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Mt. Elbrus: Van Deventer & North Side Team Depart Base Camp, Return to City Mode

Thursday, August 15, 2019 - 8:32 PM PT We are out of the mountains! It took a little extra time to make it happen. One of the vans apparently broke down on the way to get us, necessitating a return to Kislovodsk for another vehicle, and a few hour delay. The WAS van eventually showed up at base camp and unloaded its inhabitants and gear, and we proceeded to pack the back full with duffels. The river had risen, so rather than be in the van for the crossing, we walked across the nearby fields, crossed the river on a small bridge, and met the van on the far side. The four wheel drive road is always exciting as we sway back and forth with the ruts, and was made even more so by the uncanny resemblance of our vehicle to a clown car with everyone inside. Though we arrived late to Kislovodsk, we got a delicious dinner at a Georgian restaurant on the central pedestrian mall. Tomorrow we transition back to big city mode, making our way to St. Petersburg. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team hurry up and wait
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Turns at 11,200’

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Kiira Antenucci reached Ingraham Flats at 11,200' on their summit attempt before poor weather forced them to turn and retreat to shelter of Camp Muir. The team is going to enjoy the morning on the mountain before descending. 

Congratulations to today's team! 

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Torres del Paine: King & Team Experience Windy Night at Lago Dickson

The Team was thankful to be in the Refugio last night as the wind & rain approached “white squall” intensity. Ships would have been listing in Lago Dickson. The building shook and poorly trimmed windows whistled. We enjoyed a dry but chilly morning hiking up hill to enter the Perros river valley. Most of the day was spent in the heavily canopied forest with occasional views of the surrounding alpine peaks and glaciers. We crisscrossed beautiful streams as we wound up valley to the terminal moraine of the Perros glacier. The wind had only gotten worse so we snapped some photos and headed into camp. Our camp lies in a forest that breaks most of the wind, allows a little sunlight through and sets us up to start tomorrow early for our hike through John Gardner pass. The feet are a little less sore and pack adjustments have been successful.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King

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Mt. Everest:  The Team Goes for an Acclimatization Walk Reaching Just Below the Lhotse Face

This is Dave Hahn calling down from Advanced Base Camp, 21,300'. A good day for Seth, Dan, and myself and Lam Babu and Yubaraj up here at ABC. Seemed like it was going be a little stormy this morning. There were clouds around, but we ended up with a pretty good sunshine, pretty calm conditions down here in the valley. We went for a late acclimatization walk up to about 21,800', close to the base of the Lhotse Face. That was a right move for us anyway today, a little light activity on our first day at Advanced Base Camp. And then resting until noon. We can’t do too much differently right now, the route up the Lhotse Face is not fully established yet. There has been a few unforeseen delays in getting that route fixed. We’re okay taking it easy. We have hiking plans for tomorrow as well. And working this acclimatization round the best we can. That is all for tonight. Talk to you tomorrow. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


Dave Hahn calls in from Advanced Base Camp.

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James please make sure you are on the lookout for saquatch stealing your food.  Its happened once it could happen again.  Stay safe my friend.

Posted by: Raymond Brown on 4/29/2013 at 8:36 am

Great going, Dave. Hope the weather holds.  Can’t wait to hear about the brawl at 26,000 ft that was in the news today.

Stay safe,

Chuck

Posted by: Chuck Roberts on 4/29/2013 at 8:26 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Starting through the Khumbu Icefall

Today, for the second time, Dave, my Dad, and I climbed up to the first ladders of the Khumbu Ice fall. After a delicious breakfast and saying goodbye to some good friends we've made here at Base Camp who were heading home, we set out on our climb at around 9:30am and got up to the first ladders around 11:00am. Two days ago our team did the same climb. It took my dad and I nearly two and a half hours to get to our high point, (about 18,000 feet) and when we did we were whipped. Standing next to the first ladder this time around I felt significantly stronger- I wasn't breathing nearly as hard and I actually got a chance to pick my head up and look at the amazing views of Base Camp and the valley below. Even climbing in an Ice fall the temperatures can get very hot, and this morning there wasn't a cloud in the sky. About half way through our hike, clouds finally began to gather about the tops of the peaks surrounding us and we were sheltered from the blazing sun which is much stronger at these altitudes. Our team is encouraged by our performance today. We feel much stronger, skilled, and acclimatized then we did even two days ago, and with this can get through the rest of the ice fall much more quickly and safely in the days to come. Lastly, our thoughts and prayers are with all of our friends and family back home. I think my Westminster Varsity Lacrosse teammates are playing a big game today, and I wish them all the best! As for how we're spending our spare time, we're meeting lots of new people, and becoming almost professional dart, horseshoes, sudoku, and card players. Thanks for following our blog! Sara McGahan

