Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Turned Back by Weather

June 9, 2016

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,500'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Ben Liken made their summit attempt this morning but turned back after reaching 12,500' due to increased winds and cold temperatures. The teams have returned to Camp Muir were they will have a short break before continuing to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Good work teams!

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

June 9, 2016 - 1:56 am PT We awoke this morning inside a ping pong ball. Watching the weather for a few hours revealed a slightly improving trend, certainly no deterioration. We decided that it was manageable and set forth. The clouds we traveled through and among were friendly and trail breaking was quite doable for this squad. We kept flowing up until we strolled into 14 Camp. We dumped a hefty load of supplies to ease our eventual move to the upper mountain. We are sitting pretty back at 11,000' Camp, fed and ready for bed. Nice work team! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Dear B-Law, if you’re reading this note you already know. The house has been boarded up. The doors. The windows. Everything. We’re at the Comfort Inn. Room 112. I love you. Austin

Have fun Team. Brad, send me a postcard from the top.

Posted by: Austin on 6/9/2016 at 6:40 pm

Hi Mattie-

We miss you so much and love hearing about your team’s progress through Jake’s updates. The boys, the PC’s, Adryan, Taira and I are all praying for favorable weather for you in the days ahead. Stay warm, rested, hydrated and focused! Love from us all!

Lil

Posted by: Lil on 6/9/2016 at 6:38 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Elias and the Alpine Team Climb the Lost Marsupial

June 9, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

June 9, 2016 - 1:28 am PT And... we climbed the "Lost Marsupial", on The Throne. Stellar route, stellar scenery and stellar crowd. It is hard to describe what it is to be atop one of these formations, surrounded by the longest glaciers in North America, the tallest peaks in the Alaska Range, and the best views in the world. Nobody around for miles, and a sense of insignificance directly proportional to the size of our accomplishment. Our two rope teams climbed and descended synchronized, like a well oiled machine, and pitch after pitch, rock, ropes, snow and gear were one with our climbers. Magic enough? More tomorrow. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Carries to 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

June 8, 2016 - 10:30 pm PT The team did an excellent job today. The weather was mealy; periods of light snow, partly cloudy, some wind here and there. Everyone handled all these conditions, and a big climbing day, in stride. We made our way from 11 Camp up Motorcycle Hill, up Squirrel Hill, across the Polo Fields, around Windy Corner and on to 14 Camp. At 14,000' we caught our first glimpse of the Upper West Rib for a few seconds when the clouds parted. Then we headed back to our home at 11 Camp. Everyone is feeling great and excited to move up a little more. Thanks for following along, cross your fingers for good moving weather for us. RMI Expeditions Upper West Rib Team

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rest at High Camp

June 8, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 8, 2016 - 2:25 p.m. PDT Hi from High Camp on Denali! We were in a holding pattern this morning as we had high winds and very cold temperatures. Now the day has warmed up and winds have died a bit, but we are sitting in a very thick cloud. The tents are warm as always with the sun's intense radiation shining through. So we sit and wait, snoozing, mixed with conversation, laughter and anticipation. When our window arrives we are in crouching tiger position, ready to launch on our summit push. RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team

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Schlax,

Sorry to hear you are stuck at camp. Eric is keeping me informed about what that must be like. I imagine it’s more fun than the Builder, and less miserable than attending a rainy losing ND game.

Today I drove to North Lame (or some town nearby that looked exactly the same). It was 95° and smelled strongly of cows. I sat in a windowless conference room for 6 hours and then drove back. My coworkers made a big deal out of eating Rocky Mountain Oysters, which I think sounds like a good name for a local minor league team.

Remember, if you can’t climb because of the cold, use your artistic eye to find an ice cave ballroom.

Love,
Mary

Posted by: Mary on 6/9/2016 at 6:28 am

PULLING FOR YOU GUYS EVERY DAY. THE RMI POSTS ARE GREAT.
BE SAFE
SENDING BEST WISHES TO ENTIRE TEAM AND ESPECIALLY MY FAMILY DAN AND ERIC.

Posted by: Karen Stewart on 6/8/2016 at 8:22 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Practice Alpine Climbing Transitions

June 8, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 8, 2016 - 12:12 am PDT And...The sun shined upon us! What a day we had. Full session on the Munchkin Formation practicing alpine climbing transitions, lasted from morning to evening. Another gourmet dinner brought us to bed time with the sun still on the horizon. We're ready to tackle our first objective here in Little Swiss. Tune in tomorrow to see how it went. RMI Guide Elías deAndres Martos and Team.

