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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,200’ Camp

June 10, 2019

Posted by: Mike King, Avery Parrinello, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Monday, June 10, 2019 - 6:58 PM PT The good weather train continues to roll on Denali. If your looking at the forecast, it’s been inaccurate aside from the calm wind speeds. The Team got a good workout today as we packed up camp and moved to 14,200’ and while we did well, the higher altitude, calm air and insane heat reflecting off the glaciers gave us a good challenge. We have been moving gear, food and fuel uphill for 6 straight days and tomorrow will be no different. We will sleep in, eat a big breakfast and then need to descend 800’ and retrieve our cache. Now that we are at “Denali City” there are lots of climbers, great views of the West Buttress and the greater Alaska Range. We’ve been eating good, burritos, buffalo chicken wraps, salmon cream cheese bagels, etc. Everyone is feeling some minor aches and pains from the hard work but they are smiling and happy to be at 14 Camp to begin the climbing above here once our bodies acclimate and the weather and mountain give us the thumbs up to headed to High Camp. Thanks for following along, more from Genet Basin and the 14 Camp hang to follow. RMI Guide Mike King

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Sounds like a great adventure and challenge! Enjoy. Joe Parrinello

Posted by: Joe Parrinello on 6/12/2019 at 8:58 am

By God thats a lot of snow! Let’s go birkan!

Posted by: AlexK on 6/11/2019 at 11:29 am

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT With a forecast that hasn't been stellar, the guides woke at 2:30 AM only to see strong winds above. We continued to check for high winds until 6 am, needing to make a decision on whether to move camp or burn another weather day, we opted to pack up. Hoping for the sun to calm the wind we started out at 9 am through boot high snow, calf high snow, knee high snow and you guessed it thigh high snow. We made good time without any congestion on the route, but it was not an easy day. Once we picked up our cache at 12,500' we slogged up towards Windy Corner. Packs were heavy, sleds didn't help and the loose drifted in snow made for a tired team. We got chased around Windy Corner by a storm then promptly walked into a basin where the wind had stopped and we were quickly to hot. Today's lesson was, "learn to be comfortable, being uncomfortable". Freeze or fry is all you can expect up here, ideal doesn't exist. We will take a well deserved rest day tomorrow and maybe for the next week if the projected Pineapple Express weather front dumps 9 feet of snow. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

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Diana King here, Mike’s Mom. We to enjoy keeping up wit the Team from Atlanta. Wish he could get home more often.

Posted by: Diana King on 6/15/2018 at 2:09 pm

Robb-o!!
Sending some positive weather vibes your way!! Hope you, Cole and the rest of the team are having an awesome adventure!!
XOXOXO

Sharoni

Posted by: Sharon Del Vecchio on 6/14/2018 at 5:17 pm

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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Carries to Camp 1

August 5, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Elevation: 8,300'

First, and most importantly, we'd like to wish Kathey Uchal a very happy birthday. We hope it is a great one! We fell asleep listening to the bass tones of the nearby river last night and woke to sun early. The sun rises at 4:30 or 5:00 up here, and once out there's not much sense trying to sleep, so we crawled out, fired up coffee and breakfast, and got set for the day. With packs full of food, fuel, a spare tent and some other odds and ends, as well as our personal gear and food, we headed uphill towards camp one, in a moraine at the base of the glacier around 12,000'. Early on, the sun made its presence felt, instantly heating everyone to a rolling boil. As we climbed higher though, we made it into a nice breeze that kept things pleasant. After many hours of laboring under our loads, we arrived at Camp 1 and stashed all of our stuff. With the bulk of the work done, we turned back downhill. Mt. Elbrus wasn't done with us yet though. Half an hour into our descent, the first piece of hail fell in the rocks somewhere, probably not that near us. But then the skies opened up and it was like being brutally outmatched in a paintball game. We threw our hard shells on and beat foot downhill, running at times to escape the pelting. The hail finally let up, yielding a rainbow a few hundred yards in front of us, but no matter how hard we looked, we couldn't find the pot of gold. Back in camp, folks ducked into tents, eager to snack and recover, but then one of the Russian cooks of our outfitter came looking for Josh, wanting someone to play volleyball with. Mike and Pete couldn't resist, and joined the match too, and soon we had a decent game going. Now dinner is done, and we're back in tents eager for the deep sleep that follows a hard day of work. We'll do it again tomorrow, moving our camp to Camp 1 and continuing forward progress. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Hey Lisa and Robin - The whole gym is routing for you!

