Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: King & Team Build Camp at 14,000’

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 7:42 PM PT After yesterday's grueling day the team slept in until the sun hit our tents, 9ish. We had a slow start with salmon and cream cheese bagels and coffee. The goal for today was to build walls around our tents and get our kitchen/dining tent dug out and reinforced. The walls are built by digging through the loose snow into the firm layers below. Then we take snow saws and begin to quarry large blocks to be the foundational row. Each successive layer gets smaller so the wall isn't top heavy. The walls help keep wind from destroying our tents. The team rallied through their wall building then helped the guides finish reinforcing the kitchen tent or Posh as we call it. The Posh is a five sided tent without a floor. We dig a hole in the snow and have benches for people to sit and cooking counters for the guides. Out of the wind and sun we enjoy our meals, today's dinner is hand rolled chicken burritos. With the menacing forecast on the horizon we will put the finishing touches on camp and hunker down for the remnants of a tropical cyclone that is headed for Alaska. People are happy for the sunshine and tired from the 'light exercise' of camp craft. This helps us acclimate in preparation for heading to 17,000' Camp, High Camp, for our cache day and ultimately our summit day when the weather and mountain tell us it's time to go up. Until then we will be at 14,000' continuing to get comfortable being uncomfortable and focusing on the tasks that our in our control and leaving the conditions that our out of our control to Denali. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

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So fun following your adventure, Robbo! You’ve got a huge fan base down here, everyone’s asking about you - and I’ve been in mis-matched socks since you hit the trail :) Sounds like you’re in for a few euchre days! Have fun. Be safe. Love to you and Cole. And prayers for the whole team. XO, Mamoose

Posted by: Susan Wyper on 6/15/2018 at 4:01 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Preparation at 14K Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, June 14th - 4:36 pm PT We aren’t getting restless yet! We had a beautiful but gusty morning at camp that allowed us to improve our storm walls and batten down the hatches. The summit has been displaying quite the cap over it with long tails indicating the strong winds up high on top of the frigid temperatures. The forecast has finally confirmed that beginning tomorrow and through the weekend will bring heavy snow. We are going to catch the tail of a tropical surge coming off the Pacific, some words to describe it have been a cyclone or Pineapple Express. We will keep you updated on the snowfall amounts! Yesterday, we had a greeting party to welcome Mike King’s team at 14 Camp. We are glad to have some additional company as we wait out this storm. Thanks for the blog comments from our family and friends, keep them coming! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I should read my voice recognition typo’s before I send. That first line was supposed to have read:

YOU ARE ALL SO AMAZING!!!

Posted by: Liuise (again) on 6/15/2018 at 7:29 pm

You are also amazing!!
It seemed that everything was going so smoothly at first but it is these days of enduring this storm that will probably the story that gets told a lot. Too bad you can’t package the cold and bring it back with you to Las Vegas, huh Marc! We’re cheering you on from down here in the Rockies!

Posted by: Louise on 6/15/2018 at 7:26 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Dale & Team Summit Via the Kautz Route

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

At 12:36 pm RMI Guide Christina Dale radioed from the Mt. Rainier summit. Her team reached the summit via the Kautz Glacier during their six-day seminar. The team will check in from their high camp and descend the rest of the way off the mountain tomorrow.

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Good job team! Descend safely today and enjoy yourselves when you are done. Way to go Reiss!

Posted by: Alexis Walter on 6/15/2018 at 12:13 pm

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Mt. Rainier: RMI Teams Summit!

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

On a calm and cold morning, RMI Guides Eric Frank and Andy Bond led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier. They are above the clouds enjoying the sun on their descent. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

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Congratulations to all! Quite an accomplishment.

Posted by: Ann Hernick on 6/15/2018 at 10:50 am

This message is from the “other Stephanie Renner”. I’m so happy for Chris and Andy Renner! What an accomplishment!

Posted by: Stephanie Renner on 6/14/2018 at 5:17 pm

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Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias & Team Climb the Munchkin and Middle Troll

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska

Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 12:04 AM PT Good evening again from the little Swiss! Another day, another summit! Or summits I should say... the group split and the 2 rope teams headed in opposite directions, towards the east and west ends of the upper Pika Glacier. On one side, a team surmounted the Munchkin. On the other, the South Face of the Middle Troll, a towering rock formation that, with its splitter granite cracks and balancing boulders, provides delicate yet rewarding climbing and the most radical of the views. The weather has been perfect, and we're now going to bed tired, but accomplished and with a full stomach after a quite good pesto pasta dinner! RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos & Chase Nelson

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It is so nice that all of you return back safely.

