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Aconcagua: Gately and Team Gain Great Views

December 21, 2016

Posted by: Steve Gately, Hannah McGowan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 17,100'

The wind battered our tents for most of the night but tapered towards the morning. Today our goal was to reach the col in between Aconcagua and Ameghino at 17,100 ft. With the winds at camp blowing at a strong 20 MPH we bumped up and prepared for the few hour climb to our destination. Shortly into our ascent we put our crampons on for the first time this trip as the brisk wind kept the snow frozen an firm. The team did great with yet another push into higher altitude and we found the winds to be very manageable. We passed through the col with little effort and walked a few more minutes to where we get a massive view of the Andes stretching out to the North. Furthest in the distance is Mercedario, the 5th tallest peak in South America at roughly 22,275 ft. It's early afternoon now and we're all back at camp safely. We'll take a few hours to rest and re-hydrate before starting the stoves for dinner. Tomorrow the winds are expected to increase yet again and we'll take this opportunity to rest and prepare for lighter winds and our move to Camp II (18,000 ft.) on Friday. RMI Guide Steve Gately and Team

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Can’t stop thinking about all of you! Stay as warm as possible, incredibly safe, and full of the spirit of adventure which drew you to the very spot on which you are now standing! Peggy and John

Posted by: Peggy on 12/22/2016 at 10:36 am

A special shout out to Boyd to stay save and warm. We are keeping all the members up to date on your climb.
Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas while you’re “on top of the world.” . Here’s hoping the wind is at your back, otherwise the next blog will remind us Lori’s dad’s stories: “When I was a kid, we had to walk to school in 4 ft of snow, uphill, against the wind, both ways!”
Stay safe and warm!

Posted by: Lori/Karen/Maty on 12/22/2016 at 9:56 am

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Post Storm

December 5, 2016

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 9,100'

The wind finally quit this morning, about 20 minutes before the sun hit to start a much better day. It still wasn't a climbing day for us though. There were still winds blowing snow off the ridge we needed to crest. They were dying down, but not quickly enough for my tastes. We dug out and dried out down at Vinson's Low Camp... Licking our wounds, so to speak, after the epic storm. The team up at high camp seemed to have survived the blow and similarly, dug out and rested today. The teams with us at low camp went for a late afternoon start on moving up, We'll give it a shot tomorrow. Finally with a couple of days of semi stable forecast in our favor. After several days of a constant roar it is great to be back to profound silence... the kind that stretches to the horizons. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

June 9, 2016 - 1:56 am PT We awoke this morning inside a ping pong ball. Watching the weather for a few hours revealed a slightly improving trend, certainly no deterioration. We decided that it was manageable and set forth. The clouds we traveled through and among were friendly and trail breaking was quite doable for this squad. We kept flowing up until we strolled into 14 Camp. We dumped a hefty load of supplies to ease our eventual move to the upper mountain. We are sitting pretty back at 11,000' Camp, fed and ready for bed. Nice work team! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Dear B-Law, if you’re reading this note you already know. The house has been boarded up. The doors. The windows. Everything. We’re at the Comfort Inn. Room 112. I love you. Austin

Have fun Team. Brad, send me a postcard from the top.

Posted by: Austin on 6/9/2016 at 6:40 pm

Hi Mattie-

We miss you so much and love hearing about your team’s progress through Jake’s updates. The boys, the PC’s, Adryan, Taira and I are all praying for favorable weather for you in the days ahead. Stay warm, rested, hydrated and focused! Love from us all!

