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Peru Seminar: Davis and Team Summit Ishinca

July 14, 2022

After waking to wild horses outside our tents in search for scraps, we gulped down some coffee and porridge and began walking uphill in the cold of the night at 2:00 a.m. We made the toe of the glacier by 5:30 a.m. and donned our crampons and climbing gear. Due to the melting out of the glacier we attempted a new route over a rocky ridge where we began climbing two pitches of firm nevé to the cruzy glacial traverse toward the steep summit ramp. The team dug deep through the heat of the morning and reached the summit of Ishinca where we were surrounded by cobalt skies and beautiful snowy peaks. Back at camp, the team was tired and ready for bed. We enjoyed fresh avocado salads and asada then quickly got horizontal under a clear starry night. Ready for a well deserved rest day tomorrow!

RMI Guide Alan Davis and Team

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Sherpa And The Culture Of Nepal

Sherpa. It's a name that we hear with increasing frequency in popular diction worldwide. But who are the Sherpa, and the sherpa, for that matter? The answer to this is as complex as the country in which they reside. Let's begin with a bit of context. The nation of Nepal, one of the poorest in the world in terms of per capita GDP, is arguably one of the richest in terms of geographic and ethnic diversity. A mere 54,000 square kilometers (about the size of Illinois), it ranges geographically from the tropical Indo-Gangetic plains (Terai) in the south to the crest of the Great Himalaya, the highest mountains on earth, in the north. So short is the span from low to high that one can literally sit on the back of an elephant in the Terai, gazing at endangered rhinos, and see, some 90 miles distant, the snowy crest of the Himalaya rising above the haze of the tropical plains. Not to be outdone by its geography, Nepal's human diversity is rich and complex as well. In its small footprint reside some 25 million people from 36 different ethnic groups speaking 36 (or more) different languages and dialects. From the Indian ethnicities of the Terai to the Tibetan peoples of the mountains, the Gurkhas of the center to the Lepchas of the east and the Thakurs of the far west, the countryside of Nepal rings with diversity. The Sherpa, so often discussed if not totally understood, are one of these many ethnic groups in Nepal. Crossing over the high Nangpa La (Pass) some 700 years ago from Tibet, the early Sherpa nomads found in the Khumbu Valley a rich region with lush vegetation, flowing rivers, and the possibility of a life far easier than their nomadic one in Tibet. They settled in, making the valley which drains the slopes of Everest their home. When asked who they were, the early Sherpa would reply, as is common in Tibet, with the region from which they came. Their answer: Shar pa, or "east people." Nomads originally, the Sherpa had come with their yak across the plains of Tibet from the eastern edge of the Plateau, perhaps near Kham. Over time, shar pa turned into Sherpa, their tribal name, and also last name. Centuries later, when the first Western explorers began their attempts on the high Himalayan peaks, they employed Sherpa as porters to help move equipment on the mountains. From George Mallory to Sir Edmund Hillary to our First Ascent Team, the Sherpa - strong, hard-working, ever-friendly, impeccably kind and loyal - have been a mainstay of Himalayan climbing, with only a small handful of teams getting anywhere in the high peaks without the hard work, diligence, and dedication of these remarkable mountain people. So deep has been their connection to mountain climbing in the Himalaya that the ethnic name Sherpa has come to mean any Nepali who works in the mountains. However, not every sherpa is, in fact, a Sherpa. Confused? Our team of Nepalis, our sherpa, hail from no less than 4 different ethnic groups: Rai, Gurung, Tamang, and, of course, Sherpa. All have vast experience: Maila Tamang, Camp 2 cook, with several expeditions and one summit of Everest under his belt Nima Dorje Tamang, hoping for his 4th summit of Everest on this trip Kumar Gurung, a veteran expedition cook since 1994, on his 15th Everest expedition Damber Rai, a seasoned mountain man, on his 7th Everest expedition All these men, Tamang and Rai, Gurung and Sherpa, work hard, day in and day out, and all are contributing deeply to our efforts on the mountain, just as they are for the 30-some-odd other expeditions on Everest this spring. Simply put, we couldn't do it without them, and our thanks are beyond words. Dhanyabhad.
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Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Ascend 1,200ft Barranco Wall

