Hi from Huaraz!
The team united in the morning at our Lima Hotel, and shortly after, we jumped on our private bus, en route to Huaraz. From hours along the Pacific Coast, to the extensive land lots covered on drying chili peppers and corn, being baked by the sun, a visually stimulating drive greeted us as we started to go up the Conococha Pass. With 1 1/2 hours left of our bus drive, we got a first glimpse of the Cordillera Blanca, with Huascarán reigning amongst the clouds, and the Pastoruri Massif a mere stone throw from our "bladder emptying" stop in the 14K ft vicinity, right at dusk (yep, it's winter here, and it gets dark early).
We met Peter, our local outfitter and third guide completing the guide team. Dinner and bed time. All is great so far!!!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Hello, this is the Peru Seminar and Elías and Robby and Peter with the team at High Camp on Copa. We are currently at 5,200 meters. The crew climbed really well this morning. It took us slightly less than 4 hours to move from Base Camp to here, and we are currently settled in, cooking dinner, replenishing water, and getting ready for what's ahead tonight: the biggest of our objectives, Copa, at 6,200 meters. We'll be checking in tomorrow, hopefully from the summit, and stay tuned for more. That's it for now. Everybody's doing really well, and we wish everything is good at home. Bye!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from High Camp on Copa, Peru.
RMI Guides Brent Okita & Andy Bond radioed from Columbia Crest this morning with the Four Day Summit Climb teams July 5 - 8. Brent reported a fantastic day with very little wind and great route conditions. Both Summit Climb teams saw 100% of their team members standing on the summit today!
The teams will return to Camp Muir for a quick break to repack before continuing down to Paradise.
Congratulations to all Summit Climb team members!
Greetings from Alpamayo BC!
We initiated our descent this morning from high camp and retraced our steps back out of the kingdom of the ice and into the warm confines of base camp. We are excited to savor lower altitude air and the amazing food of our cook. Our plan is to head out tomorrow and get into town in the evening. We are all super proud of our climb, yet looking forward to telling our accounts in person to our loved ones, so stay tuned for our arrival tomorrow into town!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Hey, everybody. This is Casey Grom checking in from the Kilimanjaro climb. I wanted to let you know that everything's going great. Today we left behind the Arumeru Lodge and made a few hour drive to the base of a Kilimanjaro. We drove up the Machame Valley, which is actually lined with quite a few banana plantations. A number of porters are making their way to the gate entrance to find some work. Once we got to the gate, we got organized, and then got the green light from the park service, we slowly started making our way up hill. The team did great today. We climbed for about six hours up through this incredible lower slopes of Kilimanjaro. It was a nice break from the sun to be tucked into the trees. And again the team did great. We pulled into camp about 6 o'clock or so today and everyone just finished dinner. Everyone's relaxing right now and getting ready for a little bit of sleep. Everybody's in good spirits. We will check in again tomorrow and hopefully be able to get a picture or two out in the next day or so based on our cellphone service up here. Thanks for following.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
RMI Guide Casey Grom calls in from Machame Camp, Africa.
Today we left the comforts of Base Camp and moved to Camp One! Our whole team did great on the way up, and we are excited to be making upward progress on the mountain.
Our journey today was mostly on rocky trails that wove through moraine material, and finished with walking up a big snowy hill the last hour before camp. The view from here is stunning. We can't see the summit, but we can see shape-shifting clouds rip over it. Looking downhill we can see the warm multi-colored mountains that make the far side of the Vacas Valley. Dinner tonight was not three courses, and it's cold and windy and we no longer have well maintained outhouses... And this is exactly what we came here to do! Everyone is in high spirits.
And now the game of chess begins. We're expecting strong winds over night and tomorrow, but we'll see what happens. Wind permitting, our plan for tomorrow is to walk to at least 17,000 feet for acclimatization. Meanwhile, a couple of us guides will move some group food as close to camp two as we can get to set the group up for success if we end up having to make a quick move to camp two in the coming days.
As the moon wanes the stars are becoming increasingly more spectacular through this dry and thin air. If it wasn't so cold it would be easy to stay mesmerized all night! Wish us mellow winds and dissipating headaches...
RMI Guide Steve Gately and Team
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Team Reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons route early this morning. RMI Guide Zeb Blais reported that the team had a great climb with absolutely beautiful weather. The team is back at Camp Schumann and will spend the evening finishing up their training. They return to Rainier Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations to the Emmons Team!
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz, led by Mike Haugen, spent the week training as they built up to their summit push. With an alpine start from their high camp on the Kautz Glacier, the team began their quest. They accomplished their summit goal just after 7:00 a.m. this morning and then began their descent via the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Mike reported moderate winds and snow. The team will make their way back to Ashford later today.
The Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs, led by Mike Walter and Walter Hailes, turned around at 12,000 feet due to high winds, low visibility, and snow. The teams began their descent from Camp Muir at 8:45 a.m. We look forward to greeting them in Ashford this afternoon.
Great job team! I’m sorry the weather didn’t work out in your favor. Nonetheless, I’m proud of you all (especially The Amazing Brian Baron and The Outstanding Parker Freedman
June 7, 2016 - 7:24 pm PT
The team continues to do well here at Denali's 11K Camp. We took an early jaunt down to our cache to get reunited with our extra snacks. Our trail breaking yesterday served us well and we cruised out and back with very good style. Once back, we took an "active rest day," building walls to fortify camp and reviewing some mountaineering techniques. If the weather holds, we will try to cache higher on the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Glad to hear you are progressing up the mountain safely! I’m also glad you can hear about Swiftey’s bladder issues from high altitudes! Be safe, we’re excited for you!
Posted by: Isty's walking partner on 6/8/2016 at 10:22 pm
Hi, Jason! Love the photos that are posted. Keep on climbing; stay warm and safe. So glad you are living your dream.
Loved the audio message from Elias. Wish all a productive night’s rest before attempting your highest and final pinnacle!
Posted by: Laura Voisinet on 7/9/2015 at 8:40 am
View All Comments