The rumor mill was definitely flying around the mountain yesterday about some big, bad weather system coming in next weekend... Luckily it has been pushed back out of the extended forecast and our intrepid team has been able to stick to our prescribed acclimatization schedule. Which means we're resting today! Laying around in the tent at over 16,000' isn't as exciting as it sounds but the rest will serve us well as we climb higher tomorrow. We are in good spirits and hopeful that the weather will cooperate as we move in to striking distance over the next couple days.
Laying around, eating jamon y queso, drinking coffee...
It's a grand life,
RMI Guides Billy, Walt, Katrina, and the gang
Our entire team is cheering you on Patrick and can’t wait to see you plant The Comeback Initiative flag proudly on the peak! We know how hard you’ve trained for this, and you continue to amaze us with your courage, fortitude and accomplishments!
Keep up the great work!
Dan Cowan
EXOS / The Comeback Initiative
It is the end of a long, long day that technically began yesterday. I know this sounds a bit odd but my alarm was set for 10:45 pm last night, the 12th. This is one of the least appealing parts of climbing big mountains, knowing you have a huge day to come on average with three hours of sleep. But lucky for the guides and each other, our team was totally motivated. So began the ascent of the equators only snow covered place, Nevado Cayambe at18,997 feet.
From the hut, our route began with an hour and half of rocks and scree ascending 1,000 feet to the start of the glacier. Once on the glacier, newly accumulated snow, which had softened and then frozen, provided perfect climbing conditions up the long sustained glacier. By the time we reached the summit head wall, the temperatures were in the low teens, the wind was blowing and we all climbed to the top in our down parkas. And people thought we were going to Ecuador to get out of winter.
The summit was beautiful offering grand views of our next two mountains, Antisana and Cotopaxi, as well as Quito and Chimborazo. This is what makes the early wake up call, freezing temperatures and exhausted bodies worth it. We took seven hours to get to the top and rallied down in three. Unfortunately, both phones carried by Nick and me died in the cold before the top so a group photo will be coming later.
After getting down and packing up, we hiked 30 minutes down to meet Victor and the magic bus to be carried off to our next accommodations, Papallacta. Here we enjoyed a fantastic meal but most importantly, natural thermal hot tubs. Which reminds me, it's time for a soak.
We are off to Antisana later today. Wish us luck.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
We are continuing to plod our way slowly but steadily up this mountain. Our team woke to beautiful blue skies this morning and took advantage of the good weather by putting in another cache up at our Camp 2, which also goes by the names "Guanacos Camp 3," and "Chopper Camp." No matter what you call it, it sits at over 18k' and is one of the last spots with running water as you ascend. We made short work of the carry, climbing the 2,000' or so in 3 stretches and made even shorter work of the descent back to Camp 1. The skies clouded up this afternoon so we got to enjoy some comfortable napping temps in the tents. We spent the rest of the day eating napples, reading, and listening to tunes. Rumors of deteriorating weather have us pondering our next move but our plans call for another rest and acclimatization day.
We'll see what Mother Nature has in store for us,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
David and I are thinking about you, Meredith. Be save and have a wonderful climb. Love to you.
Posted by: Tracye Wear on 1/14/2014 at 7:08 pm
Nugent, when you hit the casino after your climb make sure to look for a guy wearing a Ferrari tshirt. In the mean time hide your knife from the gouchos!
We awoke in Campo Colera to clear blue skies and light winds this morning, ready for the big pack down back to Plaza Argentina. Within a few short hours we were packed up, ready to roll and heading downhill. There's nothing like using gravity to ones advantage, and the crew did just that throughout the day.
Unfortunately we did have to recover all the gear we cached along the way, so our packs got heavier and heavier as we descended. By the time we got to Plaza Argentina, though, the weight didn't matter, and we bellied right up to waiting juice, crackers, olives, and cake bites as soon as the packs hit the ground.
Despite being tired from the past couple of days of work, the crew is doing well and still has the energy for yet another spirited round of hearts. Everyone sends their love and thanks for following along! Until tomorrow.,,
RMI Guide Garrett Stevens
The gang is all here! It certainly has been an adventure already for half of our team. However, we are all ready to go. For the other part of the team we had a great day in Penitentes, which is a small ski area.
We had our first glance of Aconcagua as we took a 4-hour hike up to 10,000 feet. It's a beautiful view of the south face of Aconcagua. The team finished packing our duffels for the mules and we are ready to walk!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
We said our bittersweet goodbyes to the good life at Plaza Argentina this morning as we headed up on the mountain to begin our climb. No more steak or lasagna dinners but it sure feels good to be finally doing this! The team climbed extremely well and made even better time up to Camp 1 than we did on our carry a couple of days ago. Everybody is a bit tired but in good spirits... Looking forward to a good night's sleep and another work day tomorrow as we try and push a load of supplies further up the mountain.