We pushed back our wake-up and starting times this morning in order to let a few of the surrounding teams get out on the trail first.  The Barranco Wall has a few tight passages along rock ledges where we’d just as soon miss the traffic jams.  That meant a leisurely pace to rolling out of bed and packing up.  It was cool in the shadow of the mountain though, and a relief -during breakfast- when the sun hit. We marched toward the base of the wall at 9 AM with perhaps a few butterflies in some stomachs as folks wondered how it would all work out.  From below, the Great Barranco Wall looks very much like a Great Wall… intimidating.  But as we started winding up the trail and came to grips with the tricky parts, most began to relax. Our local guides -John, Tom, Naiman and Philibet were at every difficult move, pointing out hand and footholds and managing porter traffic.  Before long we’d cruised past the narrowest ledges and gotten to easier -though still steep- trail sections in the middle of the wall.  There were still a few places requiring both hands on the rock near the top, but then we popped out onto flat ground about 1200 ft higher than where we’d begun.  We took a well-deserved break and snapped a few pictures of the spectacular South Face of Kilimanjaro.  The rest of the walk to Karanga was easy in comparison to the Wall.  Just a few valleys to traverse, and lots of sights to see as much of the lower cloud melted away.  We sat down to lunch in our new camp at 13,100 ft.  The afternoon was a chance for resting and rehydrating.  As the sun set, John -our lead guide- led the team in an impromptu dance session on the concrete heli-pad adjacent to camp.  We sat down to dinner in our well lit dining tent and then came out to another beautiful night scene, this time with the lights of Moshi (the city at Kili’s Southeast corner) spread out far below. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Happy Anniversary, my love. I would do it all again. You make everything better.
Our life of Adventures and Oatmeal is perfect.

Blow me a kiss and then go to bed, tomorrow is going come fast!

So proud of and stoked for you.

John

Posted by: John GILMAN on 8/20/2022 at 7:57 am

You all are amazing!

Posted by: Diana Lowe on 8/19/2022 at 1:01 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Ready to Hit the Trail

Well, we have finally made it to Penitentes and finished packing up all of our junk that we'll need on the mountain for the next few weeks. The loads are readied for the mules to shuttle into basecamp for us and we are all very excited about hitting the trail tomorrow! After a quick breakfast this morning at our hotel we headed out in Mendoza to pay for and secure the paperwork for our climbing permits. What sounds like an easy task is actually not so simple when you have to run all over town to complete each stage of the permitting process in a different building across town. Luckily for us everything went off without a hitch and after running a few more errands the team was checked out of the hotel and headed out to Penitentes where we have been staging for the rest of this afternoon/evening. Tomorrow we´ll leave the loads for the herrieros (muleteers) and catch a shuttle out to Punta de Vacas which is our trail head at the mouth of the Vacas Valley. The weather thus far has been quite comfortable so we´re hoping that it can hold for a few more days affording us a nice walk in to Aconcagua Basecamp. That´s all for now, we´ll check in via satellite phone tomorrow evening from our first camp along the approach. RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, and the rest of the crew.
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Sending my best fro great weather and exciting hike!

Posted by: Sharon Clarke on 2/2/2012 at 6:41 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams On Top!

The Four Day Climb with RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Joe Hoch reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 5:30 am. Henry reported clear skies with steady winds of 20 mph. The team is on the descend and in route back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations Team! 

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So proud of the entire group, especially our dad Srinivas, for accomplishing this major goal of his. We love you and are so proud of you!

Posted by: Sanjana, Sumedha, Amrutha on 7/9/2022 at 10:32 am

Thank you coach for taking care of my husband and bringing him down safe. I’m so proud of you Rahul ♥️

Posted by: Gayatry on 7/9/2022 at 9:56 am


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Reach Ama Base Camp

We made it to Ama Dablam Base Camp! Right on time for lunch, the team pulled into the little hut (we're avoiding tents at the base of the mountain) and we have been just resting, hydrating and eating. We're motivated as acclimatization seems to be doing its job, and we're expectant to see what the weather brings in. In the mean time, tomorrow we'll be on schedule resting and practicing our ascending techniques here at Base Camp, and allowing our bodies to "do their thing in getting themselves ready" RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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Good luck to all!

