Most Popular Entries
The Team is back down at base camp after a successful carry to Camp 1, located at 16,400'. There is no snow between Plaza Argentina and Camp 1 which means lots of scree. This makes footwork more difficult and the combination of high altitude means the Team ate a lot at dinner and are anticipating a good night's sleep. We will have a rest day tomorrow before moving up the mountain.
The weather has been good despite some high winds, we are anticipating deteriorating weather over the next 36 hours. The Team is gelling and getting to know each other, lots of laughs and some inside jokes already, so we're doing just fine. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King & Team
We made it to
Plaza Argentina today! The first RMI team of the year is blazing a path uphill. We left our camp at Casa de Piedra early this morning to beat the heat, and to cross the Vacas and Relinchos Rivers before they swelled with snowmelt. A few brave souls crossed the Vacas on foot, surprised at how cold the pre-sunrise water felt on their unsuspecting toes. The rest of the team, less brave maybe, though certainly smarter, decided to take a free ride across the river courtesy of our mule drivers. Some were more comfortable astride our equine friends than others, but nobody fell in.
Once across the river, we started up the Relinchos Valley. Unlike the Vacas, which is wide and expansive, the Relinchos Valley is narrow and has steep walls. The relief is more dramatic here, and the elevation gain becomes less subtle. The team made quick work of it though, and after a few guanaco sightings we were lounging in the sun less than an hour from basecamp. We lounged as long as we could bear it, and then finished off the last stretch into camp. Since arriving, we've set up our tents, organized some gear, and done a lot of eating and drinking. We ate as much dinner as we could, and even enjoyed a welcome cake courtesy of the basecamp staff. It's good living here at basecamp, and we plan to live in style for at least a few more days.
RMI Guides JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, and Avery Parrinello
After a full day of travel, the team has made it to Cheget. We enjoyed our time in Moscow, but it always feels good to be in the mountains. The air is crisp, and the rivers are swollen. From the hotel we can see multiple hanging glaciers, and from town we can easily see the East summit of
Elbrus.
We've got a few things to take care of here over the coming days, but it won't be long until we're living life up in the hills!
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
Congratulations to today's
Five Day Summit Climb Team July 8-12, 2017 who reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7 am this morning with 100% of their team. The climbers enjoyed an hour on the summit of Mt. Rainier under blue skies and moderate winds. The will descend to Camp Muir and continue down to Paradise this afternoon to conclude their program.
The Mexico Team is resting comfortably at the
Piedra Grande Hut on Orizaba. Yesterday we had a nice day off in Puebla, everyone took advantage of the good food, area surrounding the Zocalo and some visited a car museum.
Leaving Puebla this morning we took in more of the countryside and ended up at a century old soap factory turned climber's hostel run by Sr. Reyes. We met his 93 year old father and enjoyed a nice lunch after sorting our gear for the climb.
Our drive up here is on a fairly rough road through pine trees and the grassy lower slopes of Orizaba. We are currently at 14,000' sitting in a light cloud with views of the mountain from time to time.The team will wake around midnight and hopefully have good weather to climb.
Keep your fingers crossed that we get a chance to summit Orizaba!
RMI Guides Mike King & Steve Gately
On The Map
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Nick Hunt reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent reported 45 mph winds on the top. The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
June 22, 2016 - 12:17 a.m. P.D.T.
