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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Back Carry and Train

What does normal feel like at 14,200'? Certainly not what it feels like at home. At least not at first. The headaches and weariness that some felt last night evaporated by morning and it was nice to see smiles on everyone's faces at breakfast. Yet still, we are not fully adjusted to the elevation. This becomes obvious when some normally easy things like shoveling snow or even walking to the 'bathroom' cause our respirations and pulse to surge a bit. But, it's getting better. Today we retrieved our cache from 13,500' and did some training in preparation for the most challenging climbing yet. Becoming comfortable with the mechanical ascenders that we will use for protection while ascending the steeps of the fixed ropes leading to the West Buttress is critical for our safe and efficient ascent. Next, being proficient in dealing with running belays used for protection on our climb up the exposed and most beautiful ridge of the Buttress is essential. And I'm happy to say that everyone is well prepared for tomorrows climbing. Good news from our friends, RMI 2, led by Billy Nugent, who are now at 17,200' camp, is that there are plenty of supplies at camp there, so our packs will be fairly light on our first foray up to 16,000' or 17,000'. Our climbing tomorrow serves two purposes. We do need to get food and fuel up to our next camp. But more importantly, tomorrow will serve to heighten our acclimatization greatly, allowing our bodies to feel even more normal up here. And the more 'normal' we start feeling here at 14,200', the more prepared we will be for our eventual move to high camp at 17,200'. But that's jumping ahead a little. For now we'll just concentrate on putting one foot in front of the other for a few hours and see if we can't get a cache in somewhere above us. Goodnight from 14,200' camp where our expected low temp tonight will hover around 0 degrees. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Leon Davis, and Lindsay Mann

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good Luck boys!!! So wish I was there physically as its warmer with 3 in a tent but I am there in spirit!!

Posted by: Shoshana on 6/14/2012 at 6:49 pm

I’m so proud of you mom. Keep eating those sourpatch kids!

P.S I’m in computer class right now and Evelyn says hi!

Posted by: Sheena on 6/1/2012 at 11:39 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to 14,000ft Camp

Monday, July 4, 2022 - 9:46 pm PT

We woke to a calm but cloudy morning at 17,200'.  There was light snow falling -some of the first snowflakes we’ve had on this trip.  It wasn’t too hard to be out in it for packing though.  We got it all done and got walking at noon.  Many careful steps were taken along the crest of the West Buttress in the clouds.  We got a little surprise when we started down the fixed lines at 16,200. There was an actual squall with snow blowing in our faces as we delicately stepped down and across crevasses.  Things eased as we got to 14,000' at 3 PM and re-established camp.  We then had a quiet afternoon and evening of resting, relaxing and eating, with everybody making mention of how much easier life at 14,000' was compared to 17,000'. 

Tomorrow we’ll hope the clouds go elsewhere as we get down to 11,000' and get set for the big walk out the lower glacier. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Ecuador Seminar: Team Climbs Fuya Fuya

Saturday, February 12, 2022 4:09 AM PST

Hola Amigos,

We woke with an excitement in the air, today we were leaving the city. After a few nights in Quito it was time for us to head north to our next destination. Bellies full of continental breakfast, we gathered all of our belongings, squeezed into the tiny elevators and stacked our duffels in the lobby to await our driver, Hector. 

A two-hour drive through the countryside was a welcome rest from yesterday’s hike. The van winded up cobblestone streets until the road was covered with water from the overflowing lake. We had made it to our activity for the day. It was time to stretch our legs up Fuya Fuya and get our heart rates up. Our bodies are working hard to adjust to the altitudes and be ready for the three volcanos awaiting us. Beautiful views, pretty flora, and mysterious clouds provided great backdrops. 

Slippery grass and muddy steps led us to the top where we were greeted by a large group of Deutsch high schoolers. After snatching our summit photo, we made our way back down to the van, some with muddier butts than others. A few team members took the opportunity to take a cold dip in the lake because when at Fuya Fuya why not. Bellies growling, we made it back to town for some pizza before we loaded back in the van, up more steep cobblestone streets to our hacienda. 

The hacienda is beautiful with a peaceful presence overlooking the town below. The team enjoyed some downtime before rallying together for some learning. Tonight’s entertainment before dinner was learning about knots and hitches, a building block for when we learn about crevasse rescue. A delicious dinner wrapped up the day before we all went back to our rooms to pack for tomorrow. Tomorrow we head to our first snow covered volcano.

With nerves and excitement surrounding us, we enjoy one final night with Wi-Fi before heading into the mountains.

Buenas noches,

RMI Guides Adam, Hannah, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Sending best wishes for perfect weather Hannah , Adam and team!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/12/2022 at 2:03 pm


Mt. Rainier: Grom, Wilkinson & Teams Reach Summit!