Lil

Posted by: Lil on 6/9/2016 at 6:38 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Move to Camp One

May 23, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

May 22, 2016 - 9:43 p.m. PDT Our first day of climbing as a complete team went really well. Although clouds obscured our views of the incredible scenery around us, we had much better visibly than we had yesterday. Plus, our efforts yesterday lightened our loads just enough that today's climbing was quite manageable. Our camp here at 7,800' is nice, but the snow that's been falling since we got here has made our kitchen/dining tent a most popular place. Our Posh House is always the center of community here; it's the place we can eat and share a hot drink or two and be out of the elements. The conversations that come out of that place... With luck, we'll move camp to 9,600' tomorrow, but we sure would like some improvement in the weather! Everyone is doing great and looking forward to moving up the mountain. Hopefully we'll be talking from 9,600' tomorrow. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale, and Chris Ebeling and the crew

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Mike - Mark Winter says he is not concerned about you as long as you stay away from bicycles.
Your scuba family is watching each day and sharing your adventure - although vicariously.

Jim

Posted by: Jim Pearson on 5/25/2016 at 10:08 am

Hey Paul, SO incredibly proud AND jealous of you! Just know that I am living every step vicariously through you and you make your journey to the top! You make training for Whitney seem like a walk in the park - at sea level! Be safe and ENJOY!!

Posted by: Virginia on 5/24/2016 at 7:19 pm

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Aconcagua: Nugent & Team Carry to Camp Two

January 20, 2016

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 16,400'

Hola! Billy here back at Camp 1 chilling (out) and filling (up on food) after a flawless carry to Camp 2. We moved well and had little trouble putting in our cache of the usual food, fuel, and cold weather/summit gear. We bumped into friends and acquaintances all along the way enjoying the better than decent weather. There were a few minutes of flurries and even a little thunder in the distance but nothing of consequence. As I write this we're basking in the sun, satisfied with the day's work. Oh, we also met our third guide who traversed the mountain from the other base camp (Plaza de Mulas) and descended with us back to camp. His name is Pato, which means "duck," and he's a pretty cool dude. Not much else to report other than some inclement weather in the forecast, hopefully it doesn't slow our roll too much... Until our next dispatch, RMI Guide Billy Nugent and team

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Randy…sounds like things are going well so far. In fact with all your chilling and filling and basking in the sun it sounds like you are on a very leisurely vacation…makes me a little jealous…haha. I know better but I hope you are enjoying the challenge. Lucas wanted me to tell you his great news that he just passed his MIG certification for a vertical up weld. He is so excited!
I miss you and I’m hoping Mother Nature remains kind to you.
Love Lisa

Posted by: Lisa Irwin on 1/21/2016 at 10:26 am

It’s National Hug Day, so a great big hug with warm thoughts to Dr. H from all of us! Have a good climb today!

Posted by: Linda Sitton on 1/21/2016 at 6:55 am

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team at Base Camp

January 10, 2016

Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

Hello folks, Team 3 is resting and doing well back at base camp on Aconcagua. There are a lot of teams that have retreated from the upper mountain and have departed base camp. Last night Pepper and one of our team members, Brian, played guitar and sang for the entire base camp and yes, they received a standing ovation. As for our team, we are not quite ready to throw in the towel but I have to be honest, the weather and the forecast is looking horrible with extremely high winds continuing for several days. We will keep you posted to our progress. As for now, the team is really happy not having to hold tents up from the inside and actually enjoying visiting the bathrooms. RMI Guides JJ Justman and Pepper Dee

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Bonjour Éric,

Un petit message qui j’espère t’arrivera où que tu sois. Je suis sûr que tu réussis à atteindre tes objectifs. Et pour une fois, oublie ce vieux dicton qui dit : “Quand tu as atteint le sommet de la montagne, continue de grimper”. On pense à toi, on t’aime et n’hésite pas si tu as le moindre problème pour redescendre à m’appeler : je ferai le max ! À tantôt, Phil

Posted by: Phil on 1/11/2016 at 7:36 am

Hey Brad! We sure hope the weather turns enough for you to summit. We can’t wait to hear all about your trip and hope it will include a summit. If not, it sure will be great memories for yall, just stay safe. As big as that mountain is, just know that you are loved even more, way more!! We think about you every day. We love and miss you! Love Mimi and Dad XO

