Good afternoon from Camp 1 again. We changed our plan just a touch, and instead of moving this morning, we did a carry to the Col. We are back to rest for the afternoon, as we continue to trigger our acclimatization process, and having lighten our loads will pay back with hopefully an earlier arrival to high camp tomorrow. We got eyes on the wall as we approached the Col this morning, and everyone got really excited, at the same time as they felt good for the ice climbing training over the last couple winters; the French Direct to Alpamayo is no joke!
Stay tuned for tomorrow's progress,
RMI Guide Elías and Team.
Well... This is it. The final blog for the July 1 - 13, 2016 is sadly here. However, as is the case, we had an amazing day in Saint Petersburg! Our local city tour guide Elena, was amazing as we strolled around the entire city. I have been here 13 times now and today was simply put, the coolest tour I have had in St Petes. I am sad as I sit here writing this blog during our last dinner. Our entire team has been absolutely amazing. It is not every climb where complete strangers come together and have such an amazing adventure.
Thank you for following along. The team sends giant hugs and kisses back home to friends and family! Thanks for your support.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Hi everyone. Today was a tough day. The team departed camp just before 3AM with moderate winds. As we climbed along the traverse above 17,000 feet the wind was getting dangerously strong. As the the team stopped to clip into climbing ropes for safety, another climber NOT on our team slipped, fell and slid down the mountain nearly a thousand feet. I was relieved to see the climber get to their feet but I am still not sure of their condition. I believe and hope they are ok. Her local guide climbed down and assisted and again, I believe all is fine.
I was extremely thankful our team did not get sideswiped as the climber fell. Needless to say, there were a few team members with very shocked expressions. Being roped up for safety we continued to climb higher. As we were approaching the long traverse into the saddle, four hours from the summit at our pace I witnessed another climber get knocked off his feet by the wind. Luckily he slid a hundred feet and stopped.
It was at that point that I needed to quit thinking and just trust my gut. Our team turned at 17,700 feet and we focused on getting back down safely. And we did.
We are all back at camp and we are now making the decision if we give the summit another shot. The forecast is not in our favor. Either way, up or down, we are focused on safety and I am sure a little fun is in store for us one way or another.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Hello from Casa de Piedra at 11,000 feet. The team had another great day trekking under an Argentinian sky. Speaking of sky we have had a little bit of precipitation. The clouds engulfed Aconcagua so we were unable to get a glimpse of the mountain. Hopefully tomorrow! Everyone is feeling fantastic by the way. We send shouts out to family and friends. Tomorrow... Base Camp!
RMI Guides JJ Justman and JM Gorum
JM : I am following your climb, enjoying the scenery. Enjoy, have fun and be safe.
Posted by: Floyd Tirey on 2/4/2016 at 12:14 pm
I expected the Rockies to be a little rockier than this…that John Denver is full of shit. Have a great time Greg…watch out for Bigfoot because I heard from a friend of mines dad that he lives there.
RMI Guide Brent Okita and the Four Day Summit Climb reached Columbia Crest, the highest point on Mt. Rainier and in Washington State this morning. Brent reported gorgeous weather and an improved route. The team will spend some time on the summit before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. At Camp Muir the team will rest and repack before continuing their descent. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations climbers!
You just can't make this stuff up folks. It started as a normal morning. We woke and ate rice portage, followed by some confusion on when we were leaving and how far we would go. This relaxed sense of time and a schedule is called Nepali time. Everything takes longer then you think and no one has a direct answer. We sat around a bit then we were informed there was going to be a goat sacrifice. Bells, chanting and smoke filled the air as a momma goat and and baby goat were taken into the temple and killed. Then the goats were decapitated by the teeth of a priest. Shortly afterwards we ate some bread and piece of goat and were on our way to the next camp. After walking roughly four hours we arrived to our jungle camp, a forest of marijuana. The porters took machetes to the marijuana, stumped it down, then we set up our tents. With so many people it is a sea of yellow tents, with no room to walk between them. As I write this it has began to sprinkle a little, so we are settling into our home for the night and having tea time. Tomorrow we will hit the trail again, getting closer to our Base Camp.
