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Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier: Burns and Team 100% to the Summit

We are happy to report that the entire team stood on top of Mt. Baker this morning. We had clear skies and spectacular views of Washington’s volcanoes to the south. The team climbed strong. We're on the descent and headed back to the trailhead.

RMI Guide Seth Burns and Team

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RMI Guide Lindsay Mann Completes Level 3 Avalanche Course

With support from the Eddie Bauer - RMI Guide Grant, RMI Guide Lindsay Mann took part in an American Avalanche Institute Level 3 Avalanche Course this winter in Jackson, Wyoming. Afterward, Lindsay sat down to reflect on the course. Snow pit instruction (Lindsay Mann) This past January I participated in an American Avalanche Institute Level 3 Course in Jackson, Wyoming. A Level 3 Avi Course entails a great deal of prep work as participants need to complete snow observations, make numerous snow pit profiles, and spend ample experience traveling and making decisions in avalanche terrain before the course even begins. After several days of classroom and field learning, the course concluded with several testing components. These test involved completing a full data snow pit in under an hour, finding three buried avalanche beacons in less than seven minutes, and completing a written test. Recent avalance debris (Lindsay Mann) The conditions for our course were ideal for learning. Midway through the course a major storm cycle came through the area, resulting in rapidly changing conditions within the snowpack that had a wide array of implications on avalanche risk. While the class focused on the technical aspects of snow crystal identification and anticipating the array of components that contribute to avalanche forecasting, we were also able to enjoy some great skiing between the times we spent observing and forecasting the rapidly changing snowpack. Lindsay skiing during the course (Lindsay Mann). I walked away from the course with a sense of accomplishment, as this is the highest-level avalanche education course available in the U.S., and a greater understanding for mechanics of avalanches and and avalanche forecasting. The complexities of avalanches are remarkable and this course was invaluable in contributing to the toolbox of skills upon which I rely for decision making in the mountains and in avalanche terrain. ________ Lindsay Mann is a Senior Guide at RMI Expeditions and a NCAA D1 Skiing Champion. She has climbed and guided around the world, from Peru to Alaska. Learn more about Lindsay and see her upcoming trips here…
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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Trip Comes to An End

After an excellent climb with perfect conditions our team descended to Tlachichuca. It was hard to believe that all in the same day we could have climbed again by moonlight, this time looking at Popo and Ixta hit by the morning sun. It was a warm day and our team did a fantastic job handling the high altitude and moving securely in the rarified air. Again, our timing was ideal, just as we pulled into the hut to pack, the clouds rolled in and obscured the mountain. These were some of the best climbing conditions I have seen down here and the entire team appreciated the chance to stand on top in warm, windless weather. Now we bid our farewells and look forward to the next time we all get to try our hand at climbing these sleeping giants. Though this trip will be tough to top, til then! RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Denali Expedition: Parrinello & Team Fly to Base Camp

Thursday, June 2, 2022 - 9:45 pm PT

We did it! We’re here! The Alaska Range! After a stressful day and half of packing we’ve finally arrived. We took off first thing in the morning to avoid a hot mushy landing strip. The flight was beautiful, cloudless and most importantly smooth. The views were spectacular and plane ride mostly silent as we looked on with awe at the majestic mountains wearing glaciers as hats. Once we landed at base camp we set to unloading our nearly 1,500lbs of gear. Then began the real fun, setting up camp. We dug caches, a kitchen, a dining room and 4 tent platforms. Then we erected our tents and got moved in. After that we did what smart mountaineers do best, lounged in our tents to avoid the heat and intense sun. Eventually it cooled down and we did a delightful burrito dinner. Now we’re laying down for an early (and short) night as we’ll be walking in the wee hours of the day in order to have firm snow and reasonable temps.

Spirits are high! Our elevation is low! And the team is excited to move up the mountain.

