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Mt. Everest Expedition: First Rotation to Camp 2 Accomplished

Five days ago we tried getting up through the Khumbu Icefall but instead dropped down to Basecamp again to wait a day. We weren't firing on all cylinders and it was clear that the jet stream was. The wind made a cardboard tearing sound as it scraped across the high peaks. Four days ago we got up without a great deal of difficulty, reaching Camp I in about five hours from basecamp. The climbers we talked to told stories of big winds at Camps I and II doing all sorts of tent damage and rubbing a bunch of nerves raw. We hoped we'd missed the big wind event as we crawled into our tents for afternoon naps... but we could still hear it howling above and as the hours went by it got a little noisier right down in our own neighborhood. Spirits were high though as the four of us piled into one tent for dinner and climbing stories. That first night was not a good one for relaxing, as it turned out. We guessed that the tents were getting rocked by gusts in the 50 to 70 mph range throughout the night. Linden and I instinctively put our feet up against the tent walls to brace for the bigger blasts and we hoped that the extra careful anchoring job we'd done was working for Bill and Sara in their tent two feet away. The wind quit on us at four AM precisely and the alarm clock rang at five. That first full day in the Western Cwm was meant to be mostly a rest day with an easy morning hike partway up the valley. That didn't seem restful at five, but Linden and I lit the stoves anyway and started melting ice, figuring a little coffee couldn't hurt the mood. We took our time and ate and drank for hours while gearing up and waiting for the sun to get a little closer to the valley floor. The sun has to work pretty hard at that in the Cwm as the walls rise to 25,000 ft ( not counting Everest and Lhotse) but by eight AM when we started walking in down coats, there was a hint of warmth in all the brightness. We strolled in our crampons up under the ridiculously steep Nuptse Wall and then crossed a series of easy crevasse bridges. We came to a crazy and crooked collection of six or seven ladders tied together, spanning a deep crevasse. There was a perfectly good detour trail which would avoid the high wire acrobatics at the cost of about twenty minutes and we happily went detouring. A bit farther up the valley and we came to the last crevasse... Our goal for the day. We took a short rest at this halfway point to Camp II and then reversed course, heading back for much-needed naps at Camp I. That second night was blissfully quiet and calm and so when the alarm rang at five, once again, we were a bit more ready for action. We set out walking in the shadows at seven AM bound for Advanced Base Camp. Eventually, when we'd passed all the crevasses again, it got hot as the sun got bouncing off a billion tons of ice and snow, but we took a few rest breaks and kept on trudging to CII. When we reached the rocky moraine the angle steepened and things got tough, but my team was tough too. We strolled into the construction site where Lam Babu and Uberaz (our ABC cook) were working hard at the beginnings of a fine camp. It seemed a good occasion for myself, Linden and Sara to sing happy birthday to Bill and to shake his hand. We sat drinking tea for a few minutes and gazing up at the Lhotse Face. It was icy and intimidating, but the good news was that we could see great progress being made by the "fixing team" assigned to string rope and fashion anchors on the face. This was a team made up of strong Sherpas from a number of expeditions. Our team's contribution toward the effort, apart from money, had been Cherring, Kaji and Dawa carrying a few big loads of rope up from base to ABC. At midday we began walking down valley again, keeping an eye out for a ladder-crossing black dog whose tracks we'd seen all day long. Early in the day, I'd spied him trotting through Camp I wagging his tail after completing the Icefall, but we didn't see anything but tracks up at ABC. We did meet plenty of friends out on the trail as we headed down for our Camp I with our mission for Rotation I largely accomplished. Our final night in the Cwm was quiet and a little snowy. It still was snowing lightly as we packed up in the morning and got set for a careful trip down through the Icefall. Down to comfy chairs and showers and the basecamp good life. Mark Tucker was elated to see us again... In fact we all felt a little guilty leaving him alone with the kitchen staff for four days... But he seemed to have muddled through. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY BILL! Awesome way to spend your 35th birthday :) loving all the pics and stories. Miss you guys. Stay safe ok..ok.ok..ok okay…t

Posted by: Tara Minnax on 4/25/2011 at 3:49 pm

Happy Birthday Bill and have continued safe climbs.  Sounds fantastic. 

Lowndes

Posted by: Lowndes Harrison on 4/24/2011 at 7:50 pm


Mt. Rainier: Smith & Emmons Team Turn at 13,500ft

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons June 17 - 22 led by RMI Guide Hannah Smith made the difficult decision to turn around today at 13,500'.  Hannah reported difficult snow conditions and a lack of established trail due to the new snow accumulations over the last few days. The climbers have returned to Camp Schurman where they will spend their final night on the mountain.  Tomorrow the team will do some crevasse rescue training before descending to the trailhead and returning to Rainier BaseCamp later in the day.

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Mt. Rainier: Stormy Weather Keeps Five Day Climb at Camp Muir

 RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Dustin Wittmier and the Mt. Rainier Five Day Climb teams endured a steady and consistent spring storm at Camp Muir. Windy conditions prevented the teams fom ascending above Camp Muir but will make for epic stories of traveling to the outhouse while at camp. The teams will return to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon.

