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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Cotopaxi Express: Walter & Team Acclimatize on Rucu Pichincha

We experienced some thin air on our first acclimatization hike today, as we climbed Rucu Pichincha, a volcano that sits just to the west of Quito. At 15,413', it was certainly a new altitude record for some climbers on our team. Everyone did well on the climb. Tomorrow we will leave Quito and head south for our next acclimatization hike going up to the climbers' hut on the Illiniza mountains. We'll be in touch with our progress... RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. Elbrus: JJ Justman & Team Arrive in Moscow

The gang is all here in beautiful Moscow. It is a long, tiring flight to get here but we made it and it's nice just to relax in our comfortable hotel near Red Square. A good night's sleep is needed before we partake in our first objective...a city tour of this giant world city. Stay tuned for a great video dispatch tomorrow to see what we explore! RMI Guide JJ Justman
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Hey JJ- heard you have extra company from Richmond- Hi to all. Good intro to Russia with the flight delay. I know you all will have fun on what might be parallel climbs!! best-

Posted by: Elsie on 7/2/2013 at 4:06 pm


Cotopaxi Express:  Mike Walter & Team Tour Quito, Visit Equator

Our Cotopaxi Express trip is under way! Today was the first official day of the trip, and we started it off with an introductory team meeting over breakfast. We spent the rest of the day enjoying an informative and educational City Tour of colonial Quito, visiting various churches and parks, the Presidential Palace and the Virgin of Quito (a large statue situated on a hill above Quito). Our local tour guide, Jorge, is very well versed in the history and culture of Ecuador, and we had great time seeing the city. We also visited an ethnographic museum located on the equator, where we learned about the different indigenous cultures of Ecuador. We also got a photo of our team straddling the equator, some of us in the northern hemisphere and some of us in the southern hemisphere! RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. Rainier: July 1st Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Rob Montague reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team spent about an hour on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. While on the summit, the team experienced a dense cloud cap, decreasing visibility to about 100ft. Summit winds were 20-30 mph and the temperature is warm. We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
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What an accomplishment!  Great stuff.  You make us proud!

Posted by: David Caudle on 7/1/2013 at 10:59 am

Congratulations Markus!!!  On the way down, be on the lookout for any angry birds, even the ones that look only slightly irritated.

Posted by: Moira Street on 7/1/2013 at 10:14 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Waiting for Flight to Talkeetna

Sunday, June 30, 2013 After waking up at 2 in the morning and making a massive push to get to the landing strip, we are stuck in freezing rain with no hope for a flight today. Peter- Cannot wait to see my loving wife and daughter Maggie. Had a great trip! Grasshopper- Dream realized. Love to everyone! Cindy- Thanks for all of the great comments! Maija, the Internet code is Zootrubie :) Sandra- Cant wait for Thanksgiving in Hawaii! Quinn- Save my seat on the couch. Give everyone a hug! See you all soon. Lance- Cannot wait to see my three girls! Kisses to all. Steve- To Bill and Lisa, where are the gluten free Pop Tarts? Tania, can't wait to see you as soon as possible my darling! Uchal- family : I love you all so much and thank you for the understanding and support. I can't wait to see everyone when I get back. I have decided to leave NC this winter so I can spend more time in Roc City. Keep the couches open - I am coming home. Katie- To Mom and Dad, love you and miss you. See you soon! Haugen- Love you Amber, Paris, Paige, Brigitte, Jack, Alex! I love you mom and dad and I for sure owe you a Halibut dinner!! Thank you all for the blog comments!

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Congratulations everyone especially Grasshopper!! So amazing to realise your dream! xxx

Posted by: Kate on 7/1/2013 at 9:03 pm

cannot wait to see lance either!!!!fridge is full. Brits are doing great at Tour de France.Come back quick to watch!xxxxxx

Posted by: elisabeth on 7/1/2013 at 7:12 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Take a Rest Day

Sunday, June 30, 2013 What a perfect day for a rest day! The day dawned calm, but with frequent clouds blotting out the sun. We had a nice, leisurely breakfast, with lots of story telling, chatting, and coffee, and a great afternoon siesta. Then, right on que, the winds and snow that were forecasted to start, rolled into camp. All the work on our snow walls paid off, and we are happily sitting in our protected tents, listening to the freight train roar on the buttress above. It wouldn't be Alaska without some weather, and we are happy to be sitting at 14k rather than 17k! With all our preparations made, we'll sit here and patiently wait this out until the mountain and weather say it's our turn to go. Best from here, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and crew

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Wyatt, We all hope the weather improves soon, it finally stopped raining here so the lake will be warm when you get home.  Can’t wait for all your stories!  Miss you son,  Mom and Dad

Posted by: Marian Evenson on 7/1/2013 at 3:27 pm

Derek and Team:  My thoughts, prayers, and best wishes are with you and all of your team members as you prepare to make the final push to the summit.  Everyone must be so eager to finally reach the top.  It’s been great being able to follow your progress up to this point and a waking hour hasn’t past where I don’t think about you up there on that mountain.  Stay strong, focused, and most of all safe.  Good Luck!! -  Pops