Congratulations to the Four Day Climb July 22 - 25 on reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier today!  Clear skies accompanied these teams led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Devin Wilkinson, to the summit early this morning.  After enjoying some time on top they begain their descent from the crater rim aroun 6:15 am.  These climbers will continue their descent to Paradise today and conclude their adventure with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.

Nice work team!

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We fairly flew up the mountain, thanks to expert leadership by our guides.  We topped out on the rim of the summit crater in darkness, crossed it in first light, and arrived at the Columbia Crest into the new day.  Was the sensation delight, madness, glee, relief, or some combination, to watch our great ball of fire emerge out of the noblest peak in the ring of fire?  Rainier’s perfect trapezoid shadow formed in the morning haze to the west, just north of a nearly perfect lunar orb, while summiteers snapped selfies. Casey had brought a new register book, which we had the honor to be among the first to sign (the full one he brought down to return to the NPS rangers).  At “Register Rock” we huddled to inscribe our names, though really it was the mountain inscribing itself on us!

Posted by: Lisa Fernandez on 7/26/2021 at 9:37 pm

Congratulations! I cannot wait to hear about the awesome effort and adventure.

Posted by: Joy Moretti on 7/25/2021 at 8:46 am


Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Trekking to Pheriche

Leaving Deboche this morning we walked through the last of the rhododendron and pine trees of the Khumbu, climbing higher into the valley where only small shrubs and juniper grow. We crossed back over the Dudh Kosi river on a narrow bridge and walked past rows upon rows of Mani stones and chortens, eventually reaching the small village of Pangboche. There, we paid a visit to Lama Geshe, the renown spiritual leader. Chanting in his native tongue of Tibetan, he blessed us on our journey into the mountains, writing a letter to Chomolungma, the goddess of Everest, requesting safe passage for us. Finally, laughing a deep soulful laugh each time he pronounced our anglophone names, he strung a small red string and then kata scarf around our necks, before wishing us good luck. The day remained clear and we had wonderful views of Ama Dablam soaring above us as left Pangboche, climbing further up the valley towards the impressive south face of Lhotse. Eventually, we reached a split in the valley, where the rivers diverge, one coming from Island Peak and the other from Everest's Khumbu Glacier. Following the Dudh Kosi towards Everest, we climbed up and over a shallow pass on the trail before dropping into the village of Pheriche. There Ang Nuru, a vibrant and energetic sherpa happily welcomed us into his teahouse, making us comfortable in the wonderfully decorated dining room. In the afternoon we strolled over the the Himalayan Rescue Association's Pheriche Clinic and listened to a discussion on altitude by the western doctors here. Tim bravely volunteered to climb into the Gamow Bag, a portable hyperbaric chamber, where the staff of the HRA pumped it up and brought Tim down to an elevation of less than 9,000' below Lukla where we started the trek. It was a quick ascent back to 14,000' when he emerged! The team is doing very well and excited to be here. Tomorrow we are going for a day hike above Pheriche and then returning to the teahouse to celebrate Mark's birthday. We are sending our best to everyone at home. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck McGahan’s, and have a fun, safe climb.  My best to Bill, and good luck on the projects Sara

Dan Catan and family

Posted by: Dan Catan on 4/2/2011 at 9:14 am

HAPPY 50th BIRTHDAY DAD! I hope y’all are having a gorgeous day on the mountain. I’m so proud of you! Love, Chelsea.

Posted by: Chelsea Miller on 3/31/2011 at 12:02 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb on the Summit!

The July 8th Four Day Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team climbed above the heavy marine layer to enjoy clear skies and goregous views fromt the top. RMI Guide JM Gorum checked in by Radio, and reported light winds, clear skies, and a great route for climbing.

The team is on the descent and will be back to Camp Muir later this morning.

Congratulations to today’s team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job!! A year extra of conditioning due to the pandemic and original date of hike cancellation was not part of the original plan.
Your persistence and dedication to each other is a terrific testimony to your brotherhood. As a father of two on the climb I couldn’t be more proud.  Congratulations to the entire team-mission accomplished!!

Posted by: Peter Allen on 7/9/2021 at 1:25 pm

You guys are awesome!  I can’t wait to hear all about this amazing experience from my husband and brother-in-law who are on this hike!  Congrats to the team for this accomplishment!

