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Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Tatum Whatford, Seth Burns
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Saturday, June 25, 2022 - 10:04 pm PT
We did another 5 AM wake up. It was cool in the morning shadows, but not uncomfortably so. Breakfast fortified us for a 7 AM departure up the steep Motorcycle Hill. To finally be in crampons rather than snowshoes felt great. Our first rest break -midway up Squirrel Hill- gave us brand new views of the Peters Glacier and Denali’s Northwest Buttress, in addition to ever closer views of the formidable granite forming the end of the West Buttress. We finished off Squirrel and came onto the “Polo Field” below the end of the Buttress. One more pull got us to the saddle below Windy Corner where we took a break before tackling the corner itself. The Corner is always exciting, traversing steep slopes with huge chunks of granite just above us and crevasses just below… all while trying not to stare too long at the Kahiltna Glacier far below, or at Mount Hunter and Mount Foraker in all their glory. Finishing the Corner leaves one looking straight at Denali’s South Peak for the first time. We cached food and fuel just beyond the corner, spending about 50 minutes there at 13,500 ft before starting down. We actually walked down into a layer of wildfire smoke that had moved in. Luckily the smoke didn’t stick around for too long. We were back at camp at 1:30 PM and diving into the tents shortly afterward to get out of the intense high altitude sun.
It was a good day of climbing and we’ve had a few now… so tomorrow looks good for a rest day to solidify our acclimatization before moving up.
Best Regards,
Posted by: Joe Hoch, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climbs led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Devin Wilkinson climbed above the clouds to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier. Joe reported sunny skies and light winds with a cloud deck at around 9,000' this morning. The Weather was holding and provided the team will good climbing conditions.
Congratulations to today's team!
Way to go Howard and howie. Stay safe today.
Posted by: Favorite sister of Howard on 8/7/2021 at 4:07 am
Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Kiira Antenucci, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,131'
RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo and team had a successful climb of Mt. Shuksan yesterday. After a hazy morning wake-up call, the team ascended the Sulphide glacier and enjoyed some Class 4 scrambling on the summit pyramid before topping out yesterday. The team has made it back to the trailhead and team members are on their way home.
Nice work team!
The itinerary of this Aconcagua climb has been anything but ordinary. The weather saw to that ever since we first tried to move to Camp 1 and promptly had to do an about-face back to Basecamp. Since that day, the guides have had to stay on their toes, rearranging, pivoting, and scraping together a plan that would give us the best shot for the summit. Well, this group's ability to adapt to the changing circumstances on a moments notice may just payoff. Today was originally our day to summit, but the wind had other ideas. So now we are once again resting, eating, and acclimatizing at Camp 2. However, this means that tonight is our night. The last night in fact! The wind and temperatures look ideal for a successful summit attempt. But don’t get excited for us just yet, having had to push the summit day back as far as possible to improve our chances with the weather means tomorrow will be a monster of a day. We will launch our summit attempt from Camp 2 instead of high camp, a move not possible with any other group I’ve climbed this mountain with. If we are successful and make it to the top, we then must head back down to Camp 2, pick up the gear the porters didn’t carry down and continue downhill all the way back to Basecamp! A summit to Basecamp in a day itinerary is no small feat, but having seen how well prepared these climbers are, I firmly believe they can pull it of in good style. Everyone one of them trained hard and came prepared for a difficult climb. Tomorrow will be extremely hard, but if we can pull it off, it will make one hell of a story! Wish us luck!
Steve and team nothing but the most positive vibes and thoughts for tomorrow! Know how much you trained for this and your team too!! Go Go.
Posted by: Paul and Susan Cambon on 1/23/2022 at 5:36 pm
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:24 pm PT
We're finally fully moved into 11,000' Camp. After a four hour lap to pick up our cache at 9,400 we have all our food and fuel with us. To celebrate to had pudding for dessert after a tasty meal of rice and curry. The weather looks good for tomorrow and we are hoping to carry some gear up to Windy Corner.
Please tell Norm that everything is ok at home and I am well. Thanks! Valerie
Posted by: Valerie Cognetto on 5/31/2021 at 11:14 am
We kidnapped your wife for the weekend, it will cost you a weekend of camping out at a country music festival, lol. Seriously- we are so very proud and astounded by your accomplishment. Norm- you are amazing and we wish you a safe return home to all who love you. xo
Posted by: Allison and Jimmy on 5/30/2021 at 7:06 am
RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in from High Camp on Huayna Potosi, Bolivia
Hi Mattie-
We think about you all day long, hope that the weather is in your favor, and that RMI and the guides do their thing and help you all to achieve your goal…a summit!!! Hang in there, sweetheart! We look forward to hearing all about your experiences through the blogs. Love you!
Mama, Jesse, Bud, Taira and Adryan
Posted by: Bird on 5/30/2017 at 5:20 pm
Justin,
Hope things are going well for you and the team. Just found the blog and will follow the rest of your trip. Enjoy the view. Dad
Posted by: David Probst on 5/30/2017 at 11:40 am
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
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On The Map
Well let’s just say, “Buzzard Butthairs” to another day at 17,200, and good for you for patience and persistence. No Denali Demons allowed, and may you soon reach your goal. Keep up that strong spirit.
GO TYM! GO TEAM!
Love Mom and Zeppelin
Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 7/2/2019 at 9:59 am
Wayne, Zach and Ian-how are those snacks tasting? Hope you can summit today. Best wishes to the entire team. The summit awaits you!!!
Posted by: Aunt Kathy on 7/2/2019 at 8:49 am
Posted by: Paul Maier, Elias de Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations Will!!! So proud of you :) What an amazing feat!
Roxanne, Kurt and the kids
Posted by: Roxanne on 8/4/2012 at 2:36 pm
Congratulations, Will and team!! So awesome!
Cheers and great respect,
Rachel
Posted by: Rachel on 8/4/2012 at 10:57 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Tatum Whatford, Seth Burns
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, June 29, 2022 - 10:32 pm PT
This was a big and beautiful day on Denali. Sunny from start to finish with barely a puff of wind all day. So we made good use of it. We were up at 7 and out of camp by 8:50 in the morning shadows. We powered on up the hills just out of camp that steepened to headwalls a few hours along. The team did great in managing the fixed ropes on the steep ice leading to the crest of the West Buttress. We were at the top of the ropes by 12:15 PM where we took a short break looking out over about half the planet. We proceeded up the ridge for some interesting climbing, putting our hands on clean granite while our crampons worked up firm snow. At 16,600 ft -the base of “Washburn’s Thumb” we declared victory and dug a cache for the supplies we’d carried. We made our way back down, slowly and carefully, reaching camp at 14,000' about 7 and a half hours after we’d departed. Just in time for a pre-dinner nap. The team was excited to hear of Andy Bond’s team tagging the top in perfect conditions today. We look forward to seeing them back down at 14,000' tomorrow. We’ll be resting and getting ready to move up to 17,000' when we get the opportunity.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Way to go team!
Diana and Tom
Posted by: Diana Weiss on 6/30/2022 at 9:27 am
Amazing progress everyone!
You are all AMAZING!
Posted by: Margaret Nolan on 6/30/2022 at 9:07 am
What an adventure!!! Go, team, go! Cheering each and every one of you on, especially Jim! Such an amazing experience!
Posted by: Deborah Karmozyn on 6/26/2022 at 1:26 pm
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