Posted by: Pops on 7/1/2013 at 2:41 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

Sunday, June 30, 2013 Another Denali day, another camp built. We slept in until three this morning and then sprang into action. It doesn't get dark in this part of Alaska in late June, but it gets shadowy, which can be a beautiful thing, even with a storm moving in. It was pretty plain, as we ate breakfast and then knocked down our tents at 9500 ft, that the forecasts were correct and that it wouldn't be long before weather deteriorated. But we felt we still had a little time. As we were getting ready, we enjoyed seeing Mike Haugen's victorious climbing team passing through on their descent. We exchanged handshakes, hugs, route information and then wished each other well. We were out of the old camp and on the site of our new one at 11,000 ft in just over three hours, which meant that we were sitting pretty a few hours after that when things began to get nasty. It rained a bit through the afternoon, which is not so typical this high up Denali, but by evening it was the more typical onslaught of wind and snow. By then we were well dug in and ready for it. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Hi Will! So glad things are going well for you so far! I’m really enjoying the detailed daily updates. Stay strong…and warm! Love you!
-Amy

Posted by: Amy Huson on 7/1/2013 at 8:37 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at Washburn’s Thumb

Sunday, June 30th, 2013 Greetings! After spending some time resting and recuperating at 14K Camp, we jumped on the tiger today, aka the fixed lines, and climbed to 16,700' to cache gear and food at Washburn's Thumb. The steep and often exposed climbing was some of first of the expedition, and the team performed exceptionally. The hard work of the day was rewarded with a team favorite meal consisting of Annie's Mac and Cheese with bacon. Tomorrow will be spent resting back in the comfort of 14K Camp while we wait on a favorable weather forecast to begin our final move up to Denali's high camp. Best, RMI Guides Robby, Pete, Geoff and Team

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Hi Tommy, I hope you are awesome today! For every day that passes, I miss you more than the day before! Not being able to talk to you is the hardest part. I have started talking to you in letters, though, and since I have no place to send them, you’ll have quite a few to read when you get home. This has made me remember when we wrote letters many years ago. Sara and Brandon send their love! They are great! I saw Brandon briefly yesterday. He came by to get his golf clubs to hit balls at the driving range with his friends. I can’t wait for all of us to be sitting down to dinner together again. I’m happy to hear that everything is progressing on schedule. It sounds like the team is working well together.  Everyone here is getting excited for summit day. I’m sure you and the team even more so. I am praying for strength and focus as the challenge of the ascent to the top becomes more difficult. My love and thoughts are always with you.
Rhonda

Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 6/30/2013 at 2:33 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team To Thicker Air

Saturday, June 29th, 2013 After a good sleep, we woke up and started packing. The goal for the day was to get as low and as far as possible to set us up for flying off the mountain tomorrow. The crux of the walk out is timing the walk out on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. We have to walk across this part while the snow bridges over the crevasses are frozen. This means a late night/early morning walk to the air strip. We made it all the way to 11k Camp so we are set up to walk the glacier at the right time...as long as we only sleep for two hours! Wish us luck and good weather so we can fly tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6 P.S. Grasshopper wants to thank Annie and Rose for the support and sacrifices!

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big concern from little calgarians: is there any chocolate left??

Posted by: elisabeth on 6/30/2013 at 4:35 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Slightly Elevated at 9,600’

Saturday, June 29th, 2013 Conditions at 4:45 AM were perfect for moving from 8,000' on the Kahiltna Glacier to 9,600 ft. So we did. We'd gotten up at 2:00 a.m. to have a hot breakfast and we could see scattered clouds overhead and a cap above Denali's summit but there was no wind. Our route up Ski Hill was blissfully free of dicey crevasse crossings and the snow surface had frozen up enough to make walking and sled pulling a bit easier than yesterday. Even so, Ski Hill was long, slow, and uphill. We were up to 9,600' in just over three and a half hours. Already by this point, digging in and building a new camp in a beautiful place was becoming routine. Clouds cleared down valley so that we had unobstructed views of nearly the entire length of the Kahiltna while we worked. The sun became brutally intense by midday, but by then we were sheltered in the tents, napping, drinking water and reading. We got together for dinner in the evening as things cooled down. We talked strategy for our move to 11,000', secured camp for the night and turned in early once again. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Thankful for technology that gives a picture into this experience. 93 in Tacoma. Headed for Whidbey and Dungeness crab tomorrow. Prayers for your safety going up constantly.

Posted by: Donna Nelson on 6/30/2013 at 4:23 pm

Mike & Max Reese + team - Wishing you cold , firm snow and calm weather during your ascent!  Thinking of you while sitting on a beach in Costa Rica.  Best Wishes!

Posted by: David Reese on 6/30/2013 at 3:05 pm

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