Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 10:30 PM PT We're falling into the rhythm of Denali. After a big day yesterday, it seemed appropriate to take a rest day and avail ourselves of the comforts of 14,000' Camp. It was a stellar, beautiful day and we rested for most, taking a brief reprieve to practice and train for the fixed lines tomorrow. We'll take our first spin on those and everyone is excited to get on the West Buttress and some exciting terrain! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Happy Birthday to your mate on the mountain!

Rich hope all is going well! Can’t wait to hear all about your trip when you get back home

Posted by: Susie and the kids on 6/2/2018 at 7:51 pm

Happy birthday to Hank Huntington! -Thomas

Posted by: Thomas Huntington on 6/2/2018 at 11:38 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach the Crater

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Steve Gately, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb May 30 - 2 June, 2018 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide Steve Gately reported consistent 20 mph winds and cloudy conditions. The team will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

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Congrats team! What an amazing accomplishment!

Posted by: Staci Ikeler on 6/3/2018 at 6:45 pm

Awesome! Wonderful! Best news I’ve had in a long time. Enjoy the descent and the memories of a life time experience together. Thank you for the blog information. It made my day for sure.

Posted by: Helen PicKell on 6/2/2018 at 1:16 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 9:30 PM PT We had our first rest day of the trip today, and the team certainly earned it. The weather was perfect, with blue skies, and a cool breeze that kept us from baking in the tents. The day went pretty quickly, which is not always the case. We passed most of the time trading stories about our most embarrassing moments, and listening to Finnish heavy metal courtesy of our friendly neighbors. Not much else to report from the mountain today. We'll check in tomorrow, hopefully from our new home at 14,000'. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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Brett,
We are so proud of you! Garrett and I miss you but we’re doing great and we’re happy thinking about you, Alden, and Chip on this amazing adventure! We’re sorry we missed your sat call. We love you!!! Xoxo

Posted by: Kate on 6/2/2018 at 9:55 pm

Alden, keep pumping brother. Me and the lady buglettes are behind you and your team 110%.

Bugman

Posted by: Matt Lattig on 6/2/2018 at 6:10 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Complete Seminar, Return to Talkeenta

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 348'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 6:33 PM PT From the top of Radio Tower to the bottom of the crevasse on the Kahiltna, your guides; Christina, Lucas, and Alex thank the Alaska Seminar team for bringing a sense of humor and awe to the 9 days spent together. We are now off the ice and onto burgers and brews.

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Pack Camp and Move to Huanya Potosi Base Camp

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 15,200'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 6:21 PM PT The sun warmed our tents before a majority of the team was up and about this morning. We decided to sleep late and take advantage of some well deserved rest after our climb of Pequeno Alpamayo the day before. Cups of tea and coffee, bread with honey and scrambled eggs with ham rounded out breakfast. Today was a move day. After breakfast, we slowly packed up our camp and walked back out of the Condoriri Valley to the awaiting Land Cruisers. With our duffles loaded tightly in the trucks and above on metal racks, we quickly drove the 20 miles back out to the highway and headed south toward Zongo Pass, the basecamp for Huayna Potosi. The refugio here is a nice change from the tents that we have spent the last few nights sleeping in. Heated rooms, ample storage and electrical outlets seem like a real luxury. The plan tomorrow is to move up to a hut higher on the mountain to get in position for our climb. The trail uphill is steep, but we will have porters helping with our load and expediting our progress. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear at 10,200’

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 4:58 PM PT Today we awoke to a clear and cold morning in camp and after breakfast we began the hour long climb up Ski Hill. Taking advantage of the brisk temperature, it allowed us to stay cool and good snow conditions had us walking in just our boots. Walking without snowshoes let us set a good pace to our cache site at 10,200 ft. At the cache, we left some group meals, extra personal food and gas that we don’t need for a few days. After burying our gear, we descended back to camp in bluebird skies, sun and incredible views of the Lower Kahiltna glacier. Soon enough however, the heat of the sun had us retreating back down to camp and into our tents for some rest and relaxation after a hard morning. The menu for tonight calls for some quesadillas, which is most often a favorite meal on the mountain! If the weather holds true tomorrow, we hope to make the ascent again tomorrow and move our camp to 11,200'. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Team Jones,
It’s exciting to read your blog everyday. Thanks for sharing this advantageous journey with us. Best luck to you guys! Luv you, Lei. Hao

