Entries from Mt. McKinley
May 27, 2017 11:51 pm PST
Denali loves to tease. We poked our heads out early this morning to frigid temps and a big, dark cap above us. It was enough to quickly convince us to bury our heads back in our sleeping bags for a bit. At our next check though, the cap was thin, the sky clear, and things looking decidedly in our favor. We jumped out, endured the -30 temps' effects on our toes, and fired stoves for breakfast. The sun broke across camp and we were making moves to get ready to carry. We watched instead however as the cap built, winds started to blow along the West Buttress, and we weren't so sure. All across camp, folks had taken down tents, were packed and ready to walk, and leaned on snow walls staring uphill, exchanging doubts with their neighbors. In short order, we pulled the plug on our carry, other teams' tents went back up, and everyone settled in for another rest day. Such is the rhythm of
Denali.
After a few rest days in a row, the tents aren't quite as inviting, the novelty having worn off. So we spent a few hours this afternoon looking at crevasse haul systems, and comparing, exchanging ideas and broadening our skills.
We're in the waiting game. We've got plenty of food and tonne, so we aren't in a rush. We're enjoying the beauty of where we are right now, sure that our chance will come soon.
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny, and Team
May 27, 2017 10:15 pm PST
During our break on the
Polo Field at 12,800',someone asked if we could keep our big down parkas on. Good question. It was pretty darned cold and the wind was directly into our face. I'd never had to climb in my parka at that elevator before, but it sure sounded like a good idea to me. Our attempt yesterday really set us up for success today. The team learned how to keep their faces protected while not fogging up their glasses or goggles. And that allowed us to travel in some chilly conditions today. A great skill to have before we get to the higher, colder parts of the mountain. Our time thus far has been particularly cold and unsettled. I'm just glad we haven't been hanging up at 14,200' this whole time like our other two groups. With luck, we'll get there just as this predicted high pressure system comes through, hopefully with the expected rise in temperatures too. We wore those parkas all the way around Windy Corner to our cache site at 13,500', where we were finally sheltered from the wind and could bask in some sunny, warm weather. Amazingly, we all opted to keep those big coats on all the way back to camp. With the wind at our backs and nothing much in our packs, we could gloat just a bit as we passed by the madding crowds on the uphill slog into the cold wind. Our hard work was done, and we were headed back to camp. There's something to be said about being up early and back early even at the cost of breaking trail each morning.
If we get another break with the weather tomorrow, we might just make the move to 14,200' camp. That would be fantastic, especially how everyone is doing so well.
That's it from 11,200'. It's been a big day.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina, JT & Team
May 27th, 2017
We woke to another day of bitterly cold temps and strong winds above. The weather forecast looks promising for the next few days, so we are optimistic that we will
finally get our shot. We're hanging in there and trying to be patient with this long wait. Hopefully it will pay off.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Hello everyone!
Today we rose early, before the sun.
It was darn cold out, but we still woke everyone.
We ate blueberry pancakes with maple sauce, Man they were delicious and they were the boss!
We were hoping for good weather, to
carry to 17.
But the mountain above us remained unseen.
We chatted with our neighbors and told some jokes, Man those guys are funny blokes!
Tomorrow we'll see what the weather brings.
Hopefully that old sunshine comes out and sings!
RMI Guide Jenny and The camp 14 Hiphopapotomus
Awakening to blue skies we were ready to carry to 13,500', but, unfortunately, the winds picked up suddenly at the top of
Motorcycle Hill and we were forced to bury our load there and retreat to the protection and comfort of camp. The weather taught us some valuable lessons about taking care of ourselves, lessons that will do us well later in the trip as we get higher on the mountain.
As I've mentioned before, we do have a pretty cool team. Perhaps I'll share a brief sketch of the individuals on this team.
I'll start with an incredibly impressive lady who's palmares in mountain climbing outshines most of our accomplishments. And her ability to handle the outrageous loads this climb demands rivals climbers half her age. Oh, she/we hope this summit will be her 50th.
Another member who shares 'senior' status with the aforementioned climber comes from Vermont and is no stranger to cold, harsh conditions. He hasn't been fazed by any of the weather challenges and has handled the climbing like a rock star! No surprise though - I've climbed with him before and reached the summit with his step daughter on this mountain a few years ago.
A climber very dear to my heart, and a favorite of us all, hails from England, and is here with me for the second time. Having not reached the summit the first time, he's back for more. Such a kind-hearted, nicer person you will never meet, and he's more comfortable with the mountain this time around. He is the type of person who makes you feel good to be around him.
We have a couple from Colorado who climbed with me last fall on Rainier. She is amazingly strong, and weighing in at half the weight of some of my climbers, she has still been able to do her part in load carrying and always manages to greet the day with a huge smile.Her other half has the strength of two men, and the energy that knows no bounds. Always helping out with camp chores, we have to sometimes rein him in so he doesn't make us guides look like slackers.
Another couple climbed with me two years ago, but could make this trip happen last year, so here they are. We've really needed to help her come out of her shell here (NOT). She's a dynamo, and I remember her strength two years ago. I think she's even stronger now, as evident in the guns she's sporting for quads. Her husband balances her outgoing nature so nicely, and it's fun watching them together. he has trained incredibly hard, unwilling to be outdone by his partner. In fact, when there is trail breaking to do, I put him right behind me in the hardest spot.
Our last member I remember meeting as I passed one of our Alaskan seminars that take place on the mountain. And now he's here, doing it. Sometimes a bit quieter than the others, he constantly impresses me with strength and ability. Apparently, he's sporting a battery of electronics, but the guy can definitely handle it. He works for Samsung, so I guess it just makes sense.