Talk to you later,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Geez Louise! Like I said, what you are experiencing is like a movie! Small town minnesota girl! Who would ever dream that you would be doing what you are!
After learning cramponing, rope travel, ice axe arrest and crevasse rescue skills, to name a few, the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir made their summit attempt today. The teams have been training at Camp Muir since their arrival on Monday.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Adam Knoff lead their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning on a beautiful, clear and windless day. They will enjoy the views, give hugs and high fives and take a few photos before beginning their descent from the crater rim. They will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp for a celebration and wrap up of their week together on the mountain.
Congratulations to today's teams!
I was thinking back to this day one year ago when a group of strangers set out to climb to Camp Muir.
Little did we know the challenges we would face and how we would be far closer then we started and with such an amazing story to tell. Hope everyone is doing well.
Posted by: Jamie Watts on 9/24/2019 at 10:56 am
Congratulations P! You did it! So super proud of you! Yahoo! Glad your on your way back! Phew! Xoxoxox ❤️❤️
This is Christina with the RMI Volcano Mexico team, and we are currently eating tacos, chicken tacos, in a hut at 14,000 feet on the side of Pico de Orizaba. The weather is in and the peak above us has a new blanket of snow that reaches all the way down to our camp for the night. After our extreme weather on Ixta, we're hoping for calmer winds and clear skies. We'd even settle for clouds at this point. The two-hour jeep ride up here to our high camp today was the perfect illustration of our group this week. We found ourselves laughing at David's stories and turning to Rob for his pop culture references. Craig was there with his ever joyful spirit and always had M&M's to offer around. Lorenzo made sure everyone was comfortable and happy. Steve constantly amazes us with his strength inconsistency. Then there's Patty who rocks at everything she does and always enjoys a good laugh. Somehow this group was able to make a bumpy dirt road fun. JT and I feel so lucky to have spent this week with these wonderful people and climbing in the high mountains of Mexico. Orizaba tomorrow. Hope for good weather. Thank you.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
RMI Guide Christina Dale calls in from Pico de Orizaba High camp.
It was a rather leisurely day for us here on Elbrus. We slept in until the tents started to approach the right temperature for roasting a Thanksgiving turkey, then dawdled over breakfast. We fixed some blisters, took some naps, and admired our view of the summit above, where plumes of snow spiraled away into the air. Newly made friends of ours pushed for the summit from Camp 1, beginning their push at 12:30 last night, and we felt for them, watching the gusts of wind break over the summit like waves.
At 11:30 it seemed appropriate that we do something before everyone fully embraced the sloth life, so we took our technical gear to the tow of the glacier for a quick climbing skills refresher. The afternoon brought on more napping, a home run derby with a ski pole and rocks, and some playtime with our resident Camp 1 puppy. Our friends came back having successfully reached the easy summit in a long, 14-hour day of climbing. The evening cloud watching had been superb, as large cumulonimbus clouds have blown up in the sky to create fantastical shapes. The evening rain had just started to drum on the tents as I write, but if the pattern we've seen means anything, we should wake to clear skies in the morning. We hope to take a trip uphill to Lenz Rocks, putting in a small cache and getting valuable acclimatization time.
All for now,
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
I'm writing this dispatch from our new home at 11,200'. Everyone did great on our move today, hauling our sleds and heavy backpacks up 3,400' from the base of Ski Hill. The weather started as mostly cloudy, then transitioned to white out conditions where you could not differentiate sky from glacier. We flew on instruments most of the day today. There was also snow and drifting snow that made the climbing even more challenging. Everybody climbed strong and came into camp in style.
Tomorrow we sleep in and rest a little bit and then head back down to 10,300' to retrieve the cache that we left there yesterday. It should be a much easier day than today.
We'll check back tomorrow to let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Thanks for the update! Glad to hear all is well. Keep up the good work everyone, and remember the power of meditation, David!
P.S. The wheelbarrow is now full of gray, moldy peanuts, being nibbled on by squirrels who are sneaking into the garage…what should I do?
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Safe travels home to everyone on the team. Can’t wait to see your pictures Ryan!!
Posted by: Shirley Tharp on 7/12/2016 at 4:46 pm
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