Posted by: Xu Guoliang on 6/14/2018 at 7:51 pm

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT With a forecast that hasn't been stellar, the guides woke at 2:30 AM only to see strong winds above. We continued to check for high winds until 6 am, needing to make a decision on whether to move camp or burn another weather day, we opted to pack up. Hoping for the sun to calm the wind we started out at 9 am through boot high snow, calf high snow, knee high snow and you guessed it thigh high snow. We made good time without any congestion on the route, but it was not an easy day. Once we picked up our cache at 12,500' we slogged up towards Windy Corner. Packs were heavy, sleds didn't help and the loose drifted in snow made for a tired team. We got chased around Windy Corner by a storm then promptly walked into a basin where the wind had stopped and we were quickly to hot. Today's lesson was, "learn to be comfortable, being uncomfortable". Freeze or fry is all you can expect up here, ideal doesn't exist. We will take a well deserved rest day tomorrow and maybe for the next week if the projected Pineapple Express weather front dumps 9 feet of snow. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

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Diana King here, Mike’s Mom. We to enjoy keeping up wit the Team from Atlanta. Wish he could get home more often.

Posted by: Diana King on 6/15/2018 at 2:09 pm

Robb-o!!
Sending some positive weather vibes your way!! Hope you, Cole and the rest of the team are having an awesome adventure!!
XOXOXO

Sharoni

Posted by: Sharon Del Vecchio on 6/14/2018 at 5:17 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT Today we had another great breakfast. Then the crew geared up for a climb up towards the fixed ropes. We have had more than our share of good rest in the past few days. We needed to move some blood and keep our fitness we have gained on this trip. From the forecast we are seeing it looks like we could have a few more days of poor weather. We hope to take another climb for fitness tomorrow and be ready for a break in the weather. Fingers crossed! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

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Hey you guys !
Time for games of red light / green light, follow the leader, and good old Tag “your it”!!!
Maybe do timed “races”...?

Just be careful up there.

Cheering you on from below!
David’s Mom

Posted by: Ruth on 6/14/2018 at 11:38 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 8:54 PM PT The mountain weather was kind to us today. After a hearty breakfast at the Roadhouse in Talkeetna, we made our way to the airstrip where K2 Aviation told us we were good to fly. We hopped into our climbing clothes, did our last minute list checks, and got into the planes. After a phenomenal 45 minute flight over the tundra and into the Alaska Range, we landed on the snow runway that is Kahiltna Base Camp. We spent the day taking in the sights, practicing crevasse rescue skills, and preparing for our long, heavy slog to our next camp at 7,800'. Our plan is to wake up super early and be traveling across the Kahiltna Glacier while all of the snow bridges are very frozen. We also like to travel at night to avoid baking in the heat of the day as all of the white, snowy surfaces reflect sun back up at us. We either freeze or fry in the mountains and the 24 hours of daylight allow us to travel safely whenever we choose based on the temperature. RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

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Looks like beautiful weather! Wishing you all a safe and amazing climb, especially you Craig Clark!

Posted by: Carol clark on 6/14/2018 at 8:29 am

Hello Mike, I’m looking forward to following this team up to the summit and back. It was a pleasure climbing with Rusty, Josh and David on Mt Rainier in 2015. I know that they are in good hands on this trip.

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/14/2018 at 5:15 am

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Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:59 AM PT Our Denali Expedition Team is assembled in Talkeetna and ready to climb! After the last hectic few days of travel and packing, we are loaded in the plane and ready to be on our way to the mountain. We are looking forward to the adventure and challenge we are facing. Wish us luck!!! RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan and Gloria Roe

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Josh,
Just heard from Keith. Fire has been contained and evac has been lifted.
We are all headed out for our helicopter tour! Hope everyone is doing well. Love and hugs!

Posted by: Sarah Levy on 6/15/2018 at 12:48 pm

Hey Glo! So sorry about the blocking situation. I love and admire you and I wish your team safe adventures. What a great weather day to start out.

Posted by: Michelle Weekly on 6/13/2018 at 11:34 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 9:56 PM PT Today was another windy and snowy day here at 14,000' Camp. After a late breakfast, despite the snow, the team worked together to make an igloo to improve the comfort of the bathroom experience given the current conditions. It’s little projects like these around camp that help down days go by. After a few hours of resting back in our tents the sun made an evening appearance that allowed us to stretch our legs around camp and clear out some of the snow again. The skiers on the mountain have been taking advantage of the evening clearings by enjoying the powder turns to be had just above camp. We’ve enjoyed standing out in the sun watching them ski back to camp. Unfortunately, the outlook for the forecast took a big swing this morning and instead of high pressure settling in for the weekend it now appears we are expecting a major snowstorm and continued high winds through Saturday to stall our summit bid. The team is staying optimistic however, given we may be at 14 camp for a few more days. Tomorrow’s another day and a forecast is only a forecast! RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team

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Matt Hill, hang in there! We are planning a full reception at the Blanford Rec Center when you get back. There may even be a famous rapper from L.A. there to sing with bubbles.

Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/13/2018 at 1:20 pm

Really glad to hear of your resourcefulness ! I’m sure your igloo is much bigger than the on David made with his siblings in the front yard long ago..
Be warm and happy !
Stay strong.
Love,
David’s Mom

Posted by: Ruth on 6/13/2018 at 9:12 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: King & Team Build Camp at 14,000’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Preparation at 14K Camp

Mt. Rainier: Dale & Team Summit Via the Kautz Route

Mt. Rainier: RMI Teams Summit!

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias & Team Climb the Munchkin and Middle Troll

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

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Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

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