Posted by: Kristen Allen on 7/8/2021 at 10:37 am


Mt. Rainier: Climber’s Story

RMI Climber Chuck Knauff climbed Mt. Rainier on a 5 Day Summit Climb this August and with RMI Guides Leon Davis, Eric Frank, and Dave Walter. Chuck recently told the story of his climb in the newspaper the Sun Gazette. AN INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE City man climbs Mount Rainier Sun Gazette October 23, 2011 By Julie Reppert "It's one of those things that, it bit me and now I'm pretty well hooked on it," Charles "Chuck" Knauff said of his climb to the top of Mount Rainier in Ashford, Wash. Knauff, 48, a Williamsport resident and project manager for a construction management firm based out of Harrisburg, completed the climb alongside six others in August. He spent five days at Mount Rainier, training and climbing, with the ascent to the summit and back down to the base camp taking just under four hours. "When you're standing there looking at it (the mountain), it looks fake," Knauff said. "You never get tired of looking at it." Two years ago, Knauff came across a documentary on ESPN depicting the mountaineering experiences of NFL Commissioner Roger Goodell and other NFL dignitaries, who climbed Mount Rainier as a fundraiser to benefit charities. Their challenges sparked his interest in making the climb himself. Read More...
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Kilimanjaro: Okita and Team Scale the Barranco Wall

What a day!  At 13,070' it was still rather chilly in the shade as we began our climb of the Barranco Wall. Looking ahead the route was already busy with climbers and porters negotiating the steep terrain. Behind us camp was finally lit up with the early morning sun, looking warm and inviting. But our attention was focused on the steady footwork that would take us safely up this cool wall. 

Much of the climb we snaked through weaknesses in the rock that allowed us to walk upright on the well-trodden path. The fun came dealing with those places that demanded more precise footwork and the use of handholds on the rock. At a couple of places, we'd 'spot' these moves to maximize safety, but the team moved like the savvy climbers they are, or have become. After one and a half hours we were rewarded with a huge flat area at the top of the Wall where we refueled. The scenery here opened up dramatically to the steep cliffs and glaciers leading to the summit. Our route, thankfully, skirts these precipitous faces, traversing east to Karanga Camp, and eventually the route to the summit. 

Getting to Karanga demanded we climb up and down through a couple of valleys, but the views and scenery were so nice that nobody complained of the need to reascend precious altitude gained earlier...

It was nice getting into camp by 1:00 to enjoy the warm, beautiful weather up here. Tosha had an incredible paella whipped up for lunch after we had the chance to settle into our tents and wash up after the dusty trail.

How spoiled we are!

Tomorrow: High Camp - Barafu.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

George, I pray for your safety and that of the team. I envy the view you are rewarded with for your efforts of climbing!!!

Posted by: Michael Belt on 7/22/2022 at 7:55 pm

Glen and Thomas…We are mentally negotiating these paths with you and can feel the excitement building as you get closer to the goal.  Now to rest up for Saturday’s trek to high camp. Amazing stuff!  Thanks Brent for these updates

Posted by: Ginee Philippy on 7/22/2022 at 10:48 am


Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Tour Isla del Sol

This morning started with a pounding rain through the night that magically let off just as the sun rose across Lake Titicaca. Once the sun peaked out, everything quickly dried up and we had perfect weather for a visit to the Isla del Sol. A beautiful boat ride along the banks of Copacabana and Lake Titicaca took us to the island of the sun; the famous home of the fountain of the youth. This mountainous island is steeped in ancient history dating back long before the Incas unified the Andean Plateau. We found ourselves walking in the same steps and drinking from the same spring as generations of pilgrims before us. I must say the fountain gave the group a special spring in our step as we climbed to the top of the island and took in the gorgeous surroundings of Peru, Bolivia and the massive lake between them. After that, all that was left was to descend to the shore for a lunch of delicious Andean food overlooking the water. We returned back to Copacabana well fed, a little better educated about the history of this amazing area, and for some maybe just a touch younger! RMI Guide Caleb Ladue
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Hey Eric-
I’m wondering if you have pictures of all the climbers on the summit of the third mountain?  It would be great to see them!  Thank you! 

J

Posted by: Gloria Thomes on 6/5/2017 at 1:27 pm


Courage Quilt: What is Courage?

On March 21, RMI Trekker Susan R left her home in Florida en route to Kathmandu, Nepal. Susan would be joining RMI Guide Mark Tucker and their team on a 21 day adventure through the Khumbu Valley. From Kathmandu the team would fly to Lukla and begin their trek to Everest Base Camp at 17,575'. Along with the jackets, hiking boots, sleeping bags and other items needed along the trail, Susan brought with her a special Courage Quilt. This quilt was given to her by Mrs. Hixon's 4th Grade class from Oakton Elementary School in Oakton, Virginia. Mrs. Hixon and her class did a project on Nepal and the Himalaya. " It certainly helped me and I think it helped the other team members as well." said Susan. The students were asked the following questions: What is courage? What does it look like? What do you think about when you need to be courageous? The photo below is of the Courage Quilt given to Susan which she brought with her to Nepal.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Have fun with Tuck on the trek. He was a blast on Kilimanjaro 2 years ago.

Posted by: Dick Davies on 5/10/2014 at 12:32 pm

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