Also wanted to make a shout out to Garrett's team, who made the summit today! Nice work guys...
Buenas noches de campo 1,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Well...I've always said, "the hardest part of any expedition is just getting to the mountain". And that certainly is the case for my second team here on Aconcagua.
We have everything from missing bags to missing half of the team. Well, they're not missing just really late due to Tormento de Estados Unidos 2014!
However, all the team members are in Argentina. Half the team is in Penitentes and the other half is in Mendoza. We will all join up tomorrow and begin the journey.
We want to congratulate the recent team under Garrett Stevens on their recent summit. We are at 100% expedition success. I feel a trend coming on.
Stay tuned for another exciting adventure with me, Mike "the lion" King and Steve "fresh outta da" Gately.
RMI Guides JJ Justman, Mike King & Steve Gately
Wishing Diane, Randy and Denise better travels in the Andes then the trip down from Detroit and Miami along with marvelous weather. I hope Michigan and Utah gets all of the snow and cold weather instead of hitting your adventure!
Take care!
Bonnie
Our Ecuador Skills Seminar certainly began with its challenges. Missing bags, canceled flights and the works tested us early but once in the mountains things began to fall into place. The clouds held their releases for what seemed to be a private dry spell solely for us on both Pichincha and Fuya Fuya. On the way up to Cayambe, it was raining from the turn off to the parking area. When it was time to pack our bags and walk to the hut, the faucet turned off. On top of weather luck, our local guides Jaime and Diego secured the only working hut on the mountain. All of the large mountain huts we are used to staying in are under major construction. Three other teams are here to climb and they are all in tents. Only the best for us!
This hut helps tremendously with meals, packing and relaxing. Which we are all doing now after a great hike up to the glacier for some basic review of mountaineering skills. Again the weather was perfect and we have had stunning views of the upper mountain and lower valleys the entire time. Excitement is building for our alpine start tonight. Most people would cringe at waking up at midnight but when a mountain like Cayambe looms above, it's hard to even get to sleep.
Wish us well.
RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Nick Hunt
You have the World Geography classes at North Knox Junior Senior High School cheering you on!! Way to go Shannon and Team Ecuador!!
Posted by: Jill Doades on 1/14/2014 at 11:18 am
Great job handling the early challenges, guy. Now on to the fun stuff! Looking forward to hearing from you along the way and remember to be safe. Go team Ecuador!
Well hopefully you got the voice dispatch as well...today was a successful summit day for the crew here on Aconcagua! We woke to clear, dark skies and cool temperatures, for moving well before the sun was up, and were underway with a fairly large cadre of other summit hopefuls.
The sun cracked the horizon as we passed 20,000', casting Aconcagua's immense shadow towards the west and creating some sublime photo opportunities. Steady climbing up through cold winds gave way to still air and a soft-shell summit push, and the crew stepped onto the summit plateau around 1:30pm local time. We sat on top for about an hour, then began the long descent back to camp.
Now the team is fed, has full water bottles, and is tucked into tents for good long night of sleep. Tomorrow we'll start the long descent back into thick air, chasing down dreams of Malbec and beef. Thanks for all the positive wishes!
RMI Guide Garrett Stevens
RMI Guide Garrett Stevens calls from the Aconcagua summit!
Today was a travel day, leaving Otavalo behind and heading up to our basecamp on Cayambe. We kicked the day off with another excellent breakfast at our hacienda before checking out and heading to the Otavalo street market. What an experience that was! Colorful textiles, aromatic foods, and handcrafted arts filled the crowded aisles, stretching as far as the eye could see. After loading up on souvenirs, we piled back into the "magic bus" (so named because of its wifi hotspot and epic Journey soundtrack) and headed up the dirt roads to Cayambe.
After passing a tourist bus stuck in the mud and waiting patiently for a large herd of cows to move out of the road, we pulled over about an hour's walk below the huts. There we left the bus behind and transitioned to walking the rest of the way, giving us one last chance to stretch our legs.
We met Diego, one of our local guides, at our hut and promptly moved in to our new abode. This hut redefines the alpine camping experience! Fireplace, fully stocked kitchen, dining hall... It was glamorous indeed! A home-cooked lasagna dinner and high-stakes board game rounded out the night.
Tonight we'll rest and head uphill tomorrow morning for a day of mountaineering skills practice. It's gettin' real!
RMI Guide Nick Hunt
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Climb strong and climb safe! Be well.
Posted by: Tich on 1/15/2014 at 11:30 pm
Our entire team is cheering you on Patrick and can’t wait to see you plant The Comeback Initiative flag proudly on the peak! We know how hard you’ve trained for this, and you continue to amaze us with your courage, fortitude and accomplishments!
Keep up the great work!
Dan Cowan
EXOS / The Comeback Initiative
Posted by: Dan on 1/15/2014 at 7:16 am
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