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Saturday, June 23, 2018 - 9:47 pm PT
Greetings from Huaraz! We're happy to announce the start of RMI's fifth season in Peru with our first day of the
Alpamayo Expedition. Everyone arrived in Lima yesterday, and we did the long drive into the Andes today. The team arrived at our hotel in time to relax a bit after the long hours on the bus, and we enjoyed a nice dinner at Hotel Andino. Stay tuned for updates on our progress!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Under the shadows of the Torres del Paine towers we spent a mellow day enjoying the sights, sounds, and smells around us. Our legs and feet are all tired from the past few long days of trekking so it was nice to have a short day with a long lunch break next to a river that we plunged our feet in. Even when every muscle hurts this group still has a wonderful sense of humor and positive energy. We have a nurse from Virginia whose pack is bigger than she is but she is always the first person to throw it on and head down the trail. Her husband is an avid biker who could go for days with a few snacks, beers, and people to chat happily with. Our other cyclist could climb any mountain he put his mind to and is always up for a hill and good photo opportunity. Our honorary guide is a federal judge with a Texas accent who has joined RMI for 13 expeditions. His better half is the kindest woman who would take care of everyone else before herself. Our token Canadian has legs of pure muscle and by far the best dance moves! Our group is lucky to have a man knowledgable in everything from alpacas, to cyber security, to the history of Eastern Washington. Then we have the three giggle gals who are always ready for a laugh. One who has climbed all over and could keep up with anyone. One gal who has an amazing ability to ask insightful questions and spot all wildlife including a pygmy owl. And the last character is the best vet in Maine who can laugh at herself and doesn't let the wind push her around. Then there is me, and I'm just a simple guide who loves to walk. We are having a great time exploring Patagonia and getting to know each other.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Friday, December 15, 2017
Back in South America! It was a fine morning out at
Union Glacier. One could tell our outfitter (ALE) was anxious to get rid of the fifty odd stinky, hungry, hyper climbers in camp. The Ilyushin was off deck from Punta Arenas by mid morning and we were on it ready for take off at 3 PM. The morning at Union was wonderful, saying so long to old and new friends. Everyone commented on how long us “V1” climbers had been down (pretty far into V2) and sure, it is true... we got way behind schedule waiting for storms... but somehow today, it all seemed extremely worth the wait. Landing in rain in Punta Arenas was a novelty. Darkness was a novelty. Showers and plumbing were a novelty. Dinner together was just fun and delicious (starting at10 PM -normal for Latin America). We went to the top floor of a high hotel for a nightcap and found the other fifty climbers we’d traveled with. Lots of fist bumping, back slapping and hugging ensued. It began to crystallize... we’d lived through a great adventure together. We’ll remember it forever.
Tomorrow (later today actually) we’ll bump into each other in airports from Punta to Miami and beyond. It will be back to the same old grind... but not quite... we’ve shared enough of the good stuff in the wildest, weirdest corner of the world to make that same old grind a little finer forever.
Thanks very much for keeping track of our adventure.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
After a couple hard days of climbing we took a rest day today to acclimatize and rest up for our summit bid tonight. Everyone is doing very well and as we put the final touches on packing and organizing the excitement is palpable. It has been a calm and sunny day with the beautiful
south face of Alpamayo hanging above us.
That's all for now.
More tomorrow after our summit bid
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo Team
RMI Guide Mike Walter sent a brief note to let us know the team has reached the summit of Cayambe, 18,997'. They will send a full report after their climb.
Congratulations to the team!
On The Map
June 5, 2016 - 9:46 p.m. PDT
A clear night allowed the radiant heat from yesterday to escape, meaning quite the cool and crisp morning was upon us. When temperatures drop well below zero as they did this morning, it is another level of cold. There is a threshold where the mouths of our insulated Nalgene bottles freeze over, and our 12-liter aluminum water pots in the kitchen become lined with a thick layer of ice all around.
The clear morning lured some climbers and neighbors to break camp and begin a push up to high camp. Within a few hours though, the forecast proved accurate as
Denali began to cap over and a storm develop. Light to moderate winds here at 14 camp, but still cold and no real warming yet with increasing snowfall intensity. The "nowcast" and short lived morning sun surely tricked those climbers as they were turned around just a thousand feet up by extreme cold and back in camp by noon.
Only becoming stronger with continued acclimatization, and tall snow-brick walls fortifying the windward sides of our homestead, we are content with staying put. Our camp now sits in a wind eddy as gusts strong enough to bend trees push into our walls and curl over as we lay in the tents and nap. Nice to have spent a few days dialing in our camp! The team is ready and excited to make a move once the mountain allows, but only with a high safety margin and good style. For now though we'll keep kickin' it at camp: remodeling, relaxing, pancake eating, and cold hard chilling until the weather changes.
Also worth noting was last nights impromptu trip to "The Edge of the World". A short walk across Genet Basin brought us to an amazing vista overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier, Mount Hunter and Foraker, and a large portion of the route we traveled in the past week. Evening light and periodic clearing made for a special view. Snow crystals flickered and glittered through the gaps of misty clouds floating 5,000' above the ominous cracks and towering walls of the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Learning how to stay busy during our first real "storm day" isn't so bad!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Friday, May 29th 7:00 pm PDT
We woke early to perfect weather, packed up camp and headed to
17K. We have a good forecast and hope to summit tomorrow. We'll be in touch as our summit bid progresses.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 15th 2:30 pm PT
Overnight winds here at the 11k Camp were strong, but subsided a bit by morning. We woke early and fired stoves for a much anticipated cup of coffee...followed by a breakfast of smoked salmon, cream cheese, and bagels (it's not all about suffering up here).
Our team was ready, but the winds up above
Motorcycle Hill and around
Windy Corner, where we intend to place our cache, never subsided to levels that we were comfortable with.
We ended up taking another rest day here at 11k, which is always a good thing. Hopefully we'll be able to make our cache tomorrow. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team
May 11, 2015 11:00 pm PT
Greetings!
Warm temperatures, clear skies and pristine snow is what we enjoyed today. Our first full day in the
Pika entailed a thorough review of our different anchors, crevasse rescue systems and scenarios, and a tour of the glacier to check the approach to our upcoming routes. Keeping a close eye on the ravens, whom are after our kitchen and tents, we enjoyed a massive production of tortellini at dinner. This will fuel us for our first objective tomorrow, when we'll try our first summit while mastering transitions, protection and descents on rock and snow.
Best regards,
RMI Guides
Elias,
Andy, and
Sean
Hey all,
Today was a beautiful day in Quito, with majestic views of
Cayambe and Cotopaxi it couldn't have been better. We started off with some strong coffee and promptly piled into some taxis to head to the gondola that would take us to 13,000 feet. From here we hiked to the top of Rucu Pichincha at 15,696 ft, everyone did great managing new altitude and rugged terrain.
Upon our return to the city we did some final gear shopping, resting, and eating. This will be our last night in Quito before we venture out to the country side for some more adventure.
Stay tuned!
RMI Guide Ben Liken and the crew
On The Map
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Looks like a serious adventure. Good luck from here on up!!!
Tim
Posted by: Tim on 6/28/2018 at 12:44 pm
Hi Kim, Great to know that all your travels went fine. We are excited to follow the updates daily on the RMI blog. Travel safe & stay well! Much success to you & the team on your upcoming adventure!!! Love, Dad
Posted by: SHEL on 6/24/2018 at 1:20 pm
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