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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Burns and Team Ascend to 11,000ft Camp In a Cloud

May 21, 2025

Posted by: Seth Burns, Jackson Breen, Raymond Holt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska

Elevation: 11,000'

Tuesday, May 20, 2025 - 9:52 pm PT

Dear Baby Winter,

Just like in the book that we read before coming out here, “Oh the Places, You’ll Go,” today our group walked through an area that I can’t wait to tell you all about. We started this morning not entirely sure if we were going to continue up today due to the weather being a little iffy but Seth made the call for us to venture out with the goal of reaching 11,000' Camp. The walk up was incredibly challenging, the combination of wind and snow with weighted packs and sleds, made this climb like nothing I’ve ever done. The weather created what seemed to be a complete white out, like walking through a cloud. With only being able to differentiate by looking around at my fellow climbers. Thinking of you and your mother pushed me forward and most importantly our excellent guides kept us safe while out there. Each day that I’m here, Denali continues to teach me something that I hope to one day hand down to you and that’s that sometimes the most rewarding moments in life, are the ones that you’ve earned through working for them. Now it’s time for a hot meal, we’re having ramen tonight, cant wait! I miss you more than words will allow.

Love Dad (Juan)

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Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith Reunite with Team & Gear

October 22, 2018

Posted by: Hannah Smith

Categories: Guide News

Snug as a bug under a rug, 10 of us slept in a small room. Last night having arrived to the village in the dark with no gear, a tea house took us in. They fed us Dhal Bhat and tea, and gave us their extra room with blankets for us all to sleep. It was a fun little slumber party. We woke casually this morning and fired up the one stove I had to make our coffee. We then ate our breakfast, a bowl of ramen, and did some laundry. After wandering the village for an hour, we could see the rest of our team, and porters arriving with all the gear. We told our story about our night and settled in. The rest of the day we are taking time to ourselves to read and write. Jorge one of the team members, is a doctor is Spain and is setting up a medical tent. He will see the villagers and give them needed medicine, such as vitamins, antibiotics, and pain killers. This will be the first time many of these people have seen a doctor. As for now, We enjoy the last few hours of sun and will get ready for more walking tomorrow. Adios, RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So awesome! Go ladies!
Uncle Mike

Posted by: MIKE SMITH on 10/23/2018 at 5:40 am

You guys are troopers! How kind and wonderful are the Nepalese people.

Posted by: Michelle the mom on 10/22/2018 at 9:04 pm

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Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team Fly to Dhangadi

October 18, 2018

Posted by: Hannah Smith

Categories: Guide News

Namaste Everyone! Today is a day that will never be forgotten. It started early in the morning as we made our way to the airport. We boarded the plane for a 50 minute flight. The views were amazing! The Himalayas are so magnificent...it sparks a desire to climb out there. Upon arrival to Dhangadi we were greeted by the Chaliya dance. A dance blessing the Burga Goddess, to give us all power. We then engaged in three more welcoming celebrations, one by the Minister of Tourism, another by the Prime Minister of the region, and the final one by the town of Khodpe where we are spending the night. With music, dancing, scarves, lays, and red smears on our foreheads it was an experience like no other. After many hours on the windy mountain roads with the drivers laying down their horns to signal we are coming around the blind turn we are ready to get some sleep before another day of driving and celebrating tomorrow. Goodnight everyone, RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Denali Expedition: King & Team Back Carry and Return to 11K Camp

June 10, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 3:08 pm PT Clouds and snow moved in last night just prior to dinner. We had the chance to see our 2 RMI Teams who had been on the summit Friday and get some route info. The snow continued through out the night with minimal accumulation. When we woke, there were faint views of the surrounding peaks and ridges. After breakfast we roped up and walked down to our cache at 9700' and dug up our food and supplies. There has been a low pressure system moving in from the North and being near the demarcation line was quite stunning. As we turned the corner onto the Kahiltna Glacier, we could see clouds rolling over Kahiltna Pass and Kahiltna Dome while the view South was blue skies and calm weather. Soon we were engulfed in the clouds and light snow for the walk back to 11,000' Camp. Now we are back in our tents listening to snow fall and enjoying the warmth of the sun trying to cook through the clouds. The Team is doing well, we are hopeful that the winds stay calm so we can carry around Windy Corner or even into Fourteen Camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike King

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job everyone and hi dad (David McCampbell)! Keep up the great work. Loving these updates!
-Patti

Posted by: Patti Van Lange on 6/10/2018 at 9:56 pm

Hi JT-

My dad and I had a JT Type 2 day of fun just for you.. Sixty-two miles in the pouring rain. We hope you are enjoying your time up there! The pictures are beautiful! Sending big hugs from the Emmer family!

