perfect and our whole team was able to ski from the true summit of Mt. Elbrus!
We woke up to brilliant stars and an impressive Big Dipper, and soon found ourselves being propelled uphill by snowcat to our starting point for the climb. Snow conditions on our ascent were a bit too frozen for skinning, so we put on boot crampons and threw our skis on our packs, moving efficiently up the well established climbing route. A long, ascending traverse brought us to the col between the east and west summits, a nice flat spot for a break.
Above the col we broke through the shadow line into the sun, and after a couple more hours, onto the summit plateau. 15 minutes later we were on top, enjoying spectacular views deep into the Republic of Georgia, and the impressive surrounding Caucasus Mountains. And then came the best part. A never-ending-feeling 6000' descent back to our camp. We had the full range of snow conditions on the way down; the last 2000' or so was pure hero snow - incredibly smooth, predictable, perfectly sun softened corn. Of all the teams climbing this morning we were the only skiers! Such an efficient way to travel in the mountains. Our team was back at camp hours before any other team.
After a few gondola rides down into the lush lowlands and a nice lunch, we're back in the village of Azau for a well earned celebration.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
June 26, 2016 - 12:13 am PT
Hey, this is Tyler Reid with the Elbrus Ski Team checking in from summit. We had an absolutely perfect morning, weather is incredible, temperatures are nice and warm, there is not a cloud in the sky and almost zero wind. So the sun is nicely softening our snow surface and we are actually going to be able to ski right off the summit which is not always possible on this mountain. So we are super psyched for our decent here the best part is yet to come and we'll check in when we get back to our camp safe and sound.
Alright, talk soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
RMI Guide Tyler Reid calls in from the summit of Mt. Elbrus.
On The Map
It’s not quite like skiing at Bogus!!
Posted by: Sus on 6/26/2016 at 7:58 am
Yes! Congratulations! Enjoy the trip down.
Posted by: Wendy Serbonich on 6/26/2016 at 7:49 am
Corell - your Arkansas boys are on the way home, tired but very content and thrilled to hear that you are successfully at base camp.. Love you!
Posted by: Thurston on 1/19/2015 at 12:34 pm
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