And then there are the guides:
On his first trip here, JT is rocking it! Always working and asking great questions, he's guiding like a seasoned pro. Great in difficult situations, he's been great company in the tent too.
On our second trip together, Christina has been nothing but exceptional. A joy to be around, she also knows the ins and outs of these climbs and I rely upon her for tying together all the details that makes the expedition run so well.
Then there's me. Just a simple guy that likes walking uphill and bore you with details of life here on the mountain. I'll try not to be so long winded next time.
Good night from 11,200'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
May 26, 2017
When I awoke at the frigid hour of 5 am (temp -23F), I was greeted by a beautiful blue sky above
Denali's summit. I layered up, got out of the tent, and fired up the stoves. By the time the stoves came to life, winds picked up and a cap had formed on the summit. It quickly grew in intensity and size, reaching all the way down to ~16,000'. We had hot drinks and breakfast and them retreated to the tents to stay warm as we monitored the situation. The weather continued to deteriorate and now we find ourselves once again at 14,000' Camp waiting for our shot. The forecast still looks favorable, and we have a few more days left to make it happen. We'll stay in touch...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 26, 2017
Welcome to our team's first dispatch!
We had two unsuccessful attempts to fly into Kahiltna Base Camp yesterday. The current weather on the mountain has only left us with short windows to make a landing. With our returned attempts it allowed us to do some more dry land training and re packing to give us a head start when we do land on the glacier. The team is excited and prepared to start our expedition. Our extra night in Talkeetna provided us with another evening of good food, company and playoff hockey!
As we speak the hanger crew is telling us to get our boots on and load up the planes again. We hope the third time will be the one!
Thanks for following our team and we'll keep you posted along the way!
RMI Guides Tyler, JM and Bryan
May 25, 2017
The
Denali Expedition May 23, 2017 led by
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, JM Gorum and Bryan Mazaika has met their team in Alaska. The group transferred from Anchorage to Talkeetna and spent time arranging their gear, meeting with the National Park Service and enjoying some restaurant meals and showers. The team is prepped and ready to fly but the weather has not yet cooperated with them. At one point they loaded the Twin Otter plans and headed out toward the Alaska Range but the weather deteriorated and they were forced to return to Talkeetna. The group is on standby and will jump when the pilots call and tell them to meet at K2 Aviation. We are hoping the weather clears and they can fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier soon.
Best of luck!
May 25, 2017
We had the sun this morning, but a large cloud
cap over the summit convinced us to wait another day to carry. It was a great day to let the tents bake, dry wet items, and people watch around camp. We capped it with a dinner of quinoa, lentils, kale, and squash in a red wine, bouillon, and Dijon reduction. It was a nice to have some fresher tasting food after 12 days on the mountain. Hopefully we wake to clear skies tomorrow and get our cache on above!
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team
On The Map
Clear skies were a very welcome sight as I peeked out the vestibule on this frigid, frosty morning. Definitely our coldest morning yet! But, we had a cache to put in so the wheels were set in motion for our climb.
Unfortunately, the weather deteriorated to the point where we pulled the plug and took a well deserved rest day instead.
What a treat. Lounging about in the tents, eating, listening to tunes, reading, sleeping, eating some more. Our bodies sucked in the energy from the calories eaten and the warmth provided by the radiation getting through the clouds and snow showers. Tents and sleeping bags dried as our bodies got the recharge we all needed.
The smell of fried onions, red peppers, chicken and chilies greeted us when the dinner bell rang, and no doubt made the rest of camp salivate with envy. Chefs JT and Christina put on yet another fine spread.
It's these simple pleasures that we tend to value so much in the mountains.
After our dress rehearsal this morning and rest day I think we'll be ready to rock tomorrow. The forecast hasn't changed any, but the winds aren't bad. It's just a bit irritating to climb in the occasional snow showers and cloudy weather. But, I guess we've been doing it all week. This team has demonstrated the capacity to climb well, so hopefully we'll get our cache established at 13,500' and be primed to move to
14,200' camp when we can.
Not that I'm a great believer in the weather forecasts around here, but they say high pressure is coming our way by Monday. We're due!
Good night from 11,200', where I'm in our tent at the very reasonable hour of 9:00p after camp chores, and not freezing my fingers in the frigid cold of these Alaskan nights.
Oh, and by the way, your loved ones are all happy and doing exceptionally well. The guides included. If you all have any messages for the team, our office staff will send them our way sometime. Hopefully coinciding with our next rest day where I'll have time to share them with everyone. Just don't get carried away with the heartfelt mushy stuff. I hate choking up in front of the group.
Your messengers of news from above,
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt
On The Map
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Hello, Amazing Mountaineers! So sorry that the only thing you have exercised the last few days is your patience. Hoping and praying for good weather. Pete, Jess and Jenny, we can’t thank you enough for keeping the team’s safety as your top priority. We are impressed with your creative efforts to keep boredom and impatience at bay. It seems you are all using this break to get to know one another and build comradery. I doubt you had much time for this the first part of the trip as you practically sprinted up to the 14 camp! Your meals sound good. Hope Mark didn’t whine too much about the lentil, kale and quinoa stew!
Rachel, is that you in the snow hole in the picture posted on May 20th?
Will the team ahead of you have to complete their summit and return to 14 or 17 before your team can start?
Posted by: Sue Shoemaker on 5/28/2017 at 10:29 pm
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