Maddy

Posted by: Madeline Emmer on 6/10/2018 at 8:38 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Full Rest Day at 11,000’ Camp

May 31, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT After yesterday's big effort, it took some snow and evidence of wind at Windy Corner to decide to take a full chill day at our 11,000' Camp today. Food, movies, books, and naps filled the time, and left little room for anything else. We are feeling good about a move to 14,000 ft Camp tomorrow, and after today, everyone is excited for a change in scenery. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Rich aka dad,

You’re almost there! Keep it up. Been enjoying watching the blog and your climb. Love you and can’t wait to hear all about it!!

Posted by: Eleni Lewis on 6/5/2018 at 6:13 am

Way to go Rich and team-have a good rest and safe ascent!

Posted by: Keith Salzman on 6/1/2018 at 4:53 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team’s Moving Day

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 7,300'

Monday, May 28th - 8:10 pm PST We woke up to more sunshine and the smell of bacon on the Kahiltna. After breakfast burritos browned to perfection by Lucas, we packed up camp and took off down Heart Break Hill. Named for its uphill torture on the way back to the airstrip. Everyone reported feeling "great!" after the descent. But then we started the glacier slog with heavy packs and sleds. The next break the team reported feeling "good." After another two hours the team asked, "So, where is camp?" We pulled into a perfect camp in Farine Basin and got to work excavating the glacier and flattening our sleeping nooks. Now it looks perfect for the night. The team is doing well and showed their strength by building camp in good fashion after a long day. If this good weather holds, we'll attempt to climb Farine Peak tomorrow. RMI Guide Christina Dale

Shuksan: Nelson & the Expeditions Skills Seminar Check in

September 20, 2017

Posted by: Chase Nelson, JM Gorum, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

This is Chase and team checking in from the Sulphide Glacier! After three days of almost constant snowfall we finally enjoyed a bit of a break in the weather and even had a few hours of sun. About a foot of snow has fallen since our arrival but the training has continued as planned. Tomorrow we're going to venture higher up towards the pyramid and see if conditions are suitable for a summit attempt. We'll check in tomorrow afternoon! RMI Guide Chase Nelson

Mt. Rainier: August 31st Summit!

August 31, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Jess Matthews reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Tyler reported clear skies and light winds of about 20 mph. The team will spend some time on the summit enjoying the views before heading downhill. Congratulations to today's Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome! Can’t wait to hear about this amazing adventure. See ya soon.

Posted by: Pete on 8/31/2017 at 6:14 pm

Nice job ladies! I never had a doubt. Can’t wait to hear about the adventure!

Posted by: Dave on 8/31/2017 at 4:10 pm

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Peru Seminar: 100% to the Top of Ishinca!

August 12, 2016

Posted by: Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 18,143'

After a couple rainy nights, we weren't sure what hand the weather gods would deal us this morning for our Ishinca summit push. When the alarm rang, we zipped open the tent door. We were elated to see blackness punctuated only with gleaming stars - not a cloud in the sky! Our team got ready after an incredible breakfast of pancakes with banana compote and started walking under a blanket of stars. As we approached the glacier, sunlight illuminated Ranrapalca, the biggest peak to our south. We transitioned to crampons and tackled the Penitenteied glacier. After an hour of weaving through the rough surface, the snow smoothed out and got steeper on the summit pyramid. The climbing was great and our team navigated the steep final pitch and large crevasse to gain the summit. The entire team made it in good style! The weather held out all the way back to camp too! Everyone is looking forward to a well deserved rest day tomorrow. RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats on the safe summit! Looks like the weather cooperated and was a great view! Enjoy! Eli

Posted by: Eli Zygmuntowicz on 8/13/2016 at 7:54 pm

The starlit dome must have been amazing. Vicariously enjoying your expedition pictures.Love and strength to all…Phil and Laurie Brandau

Posted by: phil brandau on 8/13/2016 at 11:01 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Watching High Winds Blow Above the West Buttress

May 21, 2016

Posted by: Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

May 21, 2016 - 7:25 pm PT We spent another day here at 14k. Today the weather at camp was quite pleasant, with periods of sun and just some light wind. Up above on the West Buttress, where we are hoping to climb, the strong winds persisted today. We'll see what tomorrow brings, as the weather forecast is still calling for high winds the next few days. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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