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Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Holding Tight at 14K for the Night

Friday, May 31, 2019 4:36 PM PT With the forecast still calling for heavy snow we have opted to stay in the confines of our camp here a 14K. The team enjoyed a late morning breakfast and is now napping away the afternoon. Sunday is still looking like our first possible day to fly off the glacier with the weather only improving into Monday and Tuesday. The plan as of now will still be to launch downhill around midday tomorrow and travel all the way to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna hopefully chasing improving weather down glacier and ultimately a flight out of here early Sunday morning. We'll see what hand we are dealt with tomorrow. The hope here is to avoid having to travel and set up camp in bad weather but rather time it just right that we walk straight into a plane. For the time being however, we rest and wait for our opportunity. RMI Guide Steve Gately
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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make the Move to High Camp

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 10:27 pm PT

Unlike two days ago, when we woke up there wasn't a hint of wind in sight. We had word from Mike Walter's team that the weather at 17,000' was perfect to, so we launched out of 14,000' Camp in high spirits. It was one of the most pleasant days I can remember on the West Buttress. Temps were comfortable, no wind, and the views unparalleled. It's also some of the most fun climbing. We were at camp by early afternoon, set up tents, fired an early dinner, and congratulated Mike's team as they came back from the summit. Things look really good for us tomorrow, so fingers crossed, we'll make our push in the morning.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team

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C’mon team! Can’t wait to read the post about the summit! Wishing you good weather and strength. Molta força!

Posted by: Anna P on 5/31/2022 at 5:43 am

Congratulations on getting to 17k! I’m so excited for your hopeful push tomorrow. We’re all pulling for you, sending you positive thoughts and intentions. Keep reaching towards your goals, be safe, be amazing!

Posted by: Patrick Schmitz on 5/30/2022 at 8:19 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team regroup and walk to the Edge of the World

May 28 10:29pm PT

It was a perfect day to rest and regroup from our foray yesterday. The sun was out, temps were warm, and everything was calm. We also got a forecast that looks really promising for the next several days. We took another trip to the edge of the world - last time heat induced clouds were rising up from the glaciers below and it felt like the edge of the world, past which there was nothing, just a white void. Today we could see who down the Kahiltna and get a sense for the sheer scale of it all.

We are headed towards bed pretty hopeful that we are waking to similar weather tomorrow and good conditions to move up.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team

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Cotopaxi Express: Whittaker & Team Take Acclimatization Hike in the Illinizas

Sunday, January 6, 2019 - 7:30 pm PT Another day, another volcano! We left the hustle and bustle of Quito this morning and eased into the beautiful, lush countryside of Ecuador. After a short drive to the base of Illinizas we parked at 12,800' and powered up to the hut at 15,100’. Beautiful weather on the ascent, not so much on the descent. Right as we reached the hut clouds began to swallow us up and we tucked inside for snacks and some hot tea. Shortly after, a cold rain gave us some extra motivation to get moving and it chased us downhill back to the trailhead. We wound our way back down the narrow (and bumpy!) cobblestone road along small family farms and pastures full of cows, llamas, horses and the occasional rogue pig. We threw it into park on the other side of the valley at Hacienda El Porvenir where we are tucked in for the night drying our gear in front of a crackling wood stove. Perfect. Hoping for clear skies in the morning and a front row sunrise view of Cotopaxi with coffee in hand. Buenas noches! RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews and Team
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Mt. Everest Expedition: Clear Skies Then More Snow

The day started out sparkling and blue... A welcome change from the weather of the past week, but by early afternoon it was back to overcast and snow flurries. Word was that those trying to travel between Camp One and Two were encountering waist deep snow and that as much as another meter had fallen on C1 since we left it two days ago. It hasn't been normal in recent years to get so much snow in April, but we choose to look at things optimistically, and we hope that some of the snow sticks up high to make travel a bit safer on the Lhotse Face and on summit day above the South Col. That is all a bit far off today though. We are still taking it easy and resting up for the next -all important- push up the mountain. (Any push up this mountain is all important to those of us doing the pushing) Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Dave and Seth
Greetings from Alaska. Enjoying the blogs. Reminds me of my E days 20 years ago to the day. Good luck and be safe.
Mark

Posted by: mark selland on 4/25/2013 at 10:05 pm

Best wishes on a safe climb.  You guys are awesome, BRAVE-to say the least. Blessings for a safe summit. 