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Sorry to hear that, looks like last three expeditions able to go up Muir Camp only due to weather.
Is May is good month to go (just wondering)?

Posted by: Umesh Patel on 5/8/2022 at 5:01 pm

Sorry to hear the May 6th team got turned around due to weather….

I am ready to tackle Rainier on August 3 - 6…. I am hoping the weather is not a factor

I would LOVE to hear of your experiences and recommendations so I can learn more

Posted by: Jeff Duqutte on 5/7/2022 at 9:36 am


Mt. Rainier: Beautiful Day on the Summit!

The Four Day Climb June 22 - 25 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and James Bealer.  The teams reached the crater rim at 5:30 am, they enjoyed clear skies and a light breeze during their climb.  The route remains in good shape and teams were making good time on their descent.  They were at 13,500' around 7 am heading back to Camp Muir.  They will enjoy a short break at Camp Muir to refuel and repack, then descend the remaining 4.5 miles and 4,500ft to reach Paradise.

Congratulations to today's teams on reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier!

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Kilimanjaro: Hahn and Team Reach Barafu Camp

Yet another perfect weather day, calm and sunny… clear above and cloudy below. We ate breakfast in Karanga Camp and then said a temporary goodbye to two of our climbers.  John Bobbitt aggravated an old knee injury and Erika Bobbitt wanted to make sure he got down safely.  They set off for the Mweka Gate of the park as we set off for high camp at 8:30 AM. In an easy three hours, we had climbed the 2000’ vertical feet up to Barafu and begun to settle in.  From 15,100 ft, we now had unobstructed views of our climbing route to the top.

The afternoon was taken up with resting and getting our gear and clothing ready for our planned alpine start. Chef Benson’s fine spaghetti dinner was served early so that we could get to bed just before sunset. We want as much rest as we can get before our 11:15 PM wake-up time.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You’re almost there!  Enjoy every step of the way!

Posted by: Sarah & Ella on 8/7/2022 at 5:44 am

This is an experience of a lifetime.  We can’t imagine natures beauty as you climb tonight, the stars must be spectacular.  Good Luck to all!  Can’t wait to hear the stories and see the pictures!  As I write you must be getting up and ready.  Mom and Dad

Posted by: Bruce Cumback on 8/6/2022 at 1:26 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Team Enjoys Rest Day in the Snow

Our mood was a reflection of how the snow fell today. Slow and relaxed. After a really hard day yesterday, the team enjoyed recovering in our tents. Reading, writing, and watching movies. And how could we forget the amazing pizza meal for lunch?! Not able to see past our campsite, it's really nice to be living in a world of snow.

Till next time,

RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Unable to Climb

The Four Day Climb August 3 - 6 was unable to make a summit attempt due to continued rain throughout the night. RMI Guide Nikki Champion reported that rain began at Camp Muir around 10 pm and continued throughout the night. Light rain continued to fall this morning. The teams are planning to leave Camp Muir around 9:30 am heading downhill to Paradise.

We expect them to return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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Being a first-timer, although the trip turned out to be incomplete, took away a couple of things from the experience:

1. Now I know that it is doable and will come back to get to the summit next year
2. The basic training and know-how will be helpful for future activities (thanks to all the guides)

Personally, I thought, although summitting was out of the question due to bad weather, going up to Ingrahm flat was possible in the morning and would have given us some experience regarding rope travel. Not sure, if something else other than the weather was under consideration for this decision not to go to Ingrahm flat

Finally, I plan to come back next year. Would it be possible to get some sort of concession that time due to the fact that we could not do the second part at all this time around?

Thanks

—manoj

 

 

Posted by: Manoj Devasarma on 8/9/2023 at 4:24 pm


Huascaran: Elias & Team Enjoying Rest Days in Huaraz

Good evening from Huaraz. The team is spending a couple rest days in town after our acclimatization phase on Yannapacha and Chopicalqui. This phase was, on its own, a legit climbing objective with high and technical peaks where our team stepped it up and proved to be a very fit, mentally tough and a determined one. We sure are now acclimatized and ready for the highest peak on Earth located in between the tropics, Huascaran. Follow along for the second half of our expedition starting tomorrow. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Beren & Team Rest Day in Puebla

Our travels so far have been action packed and the team enjoyed a relaxing rest/exploration day yesterday. The colonial city of Puebla is a beautiful place to see the sights and we did a little sleeping in before taking it to the streets. Puebla is a city that certainly felt the effects of the recent earthquake and as you walk around town, you can see folks tending to the damage, repairing walls and buildings. It is remarkable that the damage was not more widespread, but we are all happy to see that the beautiful town of Puebla has survived. Now we are off to Orizaba! Tonight we will stay in the Piedra Grande hut and begin our climb early tomorrow morning. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Beren & Team Take First Acclimatization Hike

On our drive from Mexico City we were treated to views of La Malinche, Ixta and Pico de Orizaba. Today’s clarity was one for the books and we made the most of it on our first acclimatization hike. One of the advantages of this style of trip is that you can pretty quickly get in position to be at altitude AND get a good night’s rest indoors. After a beautiful hike through the “arboles ponderosicas” we made it to some lounging at our cabana before dinner. Hope everyone up North is doing great! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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