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RMI Guide JM Gorum and the May 3 - 5, 2019
Mt. Baker Summit and Ski Descent checked in from camp this afternoon. The team enjoyed a beautiful day on the mountain with 100% of the team reaching the summit. They enjoyed the views from the summit before pointing their skis downhill and enjoyed some awesome skiing. They reached camp in under an hour. The group will pack up camp and continue to the trail head later this afternoon.
Congratulations to the Mt. Baker team!
Today we could see the light at the end of the tunnel. By the end of the day we would be back in civilization, back using the wifi. All that stood between us was seven hours of walking and a two hour jeep ride. All went well on our walk out, besides a sprained ankle. But with a good tape job by our doctor Jorge and some ibuprofen we made it. Promptness isn't much of a thing around here, so after waiting for just over two hours our jeeps arrived and we made the bumpy ride back to our holiday inn in Talkot. Tomorrow we will take a bus back to Dahngadi where we fly back to Kathmandu. We are quite excited for our showers tonight and a bed.
What a journey,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
The
Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide JM Gorum reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team climbed well above the heavy marine layer, and reported clear skies with summit temperatures of 25 degrees and winds from the southwest of about 25 mph. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 2:43 PM PT
We awoke to a leisurely morning as we waited for our porters to arrive and collect some of our gear to bring to High Camp at
17,600’ on Huayna Potosi.
As with any big mountain around the world, weather plays a major role when attempting to summit a 6000 meter peak. With a deteriorating forecast in the coming days, we’ve decided to bump up our summit attempt to tonight!
Today we climbed a little over 1500’ to the Anselme Baud hut at the base of glacier. The hut feels similar to any European Chalet with a mixture of people from all over the world looking to climb. The crew did great getting to the hut allowing us ample time to enjoy tea, and food. Currently it’s cloudy, with no precipitation and winds are calm.
Our hope is to climb tonight before the weather turns with an approaching cold front. Forecasting weather in Bolivia is a challenge as clouds slowly build in the Amazon lowlands slowly building over the mountains. Some local guides use the sight of a certain beetle to tell when a storm is approaching. We remain optimistic that weather will hold off until Monday. We’ll keep our fingers crossed as we look to make our summit attempt tonight on Huayna Potosi.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Still at
High Camp. True to the predictions, today was a lot like yesterday. Windy, snowy, socked-in, cold and consistently poor for going places. We passed the day in our sleeping bags, with a little more frost and snow building up in the tents each and every hour. But we are still smiling. We’re fed. We’re hydrated. Well-rested, tanned and ready for action. This evening, although we are still in murk and a ground blizzard, the peaks are out. Cloud free and shining in sunlight. The forecasters back at Union Glacier tell us we are in store for rapid clearing and calming tomorrow. In which case we’ll shake off the frost and get moving again.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
No flying today, as it turned out. Clouds and snow prevailed. But as far as storms go, this one hasn’t been particularly unpleasant. The wind didn’t blow hard enough to rattle our tents overnight and with all of the cloud cover, temperatures were moderate and reasonable -probably somewhere in the teens. After breakfast, we got out our harnesses and carabiners and reviewed a few basics before roping up and marching through camp a few times. In the afternoon we set out on a mission to walk a 10 kilometer groomed circuit out in mid-Glacier. Just a day or two before we got in, this circuit hosted 50+ runners competing in the Antarctic Marathon. Inspired by these athletes, my team went the extra mile today, or perhaps four, as their guide struggled to stay on course. Conditions deteriorated with snow falling steadily and for several hours we trudged on without benefit of horizon or contrast. All allowed that it was good to be out and to be stretching legs. We were back just before dinner and felt just a bit more entitled to extra helpings and deluxe desserts than we might have without the suffering and privations of the brutal 10K track. After dinner, the briefings went as expected... conditions still did not allow for flights to
Vinson... bad weather may continue for several days. Visual Flight Rules prevail in these parts... smart people don’t mix twin otters, mountains and murk if they can avoid it. But as it turns out, there is more training for us to do at Union Glacier in relative comfort and safety.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Hannah McGowan reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team was going to spend some time on the summit enjoying the views before starting their descent.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Today was half preparation (which we've been doing a lot of lately) and then finally.... Walking uphill. We took a "shakedown cruise". Roping up and then carrying a load about half the distance to Low Camp. It was a perfect day, in terms of weather. Clear, calm conditions with bright and strong sunshine. Great for getting started. We only went a couple of hours uphill on the broad Branscomb Glacier, but as usual, the view got better and better as we went. Eventually we were getting to see the surrounding spires and cathedrals of the Sentinel Range. Mount Shinn, Mounts Epperly and Gardner.  And we couldn't miss the vertical mile of
Vinson's West Face getting gigantic in front of us. Our goals achieved at "half camp", we cached the gear and supplies and rolled on down to Vinson Base. This evening was a little easier than last night, not so hectic since the camp was already built. We're hoping everybody gets a full rest tonight, as tomorrow could be another good climbing day.Â
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Thursday June 25th 10:00 a.m. PT
RMI Guide Dave Hahn sent us a couple photos as they were embarking on their flight to
Kahiltna Base. Once the team is situated on the glacier and moved into their first mountain camp, Dave will check in with us again.
The Expedition Skill Seminar - Emmons team May 31 - 5 June led by RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli endured some epic wet weather during their six day training and climbing program. After two days of technical training and climbing school the team headed to the White River Entrance of Mt. Rainier donned their packs and climbed to the lower Emmons Glacier. The team spent two days in rainy and snow weather before descending to the trailhead and returning to Ashford. On Wednesday the team spent another day training to complete their program.
Here's hoping for better weather next time!
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Congratulations on this GREAT accomplishment to be so proud of ! Happy that you are all safe, hoping the return trip is just as good for all of you. Way to go Bob !!!!
Posted by: Barbara waugh on 8/4/2018 at 10:16 am
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