Entries from Expedition Dispatches
The
Five Day Summit Climb June 7 - 11, 2018 made their summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning but were turned back at 11,200ft due to poor weather and route conditions.
RMI Guides Jenny Konway and Jordan Cargill reported several inches of new snow at Ingraham Flats. The teams returned safely to Camp Muir and will descend to Paradise later this morning.
Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 3:08 pm PT
Clouds and snow moved in last night just prior to dinner. We had the chance to see our 2 RMI Teams who had been on the summit Friday and get some route info. The snow continued through out the night with minimal accumulation. When we woke, there were faint views of the surrounding peaks and ridges. After breakfast we roped up and walked down to our cache at 9700' and dug up our food and supplies. There has been a low pressure system moving in from the North and being near the demarcation line was quite stunning. As we turned the corner onto the
Kahiltna Glacier, we could see clouds rolling over Kahiltna Pass and Kahiltna Dome while the view South was blue skies and calm weather. Soon we were engulfed in the clouds and light snow for the walk back to 11,000' Camp. Now we are back in our tents listening to snow fall and enjoying the warmth of the sun trying to cook through the clouds. The Team is doing well, we are hopeful that the winds stay calm so we can carry around Windy Corner or even into Fourteen Camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 9:26 PM PT
Good afternoon again from Little Swiss! We had a great second day on the ice, reviewing more skills, and getting ready for our first climbing objective tonight. We ventured to the top edge of this
Pika Glacier, overlooking the tundra, and spent quite some time getting familiar with the transitions and rope work on snow, as well as checking potential routes for later in the program.
We have switched to a night schedule, so we can move efficiently during the coldest hours of the day, as it has been scorching hot here. We are waking up shortly after midnight, and heading down glacier for a mixed steep snow-rock climb. Stay tuned for more!
RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos
Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 11:13 PM PT
After a late night making dinner and filling water bottles, we were content to sleep in a bit until the sun hit the tents and made things a bit warmer. With packs full, we rallied back along the
West Buttress, beating the oncoming traffic to the fixed lines. We rendezvoused with Tyler Jones's team at 14,000', where they were so kind as to hook us up with water and high fives, then we kept the train rolling down to 11, where Mike King's team let us use their kitchen tent and had already dug up our cache for us. We're going to sleep a few hours here, then wake up in the (not) dark (it's Alaska in the summer time) to walk the last piece to base camp, aiming to be there for first flights in the morning. Keeping our fingers crossed for flyable weather and a cold IPA before noon!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
On The Map
Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 8:43 PM PT
A message written by the team:
"Today we took a rest on the edge. At the aptly named
Edge of the World outside of 14 camp we stopped for some great photos. Photos so grand, you’ll never see them. The snow fell gently in the afternoon air. We pondered our favorite planets. Security felt a little lax around camp and with murmurs of winter coming we built some walls around camp. Afterwards, during dinner, we concluded that the sun is the collective favorite planet. Have to be honest, the mountain food is just food. But the guides cooking skills are super awesome. Looking forward to capping off the night with some gentle snoring to keep the local wildlife at bay. Tomorrow should probably be a super epic day."
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
On The Map
Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 5:36 PM PT
Day 4 had us up early and breaking down camp. The surrounding area at 2:30 AM with no wind seems like it's perpetually 9:00 PM. We hauled our camp and personal gear to
11,000' Camp over 6.5 hours and the team did great. Some people have sore feet and some have sore hips, those real pressure points a constant reminder of what it's like to do hard work in the mountains.
Our new camp is nestled in a basin that is surrounded by large glacial features and the backdrop is Motorcycle Hill and the Father and Sons Wall. Tomorrow we will go back to 9,700' to retrieve our cached food and fuel and then rest the remainder of the day.
Weather continues to be great and the forecast inaccurate so when they forecast a clear day we'll probably be battening down the hatches. Until then I am hoping for a forecast of snow that never a arrives and winds that don't materialize. So much in life we can't control, this team is doing a great job of focusing on the things they can control.
That's all from 11,000' on Denali.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Sat 6/9/2018 9:42 AM
Hello friends and family,
We are slowly getting moving this morning after yesterday's 13 hour summit day. It was long but everyone moved with confidence up and down. We celebrated with a midnight mountain house dinner back at camp and went straight to bed.
Today's goal is to descend back to 11,000 ft camp. The only down side to a smooth, quick trip is that we will have to pick up and carry out all our extra food, but I would pick that over a long trip with bad weather everyday.
If the weather continues to cooperate, we will fly off the mountain first thing tomorrow and the next time you will hear from us will be from the sunny street of Talkeetna. Thanks for following along with our Denali adventure Alden, Brett, Chip, Tyler, JM, and Walt.
Safe travels,
RMI Guide Walt Hailes & Team
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Christina Dale reached High Break at 13,500' on
Mt. Rainier before high winds forced the team to turn. Dave reported very strong winds and clouds above and below the them. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Good evening from the Pika Glacier, on the
Alaska Range! We had a great first day of activity today. We had a late afternoon flight in yesterday, and the pertinent camp building marathon. Today, with blue skies, we ventured down Glacier to the "Hobbit's Footstool" rock formation for practice; besides some rock climbing-cragging, we reviewed a lot the rope systems that we'll be implementing in the upcoming days. Everyone enjoyed their time on the glacier and rocks, but the hit today was definitely the steak dinner.
We're now headed to bed, waiting for a better day of fun on this incredible area of the Alaska Range!
Regards RMI Guide Elias and the Alpine Climbing Team.
Friday June 8, 2018 8:37 PM
The Jones Team had an excellent and hard day getting our cache established at
17 Camp! The cold morning had us clawing our toes to keep them warm but by our first break of the day we hit the sunshine to warm us up. Our practice yesterday in camp had us dialed to send it right up the fixed lines with style and in good time. The weather was beautiful on the ridge, with sun and no wind, it allowed us to continue climbing higher to deliver our supplies to 17,200 ft. The descent was just as exhausting but we are back at 14,000' camp cooking up dinner to replenish ourselves from the effort.
Tomorrow calls for a rest day before we await our window for our summit bid! The forecast is calling for high winds on the summit through the weekend so we may be waiting down here at 14 camp till early next week. Either way some rest and further acclimatization will be beneficial and we are ready when our chance comes!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
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Great job everyone and hi dad (David McCampbell)! Keep up the great work. Loving these updates!
-Patti
Posted by: Patti Van Lange on 6/10/2018 at 9:56 pm
Hi JT-
My dad and I had a JT Type 2 day of fun just for you.. Sixty-two miles in the pouring rain. We hope you are enjoying your time up there! The pictures are beautiful! Sending big hugs from the Emmer family!
Maddy
Posted by: Madeline Emmer on 6/10/2018 at 8:38 pm
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