On The Map

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keep up the great work!Today my dad changed a light bulb which is the highest he will climb this year. I LOVE YOU and MISS YOU! Love, Sophie

Posted by: Sophie on 4/17/2011 at 7:51 am

SAYY!! i miss you so much, ive emailed you alot but you cant get your emails…. anyways, i dont want to leave a super long message but you rock so much and we are all thinking about you!! i LOVE YOU AND YOU ARE SUCH AN INSPIRATION and hurry home!!!!!!! (im gonna text you later)

Posted by: lilly on 4/16/2011 at 8:29 pm


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Reach 19,500’ on Summit Bid

Tuesday, June 29, 2021 - 10:13 pm PT

And that's that,

Today we gave it all we could. The forecast was for less than 15mph winds and party sunny...well that wasn't exactly what we got. Camp was windy from the start. The sun was out but so was the wind. But today was our last shot so we left camp. It was a slow start behind a bunch of teams on the Autobahn but we made it to Denali Pass. The first stretch of the day is a real butt kicker. Clouds began to roam above Denali but conditions were still good. As the day progressed so did the clouds. By late afternoon we were in a cloud and the winds had picked up. We pushed as far as we could until it didn't make sense to keep going. 19,500' was our high point. Pushing past there with the conditions we had would be a risk. As the saying goes the mountains will be there for another try. They are much more robust than we are. The team made good, safe work making it back to camp. It would have been nice to arrive to a quiet camp but it is rather windy here. It will be a rowdy night in the winds but tomorrow we will skiddattle out of here to the land of more oxygen.

We gave it our all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

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Gutted for you but great effort and staying power to stick it out as long as you have. Devin & Dustin it was great to see you when we were on our way down (I was with Mike King’s group). Here’s to a safe descent and lots of beers!!

Posted by: Huw Rothwell on 7/1/2021 at 4:07 pm

Really an impressive achievement and I’m so happy and so proud of you all for going after this exciting adventure!
I admire your patience & tenacity Byron! We all love living your adventures!
Mom & Dad

Posted by: Judy & Dale on 6/30/2021 at 1:29 pm


Machu Picchu: Team Trek into Soraypampa and Sleep High

 We awoke hours before the sun was up to begin our journey to the start of the Salkantay trek. Hours of winding Peruvian roads and a beautiful sunrise later, we arrived!

Our local guides and cooks made us a fantastic breakfast to start our trek off right. The first part of the trek began with a gradual uphill that gave us phenomenal views of the valley below. We followed an impressive trail alongside an aqueduct for several miles until we got to the town of Soraypampa. Here, we enjoyed the last porcelain throne that we would see for several days. Leaving town, we headed up a valley with soaring views of both, Tucarhuay and Salkantay peaks! The gradual ascent up the valley was difficult but rewarding as the beauty around us only increased as we got higher. Camp was graciously already set up for us by our guides and their assistants. We enjoyed a great dinner, drank cocoa, tea, and did our best to adjust to our new altitude of 14,300 feet. It was the highest most of us had ever slept, and it looked to be a cold night. Thankfully the cooks made us all wawa's (bladders of hot water) for bedtime!

Goodnight from the Andes!

Mike, Jack, and the team

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Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Climb to 13,400ft, Return to 11,000ft Camp

Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 12:01 am PT

What do motorcycles and squirrels have in common? They’re both steep hills we climbed on our way to cache our gear at 13,420 feet! From our cache we gained our first views of the fixed lines up to 17,000' Camp and the Messner Coulior. We descended with light packs enjoying the sunshine with beautiful views of the lower Kahiltna flowing south and green tundra stretching as far west into the distance as the eye can see.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

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E-L-L-I-O-T

DAMN, hope your were able to fit your snowboard in your pack; STUNNER!

Definitely rarified air.

Let the journey be the focus.

Belgian Ales @ Hopleaf await.