The final RMI Expeditions
Denali trip of 2016 is kicking off. The team assembled in Anchorage today, with a few reunions and a few introductions, and made the traditional pilgrimage to Talkeetna. Bill, our Denali Overland driver, got the van out of the Anchorage rush hour traffic and out onto the open road with big views of the Chugach foothills and the Talkeetna Mountains. After a last stop for provisions in Wasilla, we cruised on up to epic views of the Alaska Range itself just before pulling into Talkeetna. We settled our climbing gear at the airplane hangar and checked in to the venerable Talkeetna Motel. Some of the team ventured out to sample local beer and appetizers, some went straight to the mattresses after long days of prep and travel. We'll dial down on pre-climb details tomorrow morning...Tonight it was unwind and get settled in the land of the midnight sun.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 18, 2016 - 12:40 am PT
Hi all, sorry there hasn't been a dispatch since we summited, we've been busy and on the move a lot. The team did a fantastic job climbing the
Upper Rib yesterday and we all made the summit just after 7:00 PM. After some hugs, photos, and congratulations we began our descent down to 17 Camp on the West Buttress. Thirteen hours after we started climbing we were crawling into our tents, exhausted but very satisfied with our accomplishment. This morning we woke up early to get low on the mountain before the 50 mph forecasted winds rolled in this afternoon. I am truly amazed at how strong this team is, even after a big summit day everyone climbed very well as we made our way down the Buttress and fixed lines to 14 Camp. Here we took about an hour to retrieve our cache and re pack before we hit the trail to 11 Camp. I thought for sure folks would be tired at 11 camp, but no. We dug up our cache here rigged for traveling with sleds and kept descending. We are currently at the base of Ski Hilll, 7800', getting a little rest and waiting for the cold of the night before we walk the lower Kahiltna Glacier back to the landing strip. Weather permitting we will be on board an airplane first thing in the morning.
Thanks so much for following along throughout our expedition
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Upper West Rib Team
On The Map
June 3, 2016 - 10:54 pm PT
The
Upper West Rib team started the day like any reasonable person in Talkeetna would, lots of coffee, eggs and bacon at the Roadhouse. From there we headed down to the K2 Hangar and went through all our gear and got packed up for flying into the Alaska range tomorrow. In the afternoon we had our NPS orientation and put the final touches on gear packing before relaxing a little. It began raining here in town but even the inclement weather couldn't bring down the stoke in our group. Everyone is extremely excited to get into the Range. Keep your fingers crossed for good fly weather for us tomorrow.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Post
Antisana. Hmmmm? It is hard to put into words how a body feels after running full speed ahead for 36 hours without sleep. I take that back, we did close our eyes from 7 to 10 pm last night but if you asked anyone to tell you about their dreams they will half heatedly recount how their tent partner and the thought of eating instant oatmeal at 10:30 pm was more of a nightmare. So sleep was hard to come by.
Once "awake", we forced down what calories we could and loaded our climbing kits into the jeeps. From base camp it was a 20-minute 4x4 trail to the starting point. Like all the other mountains down here the first hour starts with a dirt trail before gaining the toe of the glacier. We all did so about 1am and despite this being our second big climb in a row, everyone showed good spirit and stamina.
For the next three hours we crossed spectacular crevasse bridges, cramponed up steep pitches and weaved through giant ice features.
At 18,000 feet, we took a break to search out the final piece of the route finding puzzle which ended at the summit ridge. Once the ridge is gained it is a straight forward climb to the top. Unfortunately there was nothing straight forward about the terrain from our position to the ridge. With a mandatory 55-degree slope exposed to a crevasse below and having very tricky snow conditions, the risk of taking our team into that terrain was just too high. So it was here I decided to turn the climb around. The good news was, up to that point everybody climbed really well and said unanimously that
Antisana was one of the coolest mountains they have ever been on.
After a safe descent we rested at camp for a couple hours then took the magic bus to a hacienda for some much needed food, beer and rest.
Tomorrow we are off to our final and most challenging mountain,
Chimborazo.
Stay tuned for the next chapter.
Adam and team wishing all of our loved ones back home big hugs. We can't wait to come home and see you.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
.jpg)
16,400-that made me want to turn up my oxygen. Hope everyone is doing well. Virg we are fine, but as usual having computer problems - so if you don’t hear from me that is why. Love, Mom
Posted by: Barbara(mom) on 1/5/2018 at 7:16 am
Woohoo, 16400! Warm and dry in Colo., you’re not missing any skiing! Wishing you all continuing success up the mountain!
Posted by: Carol Clark on 1/5/2018 at 6:15 am
View All Comments