Most Popular Entries
Posted by: Mike Walter, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Saturday June 11 - 11:59am PT
The last few days have been a blur.
Yesterday we had a hard but a rewarding summit day. The autobahn was mild, but the summit ridge greeted us with high winds, and blowing snow. Despite the mountains best efforts, our entire team made it to the summit and safely back to 17k camp for a late dinner.
Even though we all wanted to sleep in following the summit - we woke up around 9:30am, had a quick hot breakfast, and tore down camp to begin the long process of descending back to the airstrip.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
Sunday, June 20, 2021 - 8:23 pm PT
This afternoon around 2pm the team stood on top of Denali! After weeks of hard work we got the sweet reward of the top.
We were the first team to summit in at least four days, which made for a true Alaskan climbing experience. We broke trail for 7.5 hours to get to the top. Most of the permanent protection was buried, so we placed our own and put in the track to the top!
Starting early made it so we had the peak to ourselves and really got a true experience of a summit day on Denali!
Now we just have to descend from 17K Camp to the upper airstrip over the next couple days. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team
Congratulations to my my son, Alan Davis and to the rest of the team on your summit! Dad couldn’t be more proud of you! A wonderful Father’s Day gift to have given me! Love you and safe travels to you and the team on your descent!
Posted by: Patrick Davis on 6/21/2021 at 1:03 pm
Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team, who summited Denali yesterday. Matt, you worked so hard training. In fact for this climb you started in 2020 only to have that trip canceled. Buddie, our sheltie, enjoyed his mountain climbing in Phoenix on your easy days of training. So glad your guides let you make a second attempt for the summit. And thank the guides for great up dates. Safe travel to the 6 of you down the mountain. Can’t wait to hear the stories.
Posted by: Mary and George Howell on 6/21/2021 at 12:07 pm
We will check in tomorrow from the comfort of Base Camp Plaza Argentina.
Thanks to everybody out there for following our progress on the mountain and for sending all those kind messages.
Cheers,
Gabi and the RMI Aconcagua Expedition.
Congratulations on making the summit dad!! The weather looked so amazing over there, can’t wait to see you when you get home!!
Love, Bart
Posted by: Bart Eland on 1/23/2011 at 4:50 pm
congratulations Sid ! We have all been tracking your progress and are excited for you that you all reached the summit ! Quite an impressive mountain I’m sure ! Great job ! The Fitzy cheering squad !
Posted by: Carol Eland on 1/23/2011 at 4:41 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Tatum Whatford, Seth Burns
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
Saturday, July 2, 2022 - 8:56 pm PT
It was a rest day, although slightly less restful for taking place at 17,200'. Everything is a little harder up here. We were lucky to have a nice sunny day (again) which made it easier to relax. It was breezy from time to time, which was forecast. We’re hoping the winds quiet down, in keeping with those forecasts, for our summit day tomorrow. We ate and drank water and stared out at the amazing views. We made last minute adjustments to our packs and the gear we’ll rely on tomorrow. We talked strategy. We looked up at the “autobahn” -the route from 17,000' to Denali Pass and tried to judge its difficulty. After weeks of hard work to get in position, we are ready.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Tatum Whatford, Seth Burns
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Saturday, June 25, 2022 - 10:04 pm PT
We did another 5 AM wake up. It was cool in the morning shadows, but not uncomfortably so. Breakfast fortified us for a 7 AM departure up the steep Motorcycle Hill. To finally be in crampons rather than snowshoes felt great. Our first rest break -midway up Squirrel Hill- gave us brand new views of the Peters Glacier and Denali’s Northwest Buttress, in addition to ever closer views of the formidable granite forming the end of the West Buttress. We finished off Squirrel and came onto the “Polo Field” below the end of the Buttress. One more pull got us to the saddle below Windy Corner where we took a break before tackling the corner itself. The Corner is always exciting, traversing steep slopes with huge chunks of granite just above us and crevasses just below… all while trying not to stare too long at the Kahiltna Glacier far below, or at Mount Hunter and Mount Foraker in all their glory. Finishing the Corner leaves one looking straight at Denali’s South Peak for the first time. We cached food and fuel just beyond the corner, spending about 50 minutes there at 13,500 ft before starting down. We actually walked down into a layer of wildfire smoke that had moved in. Luckily the smoke didn’t stick around for too long. We were back at camp at 1:30 PM and diving into the tents shortly afterward to get out of the intense high altitude sun.