Posted by: Beverly on 11/12/2018 at 1:21 am

Elias,
We are close by having just finished Mera Peak!! Good luck to you and team.  And from one Spaniard to another remember…....You have to make sure you look good!
Gene

Posted by: Gene Limia on 11/12/2018 at 1:16 am


KILIMANJARO: Grom and Team Climb up to Shira Plateau

Hello again Everyone,

It’s been a bit cloudy the last few days, but the team awoke to beautifully clear skies and views of Kilimanjaro looming above us.

We started our day with fresh fruits, eggs, porridge, and plenty of coffee, before setting off on our second day. The trail out of camp slowly ascends through the last remaining trees and makes its way along a rocky ridge that climbs up onto the Shira Plateau. We hiked a little more that 4 hours to reach our next camp arriving shortly before the clouds returned.

Everyone enjoyed the warmth of the sun and the views of the valleys below as we climbed steadily up Kilimanjaro.

We are currently relaxing in our camp enjoying good conversations and stories from team members.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew!

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Cory, if you make it to the top I got corn dogs and a case of Summit for you when you get back.

Posted by: Bo on 9/16/2022 at 8:44 am


Vinson Massif: Moving Up

We made the big move up from Low Camp to High Camp today. The team climbed well and strong... getting the job done in a little over five hours. But it wasn't easy, by any means. A cold wind hit us just above the top of the fixed ropes and then harassed us all the way into camp. That made for some cold campers, initially, but we got a few tents and a kitchen built and life got better, the way it always does when such things are around. The teams that we flew onto the mountain with managed to summit today -the storm hit some of them on their way back into camp but they coped well, for all we could tell. Of course our hope is that wind and clouds will flee in time for us to enjoy a Christmas summit of Mount Vinson, but we shall see. If we have to give the storm a day or two to pass through, we can do that as well. A Christmas spent napping in a warm sleeping bag alongside friends is not a terrible thing. We just hope Santa will find his way into the chimney on these tents without too much difficulty. Merry Christmas from the Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, 12,600 ft up on the Vinson Massif, deep in the heart of Antarctica. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Merry Christmas!

Posted by: michelle on 12/25/2012 at 2:11 am


Mt. Elbrus: Van Deventer & Team Descend to Base Camp

The mountain time is coming to a close. We managed to get everything stuffed into, tied to the side, or strapped under our packs and split freedom the moraine camp this morning. Loads were heavy, but we were moving with gravity, and we made it to base camp nice and quickly. It's only been a week up high, but after a week if rocks and glacier, the green of plants down low looks like it was done in technicolor. Base camp comes with perks: pizzas, caucasian pies, and cold fantas, cokes, and beers. We took the afternoon to sort gear back into duffels to be better set up for our coming flights, soak feet in the mineral springs, and enjoy a last bit of the mountain. The vans will be here in the morning for us and before we know it, we'll be back in town. The trip is not over though. Still to come, adventures in Kislovodsk and St. Petersburg. RMI Guides Pete, Mike, and team we're psyched to be done with boots
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Great job Marcky-poo! Cant wait to have you back at my place. Miss you and love you!

Posted by: Lindsey on 8/15/2019 at 10:09 am


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Climb to 13,400ft, Return to 11,000ft Camp

Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 12:01 am PT

What do motorcycles and squirrels have in common? They’re both steep hills we climbed on our way to cache our gear at 13,420 feet! From our cache we gained our first views of the fixed lines up to 17,000' Camp and the Messner Coulior. We descended with light packs enjoying the sunshine with beautiful views of the lower Kahiltna flowing south and green tundra stretching as far west into the distance as the eye can see.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

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E-L-L-I-O-T

DAMN, hope your were able to fit your snowboard in your pack; STUNNER!

Definitely rarified air.

Let the journey be the focus.

Belgian Ales @ Hopleaf await.

I just can’t grasp why you haven’t been texting me lots of pictures - ha!

Love ya, my Brother

ET

Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 5/26/2021 at 5:05 pm

WOW Heidi!  We think we spotted you in this most recent photo!  I shared your whole expedition thus far during homeroom with the third grade.  They loved it. 
I hope you packed enough chapstick.  That wind looks fierce.  Keep on doing awesome!  Kirby says you are a BEAST!

Posted by: Allison santana on 5/26/2021 at 10:41 am

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