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One of the days we were waiting for. It was obvious from the start (10 AM) that this was our day to move up to High Camp. Skies were brilliant blue, peaks were clear of cloud caps, and little wind could be detected off the High Camp ridge three thousand feet above us. By midday we’d spoken to Vinson base and learned we had the forecast in our favor as well -conditions improving on each of the next two days. That could work out well. It wasn’t actually so nice down at Vinson Base Camp... they were in fog and murk and couldn’t get airplanes in or out. We left Low Camp -which had been our home for six nights- at 12:42 PM. Having the fixed ropes to ourselves was pleasant in a lot of ways, but it was still uphill forever and our packs were heavier than when we’d gone up for our carry. As we neared High Camp at 6:20 PM, the “wind” was about three miles per hour... but that little bit of movement reminded us quickly just how cold the air was (likely 10 or 15 F below zero). We built our tents and ate dinner while strategizing over a summit bid tomorrow. It would be tempting to stay out in the late night sunshine looking over “the edge” for hours (one hundred feet from our tents is the upper rim of the great western escarpment of Vinson) the peaks are jagged and vivid, the backdrop is an endless sea of clouds and ice... but we’ll stare at it all some other time. Gotta get our sleep. Big day coming up.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Sunday, July 8, 2018 - 3:32 AM PT
The team woke... slowly, at 11,000 this morning. Everybody remarked on the value of low altitude slumber. We ate and determined to get lower in honor of the former “tropical storm” headed our way. By this morning, we were the only team left on Denali. While it wouldn’t be quite “normal” to take on the lower Kahiltna Glacier in July during the afternoon, we decided that a try was in order. The inbound storm was a definite- and it was clear it would be snowing hard for days on end... incompatible with both climbing and flying. So we pulled down Camp at 11,000' by 11:45 AM and got moving with heavy packs and sleds. Conditions were just plain easy to the base of Ski Hill at 7,800'. And then -although we crossed a few spooky snow bridges, things were phenomenally well put together for July 7. We made fine progress to the base of Heartbreak Hill. And although our last 1.5 hours was uphill, it was free of dicey bridges and nervy crevasses. Base Camp was gone at this late date... we passed on to the traditional late season upper strip 20 minutes farther along, reaching it at 7:30 PM. K2 Aviation already had planes in the air for us as they were anxious to beat the storm for our extraction. As we crossed the range, we saw the weather moving in while our ski otters dodged cloud after cloud. We landed in Talkeetna at 9:15 PM and raced to dinner in our mountain clothing, trying to beat closing times in the conventional world. In town, we caught up with all of the neighboring teams from the past three weeks and shared escape stories. We’re all full of amazement and admiration for the mountain that we didn’t climb, but also great satisfaction for the climb that we did have together.
Thanks for keeping track of us... until the next climb.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
After a relaxing stay at the hacienda Chilcabamba, we are all packed up and heading for Cotopaxi, the stunning 19,347’ stratovolcano that is our main climbing objective. We will drive a dirt road that winds through Cotopaxi National Park to an altitude above 15,000’. A 45-minute hike will lead to the climbers’ hut, which sits near the toe of the glacier just shy of 16,000’. The goal of today is to arrive at such high altitude accommodations feeling good, resting, and adjusting to the altitude. Tomorrow we will hike to the Glacier and review the climbing techniques we will employ on the climb the following morning.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'
Saturday, June 16, 2018 - 8:47 PM PT
We thought we’d take advantage of the 24 hour light to catch up on our sun tans today and decided to stay put. Between the umbrellas in our Espolón drinks and the Hawaiian shirts, it was well worth it! Alright, I guess that’s only half true- we did in fact stay put, but unfortunately it was hardly a choice- strong winds and precipitation continued through the night and all day. It seems Mother Nature is in a fighting mood! It’s a good thing we built such high walls! Even still, the snow is piling up and nearly spilling over. We’ve got a whole crew of superstars though and we’ve gone all hands on deck to reinforce our camp a couple times throughout the day. Between shoveling frenzies, we spent the day laughing in the kitchen tent, napping, sport eating, and marveling at how quickly our outhouse keeps filling in with snow. Spirits are high despite the hard work required to thrive in conditions like this, and the whole team is currently snuggled up in big sleeping bags and down booties. The storm is forcasted to begin clearing tomorrow, but unfortunately that could mean anything here in Alaska.
For now rest assured we’re hangin tough and taking care of each other.
With love,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the Super Crew
On The Map
Waiting is always hard but having a fun, supportive team around you makes it easier. Sounds like a lot of snow even for a Colorado transplant. All of us back home are cheering for you.
Posted by: Nancie Summerlin on 6/17/2018 at 5:32 pm
Stay strong. Enjoy each other’s company. Laugh. Work hard. Take in every moment no matter what. Be safe. Know that you are loved. Love you Shannon. Mom.
Posted by: Linda Walsh on 6/17/2018 at 4:32 pm
Posted by: Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
This is Mike checking for the last time. The Team finished the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu today and we're fortunate to see the sunrise over the Citadel from the Sun Gate.
It is always a bit of a culture shock when you have spent 5 days hiking in the remoteness of the Andes and arrive at Machu Picchu where some 3000 people visit each day. Today was a light traffic day and we enjoyed a 2 hour tour of the highlights. The scale and shear amount of earth moved leaves people speechless.