ABQ Uptown #985 NM/AZ/CO

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 4/25/2013 at 1:30 pm


Mt. Rainier: A Late Start Leads to a Summit for the Four Day Climbs

The Four Day Climbs led by RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Josh McDowell got a late start out of Camp Muir this morning as the teams waited out some poor weather. The late start coupled with some patience paid off for the teams as they reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! Walter and Josh reported sunny skies and breezy conditions on the upper mountain. The teams are on their descent and will return to Ashford later today. Congratulations climbers!
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Congrats, Autumn, to you and your team!  Best wishes on your next adventure (whatever it may be).

Posted by: Mike Rathbun on 7/12/2019 at 7:32 am

Great job everyone!
Congrats AE from all the Turner Girls!

Posted by: JillT on 7/11/2019 at 8:20 pm


Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Sets up Camp 3, South Col Carry is Next

Today our Sherpa team secured prime real estate at Camp 3. The super Sherpa chopped away ice for a nice flat platform and supplied, but did not set up the tent. It is best to wait till the day the team is ready to use the tent; otherwise, the elements may damage or blow the unoccupied tent away. Sherpa plan to carry loads to the South Col tomorrow; these guys are tough. The climbing team is getting some exercise around Basecamp by day hiking, golfing, and playing horseshoes. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Good luck on your summit push.  Your Sherpas and your entire team are heroes, very brave.  Blessings for a safe summit. 

ABQ Uptown #985 NM/AZ/CO

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/7/2013 at 3:49 pm

Good luck to your team.  Hoping you can summit.

Posted by: Kevin on 5/7/2013 at 10:16 am


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team Break Down Camp and Head Downhill

Saturday June 11 - 11:59am PT

The last few days have been a blur.

Yesterday we had a hard but a rewarding summit day. The autobahn was mild, but the summit ridge greeted us with high winds, and blowing snow. Despite the mountains best efforts, our entire team made it to the summit and safely back to 17k camp for a late dinner.

Even though we all wanted to sleep in following the summit - we woke up around 9:30am, had a quick hot breakfast, and tore down camp to begin the long process of descending back to the airstrip.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000ft Camp

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 6:20 pm PT

The team enjoyed a beautiful day at 14,000' Camp today, resting from the days prior and preparing for the days ahead! We are planning to rest again tomorrow, after the last ten days the team deserves it!

RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team

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Looks as though you’ve all built quite a lovely camp there at 14K - hard to imagine a better view!  (Are those skis near that snow wall?  Ambitious!)

Enjoy the rest and thank you for all the updates - they really mean a lot.

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/29/2022 at 11:01 pm


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Enjoy Relaxed Morning, Arrive at Cotopaxi Hut

Today was a day we have all been hoping for.  No alarm clocks, no rush to load the small mountain of duffles in the bus and internet all morning.  

By the whipping crack of 1pm we had pacticed cravasse rescue, drank a gallon of coffee and packed our mountain bags.

A short bus ride up a road bumpy enough to make our seats feel like vibrating massage chairs, landed us at 15,200 feet.  A 40 minute cruise took us to the Jose Ribas refugio on the flanks of Cotopaxi.  We can definitely feel the 16,000 foot altitude. But after Cayambe we are all well prepared.   We even have the privilege of waking up "tomorrow" because our alarm clocks won't ring until one minute past midnight.   Wish us well as we are once again a full team with Maria's knee feeling much better. 

Climb on!!

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

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