I just can’t grasp why you haven’t been texting me lots of pictures - ha!

Love ya, my Brother

ET

Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 5/26/2021 at 5:05 pm

WOW Heidi!  We think we spotted you in this most recent photo!  I shared your whole expedition thus far during homeroom with the third grade.  They loved it. 
I hope you packed enough chapstick.  That wind looks fierce.  Keep on doing awesome!  Kirby says you are a BEAST!

Posted by: Allison santana on 5/26/2021 at 10:41 am


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff, Smith & Entire Team Summit Cotopaxi

Hannah and I are thrilled to announce to bloglandia that every RMI team member, all 13 of us, summited Cotopaxi this morning around 6:15 am.   I gotta say, this team is batting the perfect game.   Every climber has successfully reached the top of all four mountains without as much as a few blisters.   Granted I taped those blisters up this morning at 12:03 am and I was happy they weren’t mine, but it goes to show that stamina and toughness go a long way up here.   

Potentially assisting in the team’s great success is the unbelievable weather.   I was awe struck at how beautiful Cayambe was but surprised even more at the perfection of today’s weather and route conditions.   Whoever cashed in their karma chips certainly deserves a Pilsner Grande for their investment.   We simply could not be blessed with better luck.  Adding to the beauty this evening was a near full moon which lit up the glacier so brightly we were able to climb without headlamps.    Usually one element, wind, rain, snow, fog or cold is waiting for you at the top.  Today all we had was an intense rotten egg smell from the still active lava tube belching sulfurous gas but other than that nada mucho.   

After a spectacular climb and full blown photo shoot extravaganza, we descended quickly to the hut for homemade pancakes.  Again, this is how mountain climbing should be?   (When do we get cooks again at camp Muir?)

A brief packing session and 600 vertical foot hike down to the bus landed our exhausted carcasses into our assigned seats and off to the Hacienda for a needed shower and big dinner.   I think the average calorie burn on peoples watches indicated between 7 and 9 thousand calories for the day so some papas fritas and lots of meat shouldn’t tighten the belt too much.  

We hope this trend continues tomorrow as we head further south to attempt the grand finale of Chimborazo.   This mountain is notorious for its difficulty so stay tuned.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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2022 is being wonderful!  Keep it going!  Congrats!

Posted by: Jane on 2/17/2022 at 7:02 pm

This is So Cool Adam , Hannah and Team!!! Enjoy dinner and live in this Awesome time you are all having!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/17/2022 at 3:21 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Cache Supplies at Washburn’s Thumb

Today was a crucial day for us to get in position for a summit bid. We carried a couple of days of food plus some personal gear to the bottom of Washburn's Thumb at 16,800'. This cache is an integral part of the strategy of climbing this mountain. Once in place, we can wait for a weather window to move up to camp at 17,000' and then summit. It now becomes a waiting game for us as we need a good forecast for a string of a few days. It was also a great day for us to practice our climbing skills because the real climbing on Denali starts above 14,000'. We got to practice using the fixed lines up to 16,200' to attain the West Buttress. From there, we were greeted with beautiful views and climbing on a thin, rocky ridge. The buttress is the namesake of the route, the reason people come up this way. It requires great attention, but affords amazing climbing and vistas. Everyone did a great job with these 2 new challenges. We even had some members of the group attain new personal high marks! StokemeterNow, we're back at camp ready for some rest. We are playing the waiting game now, holding out and hoping the mountain will give us the weather window we need. But the forecast looks pretty good, and we're patient, stubborn, and well prepared. 14K Camp is a great place to get strong, and with a rest day tomorrow we definitely won't be getting out of sleeping bags until the sun hits us. Bringing back an old feature to the blog: the stoke meter is all the way up at a 9.5 right now! RMI Guide Maile Wade and the southside dwellers of 14K!

On The Map

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You are in good hands.  Keep listening to Mike, make good choices and be safe.

Posted by: Diana on 5/23/2012 at 5:50 pm

Kyle, you are an amazing and wonderful boyfriend. Thank you so very much for the beautiful flowers and the sweet note. It definitely made me cry! We are all rooting for you and are so proud of you. Juliana asks me everyday where you are. Even my friend Dan says how inspired he is. On to the top! Hurry home! Love you! Stephenie

Posted by: Stephenie on 5/23/2012 at 7:28 am

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