Posted by: Mimi Rearden on 1/11/2016 at 7:18 am

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Alpamayo Expedition: Schellens and Team Arrive at Base Camp

July 25, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 14,200'

Today we awoke to blue sky's and light wind, coffee in bed followed by a fantastic breakfast. After breaking camp we helped load the donkeys and continued hiking up the beautiful Santa Cruze valley. With every step more sunning mountain seemed to reveal themselves, truly an awe inspiring place. After a couple hours of hiking we turned north and climbed some switchbacks before sauntering into our Base Camp at 14,200'. We all got our first look at Alpamayo, one of the most beautiful peaks I have ever seen. Shortly after arriving to our Base Camp lunch was served, soup and pasta, quite tasty. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing and bathing in the river. The team is doing very well and we are all excited to be here. Thanks for following along with us RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team

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Giddy up Rob

Posted by: Jay on 7/26/2015 at 4:47 am

Donkeys? Unnecessary. Don’t you guys from the East Coast (VT and NY) know that the CA boys (Jesse and John) are going to get soft if you don’t work them. Load them up! Trudge on John.

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 7/25/2015 at 10:28 pm

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Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Reach Llama Corral

July 24, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 12,300'

Today we made our first steps towards Alpamayo. After an early start from Huaraz we drove north for about three hours with the entire Cordillera Blanca Range glistening in the morning light. Truly spectacular. After reaching Cashapampa, we disembarked from our van, met our cook and helped load the donkey with our gear for the trip. Finally the whole expedition starts. Excitement was high as we began our approach to base camp. The first hour and a half of the hike was up steep switchbacked terrain after which it mellowed and became a gradual meandering trail up the Santa Cruse Valley. Our camp tonight is called Llama Corral, 12,300 feet, and about halfway up the valley. Tomorrow we should reach base camp by early afternoon. The team is doing very well, everyone is climbing strong, staying healthy, and excited for what's to come. Thanks for following along with us! RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Meet in Moscow

July 11, 2015

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Hello from Russia! Most of the team is here and we will be meeting the rest in a couple of days. I am excited as ever to visit this great place once again! In the Moscow streets I saw the typical herds of tour buses visiting this beautiful city. I saw brides and grooms holding hands placing their lock of committed love on the bridge of trees. I made dinner reservations at my favorite restaurant where neither of us could understand each other and we all smiled and laughed. This is one of my favorite adventures! We are tourists. And we are welcome with open arms to the wonderful people of this country. We just finished dinner and yes those that know me, I had beef carpaccio and pasta with truffles finished with a double espresso. Yes, the life of a mountain guide! Tomorrow we will enjoy a beautiful city tour where we continue to learn the deep history and culture of Russia. I like to rely on heavy images and videos. After all, who wants to read my incoherent ramblings. A picture speaks a thousand words. So stay tuned and enjoy our adventure! RMI Guide JJ Justman and the team

Mt. McKinley: Hahn’s Team Ventures Out to the Edge of the World

July 7, 2015

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Monday July 6th 11:23 pm PT Our rest day at 14,200 ft was jam packed with naps and meals in the POSH tent. It wouldn't have been a great day for moving higher anyway since we watched a storm take over the upper mountain. Steve Gately led the team out to the "Edge of the World" before the clouds came around and each climber got the thrill of looking down thousands of feet to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. In the late afternoon, we all put in a work session to improve the snow walls protecting our tents. By dinner, the storm had arrived at 14K Camp and snow and wind took over outside. We'd love to move up tomorrow so we'll hope this weather moves on through. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Most Popular Entries

Aconcagua: Gately and Team Gain Great Views

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Aconcagua: Nugent & Team Carry to Camp Two

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team at Base Camp

Alpamayo Expedition: Schellens and Team Arrive at Base Camp

Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Reach Llama Corral

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Meet in Moscow

Mt. McKinley: Hahn’s Team Ventures Out to the Edge of the World

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