Lifting 250 or pushing 300 seems like nothing compared to what you guys are doing - best to you and all your comrades (no pun intended) - enjoy!

Cheers - Liz

Posted by: Liz on 8/8/2017 at 9:06 am

Hi Sonam
Hope you’re having the time of your life!
Everyone from Seattle says Hi!
Have a great climb!!
Mayank

Posted by: Mayank on 8/7/2017 at 4:28 pm

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Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita Sets Record with 520 Climbs

July 4, 2017

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Today marks the 520th time that RMI Guide Brent Okita has reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Brent now holds the record for the most successful summit climbs to the 14,410’ peak. The previous record holder was IMG co-owner and guide George Dunn. We are excited for Brent to be holding this record and we will be celebrating Brent and his amazing accomplishment!

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Quite an accomplishment Brent, congratulations - and many more summits.

Onward!

Posted by: -McIver on 7/7/2017 at 7:10 pm

Congrats Brent! Thanks for getting me up there with you for your #519.

Posted by: Brad Snodgrass on 7/5/2017 at 8:22 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 7, 2017 The team is still here at 14,000 ft Camp on Denali. Our snow walls we built yesterday proved to be worthy today as the winds were gusty and we had some light snowfall this afternoon. Today provided some more tent time than the last few days, discussions around dinner have evolved to what books people are reading and if anyone is ready to trade finished books. We also got crafty with building a camp game, with a sled filled with snow and some sandwich bags packed with snow we improvised the game cornhole. It became an instant hit and we might have some more time here to start a tournament! Otherwise, all is well as we wait out the windy and snowy conditions on the upper mountain. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Hi to Dear Amir and Nima and all team guide and team members,

Hoping this message finds you well. I can understand how tough it is to wait in the camp for final approach. You need to be too patient, that you are!! and keep yourself fit and safe. I don ‘t want to disappoint you but it may happen if your supplies are running rock bottom down or weather conditions are tough, your guides may decide bringing you down without going to top summing. But that’s it; at times it is the route that matters not the mere fact of reaching the goal. Stay tough, patient and safe,
Last Friday 9th of June, I climbed to Claun Bastak (CB) in Dizin area of Central Alborz, north of Tehran. CB has a height of 4300 m (we started from Dizin at 2000 m ) and when we reached summit we had the amazing view of Damavand summit, Touchal, and Alam Kuh. As it was too cold, we spent half an hour there. In the way down we had a difficult time as the route was too sharp and slippery. I have put pictures on our family account. !!
I keep my fingers crossed and pray you prevail it. But if you didn’t, don’t worry you are on the right path and on the good hands; you would be able to do it next time. Please don’t forget that it is not the goals that are important, the path towards goals are much mor fundamental and meaningful. You will accomplish it, keep your spirits and stay safe and well,
Hadi, Mitra’s father,

Posted by: Hadi on 6/10/2017 at 11:08 pm

Tym, Tyler, and Team,

Hang in there and be patient. Your time has to be coming. Keep up your spirits and know I am thinking of you here in the 90 degree lowlands of Charlotte, NC. And…Satoshi says, $2,822.00.

Love,
Mom

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/9/2017 at 3:56 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Experience Squirrely Weather

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

May 24, 2017 Well, the weather has changed, and not for the best. Wind and snow intensified this morning, so much so that we postponed our departure to retrieve our cache from 10,000' for a bit to make sure a big storm didn't move in. But the weather held off enough for us to bring our cache back to camp. Now we're set. This continually amazes me. When we got back I thought we all deserved a break, figuring an hour or two of tent time to rest up would be most welcome, 20-30 minutes later I hear most everyone out cutting blocks to beef up the walls we already had. Impressive! We're sitting pretty now, ready for anything. Should tomorrow's weather preclude a carry to cache at 13,500', that would be just fine. Everyone has been working so hard and so well that some tent time is probably in order. Even, I am looking forward to a rest day soon. And we're all looking forward to some better weather. Our peek at the mountains surrounding us last night just made us want more. Oh, and in case you were wondering what was on the menu today. Scrambled eggs, hash browns and bacon for breakfast. An assortment of Indian food, served on a bed of rice and chicken, followed by a nice pudding for dessert. Mmm. That's it from 11,200' camp. Good night. RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

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I did this route in Juky 1970 with Ray Genet. Good luck and be safe!