It was a good day of climbing and we’ve had a few now… so tomorrow looks good for a rest day to solidify our acclimatization before moving up.
Best Regards,
What an adventure!!! Go, team, go! Cheering each and every one of you on, especially Jim! Such an amazing experience!
Posted by: Deborah Karmozyn on 6/26/2022 at 1:26 pm
Well, some snoring happened last night. Not light cute, cuddly snoring but the real deal. It was coming directly from the top bunk next to mine so I now have a nice visual of what a grown man looks like when running a chainsaw with his throat. Add to that the fun fuzzy feelings of our first night at real altitude and I think it is safe to say most of the team did not experience their best night.
By 6 am most of us were beginning to put motion to our already awake bodies which is never easy at this height. With a few throbbing headaches everyone was in some way experiencing a mild hangover. This is not out of the ordinary.
After a beautiful hike around the hut which was blessed with clear and stunning views of our summit, Antisana and Cotopaxi, the aftermath of snoring and altitude began to fade. It is common for this mountain to sock in and get rainy by 1 pm so we all motivated in good style preparing for training session on the glacier 1,200 feet above the hut. By 8:15 we were on the move enjoying beautiful weather and vistas. One hour later we were putting on harnesses, crampons and helmets at 16,000 feet.
It is clear everyone on this team has climbed in the past because going through self arrest, rope travel and cramponing on steep ice was akin to getting back on the bike. Hannah, Jaime and I just gave a little shove and off they went, making it all look easy.
Like clockwork the rain came in at 12:30 and we descended back to the rough accommodations of soup, cheese and crackers and hot tea. I can certainly think of worse places to be. After snacks we rested for a couple hours and then had dinner at 5 pm.
As I finish this entry, the moon has begun shining through our window, the team is tucked away in bed and the Super Bowl just kicked off. Our alarms go off at 11 pm tonight giving us a midnight departure on our first big mountain summit attempt. Cayambe is 5 feet short of 19,000 feet so we have a big day ahead of us.
We will give the report tomorrow after the climb. Enjoy super bowl Sunday!
Posted by: Brent Okita, Tyler Reid
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: Summit
Sally…congratulations on an incredible achievement! We love you! (Still waiting for the Skype call from the summit…next time, right? Haha!)
Posted by: The Schroeders on 6/24/2012 at 7:50 am
Sally, you made it! God has blessed you so much, He had to bless you this time too. You and your team are an inspiration to us all. Love, your Brother Dan
Posted by: Dan on 6/23/2012 at 12:32 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman, Brent Okita
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,300'
Congratulations Chad on your summit. I am so proud of you. Continue to follow your dreams. Thanks to the whole team for such a great adventure.
Posted by: Warren Burgert on 5/17/2013 at 12:15 pm
Jeff, Scott, Laura, and Craig. Bravo! on your great adventure. Mom and I are in England tracking and admiring your achievement. Best wishes and God’s speed and safekeeping as you march to summit!!
Love,
Mom and Dad
Posted by: George and Lucy Galllimore on 5/14/2013 at 2:03 pm
On The Map
Elizabeth and team, so happy to hear all is well and you are getting higher and higher.. Stay focused, eat lots, rest and enjoy the beauty and each other.
Miss you and our emails. Emily’s concert was fantastic. Love you tons. Mom
Posted by: Maureen Bartron on 5/23/2012 at 8:22 am
Hi dad, it’s the last day of school. We bought an iPad and downloaded lots of games. We are having an end of the year party on Thursday, right after the last day of school. I love you and miss you. Stay safe.
-Laura
Posted by: Laura on 5/23/2012 at 7:22 am
Kelley, We have never known anyone to make this climb—you are amazing! We can’t wait to see your pictures! Love, Sue and Don
Posted by: Don and Sue Pieper on 7/24/2012 at 10:10 am
way to go Kelley and the rest of the team! I cannot wait to hear all about it! Barbie
Posted by: Barbie Smith on 7/23/2012 at 9:06 am
View All Comments