The Team is currently at the hotel and enjoying some rest after a hot shower. They will have tomorrow morning to visit the site before we catch our train back to Cusco via the Urambamba River valley and high plateaus. Our trip will culminate with 1 last day seeing some more Incan sites around Cusco. Thanks for following along and RMI's next Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu is July 2018, come join us!
Posted by: Tyler Reid
Categories:
We had a great first day with our crew, stretching our legs on a city tour of Moscow. Our guide Victoria took us on a circuit of the Kremlin, Red Square and St. Basil's Cathedral, after which we enjoyed a nice lunch at "the restaurant of many menus". All is great with us.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Kerry!!! Wish I could be climbing next to right now! ...and not just to carry your tent ;) Also, so far all the comments are for you. Did you send out bribes because I didn’t get my share? I’m on venmo.
You got this! Can’t wait to see you on the summit.
Posted by: Brandon Fleck on 6/20/2017 at 10:17 pm
Miss and love you so much! Good luck on the climb. Stay safe. Say hi to Allison!
Posted by: Diane Hermann on 6/20/2017 at 9:10 pm
This is Mike and JM checking in from our Camp 2 after a good carry to Cholera High Camp located at 19,600'. The camp gets its name from the wind that swirls around and attempts to destroy your camp.
The Team took in fantastic views of the Andes and enjoyed some warmer temperatures after yesterday's cold and blustery conditions. There is some sort of an Andean hawk that has been hanging out taking people's Oreos.
Quite and calm in our tents, an update you might be tired of reading but the Team is taking every moment of available rest to apply towards summit day.
Tomorrow we move up to Cholera and will keep our fingers crossed for accurate weather reports and a trail of compacted snow to the top of the Southern Hemisphere!
RMI Guides Mike King & JM Gorum
On The Map
Good weather and safe travels on summit day
Posted by: Mark and helen on 1/12/2017 at 11:39 am
Best wishes to you guys and praying for clear and good weather to the summit.
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 1/12/2017 at 8:03 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Bridget Belliveau, Hannah Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
July 2, 2016 - 11:13 pm PT
It wasn't really supposed to be a perfect day. It was still snowy and socked in yesterday evening, the forecast called for the same thing it always calls for -more snow- but when we poked heads out of tents this morning for a 7 AM check.., it was perfect. No clouds above and no sign of wind on the crest of the West Buttress. It was about as cold as we've been though, getting up and fed and ready in the shadows. The sun doesn't hit 14 camp until 9:20... Which is when we started climbing today. Things were slightly tougher because we did a fair amount of breaking trail uphill through new snow, but there were a couple of other climbers out who seemed determined to stay ahead of us -so that helped. We took two breaks before the start of the steep "fixed rope" section of the climb. Most had been looking up for a few days and wondering how we'd get up something that appeared to be so difficult from afar. It still looked hard from close up, but we did it anyway -step by step. We topped out at the magical little notch in the ridge at 16,200ft to find magnificent views and a steady zero miles per hour in the wind department. It was tough climbing, most said... but they said it while grinning from ear to ear. Five of our twelve climbers broke altitude records today. We dug a raven-proof hole in the snow and cached supplies. Then it was back down the ropes, saying hello to several groups still on their way up to sleep at high camp (17,200ft). It was hot and still on our way down, but our packs were light and the distances were small. Clouds had formed up and we were enveloped by them before we reached 14 camp at 4:15PM. Sure enough, it started snowing lightly as we climbed in the tents for a rest. A few hours later, it was still snowing but we were sheltered in our dining tent, eating dinner and talking about another great day in the mountains.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
We are cheering you on from Alabama! Praying that the weather cooperates and the team has a safe journey to the top and back!! See you soon David! We miss you!
Posted by: teresa on 7/5/2016 at 6:47 am
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Katrina Bloemsma
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 9,000'
¡Hola de Pampa de Leñas! After a last night in a real bed we got outta Penitentes and hit the trail. Needless to say the team is psyched to finally be on the move after the months of anticipation and the seemingly endless packing and repacking. We enjoyed clear skies and a decent breeze that despite kicking up a bit of dust was actually pleasant in keeping the temps manageable. Everyone moved extremely well and is currently lounging around camp waiting for the herrieros to finish up grilling up some giant slabs of beef for us. Steak and wine, and a crew of happy campers. Not bad for our first day on the hill.
All for now!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Hi Heather and all of you up there.
Sorry to hear about the weather. The New Yorkers have been hit by heavy snow and the weather system is heading to us across the Atlantic but will change to strong winds and heavy rain for us this week. Not quite as bad as you are getting.
Stay positive and try and meditate if the storm noise allows!
Love Diane and Paul
Posted by: Paul and Diane on 1/24/2016 at 11:13 pm
The tough part begins - our thoughts are with you - stay safe
Love you,
Dad & Luz
Posted by: Dad & Luz on 1/16/2016 at 5:07 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Leon Davis stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Mike reported great weather with no clouds and light winds. The teams began their descent at 7:45 am. We look forward to seeing everyone back in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations Climbers!
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WOW. PICS ARE AMAZING.
THANKS.
STAY SAFE, WARM as can B
Posted by: Bill Osten on 12/9/2018 at 12:58 pm
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