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Posted by: Andy Bond, Grayson Swingle, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Tuesday, June 28, 2022 - 11:42 pm PT
Let me tell you about the pain cave. It’s made of self doubt stalactites and poorly spaced foot buckets where you think you have found purchase with your crampons and yet they slide again and again. It’s got stalagmites forged from the tears of mountaineers who came before you. It’s a fearsome place indeed. But we are a powerful team and WE CARRY ON.
That is right readers, this intrepid group scaled the hairy fixed lines once again to move our camp to 17,000' today. What stroke of luck to have such incredible weather for our move day. To be traversing the airy Washburns’s Thumb in nothing but a sun hoody is the stuff of dreams. Our RMI guides continue to provide important services such as lying to us about the steepness of the grade on the trail we cannot yet see, and assurances that today will likely be considered a harder day than our planned summit day tomorrow. Andy, keep up the bluffing, it’s working like a charm.
Todays highlights included Steve’s reunion with his hula hoop, the view from 17 Camp when we finally arrived, the fact that most of us are higher than we’ve ever been, and the team spirit embodied by Yann who selflessly swung into action helping his teammates set up tents when they arrived exhausted. There was also the traffic on the running belays which was reminiscent of Seattle’s I-5, but really, who can complain when it’s a fraction of the normal peak season crowd.
With a bit of rest this evening, some much needed calories (an entire mountain house plus snacks), and a continuous deep well of motivation to draw from, we sit eager with anticipation for tomorrow - the big day!!!
RMI Climber Holly
Posted by: Lindsay Mann
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
This past January I participated in an American Avalanche Institute Level 3 Course in Jackson, Wyoming. A Level 3 Avi Course entails a great deal of prep work as participants need to complete snow observations, make numerous snow pit profiles, and spend ample experience traveling and making decisions in avalanche terrain before the course even begins. After several days of classroom and field learning, the course concluded with several testing components. These test involved completing a full data snow pit in under an hour, finding three buried avalanche beacons in less than seven minutes, and completing a written test.
The conditions for our course were ideal for learning. Midway through the course a major storm cycle came through the area, resulting in rapidly changing conditions within the snowpack that had a wide array of implications on avalanche risk. While the class focused on the technical aspects of snow crystal identification and anticipating the array of components that contribute to avalanche forecasting, we were also able to enjoy some great skiing between the times we spent observing and forecasting the rapidly changing snowpack.
I walked away from the course with a sense of accomplishment, as this is the highest-level avalanche education course available in the U.S., and a greater understanding for mechanics of avalanches and and avalanche forecasting. The complexities of avalanches are remarkable and this course was invaluable in contributing to the toolbox of skills upon which I rely for decision making in the mountains and in avalanche terrain.
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Lindsay Mann is a Senior Guide at RMI Expeditions and a NCAA D1 Skiing Champion. She has climbed and guided around the world, from Peru to Alaska. Learn more about Lindsay and see her upcoming trips here…
Love and miss you, Dad! We all know that you’re doing great. Good luck tomorrow! We’re all praying for you!
-Logan
Posted by: Logan Boicourt on 6/6/2012 at 9:04 pm
Happy Thanksgiving! Good look on summit day. David you are missed, thinking of you.
Posted by: Birgitta Schindler on 11/24/2011 at 10:35 am
PRAYING TODAY BRINGS GREAT CLIMBING WEATHER! BE SAFE!!
Posted by: TOM WENDEL on 11/22/2011 at 9:26 am
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 17, 340"
Patience was the name of the game for Ixta. The team awoke multiple times during the night to find various conditions. First snow, then total whiteout, then a menacing cloud cap over the upper mountain. Knowing the patterns of the local mountains we decided to take the cloud cap as our opportunity to climb and we’re rewarded. As we climbed, the cloud dissipated, and team was able to keep ascending under the full moon and cool temps. We reached the summit at 7:50 AM with views of the surrounding peaks and the route we had just ascended. No time to waste though, it was time to descend. We knew of the incoming weather and descended without incident to the parking lot.
Off to Puebla we went to enjoy our much-deserved showers, tacos, and real beds. Great effort by all the team members and we look forward to exploring Puebla tomorrow.
RMI Guides Dominic, Abby and Team
Congratulation on the summit, Abby you are a badass. Keep up the good work!
Posted by: Uncle Chewy on 2/17/2022 at 7:32 pm
Congrats team! So psyched for you guys and gals, especially my Z! Enjoy your rest, next stop - summit #2!
Posted by: Jessica Purcell on 2/17/2022 at 1:12 pm
Hannah and I are thrilled to announce to bloglandia that every RMI team member, all 13 of us, summited Cotopaxi this morning around 6:15 am. I gotta say, this team is batting the perfect game. Every climber has successfully reached the top of all four mountains without as much as a few blisters. Granted I taped those blisters up this morning at 12:03 am and I was happy they weren’t mine, but it goes to show that stamina and toughness go a long way up here.