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed and team

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Happy Birthday Rebecca! Love that you’re starting off the year in the most epic way! Amazed and impressed and always cheering for you. XOXOXOXOXOXO Kyla

Posted by: Kyla on 6/4/2022 at 8:27 am

Happy Birthday, Becs!  Hope you get someone to take a special picture of you “celebrating” on the mountain.  Love you!  ❤️M&D

Posted by: Peggy and Ed Baack on 6/4/2022 at 8:20 am


Denali Expedition: High Winds Keep Van Deventer and Team from Moving to High Camp

Friday May 27, 2022 10:41pm PT

We had a forecast that was promising. It would be blowing up high in the morning but would diminish and that Saturday looked like a promising summit day. So we woke early, and saw what we expected - winds blasting up high but otherwise clear and blue. We are a quick breakfast, broke camp, and were walking before most other teams. As we climbed a huge plunge of snow left 17 and jetted far into the atmosphere. We were glancing at it wondering how quickly the winds really would die. We were sheltered from it and moved from cold in the shade to very warm in the sun as we climbed the fixed lines. As we needed the top, a full roar made itself heard - wind in the other side of the ridge. We stepped around and into it - maybe 15 mph, not enough to knock you around but COLD. It was going to be a full-fledged fight to keep faces unfrozen, so we made the quick decision to turn back and head for 14 Camp. There it was calm and warm.

Tomorrow looks nice and well regroup and rest from today. We have some hope that Sunday into the beginning of the week will give us a shot.

RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team

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We’re keeping track of all of you every day.  What an amazing experience, just seeing the beauty of your pictures and reading how aware and skillful you have to be with Nature especially the great Denali.  I hope you are learning a bit more about yourselves, too.  Much love and prayers for your
safety and well being.  Barbara/Mom

Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/29/2022 at 6:55 pm

Go team! Thanks for sharing your daily updates. I hope the weather calms down so that you can proceed. For the football fans amongst you, Real Madrid won the Champion’s league final yesterday against Liverpool, thanks to their amazing goalkeeper Courtois. Weather is amazing in Barcelona (this is for Albert).

Posted by: Imma on 5/28/2022 at 10:56 pm


Mt. Baker: Andy Bond and Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

Our Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier team led by RMI Guide Andy Bond reached the summit early today. Due to a forecast of clouds and rain, the team decided to make their summit attempt a day early. Lucky them, this worked, and they reached the 10.781' summit!  The rains hit when they got back to camp, so they will do their best to stay dry, and hike out early tomorrow.

Congratulations team! 

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KAT AND SAR WHOOOOOOOO. Sorry we lied what was hardest

Posted by: Wes on 8/21/2021 at 9:14 am

Congratulations everyone you made it! Josh your dad and I are so excited for you!  Awesome job to the whole team!!!

Posted by: Robin on 8/20/2021 at 5:12 pm


Melissa Arnot’s Ankle Recovers For Trip To Camp 2

It always amazes me how much of a temperature extreme you can experience in the mountains. The last few days have been really good for me, as I left Basecamp and made my way to Camp 2. At 5 a.m. this morning, I woke up at 21,000 ft. to the sound of wind whipping at the tent door and a light frost coating the inside of the tent from my nighttime breath. As I sluggishly pulled my boots on and fidgeted with the frozen ends of my crampon straps, I shivered a little and squinted out to the first morning light, hitting the glacier well below me. A cup of spiced cider, and a small internal battle about whether or not to leave my Igniter Jacket on (I shed it), and I was out the door, crampons communing with the ice in a way that makes me smile to hear. The crunching is like a secret language that the crampons speak to the ice in, and though I don't always understand it, it is something familiar and comfortable for me, a feeling of moving and being stable at the same time. This morning ended my first rotation to Camp 2, and I am finally feeling that the climbing is starting now. My preparations for this trip started so long ago, when Camp 2 was only a small glimmer in the future, and a memory from last season. Now it is fully upon us, and this season is forming its own voice each day. I am here this year with a different eye and a different attitude than what I had last year. I enjoy thinking back to my trip and all of the joys and learning that it provided me...but this year is shaping up to be quite different. About two weeks ago, on the first few days of our trek in, I twisted my ankle. Frustrated, I tried to remember that this expedition will last for months, and certainly there is time in there to heal. As the weeks have snuck up on us, I have been reminded that things don't heal so fast at 17,500 ft. My first morning walk out into the Icefall I turned back, the pain in my ankle causing me to wonder if I was doing more harm than what was needed at this early point in the trip. A few days rest were followed by another failed attempt to get to Camp 1, and a whole new round of frustration. I came down to Basecamp and went to the Himalayan Rescue Association Clinic for a professional opinion. I know I am stubborn, but as far as I can tell, there is no need to hurt myself to climb this mountain. The kind and professional doctors at the clinic did an exam, while I held my breath, and they hypothesized about the injuries...sprain, bone chip in my foot, and most surprisingly, a possible crack in my fibula. Fortunately, none of those injuries warrants a complete stop in activity. Little can be done up here, and as long as the pain is tolerable, I received the go-ahead to keep climbing. The boots that I am using are actually providing good support and, interestingly, the climbing downhill is the least painful and most stable. With this news, and a new humbled attitude, I finally made my way to Camp 1, a little slower than I would have liked, but without further harm to the ankle. Once I was in the tent at Camp 1, I took a deep breath and a grateful glance at the mountain surrounding me. A small smile captured my mind, as I looked at the ramen packages littering the tent. It is easy to forget about the ankle as I start to melt snow for my first of many packages of dehydrated, salted noodles. The tent is so hot in the midday, even at 19,800 ft., that I have to sit in the snow to keep cool. I laugh a little to myself as I think of what climbing means to me, and how silly this must look to anyone who hasn't been here. My day at camp is made up of eating noodles, sitting in the snow, and reading candy bar wrappers to see which ones are gluten-free (so maybe I can share with Dave Hahn, who is gluten-intolerant). I go to bed at 6 p.m. and then wake up twelve hours later to get to Camp 2. Peter, Ed and Jake are already at Camp 2, a few days ahead of me due to my change in plans. We spend a day there together, before they head down to Basecamp. I need one more day to acclimatize before rejoining them. My day spent alone at Camp 2 was a lot like the day at Camp 1, making piles of food that I have read the wrappers for and ones that still need to be investigated. The wind picked up in the afternoon, forcing the hot daytime temperatures to merge into a cold evening. I close my eyes in the tent, and wait for the alarm at 5 a.m. On my way down to Basecamp this morning, I passed by Dave, Seth and Erica, poking their heads out at Camp 1. The morning light is still well below them, but they are getting ready to go for a little walk. I poke my head into the tent and see the ramen packages, this time smiling because I don't have to eat them today. I continue my way to Basecamp, mostly in the shade of the mountains around me. The last 30 minutes, the sun wins the battle, and the temperature suddenly becomes unbearably warm. I stop to put on some sunscreen and take off a layer, happy to have only a few minutes left until I reach Basecamp and glad to have finished my first rotation.
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Aconcagua Expedition: Hailes & Team Have First Full Day at Plaza Mulas