Posted by: Hao on 6/2/2018 at 7:50 am

Good morning Nick and team! Love following along on this adventure. The pictures are beautiful. Praying for great weather and safe travels for all of you! Coeli (Nick’s Mom) XO

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/2/2018 at 6:13 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 12:00 AM PT Basically today could be summed up as everything went exactly as planned. It was incredibly calm this morning with a thin cloud hanging across the Polo Field, that suggested things would get warm. We rocked out of camp, and just kept rolling until we walked into 14,000' Camp around 5.30 to see our friends on Mike Walter's team. We set up camp nearby, a compound of sorts, and now we're diving into sleeping bags, hurried there by the chill air of 14,000' and the sudden departure of the sun behind a ridge. Tomorrow we plan to rest. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Happy Birthday Henry Huntington! You make it harder and harder for me to wish you a happy birthday, but as you learned long ago, I will track you to the ends of the Earth (and pay $6.00/min—which is $15.75 today) just to wish you a happy birthday! (OK, it was yesterday - but there is the surprise!)—Michael

Posted by: Michael Goldstein on 6/3/2018 at 6:31 pm

Happy birthday Henry. Best wishes for a smooth climb.

Posted by: Matthew burek on 6/2/2018 at 12:26 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Crevasse Rescue and Ice Climbing Bonanza

May 31, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Jordan Cargill, JT Schmitt, Gloria Roe, Ross Morgan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,000'

Today's mixed bag of weather didn't dampen anyone's enthusiasm to train in and around the crevasses near Camp Muir. If anything, we were all smug in the knowledge that we took advantage of fantastic weather when we could to summit and would deal with less than ideal weather for our training. Even the blisters and sore feet of the climb seemed to go away with our great night of sleep. I was impressed with how the group really learned the skills to effect a rescue of a partner from a crevasse, then jumped at the chance to get back in the hole to ice climb out. Most even got in seconds on the ice climbs. Our evening talk in the bunkhouse covered everything from altitude illness, mountain medicine, expedition life, Denali and Everest to things better left unmentioned here. I apologize in advance to all of you if your partners on this seminar come home with ambitions to climb more and bigger mountains in the future. Tomorrow, sadly, is our last day. However, a morning of training will be followed by excitement to get down off the mountain, have a beer and burger and get back to our loved ones and the comforts of home. It's been a great week and we hope to be able to climb together again sometime soon. Au revoir from Camp Muir. RMI Guide Brent Okita

Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team’s Last Supper on the Glacier

May 31, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 7,300'

May 31, 2018 - 10:32 pm PT We just finished up out last dinner (weather permitting) on the glacier. Today we loaded gear on our backs and sleds and moved to basecamp where our group decided to set up tents then take an evening glacier hike to the base of the North Face of Mount Hunter to say farewell to the Alaska Range. We all feel grateful for the time to learn and explore here. I know for a fact many of our team will be back soon to climb the Great One. RMI Guide Christina Dale

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Make a Carry to 13,500’

May 31, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

May 31, 2018 - 7:26 pm PT Another beautiful day on Denali, which we started by singing happy birthday to Chip and we finished by making a no bake birthday cheesecake (we can only do so much at 11,200ft). Along with the birthday festivities, we are really enjoying this stretch of nice days as we move higher on the mountain. Today as we carried a big load of supplies to our cache spot at 13,500ft, we all felt the previous four days of hard work. Everyone climbed in good style but it was clear that it is time for a rest day, tomorrow we sleep in, hang out at camp and catch up on our reading and movies. Best wishes from Denali, RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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Happy belated Birthday Chip! Looks like an amazing adventure. Go team!
Stay safe. xoxo Leslie

Posted by: Leslie on 6/1/2018 at 5:38 pm

Tyler, great climbing buddy, be safe. Will need to hear details when you get back.

Eddie

Posted by: Eddie Tumminia on 6/1/2018 at 5:23 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach the Crater

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Complete Seminar, Return to Talkeenta

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Pack Camp and Move to Huanya Potosi Base Camp

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear at 10,200’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make Move to 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Crevasse Rescue and Ice Climbing Bonanza

Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team’s Last Supper on the Glacier

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Make a Carry to 13,500’

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