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Mt. Rainier: August 17th Teams on Top!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7 am today. Steve reported light winds, warm temperatures, and the smoke haze is starting to clear. The team spent about an hour on the summit enjoying the views before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's team!
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Looks like the Alabama gang had success, congrats

Posted by: Don Baggett on 8/17/2018 at 12:43 pm

Way to go Mike and team
Good luck on the descent.

Posted by: Angela on 8/17/2018 at 9:12 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir

Today we started the day off with an ascent of Muir Peak while practicing proper cramponing. We concluded with some safety skills with self and team arrest. The team is enjoying the views in the sunshine and it is slowly warming up. Next on the agenda is teaching rope travel and glacial travel principles. JJ, Dan and Team
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may the snow winds blow you safely home!!! we white light you all with huge love and kisses from your family in Belgium…..jasper wants you to kiss the moon for him!

Posted by: arielle croonenberghs on 6/7/2012 at 10:24 am

We are all praying for your summit and that the weather holds out for you..great photo op! love, The Patton’s

Posted by: Dr. Missy on 6/6/2012 at 6:56 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team Complete Back Carry

Monday, May 30, 2022 - 2:40 pm PT

Happy Memorial Day. After a few early mornings, we finally got to "sleep in". Waking up as the sun hit our tents, we were all drinking coffee and making breakfast burritos by 8:30 am. With clear skies above, and the cloud deck sitting right below 11 Camp we loaded up our empty packs and sleds to head downhill into the cloud to grab our cache. After a few short minutes downhill, we filled our packs and sleds back up with the gear and food we had left. The short uphill went by quickly compared to the last few days, and it felt good to shake out the legs before spending the rest of the day resting.

Tomorrow we begin this whole process again, with hopes to cache somewhere above Windy Corner. Until then we will be resting, napping and snacking at camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

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Can you post the itinerary of the proposed climb? Love to envision where you all are, on the glacier. Be safe.

Posted by: Emigh Litch on 5/31/2022 at 1:06 pm


Mt. Baker: Andy Bond and Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

Our Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier team led by RMI Guide Andy Bond reached the summit early today. Due to a forecast of clouds and rain, the team decided to make their summit attempt a day early. Lucky them, this worked, and they reached the 10.781' summit!  The rains hit when they got back to camp, so they will do their best to stay dry, and hike out early tomorrow.

Congratulations team! 

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KAT AND SAR WHOOOOOOOO. Sorry we lied what was hardest

Posted by: Wes on 8/21/2021 at 9:14 am

Congratulations everyone you made it! Josh your dad and I are so excited for you!  Awesome job to the whole team!!!

Posted by: Robin on 8/20/2021 at 5:12 pm


Mt. Rainier: Haugen & Kautz Seminar Team Reach Summit

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz June 23 - 28, 2023 checked in this morning from the summit crater.  After two days of training at Rainier BaseCamp and Paradise the team headed onto the mountain.  With several days to train and ascend, the team launched their summit attempt this morning, reaching the crater before 7 am.  After enjoying some time on top, the team is now on their descent. RMI Guide Mike Haugen reported a beautiful day with light winds.  The team will return to Paradise later this afternoon and be transferred back to Rainier BaseCamp to complete their program.

Nice work team!

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Reach 19,500’ on Summit Bid

Tuesday, June 29, 2021 - 10:13 pm PT

And that's that,

Today we gave it all we could. The forecast was for less than 15mph winds and party sunny...well that wasn't exactly what we got. Camp was windy from the start. The sun was out but so was the wind. But today was our last shot so we left camp. It was a slow start behind a bunch of teams on the Autobahn but we made it to Denali Pass. The first stretch of the day is a real butt kicker. Clouds began to roam above Denali but conditions were still good. As the day progressed so did the clouds. By late afternoon we were in a cloud and the winds had picked up. We pushed as far as we could until it didn't make sense to keep going. 19,500' was our high point. Pushing past there with the conditions we had would be a risk. As the saying goes the mountains will be there for another try. They are much more robust than we are. The team made good, safe work making it back to camp. It would have been nice to arrive to a quiet camp but it is rather windy here. It will be a rowdy night in the winds but tomorrow we will skiddattle out of here to the land of more oxygen.

We gave it our all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

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Gutted for you but great effort and staying power to stick it out as long as you have. Devin & Dustin it was great to see you when we were on our way down (I was with Mike King’s group). Here’s to a safe descent and lots of beers!!

Posted by: Huw Rothwell on 7/1/2021 at 4:07 pm

Really an impressive achievement and I’m so happy and so proud of you all for going after this exciting adventure!
I admire your patience & tenacity Byron! We all love living your adventures!
Mom & Dad

Posted by: Judy & Dale on 6/30/2021 at 1:29 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker and Team Set Out From Lukla