Sunday, January 16, 2022  4:01 PM PST

After a rough first night at base camp because of the big jump in altitude, we started the day a little slow. We went for a nice casual walk to check out the local penitentes and breathe off the slight headaches that lingered from the night before. It was beautiful walking into the 15’ tall glacier spires. After lunch we got to work sprucing up our camp. The whole team worked really hard shoveling, hoeing, and raking the rock filled dirt into plush flat platforms for our tents. We will sleep better tonight partly because the tents will be more comfy and partly because making the tents more comfy was exhausting. Another beautiful day in the mountains with a great team!

RMI Guide Walt Hailes & Team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Organize Gear in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly!

Wednesday, May 18, 2022 - 11:19 pm PT

Here is the first dispatch from the third RMI Denali team! We are all packed up and ready to fly in the morning. Our team was efficient and prepared today as we organized all the necessary items for a Denali expedition. The weather is beautiful in Talkeetna and we are excited for the climb ahead. 

RMI guides Jackson Breen, Matias Francis, JT Schmitt and team. 

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They’ve got great guides!

Posted by: George Strait on 5/20/2022 at 2:16 pm

Looks like a strong team!!!

Posted by: Anna Budayr on 5/20/2022 at 7:35 am


Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker and Team Set Out From Lukla

Mark Tucker here with the Everest Base Camp Trek team. No, internet access at this point, so I thought I'd check in with the satellite phone. So we're just outside of the Sagarmatha National Park. We had a great night in Lukla. We took a little time this morning leaving as we organized the loads with our porters. We are set with all our gear that is needed while we continue our trek to Base Camp. We're by the Tenzing Norgay Airstrip, where the STOL-type aircraft, acronym for Short Take Off and Landing type planes. Years ago a famous local Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay, with Sir Edmund Hillary supervising, spent a month revamping and lengthening the airstrip, but it is still quite a ride. The team had a beautiful hike approaching the Dudh Kosi River. It was fantastic. Good views, perfect weather. We are all looking really fine. The team is all doing very well and couldn't be happier. RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Mark - your posts are very much appreciated - thank you! It’s great to keep tabs on our girl, Susan :)  Please pass on my positive thoughts and prayers for a fabulous adventure.  Thanks again, Carol

Posted by: Carol Donovan on 3/23/2013 at 4:32 am

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