Denali: Upper West Rib Expedition Team Enjoys a Day of Rest

June 8, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 8, 2016 - 10:04 pm PDT The weather gods heard our prayers last night and rewarded us with cold clear skies this morning and views south towards Kahiltna Dome and Mount Foraker. Views to the Northeast revealed the first obstacle of our next leg, Motorcycle Hill, and further in the distance the Southern end of the West Buttress and the Upper Peters Glacier. Our team enjoyed a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon and hash browns and with full stomachs we promptly went to work fortifying our camp by building snow walls around our tents, kitchen and most importantly building a bathroom fit for a Kings royal tush! The rest of the day was spent snacking, lounging and preparing for our carry tomorrow. For the rest of our ascent we will carry part of our gear and food higher on the mountain, in this case to somewhere between 13,600 - 14,000, and then return to our previous camp (11,000) This process not only helps reduce the weight needed to be carried between camps but will also allow the team to begin acclimatizing by climbing high and sleeping low where our bodies can better recover. We're now settled in for the night and the clouds have rolled back through camp and a light snow is falling. Everyone is doing great and were all excited to be trading sleds and snowshoes for crampons and an ice axe. From here on out we're climbing! RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looking good guys. Weather looks like it’s been a bit challenging but you are up to the task. Keep up the good work. You are creating memories of a lifetime!

Posted by: SueP on 6/8/2016 at 1:50 pm

Keep up the good work ! Looks nice out but I think I would rather be on a snowmobile !!

Not sure if your bread crumbs are working - the tracker show 39 entries with the last one 3 days ago (June 5th)

Have a good climb !

Dave

Posted by: David on 6/8/2016 at 9:58 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 8th, Summit!

June 8, 2016

Posted by: Eric Frank, Mike Uchal, Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Uchal and the Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Eric Frank Reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Eric radioed in from High Break while the teams were on their descent and reported the winds of about 40 - 45 mph on the mountain. RMI Guide Casey Grom and Team also checked in from the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz, the team is camped on the Wilson Glacier having a great time training. Congratulations to today's teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good job Michael
Hope to see you out in Port Port

Posted by: Stephanie Ferruzza on 6/9/2016 at 8:27 am

Zorionak!!! Amazing news, congrats to Rafa and to the whole team!!

Posted by: Stephanie on 6/8/2016 at 9:08 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move Into 17K Camp

June 7, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 7, 2016 - 8:30 pm PT We got up this morning to blue skies and a promising forecast. The minute the Big Orange Ball (aka Bob number 2) shined on camp we were outta there, moving uphill. However, we were forced to heavily slow our roll as huge swirling snow plumes were blowing off the 16 ridge and the upper mountain was completely sheeted in wind blown snow. So we picnicked in one of the most beautiful spots in the world. The visibility was almost endless as we could see much of the range in sharp detail. We rested and snacked for over an hour before the winds started looking more and more friendly. Before we knew it, picnicking was over and as we were hopping onto the fixed lines. After the practice a few days before the team zipped to the top and met up with our buried stashes! Then it was on! Climbing the 16 ridge is absolutely breathtaking, and we earned it today. The stiff wind never really let up, but it did nothing to dampen spirits as we looked down 2,500 feet to 14K camp and beyond. Now that the ridge has been walked, and the tents pitched, the team looks to try and recover enough to make a stab at the summit in the morning! Let's just hope this wind blows itself out... RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow congrats guys!! Sounds like such an exciting day! Stay safe on this last push to the top. I can only imagine the gorgeous views from where you are. Im so impressed with you all—what an adventure! Enjoy it!

Ongun I’m sending you all my hugs!Xoxo

Karina

Posted by: Karina on 6/8/2016 at 5:45 am

Summit dogs for everyone!

Posted by: Dad on 6/7/2016 at 9:48 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Enjoy a Productive Day at 11K

June 7, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 7, 2016 - 7:24 pm PT The team continues to do well here at Denali's 11K Camp. We took an early jaunt down to our cache to get reunited with our extra snacks. Our trail breaking yesterday served us well and we cruised out and back with very good style. Once back, we took an "active rest day," building walls to fortify camp and reviewing some mountaineering techniques. If the weather holds, we will try to cache higher on the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to hear you are progressing up the mountain safely! I’m also glad you can hear about Swiftey’s bladder issues from high altitudes! Be safe, we’re excited for you!

Posted by: Isty's walking partner on 6/8/2016 at 10:22 pm

Hi, Jason! Love the photos that are posted. Keep on climbing; stay warm and safe. So glad you are living your dream.

Posted by: Amey T. on 6/8/2016 at 5:45 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Turned Back by Weather

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Elias and the Alpine Team Climb the Lost Marsupial

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Carries to 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rest at High Camp

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Practice Alpine Climbing Transitions

Denali: Upper West Rib Expedition Team Enjoys a Day of Rest

Mt. Rainier: June 8th, Summit!

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move Into 17K Camp

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Enjoy a Productive Day at 11K

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