Posted by: William Dailey on 5/25/2017 at 5:18 pm

Keep up the good work, I am simply “blown away” by your accomplishment so far, with love,
NeeNee, JT’s grandma

Posted by: carol m smith on 5/25/2017 at 12:36 pm

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Shishapangma: Team Rests at Base Camp

September 14, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Shishapangma

Elevation: 18,400'

Hi! Not much to report today, folks. We took a rest day at Base Camp, in preparation of tomorrow's move. Packing food and gear, and rigging our ascension hardware took most of the morning. After another great lunch from our cooks, the afternoon was spent resting to tea and snacks, and even some ventured to the shower tent for the first time. The plan is to move to Depot Camp tomorrow morning and spend the night there, and then carry and move to Camp 1... the excitement is on!!! Stay tuned for our first news from the glacier, RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

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GO JARRETT! We’re all routing for you and the entire TEAM!

Posted by: kea capel on 9/15/2016 at 9:31 am

Hello, grettings from Spain!
Goog luck to al the team members!

Posted by: Martin de Andres on 9/15/2016 at 7:53 am

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Kilimanjaro: Waterfall & Team Ascend to High Camp

January 31, 2015

Posted by: Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 15,000'

Hello! We are all up at high camp as of 12:00pm our time. We had a fairly mellow hike up here today. We took another relaxed morning with breakfast at 8:00. Some excitement during breakfast came in the form of a helicopter landing in camp. It circled a few times and touched down twice. Then it stayed on the ground for a few minutes and took off again. That's the first time I've seen a helicopter on Kilimanjaro. Our hike was super smooth and everyone is doing well with the altitude. We are about to have lunch and discuss the climbing plan. After that we'll relax, get an early dinner and then wake up and climb. If all goes well, my next check in will be from the summit. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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Sending good thoughts and prayers from the mountains in Whisller to the BIG mountain in Africa. So excited for you! You are the perfect example of setting goals and coming up with a plan for flawless execution. I think John is going to write a book about it. Love you!

Posted by: Regina on 2/1/2015 at 8:43 am

Patty Kudla & Ernest Hemingway linked for eternity! Go Patty go. Can’t wait to hear that you saw the face of Africa from the top. Best to all the adventurers everywhere.

Posted by: Bill on 2/1/2015 at 8:42 am

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Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Visit the Maasai Village and Ngorngoro Crater

August 1, 2014

Posted by: Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Being on safari is nature at its most basic form. To see the food chain in the realm of nature makes you ponder on life itself. You take away a certain fresh outlook on the meaning of life on these safaris. And to see the living prehistoric creature that is near extinction, the rhino, keep the wheels spinning. We had a chilly start to the day up in the cloud forest on the flanks of the Ngorongoro Crater. We decided to stop in at a Maasai Boma or village where for 20 dollars each they gave us warmth in one of their cow dung huts with its dirt floor, no chimney, wood-burning modular homes. We got out of there pretty quickly but left with the flavor and fragrance of a life a bit different than ours. Nice folks and enjoyed the visit. The clouds eventually burnt off to a picture-perfect day in the bottom of the crater, the Eighth Wonder of the World. Yes the trigger finger took a bit of a warming up but no animal, bird, or plant escaped the lens of these safari pros. We even had some shots taken with out a memory card due to some rough roads and a bit too over excited at the chase of the perfect picture. Lots more opportunity for photos tomorrow as we move to yet another amazing park in Africa. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Settle in at 11 Camp

July 3, 2014

Posted by: Ben Liken, Dave Hahn, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Hello everyone! Today has been a day of a little work and a lot of rest. We woke up to a delightful breakfast of bagels with cream cheese and bacon and after some casual conversation it was time to go retrieve our 10,000' cache. All was well except for a minor raven attack......thankfully the only casualty was a bag of ramen noodles. It was a 3 hour round trip and before long folks were back to relaxing and drinking glacier fresh water. Our plan for the rest of the day is to keep hydrating and get ready to carry a load to 13,500 ft tomorrow. Stay tuned as we continue our slow but steady climb up this giant pile of rock and ice. RMI Guide Ben Liken

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Most Popular Entries

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,200’ Camp

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Carries to Camp 1

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Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita Sets Record with 520 Climbs

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Experience Squirrely Weather

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Shishapangma: Team Rests at Base Camp

Kilimanjaro: Waterfall & Team Ascend to High Camp

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Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Visit the Maasai Village and Ngorngoro Crater

Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Settle in at 11 Camp

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