Potentially assisting in the team’s great success is the unbelievable weather. I was awe struck at how beautiful Cayambe was but surprised even more at the perfection of today’s weather and route conditions. Whoever cashed in their karma chips certainly deserves a Pilsner Grande for their investment. We simply could not be blessed with better luck. Adding to the beauty this evening was a near full moon which lit up the glacier so brightly we were able to climb without headlamps. Usually one element, wind, rain, snow, fog or cold is waiting for you at the top. Today all we had was an intense rotten egg smell from the still active lava tube belching sulfurous gas but other than that nada mucho.
After a spectacular climb and full blown photo shoot extravaganza, we descended quickly to the hut for homemade pancakes. Again, this is how mountain climbing should be? (When do we get cooks again at camp Muir?)
A brief packing session and 600 vertical foot hike down to the bus landed our exhausted carcasses into our assigned seats and off to the Hacienda for a needed shower and big dinner. I think the average calorie burn on peoples watches indicated between 7 and 9 thousand calories for the day so some papas fritas and lots of meat shouldn’t tighten the belt too much.
We hope this trend continues tomorrow as we head further south to attempt the grand finale of Chimborazo. This mountain is notorious for its difficulty so stay tuned.
2022 is being wonderful! Keep it going! Congrats!
Posted by: Jane on 2/17/2022 at 7:02 pm
This is So Cool Adam , Hannah and Team!!! Enjoy dinner and live in this Awesome time you are all having!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/17/2022 at 3:21 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Jordan Cargill, JT Schmitt, Gloria Roe, Ross Morgan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
Welcome back to earth team! Can’t wait to see you Glo! Yep, it’s me again! Glo’s proud mama!
Posted by: Michelle Mom on 6/1/2018 at 1:30 am
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, June 2, 2022 - 8:13 pm PT
Today we yet again woke up to, you guessed it, beautiful weather. We packed up camp and made our way up Motorcycle Hill and towards 14,000' Camp. It was a hot, heavy, and challenging day but everyone rolled into 14,000' Camp in good style and we were able to greet JT and the RMI team descending from 17,000' Camp. We spent the last few hours rehydrating, and recovering before rolling into a late dinner of broccoli cheddar rice. Tomorrow is another rest day, everyone is looking forward to a mellow day to recover and start preparing for the fixed lines. We will check back in tomorrow after coffee!
We have a new found admiration of you all. Hope you are enjoying this! Looking forward to some wonderful stories.
Posted by: Nick & Annette on 6/5/2022 at 8:59 am
You guys are making this look easy! Keep it up!!
Posted by: Katy Shaw on 6/4/2022 at 7:04 am
On The Map
Another great day for the Team. Should we worry that any of you may convert and stay behind in one of those beautiful Buddhist monastaries? Good luck on your next hike to 14,000’. It’ll be a piece of cake for his team!
Posted by: Hugh on 3/20/2012 at 2:54 pm
Hi Guys! The students at UCLAN University in the UK and are currently in the process of producing a musical courtesy of richard taylor and roger haines about the history, trials and tradgedies of climbing mount Everest. We would all first like to say how inspirational you all are and think its an amazing thing you are doing!!! We just wondered if anyone can tell us how big the top of summit actually is? BEST WISHSES AND GOOD LUCK TO YOU ALL!!! X X X
Posted by: Aine O'Grady on 3/20/2012 at 1:43 pm
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 30, 2022 - 2:40 pm PT
Happy Memorial Day. After a few early mornings, we finally got to "sleep in". Waking up as the sun hit our tents, we were all drinking coffee and making breakfast burritos by 8:30 am. With clear skies above, and the cloud deck sitting right below 11 Camp we loaded up our empty packs and sleds to head downhill into the cloud to grab our cache. After a few short minutes downhill, we filled our packs and sleds back up with the gear and food we had left. The short uphill went by quickly compared to the last few days, and it felt good to shake out the legs before spending the rest of the day resting.
Tomorrow we begin this whole process again, with hopes to cache somewhere above Windy Corner. Until then we will be resting, napping and snacking at camp.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
Can you post the itinerary of the proposed climb? Love to envision where you all are, on the glacier. Be safe.
Posted by: Emigh Litch on 5/31/2022 at 1:06 pm
Love that you guys are embracing the suck! Go team, Go!
Posted by: Steve Polovick on 6/30/2022 at 7:01 am
Team Bond you’re crushing it! Keep pushing through the pain and moving forward. Looking forward to hearing about you conquering summit day.
Posted by: Cortney on 6/29/2022 at 5:53 pm
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