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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Descend to 14K Camp

June 16, 2017 11:35 pm PST Well everyone, we hung on as long as we could at 17 Camp. We woke to high winds and blowing snow and waited patiently for them to dissipate. They did not. After dragging our feet in vain, still hoping for some workable weather, we finally began our descent back to 14 Camp. Arriving around dinner time, the team wolfed down what could (hopefully!) be our last Mac and Cheese meal for a while and racked out for what will be a few short hours before we head downhill for this season. While we did not stand on top of Denali this year, we are lucky to have tried and happy to be heading home none the worse for wear. It has been a real treat to all climb together and we will be checking in from further down this beautiful mountain. Wish us good luck and fair winds on the last legs of our adventure, it ain't over yet... RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Waiting to hear you all arrived safely at base camp and are flying back to hot showers and a good meal! Praying for you Steve!
Mike and Pat

Posted by: Mike and Pat Lurakis on 6/19/2017 at 9:48 pm

Steve. A disappointment for sure. What do they say about mountains - getting to the top is optional but getting down is mandatory. Denali denied you the top so be safe getting back down. Safe travels .

Posted by: Keith h on 6/19/2017 at 9:15 am


Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team move gear higher on the Mountain

Hello from 3800 Assault Camp (as our Russian friends call it). Since we were reunited with all of our gear yesterday and had some time to contemplate the piles, today was the perfect day to once again bump up a portion of that gear to our next camp at Lenz Rocks (about 15k). We woke to brilliant azure skies and cooler temps: perfect climbing weather. By 9 am we were donning harnesses and crampons, and clipping in to the climbing rope for the first time of the trip. The terrain below Lenz was our first snow climbing of the trip, and the conditions were perfect for cramponing. The group moved very well through the first stretch, but it began to feel like we were racing the weather a bit. First, a few errant clouds drifted across our climbing route on a light breeze, temporarily reducing our visibility. Then, just as we neared our destination, there was a distant rumble of thunder. At Lenz we didn't rush with our cache, using the time at a new altitude to help our acclimatization, but we didn't linger either. With our gear stored, we headed down into very low visibility and a couple of more distant rumbles. We moved very well downhill with light packs and some motivation, ultimately beating the weather to camp. Not long after we were tucked into tents snacking, the first flash of lightning alerted us that the storm had arrived. We sat, counting the seconds between flashes and cracks, listening to the tattoo of hail and graupel on the tent walls. By dinner time things had calmed down, and we ate dessert while watching spectacular colors play on the clouds as the sun set. We are hoping that our luck with the weather continues, and that tomorrow will give us the opportunity to move camp once again. We'll be in touch tomorrow. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer, Jeff Martin, and Crew
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Trevor I see that you are back in your element…...snow and ice…...what Canucks are raised on. Keep climbing baby.

Posted by: LD Carani on 8/9/2014 at 4:39 pm


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Spend Day in Ngorongoro Crater

We spent our day in a collapsed volcano.  Ngorongoro Crater didn’t disappoint.  It was a clear morning at our hotel but it was cold and there was still a little cloud hanging around the rim of the caldera (which is at around 10,000 ft).  We did an hour of the usual rough roads to get to the descent road into the crater.  Then we saw two of the “Big Five” species before we’d even made it to the floor of the crater.  There was a big bull elephant with enormous tusks and not too far away there was a sleeping male lion.  Before long we were seeing thousands of zebra, wildebeest, gazelles, Cape buffalo and warthogs.  There were tons of hippos.  The highlights were reckoned to be the Caracal we spied (a medium sized cat with big pointy ears… rarely seen in Ngorongoro) and the pack of hyenas ripping up a Cape Buffalo carcass.  After another great picnic lunch in the field, we went back up to the crater rim to visit a Maasai village.  We watched (and joined in) traditional dances.  We saw the men make fire and throw spears, then we got a tour of the homes within a protective brush enclosure. 

Then we had another 90 minutes of bouncing over dirt roads before we got back to the ultra comfortable Plantation Lodge for the evening. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

That sounds like an amazing day! Thank you for posting pics, too.

Posted by: Diana Lowe on 8/24/2022 at 3:38 pm


Mexico Volcanoes: Team Summits Ixta!

Patience was the name of the game for Ixta. The team awoke multiple times during the night to find various conditions. First snow, then total whiteout, then a menacing cloud cap over the upper mountain. Knowing the patterns of the local mountains we decided to take the cloud cap as our opportunity to climb and we’re rewarded. As we climbed, the cloud dissipated, and team was able to keep ascending under the full moon and cool temps. We reached the summit at 7:50 AM with views of the surrounding peaks and the route we had just ascended. No time to waste though, it was time to descend. We knew of the incoming weather and descended without incident to the parking lot.

Off to Puebla we went to enjoy our much-deserved showers, tacos, and real beds. Great effort by all the team members and we look forward to exploring Puebla tomorrow.

RMI Guides Dominic, Abby and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulation on the summit, Abby you are a badass. Keep up the good work!

Posted by: Uncle Chewy on 2/17/2022 at 7:32 pm

Congrats team!  So psyched for you guys and gals, especially my Z! Enjoy your rest, next stop - summit #2!

