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Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 10:05 pm PT
Today we mastered the classic mountaineering skills of reading, napping and making breakfast last three hours. All part of a well rounded rest day.
It was sunny, but windy for most of the day so we spent our day hanging out in the tents and letting our bodies recover from the toil of the last few days.
Tomorrow we plan to move up to 14,000' Camp and get in position for the upper mountain.
Posted by: Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Seth Burns, Nicole De Petris
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
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Thursday June 20th (day 10 on the mountain)
We woke up to a chilly morning in camp 3 at 14,200 feet elevation. My tent mate Dave and I were lingering in our warm sleeping bags, listening to the crunchy steps of our teammates who had gathered enough courage to step outside. Everything in the tent that could freeze had done so unless it was tucked inside our sleeping bags, including water bottles, sunscreen and even pee bottles…. The inside of the tent was crusted with a thin layer of frost that would rub off or drop down on us whenever we touched it.
I have to admit that the early mornings in the tent are my least favorite part of mountaineering. Just the thought of unzipping the comfortable sleeping bag and pulling on stiff, frozen pants, forcing my feet into rock hard, ice-cold mountaineering boots and crawling out of the tent into the outside winter land makes me shiver. Still, I know that only a few minutes later life is much better after taking care of the morning routine and sitting in the kitchen tent with a hot cup of coffee, courtesy of our guides. Today was an “active rest day” which mostly meant hanging around camp and doing some ascender training, but also entailed a back carry trip down the slope from our camp to retrieve the cache we left a few days ago at 13,500 feet elevation. By the time we left camp just before 10am the below zero morning had turned into a blisteringly sunny day, and coming up the hill back to camp with heavy backpacks we were sweating through our single base-layers. Otherwise, it was a pretty uneventful round trip if it wasn’t for the fact that I did a complete face plant going down the hill while fiddling with my phone and tripping over my crampons. What a rookie mistake…
Coming back to camp we were treated to an amazing brunch consisting of burritos hot from the camp stove served by our bad ass guides Seth and Nicole. They had been granted a day off from carrying loads thanks to their super human efforts the last couple of days, accompanying our team mates Tait and Sophia who decided to abort this climb, all the way from camp 2 to base camp and then back again (a 20 miles round trip with 5,000 feet elevation gain!), only to rejoin the rest of our team on the 3,000+ feet ascent with heavy packs & sleds to camp 3 the next day. Truly impressive!
Given that today was mostly a rest day I had an opportunity to reflect on the experience thus far. I’ve been on a number of guided climbs in different corners of the world over the years, including some that have been expedition style like this one. They’ve all been great experiences and my guides have generally been top notch. However, I do think there is an RMI Difference based on what I’ve seen so far. Not only has the guiding been outstanding thanks to our world class guides Dom, Seth and Nicole, but the overall logistics, route planning and camp facilities have been flawless. Climbing mountains is hard as it is, so having delicious cooked meals (not freeze dried), 3-person tents between 2 of us, and a few extra rest days in the itinerary has made this experience as enjoyable as possible and will hopefully allow us all the best odds possible to summit the mountain. A special shoutout to our lead guide Dom who is expertly masterminding the giant chess game that it is to climb Denali while at the same time fostering a genuinely positive and supportive team environment.
Just a quick note on the team before I wrap. We’re all from very different backgrounds as highlighted in Rossi’s blog a couple of days ago, and with a variety of mountaineering experience. However, 10 days into the trip I’m really impressed by how we have bonded into a cohesive team that helps and supports each other. We’re now all seasoned Denali mess tent small talk, being an introverted Swede, I do enjoy listening to it! �� fantastic experience so far! And a gentle request to the Gunnarsson family to leave some comments - we can’t have Dave get all the attention!
RMI Climber Mattias Gunnarsson
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 9, 2024
The genuine camaraderie and respect you have for each other as individuals and as a united, strong team is evident in these fantastic blogs. I am continually amazed and inspired by you all
Posted by: Kim C on 6/22/2024 at 4:48 am
Hey Thomas, Onward and upward to you and team. Keeping you in our prayers❣️
Posted by: Paul and Valorie on 6/21/2024 at 9:28 pm
Posted by: Tyler Reid
Categories: Chile Ski
9. Pisco Sours. The perfect cap on any ski day.
8. Araucarias (Monkey Puzzle Trees). Combined with the volcanic lunar landscapes, these add to the prehistoric nature of the subalpine landscapes, and you get the sensation you might run into dinosaurs at any moment.
7. Young Volcanoes. Villarica’s summit crater is a boiling cauldron. Llaima last erupted in…2009!
6. 4 Volcanoes in 10 Days. Many expeditions are lucky to climb one mountain in 10 days.
5. The Proximity. The relative spacing of these four mountains could not be more perfect. Less car time, more skiing.
4. Light Backpacks. Most international expeditions involve hauling heavy loads. Not really the case on this trip. Three out of four of these peaks we ski with day packs.
3. The Corn. There’s something about Southern Hemisphere corn that’s extra buttery (corn snow that is).
2. The Country. Chile is a land of otherworldly landscapes, interesting culture, and incredibly friendly people.
1. Aesthetic Lines. The ski descents themselves are even more impressive than the summits.
Find out more about skiing Chile’s Volcanoes this September on RMI’s Chile’s Volcanoes Ski Mountaineering Expedition…
Posted by: Mike King, Josh McDowell
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations to Caleb and the entire crew!
Posted by: Ann on 8/16/2019 at 6:09 am
Great job! We can’t even see the mountain today so glad you got up it! I am excited to see the pictures!
Posted by: Lena on 8/15/2019 at 11:59 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mark Tucker, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
On The Map
Here’s what Jeff Masters is saying about Mahasen: http://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/comment.html?entrynum=2404
He’s the guy that was ranting about evacuating New Orleans 4 days before Katrina hit. He knows hurricanes.
Posted by: Ann on 5/13/2013 at 1:05 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 7,200
On The Map
Sterling..Another try..go bro..we know you can do it!
XO..Nadine and Dan
Posted by: Nadine Douke on 12/13/2012 at 2:02 pm
Go Dr. James and Team!
Posted by: The Texadas on 12/7/2012 at 7:11 pm
Well done. You are one in a krillion!
Posted by: the swarm on 12/12/2011 at 3:46 am
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
On The Map
Good Luck boys!!! So wish I was there physically as its warmer with 3 in a tent but I am there in spirit!!
Posted by: Shoshana on 6/14/2012 at 6:49 pm
I’m so proud of you mom. Keep eating those sourpatch kids!
P.S I’m in computer class right now and Evelyn says hi!
Posted by: Sheena on 6/1/2012 at 11:39 am
We are watching updates Heidi tracking your progress one day at a time! Stay safe and sending love way up to your altitude!
Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/27/2021 at 7:52 am
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