Mark Tucker here with the Everest Base Camp Trek team. No, internet access at this point, so I thought I'd check in with the satellite phone. So we're just outside of the Sagarmatha National Park. We had a great night in Lukla. We took a little time this morning leaving as we organized the loads with our porters. We are set with all our gear that is needed while we continue our trek to Base Camp. We're by the Tenzing Norgay Airstrip, where the STOL-type aircraft, acronym for Short Take Off and Landing type planes. Years ago a famous local Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay, with Sir Edmund Hillary supervising, spent a month revamping and lengthening the airstrip, but it is still quite a ride. The team had a beautiful hike approaching the Dudh Kosi River. It was fantastic. Good views, perfect weather. We are all looking really fine. The team is all doing very well and couldn't be happier. RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Mark - your posts are very much appreciated - thank you! It’s great to keep tabs on our girl, Susan :)  Please pass on my positive thoughts and prayers for a fabulous adventure.  Thanks again, Carol

Posted by: Carol Donovan on 3/23/2013 at 4:32 am


Vinson Massif: Team Plays the Waiting Game in Punta Arenas

Hello, Well, the phone call we got this morning was not the one we wanted. The news was that the flight was not going to happen and that the next scheduled update would be at 7:30 pm. The winds at both Punta Arenas and Union Glacier were too high. We made great use of the day despite the flight being delayed. We took a tour of Fuerto Bulnes, the first establishment in this area, founded in 1834. It is about 35 miles east of Punta Arenas and plays a very important part in this area's history. After some lunch we did a short walking tour of the city's cemetery which is filled with beautiful mausoleums. While a bit on the side of eerie, it was well worth it. We were back at the hotel early and ready for the next update. When the call came, they said that the wind gusts in the last hour (53 knots) at the airport were a little too high, but they would call back in an hour and give us another update. The next call came as promised and while the winds diminished at the airport, the relative humidity at Union Glacier had increased 82%, and the flight was not going to happen tonight. So the waiting game continues and we will start the process again tomorrow morning with the 7:30 am update. Hopefully tomorrow will be our day to fly. Best, RMI Guide Jeff Martin
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Mt. Everest Expedition: The Next Climb

Sara and I left for this adventure on March 23rd, which seems a long time ago. Since that time we have had many treks and climbs, but it seems that "the next climb" - whatever that is - is the "most important" climb, and the one that will be the hardest and the biggest test. Our climb tomorrow is no different - it is our "most important climb" so far. Tomorrow we will be climbing from Everest Base Camp (at about 17,500 feet) up to Camp 1 (at nearly 20,000 feet) through the Khumbu Ice fall. The climb through the ice fall would be difficult at sea level, but the altitude makes it much more challenging. Dave Hahn and Linden Mallory (our guides) have spent weeks preparing Sara and me for the climb tomorrow. We have been "coached" on most everything - from what to eat before and during the climb, how to wear all our equipment, how to go across crevasses on ladders, how to use our crampons on vertical ice - I know that there is not a situation we will face that they have not prepared us for. But I still worry. I hope that my months and months of preparation are enough. And I hope that we have good luck. But if we are strong (and fortunate) enough we should be arriving at the top of the ice fall for 3 nights by mid-day. Then, once we make camp we will spend one of the days climbing up towards Camp 2. One of the reasons that I climb is that I get to spend time with Sara. And every time I climb with her I come away more and more impressed. She is such a confident young woman - so easy to share her thoughts and feelings, and so easy to laugh. It is great to hear her talk about her friends, her classes, and the sports teams she plays on. I like to hear about all the details about the social situations, but I really love to hear how she thinks about things. The only way I get to hear about these things is to spend time with her - she is like a ship passing in the night at home. I wouldn't even know to ask questions about the things we talk about on these trips. I will treasure the time I have spent with her forever, for I know in two years she is off to college. But I will always have in my memory the months we have spent climbing together. Thank you for following our blog. Bill M.
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Is your guide any relation to George Mallory? Good luck in your adventure. Hope to see you back on the softball field soon.

Posted by: John Hubbard on 4/22/2011 at 7:50 am

i am reading this the day of your climb. my thoughts and prayers are with you today and always. what a great adventure to share….a true bond. love, aunt mary

Posted by: aunt mary on 4/20/2011 at 10:37 am


Vinson: Peter Whittaker Checks in from Union Glacier

Hello there, this is Peter. It is January 17th and it is 8:45 [p.m.] here down in Antarctica. [We're] on the ice, back here at Union Glacier. We woke up this morning to beautiful blue skies and sun which is really nice after two days of weather. We were told that we had an hour to pack and break the tents and that the plane would be picking us up right after that. So we scrambled and broke everything down [and] the plane showed up. We were pretty excited to work our way to a couple of objectives that we had identified as skiable and climbable on the way to Union Glacier. When the pilot showed she had a forecast that was not good and we decided that we would fly back, watch the weather, and see how things went. The weather rolled in and shut things down; we were able to get back in to Union Glacier where we landed in that's where we are now. So we were not able to get to our ski objectives were a little saddened by that. But we're here and the forecast is not too good for the next several days. But we're already getting maps out and finding some different objectives. The cool thing is that the runway is in an area here at Union Glacier that is basically unexplored, so there's lots of potential for first ascents and first descents, accessible by Twin Otter if the weather permits, and also by snow mobile and they have these wonderful vans with big snow tracks on them as well. So, the game is always changing with a few twists and turns but the whole team is here. We did reunite with Ed, Cindy and David and so the whole team is back together, all nine of us. We're eating dinner and digging in here. [Brief Static] That's the update from the First Ascent RMI Team down here on the ice and we'll talk to you soon.


Peter Whittaker checking in from the ice.

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