Posted by: Jessica Purcell on 2/17/2022 at 1:12 pm


Kahiltna Seminar: Gorum &  Team Return to Talkeetna, Conclude Seminar

Monday, May 31, 2021 - 11:17 am PT

I’m writing this from the Swiss Alaska Inn in Talkeetna. We flew out from Kahiltna Basecamp yesterday evening, after breaking down our camp and breaking trail back to the airstrip. Now we’re eating pancakes and eggs in the big city, re-adjusting to indoors life. We’ve got a few things to do around town before we catch our afternoon shuttle to Anchorage. It was a great trip all around. Everyone is a little sunburned, but otherwise no worse for the wear. Thanks for following along, and thanks to all the climbers who made this trip a memorable one. 

RMI Guide JM Gorum

Leave a Comment For the Team

Chile Ski: Reid & Team Find Perfect Conditions and Enjoyable Skiing on Sierra Nevada

Yesterday we raced to set up our tents under the Araucaria trees as a fast moving thunderstorm approached. This morning we awoke in a thick snowy cloud. After an hour of skinning up an ever narrowing ridge, we rose above into glowing morning light and blue skies. Last time we came to ski Sierra Nevada was five years ago and we got 95% of the way there, but ran out of time. Today, snow conditions were perfect for skinning all the way to the summit. On top we had impressive views of our neighbors, Lonquimay and Llaima. And crystal clear radio communication with Sergio at his lodge way down in the valley. Three hours later, after a highly enjoyable skiing experience, he picked us up in his Land Rover (it’s a gnarly road) with cold cervezas. Some photos... RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Amazing photos! Good going you guys. Enjoy the cervesas, salud, y saludos a Sergio!

Posted by: Wolf Riehle on 10/4/2019 at 9:35 pm


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Grab Cache, Fully Move in to 11,000’

Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:24 pm PT

We're finally fully moved into 11,000' Camp. After a four hour lap to pick up our cache at 9,400 we have all our food and fuel with us. To celebrate to had pudding for dessert after a tasty meal of rice and curry. The weather looks good for tomorrow and we are hoping to carry some gear up to Windy Corner.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Please tell Norm that everything is ok at home and I am well. Thanks! Valerie

Posted by: Valerie Cognetto on 5/31/2021 at 11:14 am

We kidnapped your wife for the weekend, it will cost you a weekend of camping out at a country music festival, lol.  Seriously- we are so very proud and astounded by your accomplishment. Norm- you are amazing and we wish you a safe return home to all who love you. xo

Posted by: Allison and Jimmy on 5/30/2021 at 7:06 am


Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Check in from Huayna Potosi

May 29, 2017 Hello, this is Eric Frank calling from the Casa De Guilles here on Huayna Potosi in Bolivia. The last couple days have been pretty interesting, yesterday a fair amount of snow fell on Huayna Potosi and we weren't really sure what we would find this morning. When we woke up the weather was good and we were able to climb up to the high Refugio in fairly comfortable conditions. Once again things changed, and it started dumping a bunch of snow so we spent most of the afternoon watching the flakes fall and clearing off the roof of our little shelter. We are just getting tucked into bed now, hopefully things will turn around in the morning. There's a fair amount of snow on route so wish us luck, we're going to make conservative decisions and see how far we can go. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in from High Camp on Huayna Potosi, Bolivia

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Mattie-
We think about you all day long, hope that the weather is in your favor, and that RMI and the guides do their thing and help you all to achieve your goal…a summit!!!  Hang in there, sweetheart!  We look forward to hearing all about your experiences through the blogs.  Love you! 
Mama, Jesse, Bud, Taira and Adryan

Posted by: Bird on 5/30/2017 at 5:20 pm

Justin,
Hope things are going well for you and the team.  Just found the blog and will follow the rest of your trip.  Enjoy the view.  Dad

Posted by: David Probst on 5/30/2017 at 11:40 am


Mt. Rainier: July 16th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Kel Rossiter and Walter Hailes reached the Mt. Rainier summit this morning in cold temperatures and windy conditions. With a cloud layer settled in at Camp Muir, the team enjoyed clear skies on the summit. Congratulations to today's summiteers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks, Kell and the rest of the RMI guides, for getting my boy up and back safely.

Posted by: Bryn on 7/17/2012 at 8:07 am

Congratulations to Steve, Brad and your fellow climbers. I can’t wait to hear the details at our next TEC meeting.

Posted by: Nancy Johnshoy on 7/17/2012 at 7:08 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry to 16,600’

Wednesday, June 29, 2022 - 10:32 pm PT

This was a big and beautiful day on Denali.  Sunny from start to finish with barely a puff of wind all day.  So we made good use of it.  We were up at 7 and out of camp by 8:50 in the morning shadows.  We powered on up the hills just out of camp that steepened to headwalls a few hours along.  The team did great in managing the fixed ropes on the steep ice leading to the crest of the West Buttress. We were at the top of the ropes by 12:15 PM where we took a short break looking out over about half the planet.  We proceeded up the ridge for some interesting climbing, putting our hands on clean granite while our crampons worked up firm snow.  At 16,600 ft -the base of “Washburn’s Thumb” we declared victory and dug a cache for the supplies we’d carried.  We made our way back down, slowly and carefully, reaching camp at 14,000' about 7 and a half hours after we’d departed.  Just in time for a pre-dinner nap.  The team was excited to hear of Andy Bond’s team tagging the top in perfect conditions today.  We look forward to seeing them back down at 14,000' tomorrow.  We’ll be resting and getting ready to move up to 17,000'  when we get the opportunity. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go team!
Diana and Tom

Posted by: Diana Weiss on 6/30/2022 at 9:27 am

Amazing progress everyone!

You are all AMAZING!

Posted by: Margaret Nolan on 6/30/2022 at 9:07 am

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